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Beef Tartare: 900 Wall

Beef Tartare, 900 Wall, photo by Jon Tapper
Beef Tartare, 900 Wall, photo by Jon Tapper
Photo by Jon Tapper

After a longer-than-expected forced closure due to a manufacturer’s defect in plumbing, 900 Wall has reopened with a newly redesigned interior. “A three-week project turned into a six-month project,” said executive chef Cliff Eslinger. Luckily, insurance allowed them to continue paying their staff, most of whom have stayed on for the reopening.

While the nearly 100-year-old building provides historical charm, it was difficult to keep warm on cold nights and was somewhat dim and noisy, due to the brick walls and exposed wood. Those troubles have been erased thanks to radiant floor heating, new lighting and sound dampening. “We’ve made a lot of changes in the infrastructure that people may not see, but will have a huge impact,” explained Eslinger.

While patrons will notice an improved dining experience, the menu of this modern American restaurant in the heart of downtown Bend has remained mostly unchanged. “We’ve always done a fairly seasonal and locally-driven menu,” said Eslinger. “We’re reopening right as the produce season is starting, so we’ll have a lot of produce, and we’re continuing to offer locally-sourced meat. We source all wild fish (nothing farmed), and the beef is as local as possible.”

To pull off a dish like beef tartare ($14), the quality of the ingredients must be superb. 900 Wall has always sourced their meat from Imperial Stock Ranch in Shaniko. The melt-in-your-mouth goodness comes from finely hand-chopped, grass-fed, antibiotic-free, and hormone-free tenderloin mixed with herbs, Dijon mustard, and shallots—served alongside a horseradish gruyere custard, which Eslinger likens to a savory pot de crème. “You smear a little bit of the custard on a piece of crostini and pile the chopped beef on top,” he said. “Ours is a little different than the classic preparation, where the beef is mixed with the egg yolk. We have the beef and herbs on one side of the plate and the custard is set aside, so you build each bite to your liking.” –Vanessa Salvia   

  900 Wall  | 900 NW Wall Street, Bend  | 541.323.6295

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