In the high desert of Central Oregon, beer is spoken about in the same way some people talk about religion or the weather—it is an omnipresent, life-affirming force.
We are a region built on the backbone of the IPA, where Boneyard’s RPM has achieved icon status; a place where the scent of Citra hops practically hangs in the air like a mouth-watering fog.
But if you pull your nose out of that West Coast hop obsession for a second and look toward the unfettered fringes, you’ll find a group of liquid alchemists playing a much longer game of wild fermentation.
These brewers have moved away from the “grain to glass in two weeks” hustle. Instead, they are embracing a philosophy rooted in three patient pillars: wood, honey and the most precious ingredient of all—time.
What is Wild Fermentation in Beer?
But what is wild fermentation, and what makes a beer brewed with this method so different from your average pint?
Mark Henion of Van Henion Brewing describes it as a process of introducing diverse bacteria and yeasts, most notably Brettanomyces and Lactobacillus.
“The most traditional method is the Belgian-style lambic,” Henion said. “They brew the wort [unfermented beer] and then leave it in a coolship—a large shallow tank—and open up the windows or vents and let it naturally ferment from the microbes in the air.”
It is essentially a contract with nature—a philosophical engine where humans must be as non-disruptive as possible while trusting nature’s ecosystem to help craft a small-batch work of alcoholic art.
Paul Arney, founder of The Ale Apothecary, explained the deeper magic of wild fermentation.
“It’s how people knew how to make things before they discovered microorganisms,” Arney said. “In the old days, people knew about fermenting, but they didn’t know how it worked. They’d have a ‘magic stick’ that hung on a wall. They would put it in whatever they’re trying to ferment. Yeast would be living in the wood of that stick and kick off fermentation.”
They did not know it was yeast.
“The whole reason I went with wild fermentation was to make something completely natural—the broth, the raw materials; [It’s] the way that people used to ferment things,” Arney said.
Funky Fauna Artisan Ales and Wild Beer in Bend
Michael Frith, head brewer of Funky Fauna Artisan Ales—which he co-owns with his wife Danielle Burns—is putting the art back in artisan ale one barrel at a time. From catching wild yeast in the clean, crisp air of Sisters to opening their new tasting room in Bend, nothing about Funky Fauna feels—or tastes—by the book.
“There’s a constant microcosm of yeast and bacteria living around us with numerous ways to harvest or culture it,” Frith said. “We use wort and the cold open air to inoculate a wild culture for fermentation.”
One of the easiest comparisons, he said, is a sourdough starter made from flour and water. “If we were to ‘add’ a strain of yeast from a commercial yeast laboratory, I would no longer, personally, consider that wild.”
While “bacteria” might sound intimidating, Funky Fauna’s tap list is remarkably approachable, even while tasting unlike a typically fermented beer.
The Sea Plague, a wild oak-aged saison with Oregon seaweed, wasabi root, ginger, lime and sea salt, is deceptively playful—the ginger provides a crisp initial bite while the seaweed offers a savory finish. Dueling Cats, another standout saison brewed with Oregon marionberries and rhubarb, is a tart, light-bodied sipper made for a high-desert summer.
Mead Your Maker: Lazy Z Ranch Wines
Wild fermentation is not just for beer. John Herman of Lazy Z Ranch Wines in Sisters uses many of the same principles and philosophies to craft some of the Pacific Northwest’s most distinctive mead while ethically and sustainably producing honey in biodiverse, regenerative bee pastures.
Herman takes his stewardship of the ranch—one of the oldest in Sisters—seriously. He focuses on mead because he believes it is one of the most environmentally sustainable adult beverages on Earth.
“I like to give expression to nature,” Herman said. “I do not come at fermentation wanting to bend it to my will or force it into some fixed flavor profile. I want to accentuate what is already there and present it well. For me, the job is to guide, discover and marvel, not dominate.”
The results are immediately apparent. No two meads taste remotely the same, and gone are the sickly sweet syrups often associated with mead.
The Estate Traditional Style carries vanilla and apple aromas with bright caramel and cardamom flavor that deserves to be savored.
The Carrot Blossom Traditional Style begins with an earthy, full-bodied depth before swirling into aged rum notes that pair perfectly with a sunset behind the Three Sisters.
Even for those with only a passing interest in mead or wine, Lazy Z Ranch is worth the visit. If not for the views, then for a conversation with Herman about what he hopes people take away from the ranch itself.
“It’s an invitation to leave things better than we found them,” Herman said. “People will see a real working ranch and a farm that is trying to function as a healthier system for land, animals and people. I hope what they take away is not just that they tasted something good, but that this way of farming and making things is possible.”
Why Wild Fermentation Matters in Central Oregon
It’s easy to stay in our brewery comfort zones. Central Oregon is a delightful wonderland covered in them. That’s why pioneers like Funky Fauna, Lazy Z Ranch and The Ale Apothecary are so vital. They fearlessly buck trends to follow an unfiltered, all-natural bliss.
As Bryon Pyka of Terranaut Brewing notes, the future of the small-batch and craft scene belongs to those who “seek out and latch onto quality, innovation and places where they find a sense of community.”
During a time of short-lived trends, these makers remind us that the most enduring flavors are the ones that arrive wild, unfiltered and funky.
Wild Fermentation Q&A
What is wild fermentation?
Wild fermentation uses naturally occurring yeast and bacteria from the environment rather than relying entirely on commercial yeast strains.
What makes wild beer taste different?
Wild beers often develop tart, funky, earthy or complex flavors because of the diverse microorganisms involved in fermentation and aging.
Is wild fermentation the same as sour beer?
Not always. Many wild beers have tart characteristics, but wild fermentation can also create earthy, floral, savory or fruit-forward flavors without intense sourness.
What is Brettanomyces?
Brettanomyces—often shortened to “Brett”—is a wild yeast strain commonly used in wild ales and saisons. It can create funky, fruity or earthy flavor profiles.
Where can you try wild fermentation in Central Oregon?
Funky Fauna Artisan Ales, The Ale Apothecary and Lazy Z Ranch Wines are among the Central Oregon makers exploring wild fermentation through beer and mead.
What is mead?
Mead is an alcoholic beverage made by fermenting honey with water. It is sometimes referred to as honey wine.
Where does the name Fuse come from?
“I had these big moments of grief accompanied by accomplishment, where it was this severing of a past life,” she said. “The ending of my time in my hometown, me going off to a new place for the first time and really stepping fully into myself, then finally completing my education after seven years and having this abrupt end to a relationship that had been there with me through all of it. So, the past lives that I reference [in the work] are in relation to those different versions of myself that I’ve been through in these major chapters of my life,” she said.
