Skip to main content

Search results

The Lost Ski Areas of Central Oregon

Central Oregon is known nationally for outdoor recreation, and that’s in part because of the amazing skiing around here. However, years before Bachelor Butte became a resort destination and people flocked to Bend for our snow, back when skiing was still considered a new sport in the United States, local clubs and residents tried their hand at skiing some other local spots. These old ski hills may have been lost to time, but a local historian is digging their stories back up.

Skiier jumping at the 1965 Junior Olympics, held on Pilot Butte.
The 1965 Junior Olympics were held on Pilot Butte. Pictured is the ski jump competition, with spectators and fellow competitors watching from the sidelines.

Steven Stenkamp, a former firefighter and Bend city mayor turned local historian, has become an expert on lost ski areas. Through his independent research, he has found four forgotten ski areas near Bend: Overturf Butte, Skyliners McKenzie Pass, Skyliners Tumalo Creek and our very own Pilot Butte. 

“A lot of the history we’re talking about here wasn’t written down, so much of it is largely unknown,” Stenkamp said. “I’m really happy to help share that history and keep it alive.”

To understand how Central Oregon grew as a ski destination requires an understanding of a certain old Bend club. The Skyliners Club, a group of
like-minded individuals who enjoyed outdoor recreation, was formed in 1927. The group’s first goal? Find a permanent and organized area for winter recreation, such as skiing, ice skating and old-school toboggan sledding.

The Bend Skyliners at the original McKenzie Pass ski area jump site in 1930
The Bend Skyliners at the original McKenzie Pass ski area jump site in 1930

“The Skyliners selected a spot seven miles west of the town of Sisters on Forest Service land, next to the original path of the Oregon Skyline Trail,” Stenkamp said. “Construction of a small lodge, a toboggan run and ski jump were completed in time for a December 1928 opening.” The lodge was expanded only a year later to accommodate for the popularity of the site, where skiing competitions regularly saw jumps of over 100 feet.

However, due to a combination of factors such as non-plowed roads, the distance from Bend and the somewhat inconsistent snowfall on the hill, the Skyliners would look for a new spot by 1934, killing the McKenzie Pass ski area by 1935. They moved up to Tumalo Creek, to a fledgling ski area that had first been established with an ice-skating rink in 1933. Over the years, the Skyliners worked to upgrade the hill, adding in lights for night skiing, a lodge, warming hut, a ski jump and even two rope tows to help skiers up the hill. “Before the rope tows, people really had to work to ski,” Stenkamp said. “You really had to want it, to hike those hills over and over.” The hill at Tumalo Creek remained popular until 1958 when Mt. Bachelor officially opened its ski runs.

While the Skyliners Club was doing their thing, other Bend residents were trying to figure out more places to hit the slopes. Overturf Butte began as a toboggan hill in the 1920s, but it wasn’t long before skiers showed up. Eventually, the hill was upgraded with lights for night-time activities, but the toboggan hill proved to be a bit too steep and led to more than a few hospitalizations. Similar to the original Skyliners Hill west of Sisters, Overturf ski area died out due to the opening of the Skyliners Hill near Tumalo Creek.

Skyliners Ski Area with jump
By 1935, the Skyliners had moved their ski area and jump to Skyliner Hill near Tumalo Creek.

In 1962, members of the community expressed their interest in reopening Overturf Butte as a local ski area, but decided to develop Pilot Butte instead when the landowners at Overturf refused. The proposed development included a nearly-too-large ski jump fit with a rope tow, artificial snow and lights that would be open all season long for years to come. However, fundraisers fell short as Mt. Bachelor grew in popularity, and the partial funds were instead used for a temporary ski jump and snow machines on the north side of Pilot Butte, above what is now Pilot Butte Middle School, used only for the 1965 Junior Olympics.

“The first jumper had too much speed and ended up in the sagebrush at the bottom of the hill,” Stenkamp said. “The winner of the jump competition was also the smallest competitor; four-foot eight-inch Jerry Martin from Minneapolis, Minnesota.”

Despite the success of the 1965 Junior Olympics, which had 2,500 people in attendance, Pilot Butte and the other smaller hills just couldn’t compete with Mt. Bachelor. Aside from the new resort eroding the other hills’ popularity, the smaller hills also dealt with more inconsistent snowfall and unplowed roads that made access more difficult. As Mt. Bachelor grew and gained resources, it began to plow roads, offer ski lifts, lodges, classes, competitions and more; all of these amenities were too good to pass up, and other hills were left high and dry, mostly forgotten to history.

That is, until Stenkamp uncovered their past. Thanks to the work of historians like Stenkamp, we can look back and remember the legacy of our community, when people came together for the love of snow. These early hills tell tales of perseverance that directly contributed to the huge popularity of Central Oregon as a winter recreation destination. Any avid skiers, snowboarders and more have these early developments, and the people who pioneered them, to thank for their modern passion. 

Bend on the Big Screen — Old Movies Filmed in Central Oregon
On the set of The Way West starring Kirk Douglas, Robert Mitchum, Richard Widmark, Sally Field, Lola Albright and Jack Elam, 1967.

Midway through 1955, polio vaccines finally made their way to Central Oregon, American military advisors began training troops in “Viet Nam,” the Confederated Tribes of Warm Springs commemorated the 100th anniversary of their treaty with the U.S. Government, and a windstorm just before July 4 swept through Bend and wrecked the Mirror Pond arch, the anchor piece to the iconic Water Pageant.

But no event garnered as much attention from the Bend media that summer as Kirk Douglas and his film The Indian Fighter, which was shot throughout Central Oregon. 

The high desert had been used in movies before—Marlene Dietrich starred in Golden Earrings, a 1947 World War II spy/romance flick which filmed around the Metolius River—but The Indian Fighter put Central Oregon on the map as a location for big, wide-open spaces that were perfect for Westerns, adventure films and even an Animal House-meets-Porky’s-on-the-water comedy in the mid-1980s.

On The Indian Fighter film set with Kirk Douglas, 1955.
On The Indian Fighter film set with Kirk Douglas, 1955.

“You’ve got to remember, back in the 1940s, ‘50s and ‘60s, we’re still super rural,” said Kelly Cannon-Miller, executive director of the Deschutes Historical Museum, which currently has a cinema exhibit that features The Indian Fighter and other movies filmed in Central Oregon. “We have some nice, lovely landscapes where you don’t have to edit out power lines and a lot of other modern things, and you can still get sweeping vistas of a Western frontier. Film producers still had access to wild places pretty easily.” 

Playing a key role in the area’s development as a film destination was the Bend Chamber of Commerce’s decision to fund Fort Benham for $30,000. A 200-foot-by-200-foot replica stockade by Benham Falls, Fort Benham was built specifically for The Indian Fighter but also with the goal of attracting other film productions. 

“United Artists, not the U.S. Army, built the stockade known alternately as Fort Benham and Fort Laramie in 1955,” the Deschutes Historical Museum said in an exhibit devoted to Bend’s cinematic history.

Kirk Douglas and Elsa Martinelli on the set of The Indian Fighter, 1955.
Kirk Douglas and Elsa Martinelli on the set of The Indian Fighter, 1955.

“We’re really at a place where everyone is looking at what else is out there from an economic development standpoint,” added Cannon-Miller, who points out the Shevlin-Hixon Mill had closed five years earlier and Bachelor Butte’s transformation to the Mt. Bachelor ski area was still three years away. “Our shift to tourism is still very much in the planning stages. People wanting to make Bachelor Butte a world-class ski area are realizing you need more hotels, more gas stations, a better road up to the mountain. The area’s really looking to create a new industry following the loss of Shevlin-Hixon and the business community really stepped up. Hollywood took notice that Bend’s open and welcome (for film production), and businesses are willing to support this new emerging industry.”

The films Oregon Passage (1957) and Tonka (1958) both used the fictional fort, as did several episodes of the TV show Have Gun, Will Travel, which aired from 1957 to 1963. (The criminally underrated Day of the Outlaw was shot in the same time period, but didn’t use Fort Benham, and was instead filmed in the snow at Dutchman Flat Sno-Park and Todd Lake.) Unfortunately, a fire in 1962 damaged much of the area around the fort, and it was later demolished as it became a fire danger itself (and a bit of a house of moral disrepute, according to locals).

Despite the loss of Fort Benham, Central Oregon continued to attract major Hollywood pictures. Mara of the Wilderness (1964) (think female Tarzan set in the Cascades); Kirk Douglas and Robert Mitchum in The Way West (1967); the Disney comedy The Apple Dumpling Gang (1974); and John Wayne’s True Grit sequel, Rooster Cogburn (1974) all staged scenes in and around Bend in the 1960s and ‘70s.

While Westerns initially dominated movie productions in the area, the 1980s ushered in an era of unintentionally hilarious, yet really bad films. St. Helens (1981) attempted to depict the 1980 Mount St. Helens eruption—yep, that’s the Pine Tavern doubling as the exterior of Whittaker’s Inn—but instead the volcanic ash looked more like the Nothing from The Neverending Story and the romantic storyline felt like something out of a rejected Northern Exposure episode.

Paramount Studios, Rooster Cogburn shooting in Shevlin Park with “The Duke” John Wayne and Katharine Hepburn, 1974.
Paramount Studios, Rooster Cogburn shooting in Shevlin Park with “The Duke” John Wayne and Katharine Hepburn, 1974.

Just as bad, but not nearly as serious, was Up the Creek, which featured a 36-year-old Tim Matheson, of Animal House fame, as a 12th-year college student who is essentially blackballed into entering the national collegiate whitewater championships by the dean of his school. (Yes, that is the basis for the entire movie.) Heavy on recycled jokes from Animal House and Porky’s (and light on plot), Up the Creek did not earn the adoration of the cinematic world.

“The only thing good about this movie is Chuck, played by Jake the Wonder Dog,” wrote Washington Post film critic Rita Kempley, who called the film a “moist smut movie.” “Chuck has all the best scenes. Still, that brave little pooch is Up the Creek without a dog paddle.”

Since Matheson guided fictional Lepetomane University to immortal whitewater rafting fame on the Deschutes, Central Oregon has seen Chance, Shadow and Sassy try to make their way home in Homeward Bound: The Incredible Journey (1993); Kevin Costner and Tom Petty trek through Smith Rock in The Postman (1997); Steve Zahn awkwardly pursues Jennifer Aniston in Madras in Management (2008); and Reese Witherspoon finds herself out of water in the Badlands east of Bend, which was transformed into the Mojave Desert for Wild (2014).

Stay tuned, as more films will surely make use of the beautiful and diverse Central Oregon landscape in the future.

The Rise and Fall of the Bend Water Pageant

In 1932, a group of business owners were sitting around a table in a local coffee shop in Bend. Their community, like all others in the nation at the time, was struggling to survive in the Great Depression. Led by the owner of Bend’s Capitol Theatre, Byron “Dutch” Stover, the group was looking for new ways to get people to visit town. Bend remained a popular tourist destination, but the economic collapse of the nation meant that the town needed more help than ever.

Stover was regularly coming up with ideas surrounding performing arts and was a big early supporter of local pageants. He settled on the idea of a water carnival, originally proposed in order to incorporate the nearby Mirror Pond into the town’s Fourth of July festivities. This water carnival would be similar to a regular parade of floats, except it would take place on the Deschutes River. It would also crown a pageant queen every year, who was usually a local teen.

On July 4, 1933, the first Bend Water Pageant took place. Weeks before the event, the town was hard at work getting ready. The float near the modern day and aptly named Pageant Park was not a task to prepare for overnight. The first year, the pageant creators envisioned a rainbow of water that the floats could pass under when they came through Mirror Pond. This proved to be too complicated, so pageant officials opted to create a huge wooden arch every year after the first pageant that floats could pass under, fit with colorful lights to resemble a rainbow.

Swan floats at Bend's water pageant, 1939

In 1934, the arch was one of the tallest structures in Bend. The fact that this relatively big construction project was devoted to a completely temporary structure speaks to how significant the Bend Water Pageant was to the town.

“I don’t think anybody had really caught on to this big vision that he [Stover] had for the water pageant,” said Kelly Cannon-Miller, executive director of the Deschutes Historical Society in a short film about the Bend Water Pageant called Let There Be Light.

The pageant became an opportunity for the Bend community to forget their woes. For one night, while the entire nation celebrated freedom and independence, people in Bend could stop by Mirror Pond and relax as they watched the colorful floats of swans and fairy tale figures pass under the arch; each color twinkling across the dark water to create a spectacle of light that dazzled locals and tourists alike.

"Maid of Athens," Bend Water Pageant, 1937
“Maid of Athens,” Bend Water Pageant, 1937

“One of the things I love the most about this story is that for all those years, it was a chance for people to just be creative and build these beautiful things together. At a certain level, it was a giant group art project. Everyone brought their skills to bring this project to fruition,” Cannon-Miller said.

The pageant saw its peak popularity in the 1940s, when thousands of people would flock to town to see it. By the 1950s, the event had gotten almost out of hand. “Due to how many people were showing up, it would sometimes take six weeks to get Drake Park clean again,” Cannon-Miller said. By the early 1960s, the pageant had grown to such a size that it took a team of 200 volunteers two entire months of work, just to be ready in time for the Fourth of July. “The clean up combined with the massive effort it took to create the pageant created its decline,” Cannon-Miller said.

Real swans at the Bend Water Pageant, 1954
The real swans of Drake Park gather at the riverbank to comtemplate their supersized, and temporary, Water Pageant swan friends, 1954.

America had changed, and Bend with it. The strife from the Great Depression had passed and a generation had come and gone. The pageant, like many old traditions and institutions in the 1960s, was viewed as outdated and ultimately unnecessary.

In 1965, when the last float had left Mirror Pond, the final pageant came to an end. The history of the pageant is preserved around town in parks and archives, where visitors can learn about a nearly forgotten history and celebrate the legacy left behind; one of collaboration, creativity and community.

 

 

0
    Your Cart
    Your cart is emptyReturn to Shop