Look north from the junction of highways 216 and 197 just west of Maupin and see Mt. Hood in the distance. Notice how the pavement slightly bends to the south and disappears as it descends into town. Now glide along the road’s wide shoulder following the Sherar’s Falls Scenic Bikeway, picking up speed as you flow into town and descend toward the Deschutes River.
Of the state’s 17 official scenic bikeways, six are in Central Oregon. There’s the challenging McKenzie Pass Scenic Bikeway across the Cascade Range and the descriptively titled Sisters-to-Smith Rock Scenic Bikeway. Another, the Twin Bridges Scenic Bikeway, originates at Mirror Pond in Bend, visits Tumalo, then loops north before returning to town.
Three other nearby routes follow less-explored roads. Each one is well under 40 miles and offers only a few hills. Experienced road cyclists and those on e-bikes may consider these rides to be easy. Those with less time pedaling may agree with these routes’ official ratings: moderate. But all will benefit by slowing to appreciate the scenery, geology and history found along the way.
Crooked River Canyon Scenic Bikeway
Crooked River Canyon Scenic Bikeway
The Crooked River canyon, south of Prineville, is a dream destination for rockhounds searching for agate, jasper, obsidian, opal and Oregon’s prized find—thundereggs. It should be no surprise to cyclists when they see these dedicated hunters scouring the river banks as they pedal south on Oregon Route 27, the Crooked River Highway, toward Bowman Dam and Prineville Reservoir. The rocks, remnants of the region’s long volcanic history, are so plentiful that Crook County is considered to be among the best rock-hunting locations in the country. The thunderegg, a geode that reveals colorful, crystalline silica when cracked open, has been the Oregon state rock since 1965.
The ride from Prineville’s southern edge follows the river for 18 miles as it twists through the canyon on an easy, gradual climb until ending at Big Bend Campground, a half-mile shy of the reservoir. There are several opportunities to stop for pictures as the river snakes between the high canyon walls. Shade is limited until reaching the campground, so it’s important to carry adequate food and water–and liberally apply sunscreen. While it’s 18 miles to the end of the ride for those who planned to have a vehicle waiting at the end, it’s extended to 36 miles with a return to Prineville.
► Start and Finish: Prineville ► Distance: 18 miles one way, or a 36-mile loop ► Elevation Gain: 728 feet
Sherar’s Falls Scenic Bikeway
This is one bike ride, available in three parts. First, there’s a segment through Maupin, with an exploration of Wasco County farmlands and a peaceful pedal along the Deschutes River. How the day’s experience unfolds next is determined by an answer to the question: Do you want to complete the hard work early and enjoy the rest of the day, or split the uphill effort into two smaller sections? Riders may choose a steep climb from the river for six miles up slow-moving Highway 197 through Maupin before the road finally levels out. Or, another option includes a steep uphill going up and then across the countryside, passing through Tygh Valley and returning to town for several miles along a downhill stretch.
There are two key spots to take note of on this bikeway. One is Maupin, a community worthy of a rest stop, a cold drink and a look around. The other is Sherar’s Falls, a twist in the road and a river crossing steeped in history. The Sherar’s Bridge Hotel, stagecoach stop and toll bridge are long gone; the hotel burned down more than 80 years ago. The waterfalls, while modest in size, remain a traditional fishing spot for Native peoples using wooden scaffolds and dipnets as their ancestors have for thousands of years.
► Start and Finish: Maupin ► Distance: 33 miles round trip ► Elevation Gain: 1,727 feet
Madras Mountain Views Scenic Bikeway
Start this experience on a gravel path veering off of SW Mountain View Drive in downtown Madras. The road’s rocks are too deep to continue pedaling with narrow road-bike tires, so you’ll need to walk about 50 yards to a parking lot and look for a stone guardrail. Lean forward and stare down into the aquamarine waters of Lake Billy Chinook. This ride is named for its views of the distant Cascade Range, but it’s hard to take your eyes off the lake, which is actually a reservoir. It collects water from the Deschutes, Metolius and Crooked rivers before allowing a controlled stream to flow north as the Deschutes River. To the west are the mountains—Jefferson, Bachelor and Washington, plus the Three Sisters and more—if you remember to look up.
The Madras Mountain Views Scenic Bikeway is a comfortable ride from Sahalee Park in Madras south across open farmland and through the towns of Metolius and Culver before angling toward the lake. There’s one hill to climb on the way back and then the route glides for seven miles back down to Madras.
► Start and Finish: Downtown Madras ► Distance: 29 miles ► Elevation Gain: 1,175 feet
Cycling Safety and News: These routes follow public roads and include vehicle traffic. Wear a bicycle helmet and brightly colored clothes. Use a flashing tail light and obey traffic laws. Also note: Oregon Highway 242, part of the McKenzie Pass Scenic Bikeway, is closed for repaving and roadside improvements from U.S. 20 in Sisters to the summit at Dee Wright Observatory. Roadwork is expected to be completed by the McKenzie Highway’s traditional June opening which is June 17 this year. An Oregon Department of Transportation spokesperson emphasizes that the road is not safe for bicycling until then and urges cyclists to respect the closed road gates.
Tracey Seslen and her two children slowly walk along the weathered boardwalk outside the Sage Saloon. They study a placard affixed to the building that explains part of this city’s colorful history, yet they can’t escape the sound of the Beastie Boys booming from speakers a block away.
This is the paradox of Shaniko, Oregon. The historically recognized ghost town is anything but silent. The thumping music blasts from its very own radio station—KDFM, 99.9. With a reach of just five miles in any direction from the center of town, it plays an eclectic mix of ‘90s hip hop to contemporary country music and ‘70s greatest hits, and the sound overflows through the streets. In October, a ragtime music festival will bring in two days of live music that harkens back more than 100 years to the town’s heyday. Shaniko is a ghost town alive with music, accompanied by the revival of a long-dormant hotel in its center.
Wander downtown for history and pick up lunch, or ice cream, in the hotel’s cafe. | Photo Christian Heeb
From Wool Capital of the World to Official Ghost Town
Shaniko, 80 miles north of Bend on Highway 97, once had its claim to fame. It was considered the wool capital of the world from 1901 to 1911, when Oregon’s largest wool warehouse moved more than four million pounds a year on the Columbia Southern Railway. Business was so strong in 1901 that the railroad built and operated accommodations in what is now simply known as the Shaniko Hotel.
The demise of the railroad began in 1911 when a new line bypassed the town for Bend. Passenger service died in the early 1930s, and all operations ceased by 1966. Times were so stark that the Oregon Centennial Commission officially designated Shaniko a ghost town in 1959.
Capturing the story of Shaniko’s highs and lows falls to Debra Holbrook and the Shaniko Preservation Guild, keeper of the historical record. It dates back to 1879 and the first postmaster, August Scherneckau, whose phonetically-pronounced name became “Shaniko.” While there have been hard times, Holbrook said things are looking up. Today, she sits on a bench outside the hotel to recount the city’s story. She points to different buildings and riffs on each historical chronology. Many of the small, wood-framed units have been moved from land plot to land plot over the decades. Shaniko has survived three major fires, the collapse of its wool industry and the departure of the railroad.
But there are signs that Shaniko is less of a ghost town these days. A reliable flow of recreational vehicles detour from the highway for a slow, three-block drive on 4th and E streets, roads once part of old Highway 97 before the state realigned the roadway. Some travelers, such as the Seslen family, explore old buildings. Others stop at Seven Directions cafe for lunch or ice cream. “I’m used to seeing places that are reconstructed for tourists’ eyes.” Seslen said. “There’s much greater authenticity here.”
The Shaniko Hotel Welcomes Visitors Again
Across the street, the long-vacant Shaniko Hotel, built in 1902, has undergone renovations and now welcomes guests after sitting dormant for 15 years. South Wasco Fire & Rescue recently leased it from Portland-based R.B. Pamplin Corporation then made much-needed renovations and reopened the doors August 1. Net proceeds from the hotel go to the local fire department.
Travelers enter the front lobby of what was originally called the Columbia Southern Hotel and step up to the historic front desk. After checking in, they climb the original staircase to rooms decorated in an early 1900s motif. Once there were 44 rooms in this hotel; currently, 18 rooms have been renovated. There are no TVs but to meet guests’ expectations, there is Wi-Fi. Work on other spaces, including a dining room remodel, continues. Full completion is still years away.
An aged piano harkens to times when music played in many of the city saloons | Photo Ben Eastman
Music Festival in the Desert
It may not be Coachella, but the 21st annual Shaniko Ragtime and Vintage Music Festival, October 6-8, honors the ragtime genre that challenged the musical norms of its time, much like the Beastie Boys did in the ‘80s. The festival tradition was born in 2001 when piano tuner Keith Taylor came to work on the old Columbia Southern Hotel piano, Holbrook said. Once the keyboard sounded the right notes, Taylor gave an impromptu ragtime music performance past midnight and the idea for a music festival was born. “That honky-tonk sound used to waft in the air from every place in town, in every saloon,” Holbrook said. Today, chords from a Beastie Boys song echo down the street. While Shaniko qualifies as a ghost town, because it’s still a shadow of its former self, today the musical notes sound like the fight for the right to revive.
