We arrived in the waning sunlight of an early spring day, pulling up in front of a classic historic schoolhouse perched on a steep hillside overlooking the Columbia River Gorge. My husband and I had just driven across the river from Hood River, where we’d stopped for a beer at pFriem Family Brewers and to watch the windsurfers at play in the chilly March waters. The creaky double doors of the former schoolhouse—recently transformed into the Society Hotel Bingen—welcomed us in to a warm and inviting library and common room, outfitted with old books and comfortable couches, just as the train rolled past outside along the waterfront, letting forth its old-timey whistle as if on cue.
When the founders of The Society Hotel, located in a renovated historic building in Portland’s Chinatown, went looking for a second location, they were in search of more than a pretty place. “We were looking for a story—a place with a history that a design could latch on to, and not just a destination that would be all new,” explained co-owner Matt Siegel, as he gave us a tour of the second Society Hotel, which opened in spring of 2019.
The team found the story they were looking for in Bingen, Washington—a small, formerly industrial town just over the river from Hood River, Oregon. There sat an 80-year-old schoolhouse, built by the Civilian Conservation Corps and still boasting great charms and solid bones. The 7500-square-foot building served as the school for Bingen and White Salmon, Washington, from 1938 until the 1970s. In the 1980s, it became a hostel and inn to serve the burgeoning windsurfer crowds who had begun to descend on the area for the famous winds of the Columbia Gorge.
The Society team acquired the property and got to work. The schoolhouse and equally historic gym were restored; adjacent, a brand-new structure of adjoining cabins and a state-of-the-art luxury spa were built. “We got to restore and build new,” said Seigel, adding that there were “elements of cuteness” that the team wanted to keep—blackboards set into walls, antique lockers for belongings and wooden bleachers in the gym. Alongside every charming historical element was placed a modern touch.
The result is a campus of amenities both old and new, a meandering maze of spaces to explore and relax in, both indoors and out, over a weekend stay. The lobby doubling as a living room boasts a cozy fireplace, wall art made into a guide to local adventures, crafted cocktails and fresh-made pastries and meals, and a vast collection of classic books acquired from a former college. Art accents throughout the property are old classroom posters, touting the tenets of the ABCs to the solar system. The gym is a classic open space perfect for weddings, gatherings, or shooting a few hoops. The sanctuary is an aesthetically amazing subterranean dome, a circular architectural feat built partly underground with carefully designed acoustics and a soft bamboo floor, where events from yoga classes to dance parties take place. The lodgings include, on the high end, individual cabins with full kitchens, views of the Columbia River and picnic tables and hammocks outside. On the affordable end, guests book a bed in the most luxurious bunk room they’ve ever laid eyes on, complete with bunks outfitted with charging stations for electronics, cubbies for personal belongings, reading lights and thick privacy curtains—all for under $50 a night.
The Spa at Society Hotel at Bingen
It is the spa at the heart of the Society Hotel at Bingen that draws the visitor in again and again, wedging itself into memory until the next visit. A beautiful structure of wood and glass sits in the center of the cabin ring, built around an indoor saltwater soaking pool, an outdoor hot pool, a cold plunge pool and a cedar sauna.
Seigel had insisted that I try the cold plunge, no matter how unappealing an experience it might seem; he even suggested that I might find it weirdly addictive. Kept at a chilly 54 degrees, the cold plunge is said to promote health and well-being; the idea being that when submerged in cold, the blood pours to the inner organs, resulting in an invigorating, stimulating sensation throughout the body. [Read writer Katryna Vecella’s own experience with cold/hot treatment in our Wellness story on page 55].
In the interest of scientific inquiry and journalistic integrity, I gave it a whirl. The shock of submerging brought to mind memories of being the kid brave enough to dive into an alpine lake in late spring; the seconds ticked by ever-so-slowly as the cold sunk in and I tried to count to ten; and then came my ever-so-quick return to open air and ultra-speedy journey to the sauna, where the dry heat and cedar scents soothed and warmed me to the bone. After the sauna, I took a soak in the outdoor heated pool, where the fresh air of the Columbia Gorge smelled of early spring and the sun was setting downriver.
I had to admit that I felt amazing. So, the next morning, I did it all over again.
About White Salmon, Washington
White Salmon, Washington is a mile uphill from Bingen and offers a majority of the services that support the Society Hotel Bingen. Grab a seat on the upper outdoor deck at Everybody’s Brewing for a view of Mount Hood and a pint. Catch live music on Mondays. North Shore Café is the spot for tasty breakfasts and a juice bar that pulls from plenty of local produce. The Book Peddler is piled to the ceiling with the titles you seek, both classic and new. The White Salmon River is popular with white water kayakers, and the White Salmon River Valley is dotted with wineries. Take a scenic drive and sip on local syrah and grenache.
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