Did you know that we have world-class rock climbing right in our backyard? People from all over the globe come to Central Oregon to spend a few days climbing at Smith Rock State Park.
Smith Rock’s 641 acres are just outside Terrebonne and roughly 30 minutes north of Bend. Other than rock climbing, Smith Rock offers some of the best hiking in Central Oregon. Explore the towering pines along the Crooked River or take in spectacular views from the top of the craggy rock faces.
If you are so bold as to strap on a harness and clip yourself to a 10mm climbing rope, Smith Rock is a beautiful place to climb. But what if you are new to climbing? Is Smith Rock the place you should start?
And what about climbing gear? What do you need to start rock climbing? Does it make sense to rent equipment or buy? Is there a community of rock climbers that you can join?
Rock climbing can be an incredibly daunting activity to get into. Just knowing where to start can be overwhelming. So, we decided to go straight to the experts.
We were fortunate enough to get in touch with Tim Han, Director of Operations at Bend Rock Gym. Bend Rock Gym has roughly 31,000 square feet of indoor climbing and training between three locations. They cover all climbing disciplines, from 15-foot bouldering walls to 50-foot for sport climbing.
And if you are wondering what “boulding” and “sport climbing” means, Han explained all that too.
Rock Climbing Gear
Knowing what equipment you need for rock climbing is typically the first big hurdle to enter the sport. And, as Han told us, what you need can depend on the climbing you plan to do.
“When it comes to gear, it really depends on which climbing discipline you are interested in,” Han said. “Either sport climbing or bouldering.” Bouldering is on, well, boulders where the route isn’t very high and doesn’t require ropes. Sport climbing, which has different variations, is climbing much taller routes with ropes. [Learn more about bouldering in Central Oregon here.]
While the two types of climbing seem similar, they have more differences than you might guess. “Both sports require different techniques, different training routines, different muscle group usage, different gear sets, and the list goes on and on,” Han explained.
“For the most part, you will need climbing shoes for either discipline,” Han told us. “When you get into sport climbing, having a harness is necessary.”
Regarding bouldering, shoes and a crashpad, the mat climbers place under themselves in case of a fall, are pretty much all that is needed. With sport climbing, other than a harness, Han recommended a belay device and climbing rope when you reach the point where you are ready to lead or top rope climb.
Luckily, Bend Rock Gym rents all of this equipment except ropes for lead climbing. If that is your jam, you need to bring your own. Han recommends renting initially. “I would recommend renting if you are just trying it out or new to it, and once you are hooked, it’s always nice to have your own gear for potentially climbing outdoors.”
This is an important distinction to make. If you rent from Bend Rock Gym, the equipment is to be used at Bend Rock Gym. If you want to get gear to climb outside, like at Smith Rock, you’ll have to buy it.
Fortunately, Bend Rock Gym rents and sells rock climbing equipment. That climbing rope you can’t rent for lead climbing—you can buy it from them.
Mountain Supply is another local shop where you can purchase climbing gear from local experts, as well as Redpoint Climbers Supply. Redpoint is just minutes away from Smith Rock State Park. Stop in on your way.
Where to Rock Climb? And What About Community?
With the majesty of Smith Rock State Park just a few steps from our doors, it can be tempting to begin our rock climbing journeys there. Han hinted that starting indoors is usually a better option.
“Starting indoors is always an easier transition into climbing,” Hans said. “You get a feel for rock climbing in a safer and more controlled environment.”
If you’re starting indoors, Han told us that Bend has three different facilities, each geared to different climbing disciplines. The Circuit and Boardworks are two of the indoor climbing gyms in Bend that primarily focus on bouldering. The third facility is Bend Rock Gym.
“The best way to get started is to come in, ask questions, and get on the wall,” Han encouraged. “It’s a great way to meet other climbers, get connected, and potentially go outdoors.”
Bend Rock Gym has open climbing times where anyone can climb. Purchasing a monthly or annual membership saves you money in the long run, but day passes are available while you make sure rock climbing is your new thing.
Having a monthly or annual membership will also save you money on climbing lessons if you choose to take some classes. “Lessons never hurt, especially when it comes to learning how to belay and higher level…climbing,” Han told us.
Whether it is at Bend Rock Gym or another climbing gym, Han told us, “A great way to get connected with the climbing community is to get plugged into a local gym.” His other recommendation for getting plugged into the rock-climbing community—check out local Facebook groups.
Keep it Safe
There are risks with everything we do. As you can probably imagine, rock climbing may take some of those risks to the next level.
But steps can be taken to avoid those risks as much as possible. Han feels that it starts with being knowledgeable about what you are doing.
“Depending on the discipline, it’s important to learn and understand each of these risks and how to mitigate them,” Han said. “Classes and courses are a great way to get introduced to these risks and learn how to be a safe climber.”
Make sure you have the right equipment, make sure you climb with experienced people and make sure you get plugged into the climbing community.
Oh, and have fun.
