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Food + Drink
Written by Donna Britt
Photos by
Tambi Lane
Trattoria Sbandati Celebrates Family and Life
Just as a good book can take a reader to another place and time, a fabulous meal can transport a diner to another world. Enter Trattoria Sbandati of Bend where guests are transported to the world of peace, love and porchetta.
“I think of my restaurant as an act of love. I can say that we still passionately and stubbornly love what we do,” Chef Juri Sbandati said of his restaurant tucked into an unassuming small business strip on Bend’s west side. “It is a way to celebrate life, family and, of course, the motherland Italia.”
Sbandati’s, as locals refer to the eatery, has been welcoming guests and treating them like family since 2009. That’s when Sbandati opened the doors, uplifting the local culinary scene with foods inspired by his native Tuscany. Sbandati’s cuisine tells a story, a tale of another land–the homeland of Sbandati–the capital of Italy’s Tuscany region and birthplace of the Renaissance–Firenze, also known as Florence. The restaurant’s emblem is the symbol of Firenze, the Florentine red iris.
Dining at Sbandati’s is a joyful trip to the Old Country where artisanship is at the heart of the culture, where creating food with two hands in the pursuit of beauty is still honored and revered. The chef’s craft shines through in his menu, and the food itself comforts and nourishes; simple ingredients meld together in perfection for bites that satisfy the soul. “The core of our menu is a tribute to my family origins. And we have curated an all Italian wine list,” Sbandati said.
On the Menu at Trattoria Sbandati
In classic Italian style, the trattoria’s menu begins with antipasti. Those starters naturally include bruschetta, cured meats and the piatto di formaggi misti which is a selection of imported Denominazione d’Origine Protetta Italian cheeses served with organic Italian fig jam, walnuts, pine cone syrup, sliced pears and aged balsamic from Modena. The combination is simple perfection and just enough to stimulate the appetite for more.
The primi (first course) selections range from soups of the day to pastas. The trattoria regularly has seven different kinds of handmade pasta on the menu, made only with 100% Italian flour and Sicilian sea salt. One of the customer favorites, according to Sbandati, is the pasta dedicated to his wife, the Rebecca Special. The handmade saffron pasta is tossed in a sauce of olive oil, garlic, black olives, oil-soaked sundried tomatoes, cayenne pepper and soft burrata.There’s also the penne pasta tossed in spicy tomato sauce, a hand-cut spaghetti and pappardelle alla Chiantigana. This house made pappardelle is served with a traditional sauce from the Chianti region made with Italian sausage, fennel, tomato, leeks and Chianti wine topped with Parmigiano Reggiano.
Sumptuous secondi courses (main courses) include the restaurant’s well-known polpette, a must-have featuring chef’s family recipe of tender ground beef meatballs cooked and served in tomato sauce with melted mozzarella on top and a delicious side of sauteed spinach. Tuscany is also famous for its beef. The seasonal special Tagliata di Lombatello con Cavolo Verzotto e Acciuga, hanger steak with sauteed savoy cabbage, does not disappoint. Not only are the dishes beautifully plated, the flavors are amazing, transporting the eater with every bite to a place of love and connection.
The final dessert course or dolci, must not be skipped but rather savored and lingered over. The tiramisu, based on a Sbandati family recipe, is made with mascarpone cream, ladyfingers dipped in coffee and a chocolate finish. A sweet cream panna cotta with fresh berry sauce also graces the dolci menu,as well as a bongo, the Florentine version of a profiterole—an éclair stuffed with cream and topped with melted dark chocolate and powdered sugar. Buon appetito!
