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Bend’s Street Dog Hero Fights Dog Overpopulation One Pup At A Time
Marianne Cox does outreach for a spay and neuter clinic in Pescadero, Mexico | photo Marianne Cox

When Marianne Cox first traveled to Mexico in 2002, she was shocked to find dogs littering the streets. She vowed to someday rescue a street dog. Instead, she’s saved thousands.

In 2017, despite having no experience running a nonprofit, Cox founded Street Dog Hero, a Bend-based organization that rescues dogs from around the world and flies them to families throughout the Pacific Northwest. Cox’s operations sprouted in Sayulita, Mexico, where she first saved “Trece,” a Vizsla mix that she found a home for within three days. Now, Cox’s rescue dogs hail everywhere from meat farms in South Korea to overcrowded shelters in Texas. “My heart is with the dogs that no other rescues want,” said Cox, “because I think they deserve a home, too.”

Canelo, a tan rescue pup
Canelo found his forever home in Bend, Oregon after being rescued from La Paz, Mexico | photo Teresa Ristow

Although Cox wishes she could save every street dog, rescuing and flying them across the world is no easy task. Each pup is rescued by one of Cox’s partner organizations, which work on the ground in Mexico, India, South Korea, China, Puerto Rico, Albania and the Virgin Islands. Then, volunteers escort the dogs through the airport and fly them back to either Redmond, Seattle or Portland, where their foster or adoptive families await. 

The COVID-19 pandemic threw a wrench in this well-coordinated travel jigsaw. With most international borders closed, the Street Dog
Hero team moved their operations closer to home. Cox’s rescue partners and volunteers drove across the Mexican border three times a week and returned with cars jam-packed with dogs. They also began clearing out shelters domestically, in Oregon, California and Texas, and the quarantine pet-craze only further fueled their adoption rates. In 2019, the organization rescued 450 dogs, and in 2020, they saved over 600.

Cox said, “COVID made us help so many more dogs, and that’s why I have so much grey hair right now,” she said and laughed. Like most nonprofit founders, Cox is overworked, yet she said, “it’s all worth it in the end.” Street Dog Hero—which has a six-person team in Bend—relies on fundraising dollars and adoption fees to fund operations. Cox also can tap 10 Barrel Brewing for raffle prizes and event facilities, because her husband is a co-founder of the company. “My husband says I’ll kill the family (while driving) to save a chipmunk running across the road,” said Cox, who is known for being an animal lover.

Once she started rescuing dogs, Cox quickly realized how many dogs she couldn’t save. She pivoted to also combat the root problem of dog overpopulation, holding pop-up spay and neuter clinics several times a year in Mexico. During the pandemic, she instead launched clinics across rural Oregon, in LaPine and Christmas Valley, but she looks forward to the time when the organization can expand these efforts worldwide.

Cox’s long-term goal is for Street Dog Hero to no longer be needed because the organization has educated communities on how to address dog overpopulation. Until then, Cox and her team will find homes for one dog at a time.

Learn more at streetdoghero.org.

 

Uniting the Bouldering Community is a Tough Climb
Maitreya Sriram climbs “Bulletproof,” a V5 at Widgi Boulders. Courtesy of Central Oregon Bouldering.

Author Jason Chinchen aims to unify the Central Oregon bouldering community with his new guidebook and the High Desert Climbers Alliance.

Bouldering is a style of climbing on smaller rock formations and uses “crash pads” as protection instead of ropes or harnesses. It started out as a means to warm-up and practice for rope climbing. Over time, however, with the spread of bouldering gyms, competitions and media coverage, it has evolved into its own subcategory of climbing. While climbers have been bouldering in Central Oregon for decades, up until last year, information about Central Oregon’s many bouldering spots spread through word of mouth from climber to climber.

Last fall, Jason Chinchen, a man of many trades including woodworking and graphic design, authored and designed Central Oregon Bouldering, the first guidebook for Bend’s bouldering areas. The book has more than 1,200 climbing routes or “problems” at ten areas near the Deschutes River Trail and off Cascade Lakes Scenic Byway.

Chinchen has lived in Bend intermittently since the ’90s, originally moving to Central Oregon to climb at Smith Rock. Over the years, he has also lived in Bishop, California, the epicenter for bouldering in the United States. There, the climbing community rallies around bouldering and has a developed guidebook with more than 2,300 routes. Upon returning to Bend, Chinchen found the outdoor bouldering community here underdeveloped.

“When I came back here, the climbing community was really focused around the climbing gym and around Smith Rock, and there were very few people bouldering,” said Chinchen. “I tried to find people to go out and climb with me, but I had a really hard time.”

When word got out about the book being published, there was some pushback. Local climbers argued that the book would bring more traffic, increasing risk of misuse and expose spots that had formerly been well-kept secrets. Alan Watts, the developer of many Smith Rock routes and the author of the Smith Rock climbing guidebook, explained this dilemma in the foreword of Chinchen’s book.

“Bouldering in Central Oregon has long been shrouded in mystery — a closely held secret protected by tight-lipped locals,” said Watts. “Guidebooks are a paradox. On the one hand there’s little question they bring far more people into bouldering areas once enjoyed by a privileged few. But on the other hand, the influx of people sparks development and brings fresh blood and energy to scenes that might otherwise grow stagnant.”

Mike Rougeux, the Climbing Program Director at Bend Endurance Academy (BEA), argued that the book continues the tradition of passing information down between climbing groups but in a different format.

“Either someone was going to write a guidebook for the bouldering in Bend and it would be someone that wasn’t from Bend or someone who was a part of the climbing community,” said Rougeux. “I think it was better that it was someone who was part of the community.”

Rougeux said that the book has solidified and legitimized bouldering in Central Oregon and established boulderers as actual user groups. These bouldering areas have seen more traffic recently, not just because of the book but because of the growth of Bend. The book includes ten areas, so instead of climbers being concentrated at a few of the more well-known spots, it actually spreads them out.

After publishing his book, Chinchen helped establish the High Desert Climbers Alliance (HDCA), a nonprofit dedicated to working with land managers to protect these areas and mitigating any problems caused by increased traffic. Newly-formed, HDCA has taken on the responsibility of protecting all rope climbing and bouldering in Central Oregon aside from Smith Rock, which has its own organization.

HDCA is now working with the Forest Service and has coordinated trail work plans at Meadow Camp, an area along the river with both rope climbing and bouldering. Rougeux is one of HDCA’s four officers, in addition to working with BEA. He is currently working with Central Oregon Trail Alliance (COTA) on the mountain bike trail being rerouted through the Widgi Boulders, near the Widgi Creek Golf Club.

“The biggest thing for us right now is putting the pieces in place for the continued growth of the sport and the growth of Bend,” said Rougeux. “We are trying to make sure climbers are represented in the community.”

Both the book and HDCA were created to bridge divides in the bouldering community.

“When you have a community that’s unified, we can get things done,” said Chinchen. “I think that my part has been done to give a central view and something for the community to gather around.”

Chinchen distributed the book throughout the Pacific Northwest in local outdoors shop and climbing gyms. It can be purchased in Central Oregon at Bend Rock Gym, Mountain Supply, Dudley’s Bookshop Cafe and Redpoint Climbers Supply.


Read more Central Oregon CLIMBING articles here.

 

3 Local Climbers Share Their Favorite Spots to Boulder
Photo of Trevor Roosen climbing “Hieroglyphs,” a V4 near the Depot, courtesy of Central Oregon Bouldering

Grab your climbing shoes and chalk bag and head out to these locals’ favorite bouldering spots in Bend. Looking to skip the Smith Rock State Park summer heat and crowds or squeeze in an evening climbing session after work? There are boulders scattered across Central Oregon begging to be climbed and, with the recent publication of Central Oregon Bouldering, these spots are more accessible than ever. Check out these local climbers’ picks for the best areas to boulder around Bend.

Bouldering Term Cheat Sheet

Bouldering: A style of climbing utilizing “crash pads” rather than ropes or harnesses on relatively small rock formations.
Approach: The hike or walk to get to a climbing area.
Problems: Bouldering routes or projects
Traverse: Climbing left or right instead of straight up, oftentimes lower to the ground
V0-V13: The rating system used in the bouldering, with a V0 being the easiest and V13 being the hardest.

Trevor Roosen | Route Setter at Bend Rock Gym

“I’d say one of my favorite spots in town is ‘Mile Marker 5’ up Skyliners Road. I like that spot because it is always in the shade and perfect for hot summer days. There is a small concentration of problems, but they are all very high quality. There is a wide range of difficulties and most problems have nice, flat landings.

Tick Ranch has some cool boulders in a pretty rad setting next to Tumalo Creek. The boulders are big chunks that have fallen off of the big cliff band above. The cliff above is about thirty-feet- to forty-feet-tall and has some rad four- and five-bolt-long sport routes. It sits in the sun for most of the day, so it can be very warm in the summer.

The Depot is a cliff line right on the Deschutes in town. It gets shade almost all day and really cool air because of the close proximity to the river. Most of the boulders here are really tall, like fifteen feet. Fun fact, the Depot has one of Oregon’s hardest problems, a V11 called ‘The Goblin.’”

Mile Marker 5: Dirt parking lot on the left side of Skyliners Road at the 5 mile marker, 5-minute approach
Tick Ranch: Off Skyliners Road along Tumalo Creek, open seasonally from March 1 to December 1, up to 15-minute approach
The Depot: Off the Deschutes River Trail on river right, 15- to 25-minute approach from Farewell Bend Park

Mike Rougeux | Climbing Program Director at Bend Endurance Academy

“Mount Bachelor Village boulders are really good for newer climbers because there’s a super long traverse. There’s some stuff that’s a little bit lower, so you don’t have to feel like you’re committing to hard moves up high. It’s right on the river, so you can’t really beat the scenery.

Photo of Mike Rougeux courtesy of Central Oregon Bouldering.

The Widgi Boulders are great. There’s a lot of hard stuff there, but there are some easier climbs there that are getting more traffic now because of the Central Oregon Bouldering book. People used to go out there and be like ‘There are only these climbs with chalk on them and they are hard’ because that’s what all the people were climbing. Now there are people who are newer to climbing and they are going out there and revisiting some of the older V1s and V0s. There’s great boulders out there with decent landings.”

Mount Bachelor Village Boulders: Off the Deschutes River Trail on river left, 15- to 25-minute approach from Farewell Bend Park
The Widgi Boulders: Turn at the dirt road across the Cascades Lakes Scenic Byway from Widgi Creek Golf Course, park at end of road next to boulders

Claire Christensen | Boulderer in Central Oregon

“I first started climbing last summer out at Meadow Camp on ropes but quickly bought a crash pad so I could go out solo. I was immediately hooked on bouldering at Meadow Camp because of how beautiful and serene it is. It’s so rad to be able to listen to the river while I’m climbing but also being far enough off trail that it feels like you have the whole forest to yourself.

The problems start at the parking lot and stretch all the way down the cliff line for a couple miles. The rock is volcanic, so it can be a little hard on the fingers sometimes, but offers cool finger pockets, crimps and cracks. There are lots of problems that are short and safe and also a lot of high ballers for those who are a little braver.”

Meadow Camp: Park at Meadow Camp Day Use Area, $5 Day Pass or NW Forest Pass required, 2- to 20-minute approach depending on what boulders you choose.


Read more Central Oregon CLIMBING articles here.

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