Drive south from Bend and hang a left at La Pine. This is the Oregon Outback. Rugged, remote and nary another soul in sight.
Homesteading History
Photo by Alex Jordan
Stretch your legs in history at the Fort Rock Homestead Museum. A handful of late-1800s era buildings are filled with historic items to discover. Take a few minutes to learn about the history of the homesteaders who tried to make a home in this rugged country.
Race Against the Snow
Photo by Kat Dierickx
Hager Mountain is about an hour from the museum. While the trail is heavily trafficked in spring and summer for peak wildflower season, by late fall the hike has mostly cleared out. There are a few routes to get to the top, depending on how far you want to hike. A four-mile trek to the summit begins at the trailhead on East Bay Road. Follow the trail through a Ponderosa forest until you reach the top. A rustic fire lookout awaits at the summit, and can be rented out from November through March each year. (Getting a reservation is difficult due to its popularity.)
Oregon’s Outback Steak (and Chicken) House
Photo by Melissa Whitney
Hopefully the eight-mile trek has worked up an appetite in you. A half-hour drive back to Silver Lake is all that sits between you and one of the best meals you can dream of. Cowboy Dinner Tree is a destination in itself. The reservation-only restaurant provides a generous meal—think a whole chicken to a plate and steaks bigger than your head—all without using electricity. It’s a family-friendly dining experience, where you’ll leave on a first name basis with the owners and chefs.
Sometime between the middle of September and the middle of November, I get the urge to read a moody book. I am not a person who likes to be scared; horror movies and truly scary books I just pass right over. But, I do love a solidly creepy tale during autumn. There is something about the light of fall, the crisp air and the smell of woodsmoke that makes me want to curl up with a slightly sinister novel. I have read all of these books multiple times and have cherished copies that sit proudly on my bookshelves at home, waiting until the leaves begin to turn to be pulled out and re-read.
The Secret History by Donna Tartt
If you want that sinister autumnal feeling and a murder mystery.
Less of a Who-Done-It than a Why-Done-IT, Tartt investigates the banality of evil in a beautifully crafted novel about a group of college friends, who while studying Classics at an elite New England college manage to kill someone during a reenactment of a Bacchanalian rite. Fair warning: There are no “likable” characters in The Secret History, but it is still oh so good.
What Was She Thinking: Notes on a Scandal by Zoë Heller
If you want a story that will slowly give you the creeps.
Sheba Hart is a middle aged, middle class teacher in suburban London when she begins an illicit affair with an underage student. When the scandal breaks Sheba is a social pariah, ripe for the kind friendship of prim, respectable Barbara, an elderly teacher who has been at the school forever. And Barbara has been waiting for just such a friend as this, utterly alone and desperate. What Was She Thinking: Notes on a Scandal will give you a deep case of the chills.
Lolly Willowes by Sylvia Townsend Warner
If you love Jane Austen’s books, but wish there was more Satan in them.
When Laura Willowes’ father dies, she is left with her inheritance and the unassuming, and unremarkable, life of a spinster aunt caring for her brother’s children in London. For years she does exactly what society expects of her, until all of a sudden she doesn’t. Lolly Willowes is an early feminist classic that’s a perfect read in the fall.
Thornyhold by Mary Stewart
If you want a mildly witchy hearth-and-home novel.
Thonyhold was once described to me as a “Witchy Anne of Green Gables” and it fits. Geillis lives a lonely childhood in pre-WWII England, periodically brightened by random visits from her eccentric herbalist and world traveling aunt. As a young woman, the same aunt leaves her an old estate in the English countryside. As Geillis learns the secrets of her overgrown estate and its heirloom flowers she discovers maybe Thornyhold isn’t all she inherited from her aunt. This is every inch the comfort read with white magic, hedgewitchery and a cat named Hodge.
Bunnicula: A Rabbit Tale of Mystery by Deborah and James Howe
If you wish books had more vampire bunnies in them.
I can’t recommend autumnal stories without a bonus mention of a book I read every year (a tradition which now my children have picked up). I can honestly recommend Bunnicula: A Rabbit Tale of Mystery to everyone between 5 and 105. When a small rabbit shows up at the Monroe household, leaving behind mysteriously drained vegetables, it is up to Chester the Cat and Howard the Dog to solve the mystery of this night creeping rabbit before it is too late.
Hyper-visited Smith Rock settles down to just you and a few friends in late fall. Now’s the time to hike crowd-free and ponder the towering tuff spires.
To climb or not to climb?
Pack a jacket and bring your park pass but don’t worry about finding parking, because fall is far less crowded at Smith Rock State Park. Drop to the Crooked River and climb up aptly named Misery Ridge for the workout and the views. With kids, dogs or your parents? Stroll around the base of this majestic volcanic tuff formation instead—it’s an easy hike with plenty of splendor, no climbing required.
Alpaca, Youpacka
Photo by Justin Bailie
Alpaca babies are called cria, and they are born March through autumn. Stop by Crescent Moon Ranch in Terrebonne to see alpacas up close, from the newest babies to their fuzzy parents. Crescent Moon is also home to an Alpaca Boutique, showcasing items for sale from wool scarves to socks to hats, perfect to outfit you into the colder season.
Tacos and Beer For the Win
Kobold Brewing has been around since 2015 and opened the Vault Taphouse in Redmond a year ago. Roll in after your Terrebonne tour for a sip of the Screeching Blonde Ale, an easy-to-drink brew with light biscuit and honey flavors. Munch on the never-ending supply of popcorn from the Vault’s popcorn machine or grab a taco from the Westside Taco Company cart on site. Try the chicken mole—olé!
The Single Speed World Championship, a mountain biking race that doesn’t take itself too seriously, recently took over the town, with raucous and rowdy results.
I looked up from the bottom of “Hospital Hill” after navigating my borrowed 1999 singlespeed GT mountain bike down a treacherous section of questionable trail. Covered head to toe in dust, I peered through the sealed, dark lenses of mountaineering goggles looking like I’m straight out of a scene from Burning Man. I gazed up at what may as well be a ski slope without the snow. After ingesting a shot of rye whiskey from an “aid” station at the top, racers either glide their bikes, walk or stumble their way down this sheer mountain face of infinite dirt. But the “Rasta Rocket” (Adam Prosise) came ripping down upon his bike, leaving the rest of us in a cloud of volcanic dust.
After surviving the weekend upon the saddles of two-wheel singlespeed cycling machines hurling through raucous pub crawls, historic parties and a forty-mile bike race, the dust clouds have finally cleared, and the 2018 Single Speed World Championship (SSWC) has come to a close. For five days in October, Bend saw approximately 700 riders from across the globe partake in the twenty-third annual event of cycling shenanigans.
The event was originally coined in 1995 as “The Wasted Hairy Insanely Retro League of Enlightened Degenerates” and took place in Big Bear Lake, California. It began more as a counter culture movement than a serious world championship race. Today, the race is a mix of both. In Bend, the festival offered plenty of beer drinking and wild parties in addition to the hard racing. I knew I had to sign up.
Designation for each year’s hosting site is decided by some form of beer drinking or outrageous challenge held during the previous year’s race. In Rotorua, New Zealand, the location of the 2017 SSWC, a Bend coalition of cycling aficionados won the honors of bringing the event to Central Oregon for the very first time. Local cycling legends like Carl Decker (’08 SSCW Champion) and Adam Craig (’09 SSCW Champion) helped lead the charge, designing the forty-mile course. Crow’s Feet Commons owner David Markis designated the coffee and bike shop downtown as the official SSWC headquarters.
“It was really neat to see how all of this was unfolding,” Decker said. “You kind of just count on the kindness of others and for them to come through, and the community really just did a great job.”
Riders from as far as Japan, Scotland, and Australia were entertained by daily group rides through Bend’s epic scenery and trails. On Thursday night, riders rode their bikes from brewery-to-brewery and ended at Volcanic Theatre Pub in what was dubbed “Carl’s Crawl.” Friday night, an official welcoming party at Tumalo Creek Kayak & Canoe had countries like Slovenia and Canada vying for next year’s hosting location, battling through beer-drinking challenges and “nautical” endeavors.
Saturday, I joined 700 other singlespeed diehards at the starting line of the forty-mile race. From pros and legends to unicyclists and tandem racers, all the racers were dressed in costumes laden over cycling jerseys, spandex shorts and sometimes hardly anything at all. Each and every one of us was ready for the time of our lives while wearing tutus, onesies and superhero capes. Clearly, Halloween had come to Bend early this year.
With forty miles and 4,000 feet of climbing ahead of us on top of our singlespeed steeds, riders ascended in pursuit of the worldwide coveted “trophy tattoo” adorned by every winner of the event for the past twenty-three years. As we hammered along, dehydrated riders pulled into aid stations that resembled outdoor living rooms, accompanied with hookah bars, margaritas, bacon and water. I watched elite riders complete a keg stand or chug a beer before getting back on their bikes and the trail.
Grins painted with dirt and sweat spread across riders faces as they rolled into the finish line and were welcomed in by high fives and weary hugs. Defending Marathon National Champion and Red Bull athlete Payson McElveen won tattoo honors in the men’s category. Course designer Carl Decker finished in a close second place. Pro rider Rachel Lloyd took home the lifelong prize in the women’s category.
When it was all said and done, the party gathered at Crow’s Feet Common for the official award ceremony. The “branding” of the winners took center stage and live music filled the air as everyone simply celebrated finishing the race in one piece.
Almost twenty-five years later, there is no doubt that the event continues to inspire both mockeries and legends. Plan on it all happening again next year halfway across the world in Slovenia, the official hosting location for 2019. Bring your wits, your good vibes and your singlespeed.
Dennis McGregor mixes humor with colorful, whimsical notes in his paintings, writings and songs.
For a sixtysomething guy who says he’s never had a “RG”—a real gig that offers conversation around a water cooler or employer-paid benefits—Dennis McGregor hasn’t had trouble staying busy. Instead of punching a clock, he’s followed his creative impulses to build a life around painting, music, songwriting, book illustration and writing. “I’ve never had a job, but it’s on my bucket list,” he joked.
McGregor’s sense of humor is evident in the playful work he creates. His second book, You Stole My Name, published in 2017, is a series of humorous play-on-word paintings that pair an animal with the animal from which it takes its name. For instance, a parrot is coupled with a parrot fish, a cowbird sits on a cow and an elephant seal swims with an elephant. The animals are colorful and whimsical, painted in opaque water colors known as gouache.
Verses accompany each illustration. The alligator lizard’s rhyme goes like this:
“All you ever do is bite – bite all day, bite all night. I just want to do the same. That is why I stole your name!”
McGregor is largely self-taught in art and music. He dropped out of college to play acoustic guitar and violin with the band Natty Bumppo in the 1970s. After twelve years with the band, McGregor said he traded “one low-paying job for another.” For a few years, he was a self-employed graphic designer living in Southern California, until he moved to Sisters in the 1990s seeking a simpler lifestyle.
A chance meeting with Jean Wells, the prominent Sisters artist and quilter, launched McGregor’s career as a poster artist when she commissioned him to create a poster for the 1992 Sisters Outdoor Quilt Show. This led to thirteen more posters for the quilt show and then commissions from the Sisters Rodeo, Sunriver Music Festival, Crooked River Roundup and the Oregon Country Fair.
“Dennis wears many different hats and seldom goes bareheaded,” said Helen Schmidling, manager of the Sisters Gallery & Frame Shop which sells McGregor’s original paintings, prints and notecards. “He’s one of our top-selling artists, plus he’s a singer, songwriter, performer and multitalented artist,” she said.
McGregor’s art can also be viewed at Forest Service interpretive centers and in large-scale outdoor murals throughout Central Oregon. A buck jumping over the moon can be spied above the Sisters Liquor Store. In Bend, McGregor’s oversize depictions of a mule deer, bull trout and a chicken hawk adorn five-foot-tall and fifteen-foot-wide panels recently installed in the Old Mill District.
It’s no coincidence that nature plays a central theme in his art. His studio is located on five acres outside Sisters which he bought in 2005 and where he built “a humble abode and could work the land,” he said. Visitors are likely to be greeted by McGregor, sitting on a wood chair on the front porch of his hand-built studio, a guitar hanging on the exterior wall behind him and his pound dog, Hank, lounging alongside. The woodsy setting includes his home and a serpentine stack of wood that is both decorative and functional. (It provides heat to his residence and studio.)
He’s produced three albums, and his band, Dennis McGregor and the Spoilers, can be seen playing original tunes around town on any given night. McGregor’s two books (the first one, Dream Again, was published in 2013) are sold in independent bookstores throughout Central Oregon.
Not one to idle, McGregor concluded this writer’s interview by announcing that he was “itching” to get back into the studio to finish drawings for a client. He’s also working on You Stole My Name, Too, a sequel to the first book, a pond he’s digging by hand for his grandchildren and an occasional mountain bike ride “to try to stay in balance,” he said. “It all keeps me pretty happy.”
Bend’s Next Level Burger may just have the new recipe for the fast food franchise.
Matt de Gruyter wants to change the way America thinks about its favorite food, the good ol’ burger. A former venture capital manager, de Gruyter operates Next Level Burger, an upstart restaurant chain based in Bend. His creation might just be the next big idea in fast food: a gourmet burger, hold the patty, or at least the meat. Now with seven locations, including New York and San Francisco, Next Level has ambitious goals, including opening 1,000 restaurants by 2024.
Skeptics might be quick to dismiss de Gruyter as another granola-munching do-gooder whose ideals don’t square with the consumer behaviors that bolster a $290 billion fast food industry, dominated by beef-centric businesses like McDonalds and Burger King. But de Gruyter isn’t your stereotypical vegan and his restaurant concept turns the notion of what a vegetarian restaurant can look like on its ear.
“I didn’t want another too-cool-for-school vegan concept, because there are a lot of those. I wanted to make an unabashed burger joint that would appeal to the 25-year-old who walks in and says, it’s not a burger unless it has meat, because that was me,” said de Gruyter, who, while growing up in Denver, was raised on a diet of sausage for breakfast and steak for dinner.
A reluctant experimentation with vegetarianism as a show of solidarity with his wife, Cierra, turned out to be life-changing. De Gruyter said he pledged to follow a vegetarian diet for thirty days, but realized after two weeks that he was feeling better and had more energy. He hasn’t looked back since. The new diet also opened his eyes to the lack of variety in vegetarian dining options. Instead of grumbling about the omission, he seized on the opportunity.
Next Level Burger founder, Matt de Gruyter
Walk into the company’s flagship location in Bend, which served as a proof of concept for de Gruyter and his backers, and you’re immediately struck by the familiarity of a fast-food restaurant. But it’s also clear that you’re not in your father’s fast-food joint. There are no heating lamps behind the counter, no smell of fried fat lingering in the air. Instead there’s a palette of warm pastels on the walls, punctuated with slogans like, “Burgers for a Better World.” It’s a vibe that evokes Oregon’s other popular fast casual places such as Café Yumm and Laughing Planet. But while those restaurants mix in vegetarian and vegan options with traditional proteins like chicken and beef, Next Level Burger is 100 percent vegan. That’s not to say that diners don’t have choices. Next Level is all about showing how many ways the traditional burger can be deconstructed and rebuilt, from black bean patties to mushroom and quinoa-based combinations that look and taste like their meat counterparts.
De Gruyter said Next Level Burger is about more than adding another vegetarian option for consumers. He wants to challenge how people think about burgers. If he’s successful, he will expand diners’ choices while reducing their impact on the planet.
De Gruyter doesn’t necessarily spend a lot of time trying to sell folks on the ethics of his burgers. He’s more concerned about the flavor. The same goes for his business model. Next Level Burger grew out of his own lifestyle changes, but the business plan is anchored in an understanding of the changing way that Americans are approaching their plates. Growth in sales of plant-based foods reached eight percent last year, according to Forbes, and is expected to continue growing at that rate over the next seven years as millennials tilt the scales toward environmentally informed foods and aging boomers search for healthy alternatives to traditional foods.
“I have two children who were the catalyst for reinventing the concept of the all-American burger joint, but I think there is a pent-up demand for healthier options,” said de Gruyter.
The plan was to open the first location in Portland where the market seemed ready-made for the Next Level concept, but a visit to Bend in 2013 convinced de Gruyter, whose wife was raised in the area, that Central Oregon was the perfect place to test their idea. The couple sold their house in Southern California, and de Gruyter left his private equity job in the oil and gas industry. He jokes that Next Level’s environmentally responsible business model is an atonement for his past profession where words like conservation and climate change were rarely uttered.
They packed up and moved to Bend within a few months of that initial visit and threw themselves into developing the restaurant, which opened in July 2014.
That pent-up demand was evident from day one. Customers came first partially out of curiosity but have returned out of loyalty. The same pattern has been repeated in Portland, where the concept caught the attention of an early Twitter engineer, Alex Payne, who has since become a friend and investor, helping to fuel Next Level’s rapid growth that includes locations in Brooklyn and the Bay Area.
A recent association with Amazon-owned Whole Foods Market has been a boom. Five of the company’s seven restaurants are inside Whole Foods, including its San Francisco, Brooklyn and Seattle locations. Next on the horizon for the business is a location in Austin, Texas, in the heart of burger country, slated to open before the end of the year. De Gruyter said he realizes that growing from a half dozen locations to a thousand in just a few years is beyond ambitious, but doing what can’t be done is just part of the recipe at Next Level Burger.
“We have taken a different approach, and that was always the intention and our plan from the beginning. We wanted not to be just another regional player. We want to own the reinvention of the American burger joint.”
Luthier and woodworking artist Will Nash inhabits the space where trees meet design.
Photo by Alex Jordan
In his warehouse studio parking lot, Will Nash wields a chainsaw, making strategic cuts into a hefty maple log, set on end and towering several feet over Nash’s head. Sawdust, airborne moments before, comes to rest as fine as cosmetic powder on Nash’s auburn-gray beard and black-rimmed glasses. “It will be a couple embracing,” he said, pausing before the rough column. “Right now I’m trying to find the heads.”
With just a few slashes, it’s easy to see something akin to Gustav Klimt’s “The Kiss” trapped in the splintery trunk, the medium for a commissioned sculpture that Nash had begun that afternoon. The monolith had brooded for a week outside his workspace on Northeast 2nd Street, in Bend’s burgeoning Maker’s District, before Nash began sawing.
“There’ll be an embrace, there’ll be a kiss, hopefully not a grotesque representation of love,” he said. “There’s a lot of ways to mess up a sculpture, but there’s a lot of ways to fix it, too.”
Photo by Alex Jordan
A creative commission such as this is the kind of work that Nash thrives on, and finds the most satisfying use of his talents, although he can build practically anything—grand homes from the ground up, cabinets, trellises, Jewish wedding chuppah canopies laden with lichen and moss, guitars, ukuleles and custom furniture, as well as art and functional objects.
This artist-craftsman’s life seems to have been all about wood and inspired design right from the start. He grew up in a geodesic dome on forty acres of old-growth juniper in Tumalo in the 1970s, making forts and climbing trees, which were not just play structures, but plant playmates. “I had my first conversations with trees,” said Nash, 49, who as a child could sense the memory locked in the gnarled, twisted trunks.
His mother had fled the Bay Area to realize her dream, living on the expanse of land with her five children. She built the geodesic dome home in 1976 when Nash was 7, and the hemispherical thin-shell was hailed as a way to shelter more people comfortably, efficiently and economically.
After Nash graduated from Redmond High School, he studied literature, art and architecture at the University of Oregon, did post-graduate study in architecture at Portland State University and went to work at Wieden + Kennedy advertising in Portland.
After five years, he was laid off. He began making musical instruments in a tiny, 1920s converted carriage house in Portland and teaching himself the craft, poring over books by master luthiers. He and his wife, Donna, moved from Portland to Bend in 2002 (before daughters Doris, 14, and Eleanor, 11, were born) and he began building mandolins for Breedlove Guitars here.
“It was bootcamp luthiery,” said Nash, whose rough hands reveal his preference for working with them. “I was finishing three mandolins a day, and starting three a day. I built more than 800 mandolins there.” Bend guitar maker Jayson Bowerman worked there at the time, too, and trained Nash, a quick study who single-handedly built all the company’s mandolins for a several years.
“Will’s greatest strength lies in his ability to work with clients, internalize their design intent and translate that into any style of piece,” said Bowerman. “His training as an architect gives him the ability to work with small, intricate minutia to large, architectural size work. His gestalt is the ability to use his wide-ranging skillset for anything he puts his hands to, and so it’s hard to pigeon-hole someone so versatile, who can embrace so many different styles.”
For example, he cited architectural-scale pieces such as the pulpit that Nash created for the Unitarian Universalist Fellowship of Central Oregon. Nash won the commission to create eighteen pieces for the new state of the art, LEED-certified, Unitarian building in Bend in 2014. The scope of work included the altar, minister’s tables and chairs, entry benches and information kiosk.
On the other end of the spectrum are Nash’s rocking chairs, made in the iconic style of Sam Maloof, the first craftsman to receive a MacArthur fellowship, known as the “genius grant.”
“It’s not the easiest to build, and Will mastered that chair construction, which is a high art form,” said Bowerman.
Back in his studio, Nash had completed a twelve-foot-long conference table of ambrosia maple. The surface consists of two highly polished slabs that meet seamlessly, imparting a Rorschach-test-like mirrored effect, with the natural edge of the tree on the perimeter. In a saucer-sized gap in the wood, perhaps where a tree branch had grown, Nash inlayed mussel shells gathered by the client and his daughter. Nash had crushed and suspended the shells in epoxy, smoothly filling in the void. The table base, inspired by George Nakashima, father of the American craft movement, was a first for Nash.
Yes, he loves the process of crafting, but the culmination satisfies him most. “It’s the human exchange, that’s the best part. I get to be creative, and you get something [in return].”
A former Silicon Valley engineer, Tom Tormey retired and is now a pilot for the nonprofit Angel Flights, an organization that connects private pilots with medical patients in need of transportation.
It’s a bit of an inside joke among weekend pilots that they will make any excuse to get their wheels off the ground. Need a gallon of milk? Better hop in the plane. Looking for great Mexican food? It’s just a half hour away by air. Most pilots don’t need any reason at all to pull the wheel chocks and taxi down the runway. Flying is addictive.
Tom Tormey is no different. A retired electrical engineer and self-proclaimed wannabe astronaut, Tormey started flying twelve years ago in his free time, which was limited given a demanding career that saw him bounce from one Silicon Valley startup venture to the next. His last stint, with a company that made software for electric vehicle charging stations, was lucrative enough that Tormey was able to buy his dream airplane, a twin-engine Beechcraft Baron that seats six passengers and luggage. It was the perfect plane for weekend escapes. He flew from the Bay Area to Death Valley for quick getaways. He flew to Tahoe and the Central Valley to visit family. Still, Tormey had an itch to do something more with his time in the air.
The son of a Navy pilot who flew Corsair fighters off aircraft carriers in the Pacific during World War II, Tormey wanted to fly with a purpose. When he read about Angel Flights, an organization that connects private pilots with medical patients in need of transportation, Tormey knew immediately that he wanted to be a part of it. Tormey had the plane and the skills. What he didn’t have was time. That changed when he retired and moved to Bend with his wife, less than three years ago.
Since then, Tormey’s interest has grown into a sort of obsession. He’s become one of Oregon’s most prolific pilots in the Angel Flights West fleet. By his own account, Tormey has flown more than 120 “missions” that have helped dozens of patients and families from rural areas access hospitals and specialists that are located hundreds of miles away. Some of the patients are children, some are mothers and grandmothers. Many are cancer patients who can neither afford nor handle commercial air travel.
“You get involved, whether it’s a kid or an adult. It’s hard not to. Trying to help these amazing people—amazing in the sense that they haven’t fallen apart with stress in their lives. You go the extra mile to help them,” said Tormey.
Early Angels
For an organization that has provided more than 40,000 medical flights over three-plus decades, Angel Flights maintains a relatively low profile. The small Santa Monica-based staff often must convince doctors and hospital staff that the program is not a scam. You can hardly blame the skepticism. In a me-first society, the notion that private pilots are flying patients back and forth to MRIs and oncology appointments at no cost to the patient or the hospital sounds too good to be true.
“A lot of times you knock on the door of a hospital and they find it hard to believe it’s real. They think we must be trying to sell them something, or there must be a catch. Believe it or not, it’s really difficult to give away this free service,” said Ivan Martinez, Angel Flights West Outreach and Communication coordinator.
No catch has been the philosophy from the start, when in the early 1980s a small group of Southern California pilots hatched the idea of providing free, non-emergency medical flights. In its first full year of operation, the organization provided a total of just fourteen flights.
It’s Martinez’s job to make sure that health providers know that Angel Flights exists. With chapters or “wings” in thirteen western states, word is steadily getting out. Over the past three decades the growth has been steady and sustained. Last year, Angel Flights pilots logged 4,500 flights, serving more than 1,000 patients. For these patients and their loved ones, the experience can be transformational.
Linda Dunham met Tormey three years ago. Dunham boarded Tormey’s twin-engine plane at a time when her life had been turned upside down. Dunham’s husband, Rick, had been recently diagnosed with brain cancer and undergone surgery. Doctors gave Rick fourteen months to live. His best hope was an experimental treatment offered at the University of California San Francisco (UCSF), almost nine hours away from the couple’s Eugene home by car.
To participate in the program, Rick had to be in California twice a week. Driving was time-consumptive. The couple operated a furniture store in Eugene, and time away from the business meant lost revenue at a time when medical bills were mounting. Flying commercially was both expensive and difficult, especially given that Rick’s condition included frequent seizures. Airport crowds created stress that could easily trigger Rick’s seizures. And yet, Rick needed to say yes to the UCSF trial program. “There wasn’t any other option,” Dunham said. “UCSF was the closest facility that could manage this type of brain tumor. And they were the best of the best.”
A hospital social worker offered a glimmer of hope by telling them about Angel Flights West. Desperate for help, they reached out. Tormey was one of the pilots who answered. Linda and Rick signed up for the UCSF trial program. Linda said she didn’t think they would have participated without the support of the Angel Flights program.
“We needed hope and having Angel Flights take us to these appointments gave us hope. There is no dollar amount that you can put on that,” Dunham said.
Getting the Message Out
Flying Linda and Rick was Tormey’s first Angel Flights mission. It quickly became a regular trip. Linda remembers Tormey flying most of the missions during the last several months of Rick’s care, with flights ending in 2017, after the hospital halted the experimental study. Linda and Rick looked for more options, but his health deteriorated. He died in August 2017, more than three years after his initial diagnosis.
Linda speaks publicly about her Angel Flights experience regularly. I met her at one of these talks in June. It was a meet and greet for Angel Flights pilots at the Aurora Airport outside Portland. Linda brought a framed picture of her husband, who she referred to as her “sweetie.”
Less than a year removed from his passing, the emotions were still raw. Still, she shared her story openly and graciously. It’s important that the pilots know what the flights meant to her, she said. Tormey and other pilots gave her the gift of time—time with Rick, and time to take a break from her role as a caregiver, just for an hour or two, during the plane ride. That emotional break is a common theme for Angel Flights passengers and patients.
Not to mention the fact that flying in a small plane can simply be … fun. It’s a thrill. It’s a different feeling than flying in a commercial jet—the difference between riding in the back seat of a car and riding on the back of a motorcycle.
Pam Allen is a cancer survivor who relied on Angel Flights to get her from her home in Medford to an oncologist in Portland at a time when she was too sick to drive herself. She remembers feeling desperation and fear—fear that missing even a single appointment would mean a major setback. She also remembers feeling something like joy for the first time in a long time on one of her first flights as a patient. As she soared over the Oregon landscape, her mind was, for once in long time, on something other than her illness.
“It was literally the first moment of fun that I’d had in the last twenty-five months,” Allen told a group of Angel Flight pilots in June. “That’s one of the other benefits—you give someone something fun during the worst time in their life.”
Tormey, who started a commercial air taxi business earlier this year to help cover the costs of all of his charity flying, relishes these bright little moments. He makes a point of letting patients take the “stick” for a few minutes, piloting the plane. It’s a singular thrill for many. At the end of each mission he likes to snap a photo of the passengers. He later posts them on a Facebook page that serves as a clearinghouse and log for all his Angel Flights missions. Some patients he will transport again in a matter of days or weeks. Other passengers will continue with their treatment and their lives without crossing his path again. That’s part of the job—knowing you’ve done your small part and letting go.
Dunham hasn’t flown with Tormey since Rick passed last year. Still, she remembers the patience he showed. She remembers the small things, how Tormey remembered names, the things that Rick liked, the things Rick could do and things he couldn’t.
“Some people treated Rick like a patient and some people would treat him like a friend,” Dunham said. “Tom treated Rick like a friend.”
This season, indulge in these delicious and classic Bend restaurant desserts.
You know the moment. You’re happily satiated by a meal, and then, the dessert menu arrives. The list is placed before you, suddenly the only thing you can see in the room, positively illuminated with its many virtues. Our advice? Say yes. Life is short, and Bend’s best pastry chefs know it. Here are a few of our favorite desserts from around town to enjoy this season.
Oregon Cider Berry Cobbler | The Row
Fresh off a trip to the mountain, stop by Tetherow’s The Row, the popular 19th hole of the golf resort, for a warm treat. The Oregon Cider Berry Cobbler offers something light as an alternative to the rich, heavy desserts that often come after winter meals. It’s a deconstructed cobbler, with two perfect slices of biscuit, a dollop of ice cream, and whole strawberries, blackberries and blueberries baked together in a sea of sweetness. Paired with a cup of coffee, and with flurries of snow falling around you, the dessert is a winter indulgence that will warm you up. — Bronte Dod
Donut Holes | Washington Dining & Cocktails
Perched on the corner of Mt. Washington just a short walk from Compass Park and Summit High School is Washington Dining & Cocktails,
A modern eatery that takes its casual chic queue from the surrounding NorthWest Crossing neighborhood. The menu features upscale comfort food prepared with a fine dining touch. You can keep it casual by ordering a double bacon cheeseburger with house-made pickles for dinner, or go upscale with beef tenderloin medallions with asparagus and potato hash. Whatever you order, don’t skip dessert. Washington features a classic flourless chocolate torte and crème brulee, but the most popular item is the donut holes. A ricotta-based treat that’s battered, deep-fried and then dusted with cinnamon sugar, the donuts are a great shareable item that are a little savory and a little sweet, said chef John Gurnee. “We wanted to keep a playful element to go with the casual theme and not be so elevated in our dessert menu.” We recommend pairing the donuts with ahandspun chocolate milkshake to complete the retro-casual theme. — Eric Flowers
Mozza’s Budino| Ariana Restaurant
Ariana Restaurant on Bend’s west side is consistently voted one of Central Oregon’s best fine dining locations. The luxurious interior with crystal chandeliers, chocolate colored woodworking and white tablecloths is as classy as it gets east of the Cascades. The menu equals in glamour, featuring octopus, duck and filet mignon. For dessert, tempt your taste buds with a dish that Ariana borrowed from Mozza Restaurant in Los Angeles. Mozza’s Budino is an Italian butterscotch pudding, blanketed with a layer of caramel and topped with vanilla whipped cream and a sprinkling of sea salt. The dessert is incredibly rich and best tasted in tiny dips of the spoon, perhaps alternated with sips of whiskey or champagne—just for balance, of course. My daughter and I enjoyed it straight up and still had a little leftover to take home in a plastic ramekin for her sister. Both girls declared the dessert “fancy” and the caramel the best they’d tasted anywhere. — Kim Cooper Findling
Breitenbush Hot Springs Retreat and Conference Center leaves you alone in the woods—in a good way.
There’s getting out of town, and then there’s really getting out of town. Breitenbush Hot Springs, east of Detroit, Oregon, is maybe one of the last places in the state (or anywhere?) where you can sleep in the woods with little danger of being interrupted by the irritants of civilization, technology or even your own vices.
At Breitenbush, not only is there no cell service or wifi, but you will be asked to consume an organic vegetarian diet (provided for you) accompanied by no alcohol, no tobacco and no caffeine. Meditation, yoga, ecstatic dancing, silence—these are all encouraged, as is clothing-optional soaking in one of seven outdoor hot spring-fed pools. When you don’t even need clothes, that’s about as purist as it gets.
Breitenbush has existed as a gathering place since Native Americans inhabited the area. In the 1920s, a Portlander who invented the first ice cream cone machine turned his profits into a resort on the banks of the Breitenbush River. In the 1970s, hippie culture came along and Breitenbush embraced it, as it still does today. If you want to know what Oregon was like four decades ago, it lives on in these sprightly woods. Think bell bottoms, unkempt hair and an exceptional amount of hugging.
The setting has been the stand-out feature over time. The historic lodge, meeting structures, cabins and tent-sites of Breitenbush are surrounded by a lush and magical forest cut through by the glistening Breitenbush River. Salmon swim in the river, deer wander through, eagles fly overhead.
Trails take you deeper into the woods, where even the modest crowds of a busy Breitenbush summer day fall away. Here, a mile or so up the trail, belly full of organic vegetables and marionberry lemonade, hold still and take in the silence, the scent of the woods, the thermal energy teeming beneath your feet. For a moment, these are all that matter; this is all there is. You can’t help but feel present and grateful, in that woods alone, which leads you to suspect that maybe the Breitenbush purists are on to something after all.
Emily Kirk, the evening weather anchor for NewsChannel 21, has known she wanted to be a TV reporter since she was 10 years old.
Emily Kirk reporting for NewsChannel 21
The most asked question of Emily Kirk, the evening weather anchor for NewChannel 21 (NC21), is how the greenscreen works. “The greenscreen is everyone’s favorite part,” she said with a laugh. She started at NC21 four years ago and became the evening weather anchor in 2016. It was a job she’s known she wanted since she was 10 years old, when she was moved by a TV reporters emotional storytelling on a tragic news story. “It struck a nerve,” she said, “and that’s what I wanted to do.”
She’s a graduate of University of Oregon where she produced for and anchored Duck TV, and learned the technical side of reporting. She moved to Bend with an idea of moving up to a larger TV market, but fell in love with the town and decided to stay.
The morning we talked, Kirk was on her way up to Tumalo Mountain for a hike, before coming back to town, putting on her TV makeup, and reporting the news and weather. Here’s what a typical workday looks like for her.
Sometime between 8 a.m. – 10 a.m. (depending on the day’s activities)
While everyone else is getting their hustle and bustle on at work, I’m just waking up. Breakfast is usually small: a hard-boiled egg, apple with peanut butter or oatmeal. Monday through Friday I have five to six hours in the mornings and early afternoon to do as I wish before work. Some mornings the rig is packed with skis, boots and layers and I’m off to Mount Bachelor. Other times of the year I weigh other outdoor activity options: mountain biking? A 5-mile hike along the river? Paddleboarding in the sun? Or maybe I’m being an “adult” and going grocery shopping or to the dentist. The day could include volunteering with the American Red Cross or speaking to a group of first graders answering questions like, “did you have braces?”
Today I sleepily said “goodbye” to my boyfriend as he left for work, looked out the window at the frost on the roof and debated carrying through with my plans (my cold threshold is extremely low), made a cup of coffee, loaded up the car and headed out the door.
By 11:30 a.m. I was at the top of Tumalo Mountain taking in the views of the fresh dusting of snow on the Cascades. When I got back to the car at 12:15 p.m. I decided to try biking on a trail near Tumalo Mountain. Because I’m learning and new to mountain biking I don’t go for very long by myself, so I was back in the car by 1 p.m.
At 1:30 p.m. I arrived to the Athletic Club of Bend where I did a quick weight circuit, sweated the rest out in the sauna, showered quickly (non-hair washing day – dry shampoo saves lives!), and headed to work.
2:30 p.m.: Prep Time
I go through my checklist: Dress? Check. Straightener? Check. Make up bag? Check. Snacks? Duh. (I’ll usually throw some veggie sticks, hummus, apples, protein bars, or a random leftover in my lunch bag). I head off to work in either my dirty midsized SUV (so Bend-y) or motor scooter. If I go the back way I can make it to work in less than ten minutes.
2:45 p.m.: “The Daily Grind”
First task is hair and makeup. (Yes, I do it myself. No, there is no hair and makeup person.) To be quite honest, this is my least favorite part of the day. If you’ve seen me outside of work I am typically out enjoying the elements—sunscreen all over my face, sweat dripping from my forehead or wet from swimming. I’ll drink another coffee in the dressing room while I get ready. Shout out to Strictly Organic for the work caffeine!
4 p.m.: “Now, From Central Oregon’s Newsleader this is NewsChannel 21 Fox at Four.”
By this time I should have the promo—a quick video to tease ahead to the evening shows—and most of the forecast done. I update graphics and numbers throughout the day during our newscasts at 4, 5, 6, 6:30, 7, 10, 10:30, and 11 p.m. For the next seven and a half hours I, personally, will be responsible for around forty-five minutes of ad-libbing on live television. During the early evening shows I often use Facebook Live to interact with viewers and answer questions.
My job is essentially to be the messenger. I research what the weather will bring and how it will impact our community for the next week. Whether (ha! I never make puns!) it be “good” or “bad” weather, my job is to best inform you in an efficient and effective manner to get you prepared for your day. Should I wash my car (you know every time you do that it rains, right)? Will I need my powder skis or rock skis? Are clouds going to block my view of the Cascades?
7:45 p.m.: Dinner Break
Some nights I’m at home eating quinoa and veggies followed by a walk around the neighborhood. Other nights I’m meeting friends for a bite. Or maybe Costco is calling my name for a quick shopping trip accompanied by pizza.
Tonight I met a few friends at Goodlife for some story-swapping over a delicious soul-warming garlic potato soup. We laughed about how we really should learn how to change a bike tire tube and talked about how much has changed and what has stayed the same. After hugs goodbye in the cold parking lot we vowed to “do this again soon!” and we will. Maybe a few months from now, but we will.
10:00 p.m. – 11:45 p.m.: The Late Shows
Emily Kirk in front of the greenscreen.
Back to work for another hour and a half of live TV. During this time, I make sure the forecast is still accurate, update any graphics and monitor social media. This time of night is interesting at NewsChannel 21 because only a few people are working. We have a technical director, audio/graphics person, producer, reporter, anchor and myself. At 11:35 p.m. The Tonight Show music plays and we take off our microphones, turn down the studio lights and say goodnight to each other. The hum of the cleaning crews’ vacuum says farewell as I head out the door with my trusty backpack.
Midnight – 1 a.m.: Wind Down
I’m home and begin to settle into the night. The house is quiet, dark, and sleepy, and so am I. I’ll either do the remaining dishes in the sink, watch a quick show or read. Recently, I’ve been stretching out the day’s work on the living room carpet right before I head upstairs. Then it’s time for the fifteen-minute process of removing my makeup, brushing my teeth and getting ready for bed. I fall asleep to the smell of lavender lotion and plan out the next day’s unique story according to the forecast I just gave to thousands of people. If I have plans to play outside the next day and rain ruins my plans, then I’ll also be cursing the weatherperson.
As summer slips away into fall, there is a brief window of time where you can witness beautiful fall colors in Central Oregon throughout the region. Here’s your guide to not missing out.
Fall has arrived. That means it is time to dig out the scarves, find our fleece-lined jackets and footwear, don our thickly-knitted wool caps, and set aside the weekly stipend to curb our cravings and sustain our thirst for pumpkin-spiced lattes, ales and various deserts. But let us not forget; this season, which many of us look forward to, is also a time of change for the flora of Central Oregon. That’s right, it is time to watch trees.
Before we paint you a clear road map of where to go to see some of the best fall sights in Central Oregon, let’s dig into the science behind it all.
So why do leaves change color and fall?
Photo by Grant Tandy
Common deliberation may tell you that high winds and cold temperatures are the culprits behind autumn leaves falling, and honestly, you wouldn’t be completely wrong to say so. At first glance, this widely shared piece of wisdom seems simply plausible as a mechanism of force. As it turns out, weather doesn’t quite provide the catalyst for falling leaves, as much as it is the trees making a choice of efficiency; choosing to make a simple budget cut.
During the early weeks of fall, many trees and other plants are faced with a choice. The problem at hand is a weighing of costs and benefits of the leaves. As less and less sunlight is available, and the temperatures continue to drop, the tree must decide whether or not the leaves are worth keeping. Leaves provide much needed photosynthesis for trees. They absorb the rays of the sun, and turn it into usable energy. As the leaves slow their levels of photosynthesis, the green chlorophyll is broken down, leaving behind the varied coloration of leaves we seen this time of year.
As the leaves become less and less efficient to the tree, where the cost of energy output for keeping the leaves from freezing outweighs the benefit of energy from photosynthesis, the tree chooses to simply eject the leaves from its system. If you want to sound smart at your next gathering, you can explain this process to your friends as family as “abscission.” During abscission, the tree experiences a lack of chlorophyll, and then releases chemical hormones that signal the cutting of the leaves. It’s a tree making a decision to “trim the fat.” (Similar to me telling myself that the dozen or so of pumpkin ales I want to have this week might not be exactly financially sound, and maybe I should stick with the far more cost-efficient water.)
That’s all well and good, but let’s get to the important stuff—where do we go to get that perfect fall photo?
Photo by Grant Tandy
For our many East Coast transplants here in Central Oregon, the term “leafing” in the fall is well known. For those of our residents who hail from the southern reaches of the West Coast, the term may be completely unknown. It’s simply a term given to activity of seeking out fall colors in changing leaves. But for all of who now call Central Oregon home, regardless of our origins, finding a bit of fall color in the trees and shrubs around us may present a particular challenge. After all, we are in the high desert, where comparatively few deciduous, color-changing plants are found native to our region.
Of course, you can’t go the season without making at least one annual visit to Drake Park, where oak trees stand in plenty, releasing their pre-winter wares. For the true feeling of fall in Bend, this park is a must-see. I, for one will, be taking my children, a rake, our dog, and an iPhone for our yearly photo session of live-action shots in the romping of piles upon piles of beautifully arrayed fallen leaves. But what if you are feeling a little more adventurous?
Fear not, my fellow leafers. You need not travel far to find fall colors in the wilds of Central Oregon. Simply drive west. A few dozen miles will do. Head over on Highway 20, not far from Sisters. There, on the cusp of where the east side of the Cascades meets the west, you will find a sight unknown to even to most well-rehearsed East Coast leafers, here the colors of autumn can be found hiding in the most unlikely of places. Groves of quaking aspen can be found woven between the color-challenged ponderosas pines. Peer even farther into the unique, as low-lying Vine Maple and Douglas Maples are sprinkled throughout jet-black obsidian flows and other rocky croppings, creating sights visible for a only matter of weeks before snow comes and blankets all that surrounds.
If you can, schedule yourself a flight over the Central Oregon Cascades during the transformative weeks of October. There you will see how truly unique our fall is. Yes, it is shorter than most of us prefer. If you have lived here long enough, it almost feels as if you are tossed directly from the heat of summer into the bone chilling cold of winter, and autumn only makes a short cameo along the way. But perhaps that is what makes the high desert fall so special. The season may not last a matter of months like it does in many other regions in the United States, but its seemingly fleeting arrival, to me anyway, makes it more worthwhile. So catch it while you can.
How a wildlife curator at the High Desert Museum in Bend spends her day.
Alysia Wolf
Alysia Wolf is the Associate Curator of Wildlife at the High Desert Museum in Bend. She’s worked there for more than five years, spending her days taking care of the wildlife that live at the natural and living history museum. Here’s how she spends her days.
8:30 a.m.: After a stop by the wildlife kitchen I’m on my way, privileged to start my day with the best morning greeters around: Rogue, Brook and Pitch. The three North American river otters seem to anticipate my arrival or, more likely, the arrival of their breakfast, which includes fish and quail.
9:00 a.m.: While the otters indulge in their fresh, healthy meal, I clean their habitat. It’s a lot of scrubbing and even more scooping. Some of the smelliest odors come from these adorable creatures, but keeping the otters’ area sanitary is important for their health. This won’t be the only time today that I put on my custodian hat! All the animals at the Museum benefit from clean, well-maintained habitats.
10:00 a.m.: Once the Autzen Otter Exhibit is sparkling (and the otter bellies are full), I’m off to work with the raptors. Like all the animals in the Museum’s care, the birds receive routine, daily health checks. The birds are weighed daily so we can prepare the right amount of food for them, and we conduct a visual inspection of their feet, beak, feathers and the rest of their body to make sure they’re looking and feeling their best.
11:30 a.m.: One of our most popular experiences at the Museum is the summer Raptors of the Desert Sky outdoor flight show. Our female peregrine falcon is a crowd favorite as she speeds over and even between visitors to get to the lure—a leather object in the shape of a smaller bird that I swing during the flight show. Even after summer programming is done, the twice-daily Bird of Prey Encounter gives visitors a chance to learn about everything from the birds’ habitat and diet to their environmental challenges and adaptations. Sometimes wildlife staff uses the talk as a training session and visitors get the chance to see the birds fly, swooping right over their heads. Teaching visitors about the colorful and agile Aplomado falcon is a highlight of my day. He is an ambassador for his species and helps thousands of our visitors understand how they can help not only raptors, but all types of wildlife.
1:00 p.m.: I return to the Autzen Otter Exhibit once again, this time to give an educational talk to help visitors learn about the role otters play in our riverine ecosystems. Our youngest otter, Pitch, has been progressing every day in his training, so I decide to turn this Otter Encounter into a public training session. He’s becoming a pro at following his target stick (known as target training), a behavior that allows me to check his nails, paws, fur and more to ensure he stays fit and healthy. Head on over to the Museum and you might catch me and Pitch during a talk.
2:00 p.m.: All the animals at the Museum get a fresh, healthy diet prepared daily based on their nutritional requirements. We have herbivores who get fresh greens, veggies, seeds and nuts. Our carnivores love a variety of meat ranging from mice to pigeons. Clyde, the American badger, particularly loves rat, which of course is the smelliest food to chop up. Wildlife at the museum is fed throughout the day, so you might catch them enjoying a meal while you’re here.
3:00 p.m.: Between feedings, cleanings and talks is when I fit in training sessions. I head out with Clyde for a walk, which is a lot more than just exercise for the badger. A walk through the woods builds trust, reinforces learned behaviors and can help train new behaviors. The wildlife staff strives to make every interaction with the animals the most positive they can be, giving them a chance to indulge in their species-specific behaviors. Clyde and I make regular pit stops so he can sniff for squirrels under rocks or use his long claws to dig.
4:30 p.m.: Before heading home for the day, I do one last walk-through to make sure the animals have everything they need for the night ahead.
From shiitake mushroom ramen bowls to quinoa taco salads, these vegan dishes are innovative and delicious.
Vegan falafel at Kebaba. Photo by Alex Jordan
The days of vegans lurking in the shadows of organic health stores are in the past. Veganism has made its way into the mainstream and taken on a life of its own. New vegan restaurants have popped up around Bend and older restaurants have adapted to this trend with dishes much more creative than merely substituting tofu for meat. Whether you prefer shiitake mushroom ramen, collard green wraps or curry basil noodles, Bend has a little something for you.
Ramen 123: #2 Combo Ramen Bowl
Aside from the veggie Top Ramen, vegan ramen is not an easy find. Ramen is traditionally accompanied by pork, or some kind of meat, and an egg—that’s what makes the vegan ramen bowl at 123 Ramen such a treat. Located on 2nd Street in Midtown Bend, 123 Ramen opened almost two years ago and offers a diverse menu for ramen seekers in Bend. The vegan bowl features sake-braised shiitake mushrooms from Top Hat Mushrooms in the Willamette Valley and roasted cauliflower, grown a mere twelve miles away from Bend at Radical Roots Farm. The bowl comes with a house-made side of pickled veggies. Enjoy this steaming meal in the cozy, hip space.
Fix & Repeat: Chickpea and Millennial Toast
Artisanal toast has become a delicious staple of millennial culture, with restaurants popping up around the country devoted to the trend. The Millennial Toast at Fix & Repeat, one of Bend’s new plant-based restaurants, is one restaurant that has jumped on the bandwagon and offered its own take. Unlike many restaurants, Fix & Repeat, located in the Box Factory between downtown and the Old Mill District, does not skimp on the avocado. A hefty portion is topped with a simple pinch of garlic, olive oil, chili flake and sea salt. If you’re looking for a more filling meal, add the chickpea toast to your order. Styled as an open-faced deli sandwich, this toast boasts chickpeas, red peppers, celery, scallions, fennel, parsley, tarragon, dijon and soy-free veganaise all on a bed of arugula and sliced cucumber. Take your pick of bread from Sparrow Bakery’s miche bread or the Little Northern Bakehouse’s gluten-free bread.
Pure Joy Kitchen: Mexican Nacho Plate
Spice up your palate with the Mexican nacho plate at Pure Joy Kitchen. Opened last year, Pure Joy Kitchen has a menu of organic, plant-based foods serving vegan and gluten-free options. Unlike most nacho plates, drenched in pools of cheese, this plate features all vegan ingredients, but is delicious all the same. Sunflower refried “beans,” a meat substitute made from carrots, sun dried tomatoes and coconut sour “cream” sit on a bed of romaine lettuce and organic blue corn chips, topped with Mexican seasoning, guacamole and salsa. After this plate of nachos, you won’t be missing the cheese.
Salud Raw Foods: Island Wrap
Salud Raw Foods has some of the freshest and healthiest options in Bend. You may have a hard time choosing what to order at this raw, plant-based cafe and juice bar. The good news is, no matter what you order, you really can’t go wrong. Try out the island wrap, one of several collard greens wraps, consisting of bell peppers, carrots, red cabbage, mango, mint and cilantro, drizzled over with house-made ginger-cashew pesto and almond-pina drizzle. This surprising flavor combination makes for a fresh, crisp taste and is amazingly hearty. Served with a side of sweet potato chips, this dish is absolutely delectable.
Wild Rose Northern Thai Eats: Curry Basil Noodles
Wild Rose is one of the most popular restaurants in town, and for good reason. Don’t expect to find any pad thai or peanut sauce here; these are strictly Northern Thai meals, all derived from the owner’s family recipes. A popular menu item, the curry basil noodles are easily made vegan upon request. The dish is comprised of delicious wide rice noodles stir fried in a yellow curry seasoning with basil, tomato, onion, carrots, mushrooms and a choice of tofu or extra vegetables. Either choose to keep it mild or amp up the spice level and let this dish’s authentic flavor and the restaurant’s eclectic decorations transport you to the streets of Chiang Mai.
Kebaba: Falafel Sandwich
It is always a gamble ordering falafel. In the hands of a skilled cook, falafel is a revolutionary take on the garbanzo bean, deliciously breaded and crisp packed with flavor. Falafel done wrong, however, is near inedible; it can taste like a crunchy ball of sand that falls apart at the mere touch that no amount of tahini can resurrect. Needless to say, Kebaba, one of the few restaurants that brings traditional Middle Eastern cuisine to Central Oregon, offers a falafel sandwich cooked just right, not too dry or salty, two characteristics that falafel often falls victim to. It is rolled in homemade pita accompanied by a lathering of tahini sauce, lettuce, tomato, cucumber and pickled onion. The sandwich comes with your choice of zataar fries, soup, taboule or Israeli couscous salad.
Bethlyn’s Global Fusion: Thai Coconut Curry Noodle Bowl
A true melting pot for dishes from all different cultures, Bethlyn’s Global Fusion caters to both carnivores and omnivores alike. It is the kind of place a vegan can take their meat-eating family and not hear any complaints. A popular item on the menu, the Thai coconut curry noodle bowl is just one pick out of a handful of vegan options. The dish consists of rice noodles and seasonal vegetables, oftentimes broccoli, carrots and potatoes, doused in creamy coconut curry sauce. An assortment of bean sprouts, crushed peanuts and cilantro come sprinkled on top. With these fresh farm-to-table ingredients, Global Fusion is bound to please the entire family.
Plantd: Buddha Bowl
Plantd is the newest gluten-free, vegan and vegetarian cafe and marketplace in Bend, rooted in the former location of Fearless Bakery on Division Street. Opened by two nutritionists, Plantd offers clean and organic order in and grab-n-go meals. All ingredients are sourced from small and sustainable farms. The Buddha bowl incorporates a wealth of vibrantly-colored vegetables and is high in fiber, nutrient-dense and rich with a variety of minerals and vitamins. The dish has an abundance of seasonal veggies, such as roasted yams, beets and summer squash, housemade chickpeas, tricolor quinoa and Oregon blueberries, topped with sunflower seeds, micro sprouts, lemon parsley and tahini sauce.
Ma’ama Jama’s: Quinoa Taco Salad
Rooted in one of Bend’s new food truck pods the Podski, Ma’ama Jama’s is a plant-based smoothie and snack bar. The truck, now at its first permanent location, offers gluten, corn and soy-free options, as well as paleo-friendly dishes. The quinoa taco salad is a filling option for vegan and gluten-free diners. It includes seasoned quinoa, carrots, celery, onions, mushrooms, fresh greens, radish, scallions, raw carrot noodles and avocado topped with cilantro, siete grain-free chips and sunflower poblano sauce. Also try one of Ma’ama Jama’s hand-pressed coconut mylk smoothies.
CHOW: Warm Multigrain Salad
Breakfast is perhaps the most difficult meal of the day to eat vegan, with overpriced oatmeal and granola oftentimes being the only options. Nevertheless, CHOW, a popular breakfast destination, caters to vegan and vegetarians and has carefully crafted a menu that appeals to a wide variety of dietary needs. The warm multigrain salad, listed on the lunch menu, makes for a hearty vegan breakfast. It comes with organic farro, quinoa, spinach, black beans, tamari, lemon and garlic, but adding on roasted sweet potatoes and avocado will be well worth your while. Not all of the vegan options are listed on the menu, so make sure to check in with your server to hear all of the options.
Erika Nuetzel is a naturalist guide for Wanderlust Tours in Bend. Here’s how she spends her days at work.
Erika Nuetzel gets paid to be outside. She’s lived in Bend for the last year and a half and works as a naturalist guide for Wanderlust Tours. “Somehow I’ve convinced my boss to pay me to do the things I’d like to be doing in my own time,” said Nuetzel. Here’s how she spends a normal working day in Bend.
6:00 a.m.: I wake up, and take my dog, Zephyr, for a walk. After heating up some veggie hash for breakfast, I consider my options for a morning activity. Bend has so many amazing things to do, it’s always easy to squeeze something in before work!
Erika and her dog climbing at Smith Rock.
Noon: After spending the morning running Big Eddy laps, hiking, or climbing out at Smith Rock, I head into work around noon to prep for my upcoming afternoon and night trips. As naturalist guides, our schedules vary from day to day. My afternoon at work could involve some hiking around Newberry National Volcanic Monument, or spelunking through an 80,000 year old lava tube cave. Today, I’ll be running an afternoon kayak trip and a moonlight canoe tour. Now that I know my schedule, I load up the van and the kayak trailer with the gear I need, and head over to pick the guests up at the Wanderlust Tours office.
Erika cleaning kayaks at Wanderlust Tours.
1:30 p.m. I meet my group of ten adventurous guests and we embark on the journey to Paulina Lake. A forty-minute drive through the Deschutes National Forest provides the perfect opportunity to discuss the natural and cultural history of this part of the world. We pass through the second-growth Ponderosa pine forest in the high desert and climb higher into the old-growth subalpine ecosystem, all the while talking about the 100-plus species of animals, plants, and trees that live here, and how people have moved throughout the land over the last 15,000 years.
2:20 p.m. Once we arrive to the boat ramp, we set up the kayaks and paddles before launching off. Afternoons at Paulina are the best time for kayak trips. We cross the lake to take a dip into the hot springs that line the north shore, then we jump in the clear waters of the lake. After our swim, we pause a while on a beach overlooking the Big Obsidian Flow and Paulina Peak. From this vantage point, you can really tell we’re kayaking in a collapsed volcanic caldera! Osprey fly high overhead and take turns plunging into the lake as they dive for an afternoon snack in front of our boats.
5:30 p.m. The afternoon passes much too quickly. Before long the tour is over and we’re heading back to the Wanderlust Tours office. After parting ways with my afternoon guests, it’s time for me to go to the Wanderlust Tours warehouse to get ready for the night trip. Since the gloomy smoke from far-off wildfires has finally cleared, I’ve decided I’ll take my group up Cascade Lakes Highway to Hosmer Lake to paddle beneath the stars. I prepare the canoes for the night trip at our shop by loading them onto the trailer, and loading the van with life jackets and headlamps.
7:45 p.m. We arrive at the boat ramp as the sun sets behind us, illuminating South Sister, Broken Top and Mount Bachelor with the glorious alpenglow of the late summer evenings. Once I’ve explained the mechanics of canoeing to the guests, we set off on the lake. We’re just about the only boats on the water. At this time of day, most people have gone home, and the nocturnal animals come out in their place. A bald eagle is perched on the third story of a subalpine fir, so we pause our paddling to observe him. Soon enough he makes a move, diving into the lake to pluck an Atlantic salmon out for dinner. We leave him to enjoy his bounty in peace and continue paddling as the sky darkens.
9:00 p.m. Bats and nighthawks swirl around our boats as we continue down the main channel towards the north end of the lake. We pass a beaver swimming stealthily across the lake towards her lodge in the tule reeds. As the sky darkens, Venus, Jupiter and Mars appear on the horizon, and the Summer Triangle is the first asterism to emerge. Pretty soon, the entire night sky is speckled with stars that make up various constellations, satellites flying in outer space, and the Milky Way shines brightly through the Summer Triangle.
9:45 p.m. At this point, we group all the canoes together, and I pass out delicious Sparrow Bakery desserts and homemade hot cocoa to all guests, and a Deschutes Brewery beer to those over 21. I share the Greek myths behind the constellations above us as guests enjoy their goodies, and we discuss nighttime ecology of the area. Again, nature provides an incredible backdrop to these stories and although I wish we could sit among the stars for hours, we eventually make it back to Bend.
11:00 p.m. I say farewell to my guests and drive the Wanderlust Tours van back to the warehouse. While enjoying my shift beer, I listen to music and clean out the van and canoes. Then, I head home to play with Zephy, eat some food, and pass out… ready to do it all again tomorrow!
Revitalize your soul in these mineral-rich pools. With the weather cooling off but winter sports not yet in full swing, there is no better way to embrace the changing of the seasons than soaking in hot springs. Opt to hike to rock-lined pools along rivers and lakes or spoil yourself with resort-style bathhouses that are scattered through Oregon. Treat your sore muscles and revitalize your soul in these mineral-rich pools all within a day-trip from Bend.
Paulina Hot Springs
Located off a spur on the Paulina Lake Loop Trail, the springs are primitive at best. If the lake shore waters are high, the pools may be washed out. However, when the waters are just right, hot springs may be dug out of coarse beach sand and reinforced with found wood and stones. Because these pools are not commercial, visitors often bring a shovel, such as a collapsible avalanche shovel, to re-dig one of the several pools. Although the pools might be crude, the view is magnificent. Paulina Peak towers at nearly 8,000 feet tall. Its center crater is infilled with Paulina Lake’s waters that sweep across the horizon line and counterpoint sunsets that light up the sky like pink cotton candy.
For lodging, or to rent a canoe for paddling across the lake to the edge of the hot springs, stop in at Paulina Lodge. Open in the high season, May through September, the lodge offers everything from stays in its cabins and intimate A-frames to lunch and dinner dining. Look forward to sampling the chef’s famous prime rib, homemade cobblers and handcrafted cocktails. Reservations are required. See paulinalakelodge.com.
Newberry National Volcanic Monument, operated by Deschutes National Forest, gained its monument status in 1990 as a result of the area’s outstanding volcanic features. Obsidian flows, alpine lakes, fissures, cavernous lava tubes, a lava cast forest, and a massive caldera (or collapsed volcano) are all natural wonders to experience en route to Paulina Lake Hot Springs.
Driving time from Bend: 1 hour Open: May to September
East Lake
If you think Paulina Lake’s hot springs are primitive, you have not seen the springs at East Lake, Paulina’s neighbor in the Newberry Crater. These springs are great for those tired of the Paulina Lake crowds. There are trade-offs—unlike those at Paulina, these springs smell heavily of sulfur and can reach temperatures up to 120 degrees. They can be accessed by a short quarter-mile trail from the hot springs boat ramp, walking until reaching bubbling water. On a typical snow year, these springs usually are submerged in the lake until late July, so are best-visited in the late summer or fall.
Driving time from Bend: 1 hour Open: May to September, but best starting in late summer when water level is low
Bigelow/Deer Creek
The quiet neighbor of Belknap Hot Springs, Deer Creek, also known as Bigelow Hot Springs, is one small pool tucked on the banks of the McKenzie River in the Willamette National Forest. This peaceful pool is sectioned off from the river by rocks, with hot spring water flowing from the pool’s bottom. Its close proximity to the river cools it off too much in the winter, but makes it the perfect soaking temperature in the summer and fall. It can only handle a few guests at a time, so consider going on a weekday or prepare for a possible wait. Even with its close proximity to the highway, clothing is optional in typical Oregon hot springs fashion.
Driving time from Bend: 1 hour 20 minutes Parking and fees: Free to soak, Turn onto Deer Creek Road, cross a bridge over the McKenzie River to park Open: Year-round, but can be too cold in winter months
Crystal Crane
Hidden in a high-desert oasis twenty-five miles east of Burns lies this magical hot springs resort. A longtime hub for dirty travelers, Crystal Crane hot springs consists of a 101-degree mineral hot springs pond and several private soaking tubs, rentable by the hour. Plan a visit on a clear night and stargaze while you soak. With its close proximity to Steens Mountain, the Ochocos and the Malheur National Wildlife Refuge, pitch a tent nearby or choose one of the resort’s unique overnight options, including a teepee with a private hot tub.
Driving time from Bend: 2 hours and 30 minutes Open: Year-round, 9 a.m. to 9 p.m.
Summer Lake
Southeast of Bend in the Oregon Outback amidst a vast high desert landscape awaits this 145-acre hot spring resort, Summer Lake. On your drive out, watch for birds of prey, antelope, deer and other wildlife. Stop at quirky and charming homegrown Oregon outposts to re-supply beverages, firewood and gasoline. If you have time, take a small detour to Fort Rock to see the remnants of a tuff ring, a volcano that erupted under a shallow sea. Fort Rock is also home to an ancient reed sandal mass storage cache, which has helped anthropologists pinpoint a date indicating the earliest known people in the region. On the outskirts of the municipality, look for a smattering of walk-through historic ghost town buildings.
When you arrive at Summer Lake, enjoy the four developed outdoor hot pools with 360-degree views of the desert, forest, sky and mountain peaks, as well as the largest pool, located inside a bathhouse. These springs have been flowing for thousands of years, traveling to the surface through a natural fault to almost a mile underground, and were unknown until hundreds of feet of lake water receded. Established in 1988, the resort features a bathhouse and outdoor hot springs-fed rock pools, all between 106 and 118 degrees. Either travel down for the day or choose from a variety of accommodations, ranging with low-price tent campsites to geothermally-heated cabins or guesthouses. Summer Lake is also known for hosting pop-up music festivals and retreats of all kinds.
To find RV or van-specific parking, hookups and amenities, Ana Reservoir Park and Lonepine RV Park are choice picks. After a detoxifying dip in the hot springs for registered guests of the lodge, travel 20 minutes north to the town of Summer Lake and visit The Flyway at The Lodge at Summer Lake for casual American food. See summerlakehotsprings.com.
Driving time from Bend: 2 hours Open: Year-round, 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. for day use, open 24 hours for overnight guests
McCredie Hot Springs, once a historic resort, consists of several undeveloped pools on either side of Salt Creek off of Highway 58 near Oakridge. These springs are great for large and small groups alike, with the largest “party” pool being 30 feet wide and the smallest being only a yard in diameter. The large pool is a short walk from the main parking area between milepost 45 and 46 on Highway 58. If looking to reach the smaller, more secluded pools and avoid crossing the two-foot-deep creek, turn down Shady Gap Road, turn right at both splits and park at the first wide spot. From here, a mile-long hike through ferns, moss and wildflowers leads down to the pools. Since these pools are relatively isolated, prepare to be in the midst of naked hippies or become one yourself.
Driving time from Bend: 1 hour 30 minutes Distance: If accessing the main pool, just a short walk down to the river from the main parking area. If visiting southside pools, prepare to hike a 0.9 mile out and back trail down to the springs. Parking and fees: Free to soak, park between milepost 45 and 46 on Highway 58 next to McCredie Station Road near Blue Pool Campground for main pool. For southside pools, turn down Shady Gap Road, turn right at both splits and park at the first wide spot. Open: Year-round
Bagby Hot Springs is nestled deep within the Mount Hood National Forest on the Collawash River. An easy 1.7-mile hike through lush forest leads to the bathhouse, consisting of cedar wood tubs in both private and community settings. The spring water is 138 degrees Fahrenheit but can be cooled off with water from the river below. Unlike most Oregon hot springs, nudity is not allowed (but that has never stopped Oregonians before). Because of its close proximity to both Portland and Salem, these hot springs are highly frequented and often mistreated, so make sure to pack out your litter and be respectful of your surroundings.
Driving time from Bend: 3 hours Distance: 3.4 miles roundtrip from Bagby Trailhead Open: Year-round, but road not maintained in winter months
Modern and antique, private and public, inside and outside, sleek and organic. A Bend couple got it all in a home design that relied on a little bit of clever artistry.
Nancy Burfiend and Joey Reiter had been visiting friends in Central Oregon for twenty years before they decided to buy a lot in western Bend that boasted an unobstructed view of the Cascades and ready access to mountain biking trails.
Based in Seattle, the couple interviewed several architects before selecting DeForest Architects, also of Seattle, to design their two bedroom, two-and-a-half bath home. Burfiend, owner of NB Design Group, had worked with principal John DeForest on other projects, and Reiter, whose professional experience was that of a financial consultant rather than as a designer, readily responded to the firm’s clear presentation and communicative approach to working with clients and contractors.
Before deciding the practical specifics of the layout, DeForest assigned the couple “homework” so he could better understand the spaces in which they felt most comfortable, and then used block models to show them how rooms could flow into each other and integrate the criteria that had been set forth.
The team then brought on Young Construction in Bend as the general contractor to build the 2,600-square-foot home. The company had already built two nearby homes and was well acquainted with the requirements of the neighborhood and the demands of Bend’s climate.
“While there are more and more tools that break down the distance between us and a site, to have Doug [Young], who already had established relationships with city agencies and subcontractors, and who could also give us experienced information on Bend’s climate, the neighborhood and appropriate construction materials, was invaluable,” DeForest said.
The finished modern home is stained in two charcoal tones reminiscent of aged wood so that it sits “lightly on the land,” explained Burfiend, who handled the interior design elements of the project. The integration of inside and out starts at the approach to the home, where guests walk a route to the front door that abuts an exposed interior courtyard. Inside the house, the use of the exterior colors continues where the palette is based on gray, white and natural tones with the occasional burst of chartreuse green.
To accommodate the need for public and private areas and to ensure adequate storage and space for such necessities of living as books, records and cherished found objects, DeForest used hiding panels and doors to configure rooms and camouflage shelving. Views that stretch across public rooms and down hallways to reinforce the expansiveness of the space can also be shortened by a series of sliding doors used singly or in multiples to provide privacy for the homeowners and guests. The wall between the living area and master bedroom, for example, can show or hide a fireplace, television, storage and bedroom spaces behind its gliding panels. “The house,” explained DeForest, “is built like a Swiss Army Knife.”
Burfiend acknowledged that the toughest part of the project might have been acting as both designer and client. So she relied upon her staff to remind her of the calm simplicity that the couple was striving for. As for Reiter who found the design and building process fascinating, “It amazes me that I get to wake up on this property every morning,” she said. “It’s just a fabulous home.”
Brad Tisdel talked with Teafly about the importance of discovering music at a young age and how Sisters has cultivated its arts community.
Brad Tisdel grew up outside of Portland, lived around the West, and moved to Sisters in the mid-90s after entering the Sisters Folk Festival songwriting competition. In 2000 he started the Americana Project, a music program in Sisters’ school district. He’s currently the creative director of the Sisters Folk Festival and books the talent that brings people from all over the country to the small town for the annual event.
On Discovering Music
I was a choir kid. I always sang and had a real passion for singing. In college, it seemed like everybody could play a little bit of guitar, and so I thought, “How hard can that be?” When I got to write songs and play guitar, I realized that was what I wanted to do. After doing it for about ten years, though, I realized that not only is it a hard road, but also I wasn’t sure how committed I was for my whole life. I wanted to be involved in the folk music community, but not necessarily just as a musician. In 1995, I was living in Seattle and I entered the Sisters Folk Festival songwriting competition. I was a finalist two years in a row for that. Back then, the festival was still small. I lost that year to Dave Carter, who is a fantastic songwriter.
On Bringing Music to Schools
In 2000, the Folk Festival asked me to start the Americana Project, a collaboration between the Sisters Folk Festival and the Sisters School District. A lot of big picture stuff is taught through the lens of art and music education. I’m really proud of the Americana Luthier program as well. When we talk about carrying on age old tradition, I think the fact that young people have the opportunity to build ukuleles and guitars in their high school is a shining example of the uniqueness of the opportunity to grow up here. Other school districts have cut their music and arts because they could not figure out how to fund them. Here, we made it a focal point.
On The Next Generation
From the beginning, for me as a songwriter, it was always important that kids learn how to write and perform original music. As a compliment to that, they also need to know who they are, what their sense of place is, who they are becoming and how that connects with their community. Having the language, as an artist and a poet, of composition, line, space, form, harmony, and melody in visual art and music is immensely valuable, even if students do not become artists themselves. We want young people to understand it is important to have that value in their life.
On the Arts in Sisters
The town has embraced Sisters as an arts community for a long time now, but it wasn’t always valued. I think Kathy Deggendorfer and others have done amazing things in changing that. I’ve seen the strength of the galleries grow, and the recognition of Sisters as an arts town is growing. Between the Americana Project, Sisters Arts Association, Hood River Arts, the Quilt Show and even the Rodeo, there is a cultural identity around these events that has always been a part of Sisters.
On Experiencing the Moments
The Sisters Folk Festival is overlooked as an event for world class music. Don’t come for a day. You can’t capture all of what is going on in just one night. It is interesting to find something you didn’t expect that you love. It’s really a place where you come for one artist but you discover three others. For me, watching the festival unfold and connecting with community is always super special. One of my favorite things is when there are musical moments that could only happen at that venue on that night because of a number of different things, intentional or not. You can see the artists eating dinner together in the restaurants through the weekend. There is always a late night jam on Saturday night at Angeline’s and those have incredible moments. I look around and what I see on people’s faces is joy, beauty, excitement and connection. That’s what it’s really about.
Beginning with skills passed on from his grandfather, Bend furniture maker Daniel Laudenslager of dl_dzine keeps mid-century style alive.
When one thinks of plywood, beauty isn’t usually the first thing that comes to mind. But the work of Bend-based furniture designer Daniel Laudenslager can turn that concept upside down.
Laudenslager’s tables and cabinetry often include a layered edge grain plywood, cut at an angle and varnished to a high shine. The result reveals the plywood’s contrasting layers of brown, dark brown and white wood, eliciting texture, color and style on the edges of the finished piece. The occasional imperfection that might emerge from the plywood’s layers only makes the furniture even more interesting.
Plywood isn’t Laudenslager’s only medium, nor are tables and cabinets his only product. His design interests could be defined partly by their diversity. Most of his work is custom furniture, mainly privately commissioned, under the umbrella of his company dl_dzine. Dining tables, credenzas, armoires and cabinetry are his specialties, but he also created a garden planter, a tool to treat plantar fasciitis, fireplace facades and more. Throughout, his work emanates a classic, sleek, high-style aesthetic.
“I consider my style to be somewhat contemporary and very organic,” he said.
A signature Daniel Laudenslager piece sits in Legum Design in Bend.
Laudenslager calls his works “functional art,” and loves the process of dreaming up a design, figuring out how to make it work and creating an object that will be appreciated for its beauty and used for its function.
“I love gathering people’s ideas and forming them into a piece they will love for years after.”
Originally from Pennsylvania, Laudenslager, 43, earned a degree in architecture from Kent State University in Ohio and moved with his family to Bend sixteen years ago. His interest in functional design germinated much earlier, when he was a young child.
“My grandfather built furniture and did upholstery. He made work benches for me when I was small, first offering me plastic tools to work with alongside him. Eventually, he made me three generations of work benches, some I still use today. He also passed down tooling that I also still use today.”
That legacy contributes to the traditional style in his work.
“I use a lot of wood, glass and steel,” he explained. “I incorporate a lot of traditional methods, such as joinery as opposed to fasteners.”
A signature Laudenslager piece resides at Legum Design in Bend. The large boardroom table sits on a blade steel base, fabricated through his partnership with Bend company Modern Fab.
“It’s very heavy steel designed to feel light,” he said.
The top is layered edge grain plywood, inset with a specific design element.
“I’m a big ocean person,” Laudenslager said. “Surfing is my passion. Down the center of this table runs a spine, to replicate surfboard style.”
A recent table is designed with the local brewpub scene in mind. The project’s inspiration came by way of Laudenslager’s 12-year-old daughter, who studied traditional Japanese origami folding. Laudenslager watched her at work and decided to “fold” a table base.
“The rectangular steel base is a replication of the angles and structures you can get with paper folding,” he said. The top is solid white oak inlaid with a functional steel channel. “The channel is designed to accept inserts, like a lazy Susan or a beer tasting tray.”
Laudenslager’s cabinetry was on display at the Tour of Homes in July. Scandinavian high-gloss laminate in white oak was paired with a quartz countertop in a clean modern style, all Laudenslager’s design and produced by Bladt Woodworking of Bend.
“I love to collaborate with other artists,” he said. “Seeing the puzzle pieces come together and bringing a project to fruition is very satisfying.”
Bend’s Alice Drobna has rewritten the ultra-endurance record book—and she’s not done yet.
Photo by Linda Guerrette Photography
Alice Drobna, an understated 43-year-old graphic designer for Hydro Flask, is arguably the nation’s toughest long-distance mountain biker. She is certainly the most dedicated. After completing five 100-mile mountain bike races in 2013, she still wanted more. As in, more miles, more solitude and more challenge. Drobna is the first—and still only—woman to complete the trifecta of ultra-endurance mountain biking, known as the Triple Crown Challenge of bikepacking. She’s also the only mountain biker, man or woman, to do so on a singlespeed.
To claim this rare distinction, riders must finish all three of the sport’s classic dirt events, the Arizona Trail, Tour Divide and Colorado Trail, in the same season. This is a Herculean challenge in terms of total time in the saddle as well as the short recovery time between races.
The 750-mile Arizona Trail takes place in April; the Tour Divide, which spans 2,745 miles from Alberta to New Mexico, begins in June. Approximately three weeks after finishing the Tour Divide, would-be Challenge finishers must complete an arduous 500-mile journey gaining 70,000 feet through the Rockies from Durango to Denver.
Drobna’s record-setting time set in 2015 still stands at thirty-six days, six hours and fifty-six minutes, in which she rode 4,080 miles and logged 380,000 feet of climbing. (That’s about 10,500 feet of elevation gain per day, or riding from Bend to Mount Bachelor three-and-a-half times). She joined nine men on the list of cyclists who have accomplished this brutal feat.
Born in what was then Czechoslovakia, Drobna came to the United States in the early 1990s to attend college. She stayed, gained citizenship and bounced around the country before landing in Park City, Utah. There she met Ross Windsor, her longtime boyfriend (and three-time U.S. trials bike champion) who in 2008 introduced her to mountain biking on a single-geared bike.
“Riding singlespeed just made perfect sense to me,” she said. “It was quiet and light, and I got strong really quick.”
Her mountain bike racing career began with cross-country and then marathon distances, and she won a national title in 2011. She followed that up by completing five 100-mile mountain bike races in 2013. Still, Drobna wanted a steeper challenge.
Drobna a few hundred feet below the South Rim in Grand Canyon on the Arizona Trail Race in 2018.
“I found that I felt more at peace going slower and farther,” she reflected. “What I really like is being all by myself. For some reason, I was still searching for something longer. That’s when I started researching the Tour Divide. I thought, ‘If I can ride 100 miles, why not try to ride 100 miles every day?’”
Competitive bikepackers race alone and unsupported. They carry a GPS device to navigate the route, and to keep all competitors honest, along with their own food, water, tools and gear for camping. It’s this self-reliance and solitude that attracts Drobna to these extreme events. That, and the simplicity of it.
“You can go days without seeing any people,” she explained. “It’s like you almost live a different life. You leave everything you do at home behind—responsibilities, relationships, work. It’s just you and the trail and the bike. You’re in the moment all the time.”
In bikepacking events, Drobna’s custom-built titanium singlespeed—carrying food, water and gear—weighs in at forty pounds. She typically pedals sixteen to seventeen hours each day, including a few hours in the dark. Depending on the trail, she might cover 170 miles during that time. If the route is particularly steep or technical, or requires more hiking, she might log only eighty—all the while burning 10,000 to 12,000 calories.
Since her record-setting season in 2015, Drobna continues to enter long-distance bikepacking events but with less frequency. Despite vowing not to, she’s been back to the Arizona Trail twice, with the aim of besting her 2015 record time. This past April, she won the female division again, but failed to beat her record-setting time.
Of all the racing she’s done, Drobna describes the Arizona Trail ride, which stretches from the Arizona-Mexico border to the Utah state line, as the “most brutal.” Part of the difficulty is the twenty-four-mile portage across the Grand Canyon, which requires riders to disassemble their bike, affix it to a pack, and trek down and then back up the canyon wall.
That, and the weather. “There’s no shade, and there’s constant sun beating down on you,” she recounted of the 2018 race. “I was having a hard time staying hydrated. I was drinking seven liters a day [more than three-and-a-half gallons], and it wasn’t enough. When I climbed out of the heat into Flagstaff, the coldest night was fifteen degrees with fifty mile per hour winds. I was worried about being hypothermic. It was incredibly brutal conditions, from one extreme to the next.”
Despite this, Drobna now holds the two fastest finish times among women.
“One of the things that draws me to [ultra-endurance cycling] is it’s never the same,” she explained. “One time I ran into three bears in two days, I almost hit a moose during a night ride, almost kicked a rattlesnake with my pedal. You just never know what’s going to happen, and that’s exciting to me.”
For the remainder of this year, Drobna is taking a break from racing, but hasn’t written off resuming her ultra-endurance career. “It’s crazy hard,” she said, which seems like a gross understatement. And then added: “But you can’t get mad when you’re out there, because you’re in the most beautiful place.”
Central Oregon’s Rastovich Farm helped to pioneer a profitable relationship with local breweries.
Rob Rastovich looked proudly over his east Bend farm, soaking it in before another busy day with his cattle. His morning often starts before sun up and ends well after the sun has set. It’s a hardworking lifestyle that he has known well for much of his fifty-plus years.
The Rastovich Family Farm traces its roots back to 1919 with his grandparents, who homesteaded this hardscrabble land. This makes the property one of the oldest farms in Central Oregon still being farmed by its original homesteading family.
For his part, Rastovich has helped transform this nearly century-old farm, bringing it into the 21st century by implementing new technologies and using a sustainable food source for the cattle that is plentiful in beer-loving Bend. “Let the cows eat craft beer,” joked Rastovich, who collects the spent grains, known as mash, from local breweries. “That’s why we call it barley beef, or beer beef.”
The cows eat mash two times a day, five days a week, plus some hay and grass grazing. Rastovich and his ranch hands won’t divulge their feeding ratio “recipe” of mash to hay to grass, though Rastovich said, economically speaking, the farm spends 30 to 40 percent less on hay because of the mash.
It’s a win-win situation for both the ranchers and the breweries. An added synergy, Rastovich collects the spent water from the local breweries (as it can’t legally be put back into the water system without extensive and costly treatment) and uses it to irrigate his fields.
“Because the spent brewery water has a high content of nitrogen in it, we don’t have to use much fertilizer, either,” explained Rastovich. “We get these byproducts from seven local breweries free of charge, but I had to hire a full-time employee to pick up the mash.”
Rob Rastovich
Rastovich isn’t the only ranch in Oregon working with breweries on a mash-to-meat program, local Borlen Beef and Pioneer Farms are also working with brewers. But it is one of the largest, with 200 acres—and as many head of Angus-Hereford cattle spread among his farm, his cousins’ and his uncle’s farms. All the cows are well fed, and since they’re eating beer mash, Rastovich jokes they’re also happy cows, very happy. Rastovich walked over to the corral where some cows were eating mash and pointed to the big steers that were heading to the butcher the following week.
“Once the cows are fattened up, they’re butchered and brought back and sold as hamburger, steaks, pot roast and prime rib to Sunriver, Deschutes Brewery, Silver Moon and many of the other brewery restaurants that gave us the mash in the first place,” said Rastovich, who also sells his beef direct to consumer. “It’s the ultimate recycling program. Support your local farmers and drink beer.”
He said that his beef “has a different and special taste” when compared to corn or grass-fed beef. The churn is also much faster than with grass-fed beef. Rastovich butchers at least three cows every week. Each harvest produces 1,200 to 1,400 pounds of ground beef, along with another 800-900 pounds of other cuts, known as locker beef. The efficiency isn’t an accident.
As his father was aging, Rastovich, who holds a master’s degree in computer programming, came back from Silicon Valley to farm full time in 2006. He likes to say that he’s a better programmer than he is a farmer, but he’s brought some of his high-tech knowhow to the family business, inserting RFID microchips in all his cows’ ears so he can track them via computer.
“My goal is to make the animals as stress-free as possible and make the cowboys as safe as possible,” explained Rastovich, who has designed special corrals with a series of automated gates that respond to the RFID chips to help cull the herd. “This eliminates herding and puts less stress on the cow, which makes my beef taste better because you don’t get those stress hormones in the meat.”
Long gone are the days when his grandfather would curse the land. “I remember my grandfather used to say, ‘There’s just a bunch of lava rocks and dust that the wind blew in, and we call it farming,’” recalled Rastovich.
Despite the many lean decades of the past, Rastovich’s creative thinking has turned this nearly century-old farm smoothly into the 21st century. In the end though, it’s still ranching—a volatile vocation that is dependent on good weather, futures markets, hard work and luck.
“I love this land. You’d have to sell this farm over my dead body,” said Rastovich. “Trust me, it wasn’t always easy growing up here. I was the son of a hay farmer, who had hay fever, and yet here I am.”
Casad Family Farms is changing the idea of a sustainable cut of meat.
When he managed Juniper Jungle Farm in Tumalo, Chris Casad would lift a single potato up to ten times before the spud made it into a consumer’s hands. At that small farm, working on a manual scale, he said his team felt like ants working overtime shifts.
It’s one of the reasons that Casad had dreams of farming on a larger, more efficient scale.
“Now we’re starting to become sophisticated ants,” he said from the hay barn of his new property, Casad Family Farm. He gestured toward the tractors, conveyor belt and trucks that are employed in his current operation, which has helped him boost output without sacrificing a commitment to sustainable harvests. The equipment helped the farm produce ninety tons of potatoes this year, with the majority going to supply French fries for salt-craving beer drinkers at Deschutes Brewery, his primary wholesale client.
Ag of the Middle
Casad Family Farm sits in what locals call “the plains” between Madras and Warm Springs, a location that is 1,200 feet lower than the Tumalo farm. The elevation drop was strategic, lengthening the growing season. Down there in the plains, most farms sprawl more than 1,000 acres. Casad Family Farm, at eighty-five acres, falls into a disappearing sector of midscale farms that are neither agricultural commodity scale nor the direct to consumer model. Part of the reason for this vanishing middle is lack of affordability. Casad’s parents made his purchase possible by selling their Bend home to invest in the business, prompting the Casad Family Farm name to reflect the multigenerational venture.
Casad used his seven years of farming experience to make this shift from boutique to midsize farming. It was a calculated risk based on the belief that a blend between wholesale and direct to consumer sales will be profitable if done with care. The security of having a major Deschutes Brewery contract allows Casad to continue farming in line with his principles: Grow organically. Respect the soil. Give farm animals a free range and stress-free life.
Casad’s fiancé, Cate Havstad, took the leap with him. She now puts her successful custom hat making business, Havstad Hat Company, on hold during the agricultural high season to focus on working the land. There among the high desert landscape, Havstad said she enjoys the grounding physicality of the work. The setting even inspired a line of Havstad hats dyed with natural flora found in the plains, such as sage.
Waste Not, Want Not
Each time Casad establishes a ten-to-twenty-acre plot for an annual crop (such as garlic or potatoes) on the property, the plot joins the larger rotation cycle, which avoids the stress created by the standard monoculture approach where one or two crops are rotated annually. “In an organic system, we need five to seven years after harvest to rotate each plot until we plant that crop again,” said Cascad.
Between crop cycles, the farm’s hogs and cattle roam the plots, promoting soil fertility. Growing cover crops, such as mustard, further improves soil health. When tilled into the soil, the cover crops act as an organic sterilizer, neutralizing fungal diseases that are naturally produced in soil. Perennials, such as hay, feed the livestock and provide another revenue stream. Casad Family Farm is one of the only farms in Central Oregon selling USDA-certified organic hay.
“There’s no waste ever here and that is important,” Casad said. “Not having to import, and feeding animals only with grass and hay from the farm, are fundamentals of biodynamic practices.”
All pigs and cows are slaughtered onsite, something that prevents Casad from obtaining a USDA label for the meat since there is no USDA-certified mobile butcher in Central Oregon. That’s a trade-off that they are willing to make to honor the principle of keeping their livestock on the farm for the animal’s entire life cycle.
“Our hogs and cattle live in a pasture their whole lives, roaming free and eating organic, pesticide-free food,” Havstad said. “They shouldn’t then be shoved in a trailer and sent down a highway for slaughter. Instead, they are just living another peaceful day in their life and it happens to end. It’s just the right way to farm.”
Building the Market
After all the planting and tending and harvesting, what’s left is just a matter of bringing the food to the people. Local distributor Agricultural Connections has helped connect mid-size farmers with restaurants and consumers. Parker Vaughn at Jackson’s Corner, Anna Witham at 1-2-3 Ramen and Brian Kerr from Deschutes Brewery are members of a growing contingent of local chefs who Havstad said are committed to bringing local foods to a larger audience. What is still lacking are larger-scale cold storage and distribution methods to supply bigger institutions, such as hospitals and schools, with local food.
Organizations like the Central Oregon Intergovernmental Council are working on solutions that will address some of these infrastructure deficiencies. In the meantime, farmers like Casad are continuing to develop their niche at a sustainable scale based on an increasing demand for locally grown food.
“Mills and processing facilities are gone here,” said Casad. “We can practice good regenerative farming and create a good product, but the system in which you sell your product needs to help get it into the hands of local people.” Whether that happens this year, next year or sometime farther down the road, isn’t yet clear. What is clear is that the seeds of sustainable harvest have been planted at Casad and across Central Oregon.
Four sushi-inspired dishes offer very different interpretations of the Japanese classic.
The high desert may not seem like the best place to go searching for sushi rolls and Asian seafood dishes. But there is a surprisingly robust range of fresh seafood offered around the area, particularly in Bend, where local chefs have embraced the artform and given it their own twist. From fine dining to food carts, restaurants take advantage of the area’s relative proximity to the Pacific and the easy access to fresh seafood. Add in a public willing and ready to indulge in bold and experimental dishes and you have perfect stage for raw innovation.
Bibimbap | 5 Fusion Sushi & Bar
The super-heated black stone pot is set before you at 5 Fusion Sushi & Bar, cradling sizzling rice, spicy, crunchy kimchi, dark, rich, pork short-rib and a quivering, perfectly cooked 62-degree egg. Taste with your eyes first, admiring the pleasing arrangement of elements in the rustic crater. Then plunge your chopsticks into the center and stir, unleashing the velvety, buttery yolk, letting it run over its fragile, gelatinous white, bathing the tart, fermented napa cabbage and Korean radishes enveloped in chili, scallions, garlic and ginger. This is bibimbap. It may sound like jazz (BEE-bim-bap), but the flavors are symphonic. This South Korean specialty has been hailed by gastronomes as one of the world’s most delicious foods.
Broiled Tomato | Kanpai
When is a tomato not a tomato? When it’s the broiled tomato created by Justin Cook, owner of Kanpai. It’s one of his riffs on nigiri, which is typically a pinky-finger long slice of raw fish atop a hand-formed pillow of sticky rice. In his iteration, delicate, translucent pink slices of tuna hug a miniature globe of rice crowned with chopped, broiled scallop, minced scallions and anointed with ponzu, the tart, citrusy, mahogany sauce and a Japanese cuisine mainstay. This irreverence is in good company with more than a dozen other ingenious creations, from the Steak N Eggs, with seared filet mignon around rice, topped with a quail egg yolk, wasabi pepper aioli and pickled red onions, to the Godzilla Roll, with tempura zucchini, cucumber and shiitake mushrooms beneath avocado and shoestring potatoes.
U of O Roll | CHI Chinese & Sushi Bar
When the U of O roll arrives at CHI, the golden yuzu tobiko (tiny flying fish roe) atop the creation presented on a bright, deep green banana leaf certainly evokes team spirit. Fortunately, there’s much more to this than just a rah-rah gimmick. The tempura shrimp, cucumber, avocado, spicy poke tuna, razor-thin avocado slices, hamachi (Japanese amberjack or yellowtail), thick, sweet unagi sauce and sesame seeds harmonize to create lovely umami savoriness. The tempura offers a flaky crunch as the tobiko lends a mild briny finish. To be politic, the hyper-local restaurant, which has named many of its dishes after local businesses, also offers the OSU roll of spicy poke, avocado, cucumber, unagi, salmon and sesame seeds. Order them both and host your gastro civil war.
Kobayashi Dog | Ronin Sushi
JapAm or AmeriZen? However you choose to think about it, Ronin food truck’s take on the Kobayashi Dog is the best East-West cultural mashup since Uma Thurman picked up a Samurai sword and zipped into yellow jumpsuit in “Kill Bill.” The bacon wrapped all-beef hot dog is cloaked with crunchy, tangy kimchi (a fermented spicy cabbage, and in this case, a kind of Japanese stand-in for sauerkraut). The subtly sweet flavors of wakame seaweed mingle with the tart-sweet pickles as if doing a Kabuki dance. Tonkatsu dragon mayo leverages Sriracha for a smoky, tangy Judo-kick with heat not found in a typical American barbecue sauce. With fresh mixed greens on a toasted pub bun this dish wins on multiple levels—complex and inventive enough to please the sushi aficionado, and a gateway to a raw-fish-flavored cuisine for those who wouldn’t dream of eating raw fish. At a price of $6, you don’t have to be an emperor to partake.
BendX Bootcamp wants to see more female-led startups in Bend.
Christine Callahan (left) and Talena Barker (right)
Bend is an outdoors mecca, but it’s also a playground of sorts for entrepreneurs with fresh ideas. Recently launched, BendX Bootcamp is an inclusive women’s entrepreneurship program that helps women harness opportunity and put ideas into action. Talena Barker, CEO and founder of Mission Limelight, and Christine Callahan, CEO and founder of Ella & Oak, joined forces to launch this program and share their valuable expertise as early-stage entrepreneurs.
Until recently, there was a serious gap in education for female entrepreneurs in Bend. “When I was first getting Mission Limelight off the ground last year, I realized that the closest such program was in Portland and that I needed that type of education, mentorship and network urgently,” said Barker. “I ended up driving over the mountain for several days each week.”
Female-run companies are less likely to fail, use less capital to reach success and have 12 percent higher annual revenues than those of their male counterparts, but are still receiving less than three percent of venture capital funding. “If we can invest in helping women-founded companies get off the ground in the early stage, the dividends are great for the Central Oregon economy,” said Barker.
The first four-week session convenes in early September and, due to the long waitlist, Barker and Callahan anticipate running another session next winter or spring. The program kicks off helping participants vet their ideas. Successful entrepreneurs like Julie Harrelson of Cascade Angels will be at BendX to work with the participants.
Participants also learn key aspects of launching their company and running a business, from building a team to developing a sales and marketing strategy. BendX gives participants the chance to have like-minded female entrepreneurs as classmates and connects them with female mentors in their fields.
How to design a modern, trendy kitchen that’s timeless.
The Harris family built their dream home and kitchen in Tetherow, after decades in an older remodeled home in Eugene.
“My other kitchen literally had this much counter space,” said Ruth Harris, spreading her arms about three feet apart. “When we built this kitchen I wanted a lot of counter space and a lot of room where we weren’t bumping into each other.”
The family knows all about entertaining guests. Their first year in Bend, they hosted 180 overnight guests, and that doesn’t include the eight lavish parties they throw each year, plus regular Sunday family dinners. A splurge on four task-specific dishwashers interspersed through this kitchen was not out of the question. Each dishwasher is hidden behind wood paneling that matches either the knotty alder wood cupboards or the distressed, crackle-painted fronts in the island.
Another trend in today’s kitchen is the unobstructed single-level island, according to Yozamp, who helped Harris select a massive five-foot by ten-foot granite slab for the island.
“The island is the focal point and hub of the kitchen. It’s an impact statement, but it’s also a workhorse,” explained Yozamp. “There should be plenty of storage all the way around, plus additional seating at the end of the island for casual in-kitchen dining.”
Yozamp said hardwood floors are still the most popular choice for kitchens in Central Oregon today, because they exude warmth, and fit in with the natural environment. The Harris kitchen took their wood floor to another level, by using reclaimed wood from an old home in Independence, Oregon. Each naturally patinaed slat was cut with tongue and groove for seamless installation.
Another popular trend that Harris used in her kitchen was accents of copper, from her backsplash to her hanging lamps over the island.
“It’s extremely expensive, but we’re seeing a lot of fixtures and accent pieces that are in copper and even rose gold,” said Yozamp. “It can be subtle, but a little adds a lot of shine.”
Though not located in the Harris kitchen, but still just steps away, is a show stopping, walk-in, climate-controlled wine cellar, also built with reclaimed wood. It’s fondly known as Chateau Harris and can safely store 900 bottles of wine.
The kitchen is the centerpiece for entertaining at home, which was the case for Bend Hagg-Watter family’s ultra-modern home.
The all-white kitchen was ideal, as homeowner Dr. Jennifer Watter said it keeps it simple, timeless and always looking sleek and clean, something she and her husband Dr. Dan Hagg appreciate with their three busy children.
The sleek and modern minimalistic cupboards allow the Hagg-Watter family to add pops of color that boldly stand out, without it looking cluttered. The white quartz island and counter tops in this kitchen are trending in newer kitchens.
“More and more people are choosing quartz and quartzite countertops over granite,” said Cascade Design Center owner Ronda Fitton. “Quartz is an engineered product that comes in various colors, while the quartzite is a natural rock that is actually harder than granite. Quartz is extremely durable, it’s anti-microbial, and slightly easier to maintain than granite.”
This family also likes to entertain and uses a dining room table just off the kitchen that can seat twenty-one people, and Watter added they’ve had Thanksgiving with fifty-six guests. With that many guests, Watter said her butler pantry directly behind her kitchen wall is her favorite feature.
“What I love about this pantry is the second sink in here. It’s a place where we can have appliances like our espresso machine, plus there’s so much storage in here,” explained Watter, as she put away bottles of wine in the special built-in wine refrigerator. “It’s also great that we can close off this area with doors on either side of this butler pantry.”
Fitton said in many higher end homes, people are requesting butler pantries.
“Because we’re seeing open floor plans, people want their kitchens to always look clean,” said Fitton. “If you’re having a party, you can easily hide dirty dishes in the sink in the butler pantry, and you can keep your kitchen counters clear of appliances by having them in the butler pantry and close the door behind you.”
Christine Pollard at OSU-Cascades FORCE Lab is at the fore of new running shoe research.
OSU Cascades FORCE Lab Director Christine Pollard discusses a study analyzing different running shoe technologies and connections to running injuries. Photo by Rob Kerr
The world’s oldest pair of shoes were made in Oregon. Crafted of oh-so-comfy sagebrush bark, perhaps it’s no wonder someone left them in a cave in Fort Rock 10,000 years ago. We’ve been improving on footwear ever since, and so it fits that Bend is at the forefront of studying the latest technology in running shoes.
Maximal running shoes, with their marshmallow-like cushioning from heel to toe, are gaining traction with runners (particularly those over age 40), walkers, and others such as healthcare workers who are on their feet for hours and want to be comfortable and injury-free. Little is known, though, about how maximal shoes influence running biomechanics.
Bend’s Christine Pollard stepped in to find out. She is associate professor of kinesiology at OSU-Cascades and director of the Functional Orthopedic Research Center of Excellence (FORCE) Lab, which does cutting-edge injury research and intervention strategies.
She brought women runners into the lab and used 3D motion capture and treadmills equipped with force plates to measure the impacts on their feet and legs after running 5,000 meters. First, each woman wore New Balance 880s, a “neutral” running shoe with more cushioning in the heel than the forefoot. Then Teague Hatfield, owner of FootZone, fitted them for a maximal shoe, the Hoka One One Bondi 4. They returned to the lab in about a week and repeated the test wearing those. None of them had worn a maximal shoe before.
“What we hypothesized is that the maximal shoe with more cushioning would be more of a shock absorber, but what we found was the opposite,” said Pollard. She thinks that’s the case because the new, super-cushioned feeling of the shoes unconsciously prevented the runners from controlling how hard they were hitting the ground.
So she sent the runners home with the latest Hoka One One Bondi 5 for six weeks to get accustomed to them, wearing them the first week for 20 percent of their runs and increasing gradually toward wearing them exclusively. Then Pollard will repeat the study and have the results by fall.
“I suspect the loading rate and impact peak will go down, but I don’t know,” she said. “No one has looked at it. We’re excited to be the first.”
Find a dog-friendly respite at Barking Mad Farm in Enterprise.
Chief Joseph, Sacajawea, Matterhorn, Glacier, Eagle Cap, Twin, Sawtooth, Ruby, East Hurricane. Each snowcapped peak unfurls a glimpse into the natural history of the Wallowas and a unique vantage on the verdant patchwork of farmland 5,000 feet below. Up at summit elevation, where the air is thinner than the loose shards of granite underfoot, a person gains a little perspective. Down among the cow-dotted fields, just outside of Enterprise in the Wallowa Valley, it’s just as easy to lose yourself in the oversized scenery. The towering Wallowa Mountains to the west are an ever-present alpine marvel visible even at night when they cut a jagged line across the star mottled sky.
Cattle dog Roo lounges on the covered porch at Barking Mad Farm, cocking his ears to the crackle of the campfire, the hoot of an owl and the rhythmic churn of sprinkler lines soaking nearby fields. Luckily, you don’t have to be a cattle rancher, or a cattle dog, to bask in the majesty of northeast Oregon. This porch is open to all of Barking Mad Farm’s guests, who are invited to grab a seat on the porch swing and soak in the solitude.
Country Charm
When guests awake in the morning, the natural world beckons through the window. From the Seven Devils Suite, early risers can watch the eponymous Idaho mountain range glow a fiery orange on the eastern horizon. The 600-square-foot suite maximizes natural light from its perch on the upper level of a building adjacent the property’s classic white and robin’s egg blue farmhouse.
Next door, in the renovated early-1900s abode, the luxury Treetops Suite spans the entire second floor. Emily Klavins owns the bed and breakfast with her husband, Rob, but the pair originally came to the farm as guests. They recommend the Treetops Suite for romantic getaways.
If the mountain air is crisp, light a fire in Treetops’ brick fireplace.Downstairs, the more straightforward Buffalo Suite has an extra bed and views of the neighboring field populated with American bison. This suite is also closest to the sizzle of frying bacon in the morning.
To Market, To Market
The Klavins have been procuring a whole pig for meat each year since they bought the farm from the former owners in 2013, when Rob was able to relocate to Enterprise while keeping his job with the conservation group Oregon Wild. This year, the novice farmers purchased two sows and a hog and brought three litters of kunekune heritage piglets into the world.
“They are little ambassadors,” said Emily. “So socialized—running up to guests to present their bellies for rubs.”
The investment is the latest step in the couple’s plan to be sustainable stewards of Barking Mad Farm’s forty-two acres, an ethic rooted in how they met teaching outdoor school. Currently, much of the acreage is leased to a third party, but the Klavins are hoping to ramp up their use of land year-by-year, demonstrating rural life to guests.
Something To Bark About
On the morning of our interview, Emily had taken some forty-odd hens to a local natural processor to be butchered and was delivering the meat to neighbors. During the warmer months, trips into town revolve around the farmers’ market and farm stand, respectively. The rest of the shopping list items are crossed off at Ruby Peak Naturals and the organic section at the grocery store.
“We value the actual experience people can have with food before it becomes little packages in your fridge,” said Emily.
Emily cooks guests a scratch-made breakfast each morning. Seasonal fruits inspire dishes such as raspberry crepes with crème fraiche, huckleberry drizzle and toasted almonds. Her homemade granola is always fresh, and she need only step out to the henhouse to gather eggs for the Barking Mad Benedict.
Venturing Out
When Roo wants to take a break from all the pigs and free-range chickens running about, he retreats to a two-acre fenced field. There in the “dog park” he’ll gladly show off his stomping grounds to guest dogs. Dogs (and cats) are welcome at Barking Mad Farm if they are friendly and respectful of other people and animals.
Off the farm, a favorite nearby activity for pups and people alike is the hike to Slick Rock from Hurricane Creek Trailhead, where gurgling snowmelt cascades down one pool after another, creating a natural slip-n-slide (6.5 miles, out and back). Joseph and Wallowa Lake beyond offer arts, culture and recreation in spades.
Back in Enterprise, Sinclair Coffee Co. is a great spot for a lunch burrito and a caffeinated pick-me-up. Another tasty daytime option is Sugar Time Bakery, which has stellar sweets and paninis. Grab a midday or evening meal and a pint at Terminal Gravity Brewing.
Shop for skin products at Wild Carrot Herbals, then head to The Bookloft. Hours will pass by as you peruse local art in the bookstore’s Skylight Gallery, chat with locals at creaky wooden tables and pick up reading fodder to take back to Barking Mad Farm’s Adirondack lawnchairs. There in the sunken seats, alternating page turns with glances at the mountains, you will likely stay planted for the remainder of your trip
Former Microsoft exec Rane Johnson-Stempson on the key role of diversity and inclusion in Bend’s growing tech and startup community.
Rane Johnson-Stempson has spent most of her career finding ways to infuse more diversity into the tech industry. She previously approached the issue from a global scale as the research director for Microsoft Research. Now she’s launched a local initiative to help Central Oregon tech and startup companies discover easy ways to make their workplaces more diverse, inclusive and, ultimately, successful. We recently caught up with Johnson-Stempson to learn more about her consulting startup the Ranemaker Institute and her vision for a welcoming, inclusive and diverse city.
Why did you start Ranemaker Institute?
Our belief is that if you feel valued at your workplace and you enjoy your workplace, you’ll be more of a contributor in the community, happier and more prosperous overall. We want to help train tech and startups about what they can do to be more inclusive and help their employees feel better heard. This helps employees and employers, but it also helps us to attract more diverse individuals to the region.
How did your background with Microsoft prepare you to start Ranemaker?
I was previously the principal research director at MS Research, and I was responsible for growing a more diverse global pool of computer scientists and PhD program graduates. I worked with international organizations, governments, and top research and computer science institutions to solve the diversity problem. We also partnered with organizations to take on different social issues affecting underrepresented communities where we thought tech can make a difference.
Why are diversity and inclusion an important issue, especially for smaller startups?
When you’re creating products and services for a diverse population and you don’t have diverse people informing the process, then you’re going to miss the mark. This is important for startups because they’re often trying to build the next big thing and they don’t want to fall behind their competitors. In fact, McKinsey reported that companies in the top quartile for gender, racial and ethnic diversity are likely to have up to 35 percent greater financial returns compared with their national industry medians. But I understand that startup founders have a lot on their plates, so I try to help them recognize the small things they can do to promote diversity and inclusion. A lot is around how you approach performance reviews, how you advance employees and how you recruit new hires.
When you talk about diversity in the workforce, what do you mean?
I like to ask employers, ‘How do you have the greatest diversity of thought?’ You need people with different skill sets, backgrounds, experiences, cultures, genders and sexual orientations. You have to think about what you’re selling and the people you’re targeting. Do you have the right minds in the room? If not, then you need to recruit more people or skill up your staff. You may not be able to hire dozens of people, but you can task individuals with understanding different populations and taking on initiatives that address them.
What do you hope your work with the Ranemaker Institute accomplishes?
My hope is that Bend becomes a role model for small towns across the country as a welcoming and inclusive place. That people and companies can see that they don’t have to go to large cities to have a good life or find great talent for their workforce.
John Fawcett is a local violin prodigy who is in the top one percent of violin students nationally and recently performed for NPR’s “From The Top.”
Photo Courtesy of “From the Top”
Like any kid born and raised in Bend, 18-year-old John Fawcett can navigate a ski slope or mountain trail. He loves to watch soccer and play with the family dogs. But unlike most of his peers, he has a particular affinity for 19th-century classical music and performing on stage in some of the country’s top concert halls. And when he picks up the violin, the shy teen recites a universal language in harmonics and vibrato.
“Music is my first language,” said Fawcett. “I understand it so much better than spoken English. That’s the way I communicate.”
Fawcett started playing violin at 5 years old and was encouraged to continue with the instrument by his parents. He attended St. Francis of Assisi in Bend and then Redmond Proficiency Academy, graduating as a valedictorian a year early. The academy offered Fawcett a flexible schedule for the four to five hours a day he needed to practice.
“The majority of people don’t realize the time it takes to perfect a craft,” he said.
As his violin mastery progressed, he sought instruction outside the area. His weekly lessons were by Skype with teacher Jan Mark Sloman, an internationally renowned violinist, retired associate concertmaster of the Dallas Symphony Orchestra and now faculty member at the Cleveland Institute of Music.
“John is in the top one-percent of students nationally and shows all the earmarks of a career violinist,” said Sloman. “He has a terrific work ethic and is mindful in his approach to music.”
Sloman encouraged him to apply to this year’s Heifetz International Music Festival in Staunton, Virginia, a six-week summer internship that gave Fawcett a chance to perform and compete with other accomplished young musicians from the United States and abroad.
“Recently I’ve been traveling a ton,” said Fawcett. He has performed twice at Carnegie Hall in New York, most recently during last year’s holiday season with the New York String Orchestra Seminar. “The Christmas Eve performance was one of the best experiences of my life,” he recalled. He also recorded a solo at Berkley’s Zellerbach Auditorium for “From the Top,” a National Public Radio program featuring America’s best young classical musicians. The episode aired April 30, 2018 to a national audience.
“From the Top” performers share music at a local school. Photo Courtesy of “From the Top”
One of his favorite performances happened at Bend’s Tower Theatre with Portland-based Pink Martini, who invited him to play with the band in 2015.
“It was an incredible experience, and they played some of my favorite songs,” he said.
In the fall of 2018, Fawcett will head to Los Angeles where he will attend the prestigious Colburn Conservatory of Music on a full scholarship. The school year kicks off with a two-week tour of Great Britain with the school’s orchestra.
“I dream of becoming a soloist or being in an orchestra, performing all the time, and inspiring people with music,” he said, adding that he loves the adrenaline of being on stage. But when he needs an outdoor fix or romp with the dogs, the Bend native is just one flight from home.
Paul Evers, the man behind Crux and tbd, wants to change the way you think about coffee. His backers are betting big that he will succeed.
Paul Evers (right) and son, Bobby
Every Tuesday morning at 7 a.m., Paul Evers meets with his son Bobby at a local coffee shop for a hot Americano or latte (the temperature is important here).
The two talk for an hour or so about life, family, adventures, challenges—just about anything. “Except for cold-brewed coffee,” the elder said with a chuckle. No, for one hour a week, Riff Cold Brewed Coffee talk is off limits.
That’s because most every other hour of every day is devoted to Riff, the upstart cold-brewed coffee business that the two—along with three other co-founders—launched last year after Evers left his previous job as a managing partner in the wildly successful Crux Fermentation Project, a move that surprised many who watched Evers build the business from the ground up.
For those who know him best, however, it wasn’t a shock to see him walk away from Crux. They knew that experimentation was nothing new for Evers, a marketing and branding guru for whom change has been the one constant over the course of his career.
Where is Bend, Oregon?
A fifth-generation Southern Californian, Evers’ grew up the youngest of nine brothers and sisters. He relished the annual spring break father-son trips his dad would take him on into the mountains. “I was always more of a mountain guy,” said Evers, 57, whose salt and pepper beard, plaid shirt and trail running shoes fit the bill.
He started his career in Orange County as an art director in the tech world working on projects for Microsoft and Aldus, but was eager to get his wife and two small children out of the concrete jungle. So he began looking for art director jobs anywhere in Oregon and Washington and eventually got a call from an ad agency in Bend.
After the third phone interview with Mandala Communications, they offered him the job in May of 1990. “But I told them I didn’t know what or where Bend, Oregon was so I was able to talk them into flying me out,” he said. “I immediately fell in love with it.”
Over the next few years Evers was courted by tech giant Intel and several agencies in Boise, but he wasn’t ready to leave Bend. When he did move, it was from the offices of Mandala to the back of his own home where he started a craft brand agency called “tbd.”
For Evers, the goal wasn’t just another agency. The idea was to build a business with a full-service approach to its clients—an agency that went beyond package designs and ad campaigns. Evers wanted an agency that could help clients build ideas that resonated with customers.
“Paul was truly the leader of this movement to start an agency that was a little different,” said René Mitchell, who moved from Mandala to tbd with Evers. “Agencies are criticized for only caring about the creative work,” said Mitchell. “[Paul] had a vision about how to create strong creative work and help a partner’s bottom line.”
Said Bobby: “He did a great job of not just taking what the client thinks they need but helping them develop what they actually need. That was a huge differentiator as to why tbd was so successful. They weren’t just executing branding, they helped solve problems.”
For eighteen years tbd had a hand in the growth and identity of some of Bend’s most iconic brands. Evers and his team came up with Woody, Deschutes Brewery’s gigantic rolling keg/tap room, and paved the way for the brewery’s groundbreaking experiential marketing efforts that continue to this day, like a traveling street pub. And Evers was the guy who in 2012 helped rebrand Kombucha Mama, a fledgling kombucha company, into Humm Kombucha (for whom Mitchell now serves as Director of Marketing).
A New Challenge
Working on branding with Deschutes Brewery and San Francisco’s 21st Amendment Brewery was enough to spark Evers’ interest in starting his own brewing business—if the right people were involved.
As it turned out, the right people were interested.
The result was Crux Fermentation Project. The business brought together the branding power of Evers and tbd, the industry insights of 21st Amendment’s Dave Wilson and the craft brewing mastery of Larry Sidor, a brewing legend whom Evers and Wilson wooed away from Deschutes Brewery.
“We wanted to deliver an experience beyond what beer could be,” Evers said. One look at the families sprawled across the lawn outside Crux during the summer and it’s safe to say that mission was more than accomplished.
Bend Assistant City Manager Jon Skidmore was the Bend Business Advocate at the time, helping small businesses wade through the complex permitting process. To Skidmore, Evers will always be the guy who saw potential in an old auto repair shop, the former Aamco transmission building that Evers and team chose as their unlikely home for the fledgling brewery.
“I had a really hard time envisioning what they were shooting to get to,” Skidmore said. “That’s a fantastic example of Paul’s creativity—someone who can walk into a transmission shop and envision a world-class brewing facility. I sure didn’t see it.”
Over the next few years, Crux’s growth outpaced what anyone had imagined. In 2013, Crux produced just over 1,700 barrels of beer, making it the thirty-fifth largest brewery in Oregon. Last year, production jumped to nearly 10,000 barrels, ranking it seventeenth. Earlier this year, work began on a 2,800-square-foot expansion to the roughly 6,000 square-foot pub in the heart of Bend.
The Next Chapter
Paul Evers next to Riffs pilot brewing system, a centerpiece of the new tasting room.
Four years after opening in 2012, and just as the Crux brand had established itself as a leader in the Northwest craft beer scene, Evers decided to move on while maintaining his stake in the business and seat on the board.
“The brand was in a really great place and had such positive momentum that it was a good idea to hand the brand off to someone with a new perspective,” he said. It was a perfect time for Evers to return to doing what he loves most. “What I’ve learned about myself, what really gets me excited, is building brands,” he said.
For his next collaboration, Evers didn’t have to search long or far. He found a willing partner in his son Bobby to embark on the next adventure. By late 2017, the enterprise had a name and a strategy, Riff Cold Brewed Coffee, a bold experiment that combines Evers brand development with the retail and customer service model that helped establish Crux as a go-to pub.
Riff, to many though, is an unknown. Currently under construction in the burgeoning Box Factory—just down the road from Crux incidentally—the Riff taphouse is already an eagerly anticipated new addition to the Bend craft beverage scene. While cold brew coffee is nothing new or novel—it’s been one of the hottest beverage trends over the past two years—Evers’s venture is likely to push the boundaries of the formula with ideas like flavored and sweetened varieties and even wild-yeast fermented versions.
But unlike Crux, there is no blueprint for a cold brewed coffee taphouse. Together with Bobby, Nate Ambrust, a former executive for Stumptown Coffee Roasters (and widely considered a pioneer in the cold brewed coffee space), Steve Barham, a former top executive at LinkedIn, and Kevin Smyth, who worked with Evers for fourteen years at tbd and in planning Crux, the Riff team has borrowed a little from the craft brew model, a little from the coffee shop playbook and improvised the rest.
“We don’t want to look like a brewery and we don’t want to look like a coffee house,” he said. “We want to be a craft beverage destination and empower people to create their own experience.”
These days, Evers is looking at coffee the same way he looked at that old transmission shop. He sees the potential so he’s immersing himself in learning about beans, the cold-brewing process and the industry itself. The education is necessary to feel confident while embarking on a new mission. Bobby said he believes his dad wants Riff to truly reflect its founders’ values. He said craft beverages, be it coffee or beer, resonate with customers because the products are an extension of the team behind the drink.
“We’re having fun and exploring,” Bobby said. “We’re not saying we have it figured out. We’re constantly learning and hopefully that shows in the brand itself.”
Riff’s four current flavors of bottled coffee are already available at stores throughout the region. Evers has been busy with his team pushing the brand through social media, word of mouth and offering samples to anyone and everyone who can be evangelists for the product.
The taproom will open sometime in September, a perfect time of year, he said, to introduce Bend to a new craft beverage.
“We want to provide an extraordinary experience for folks that reintroduces coffee to them in a way they don’t expect,” Evers said.
Hikes to hit when the crowds and temperature are in decline.
Steins Pillar in the Ochoco National Forest
As hiking season gives way into ski season, the window of reduced trail traffic, mosquitos, and sun rays allows an opportunity to hit any hikes you might’ve missed this summer or find a new favorite without the crowds. With winter trail closures or snowpack shutting off access to many hikes in the area, here are some hikes to hit before hibernation.
Green Lakes
One of the area’s most popular trails closes with the Cascade Lakes Highway in mid-November this year. The trail follows Fall Creek up into the scenic Green Lakes Basin at the foot of both South Sister and Broken Top. Unfortunately for summer hikers, the proximity to the creek and heavily-wooded trail means prime mosquito territory. In fall, this issue is much less prevalent and views of shiny obsidian in the Newberry Lava Flow, the various waterfalls on Fall Creek and the alpine lakes come unimpeded by the thriving mosquito population. Plus, most of the tourists have left, and if you time it right—early in the morning or on a weekday—you could have the trail to yourself.
Distance: 9 miles out and back Difficulty: Moderate Parking: Green Lakes Trailhead $5 for a day pass or NW Forest Pass required Open: Through mid-November
Broken Top Crater
Another hike dependent on the Cascade Lakes Highway, Broken Top presents a more challenging approach than Green Lakes, but rewards hikers with a panoramic view of the Cascades. If your vehicle isn’t up for the five-mile trek on a rugged dirt road, you can opt for the longer hike from the Todd Lake Trailhead. Those with off road capability can expedite their summit by taking the unmaintained Road 370 from the Todd Lake parking area and turning left on Road 380 cued by a “Broken Top Trailhead” sign. The trip to Broken Top Saddle from the trailhead is about 2.7 miles of relatively steep climbing on bedrock with sparse tree cover, but picturesque No Name Lake and views of the Cascades from the saddle are well worth the sore quads.
Distance: 5.4 miles Difficulty: Difficult Parking: Todd Lake Trailhead or Broken Top Trailhead, $5 for a day pass or NW forest pass required Open: Through mid-November
Lookout Mountain
For those looking to branch out from the Cascades, Lookout Mountain, the highest peak in the Ochocos, offers a great introduction to the area. The ascent begins at Independent Mine Trailhead and winds through young ponderosa pine forest and various alpine meadows populated with wildflowers like desert parsley, mountain bluebells and paintbrush. Upon reaching the summit, a sprawling plateau created by lava flow, the climb becomes more gradual and the landscape begins to open up. Fork left at the first junction (about 1.3 miles in) then continue straight at the second junction for approximately one hundred yards on an unmarked trail to access the peak’s best viewpoint. This sheer overlook has a wealth of sights in all directions highlighted by the westward view of the Cascades including Mount Jefferson, Mount Adams and Mount Hood.
Distance: 3.4 miles out and back Difficulty: Moderate Parking: Free at Independent Mine Trailhead Open: Through early fall
Black Canyon Trail
One of the most trafficked trails in the Ochocos, Black Canyon may disappoint those looking for sweeping views, but wildflower enthusiasts will find an extensive selection. The array includes heart-leaf arnica, mountain lady slippers, mule’s ears and lupine strewn throughout the meadows and plateaus. Those looking for a more adventurous hike can explore the nearly-abandoned Coffee Pot Trail that runs into and out of the Black Creek Canyon.
Distance: 7.1 miles out and back or 8.9 with Coffee Pot Trail Difficulty: Moderate Parking: Free at Boeing Field Trailhead Open: May-November
Steins Pillar
This trail brings hikers to the most recognized landmark in the Ochocos, the 350 feet tall Anthracite pillar named after Enoch Steen, a civil war hero and Western explorer. The trail runs alongside large boulders and significant patches of balsamroot and indian paintbrush. Glimpses of the Three Sisters come and go along the route, but the real prize is the view of the pillar itself juxtaposed with the green carpet of the Ochoco hillsides.
Distance: 4 miles out and back Difficulty: Moderate Parking: Free at Steins Pillar Trailhead Open: April-November
Izze Liu, 26, moved to Bend a year and a half ago and works as a land use planner for Deschutes County. Here’s how she used minimalist styling and nostalgic details to make her rental apartment a home.
Name: Izze Liu Age: 26 Job: Land Use Planner Neighborhood: NorthWest Crossing How long have you been in Bend? About a year and a half. Do you live with roommates? Nope. Do you live with any animals? Yes. I have a dog named Arlo.
How did you find your place?
I’ve lived with roommates since I moved out of my parent’s house in 2010. I knew I wanted to finally live alone so I searched for pet-friendly apartments and came across The Range’s website. The apartments were expected to be completed and ready for move in around the same time I needed to move out of my old place. It was perfect timing.
Describe your personal style.
Clean. Monochromatic. Mid-Century.
Do you have a design philosophy?
Keep it simple and invest in quality pieces.
What do you like about your apartment?
I love the high ceilings, large windows and having access to the community clubhouse. The clubhouse has a fire pit, grill and hot tub. It’s so nice in the winter.
What would you change?
The kitchen. I love to cook and have friends over but I wish the kitchen was suited for larger groups. My dream kitchen would have subway white tiles, a Wolf range, a large island, and a farmhouse sink.
How do you like your neighborhood?
NorthWest Crossing is definitely a neighborhood of affluent families which isn’t quite my demographic but I do enjoy being close to Sparrow Bakery, Phil’s, Discovery Park and the farmers market. I wish the mixed use area had more restaurants and bars.
How did you personalize your space?
I tried to fill my space with meaningful items; books that have made an impact on me, cookbooks from favorite chefs, prints of places that bring back sweet memories, and pictures of my family.
How do you commute?
I drive to work and the grocery store. The nearest grocery store is technically bikeable but it would make the grocery trip more of a hassle for me because of the location (all uphill coming back home, heavy groceries, hangry biking). I personally don’t think parking is an issue in Bend. If I have to walk a couple of blocks from my parking spot to my destination, so be it. I think that’s just the reality of driving to a popular spot in a tourist town. I like to bike downtown, to the Box Factory, or the Galveston area when I’m meeting up with friends.
Where do you shop for furniture and decorations?
Most of my furniture is from West Elm. I also shop online at CB2, Ikea, Etsy, and Amazon.
How long do you plan on living here?
I plan on staying in Bend for several more years. My next move will just depend on how my career progresses. My career is everything to me.
This story is part of a series touring young people’s homes and rentals in Central Oregon. If you or someone you know would like to be featured, please let us know ateditorial@oregonmedia.com
Break up the long drive with these hidden gems between Bend and Madras.
Crescent Moon Ranch on Highway 97 in Terrebonne. Photo by Alex Jordan
The days of boring, monotonous road trips are in the past. Jazz up your next road trip between Bend and Madras with our picks of the best pit stops along Highway 97. Stretch your legs exploring the Redmond Caves or taking in the views at the Peter Skene Ogden State Scenic Viewpoint. Grab a quick bite to eat at the Sunspot Drive-In in Terrebonne or Great Earth Market & Cafe in Madras. Entertain the entire family feeding alpacas at Crescent Moon Ranch or digging for thundereggs amidst leaping peacocks at Richardson’s Rock Ranch.
Redmond Caves
A mere two minutes from Highway 97 on the way to the airport, the Redmond Caves are a hidden gem. These five caves were created by molten lava from the Newberry Caldera and the collapse of a single lava tube. Located in close proximity to one another, these caves are accessible and a great way to break up a long drive. If you are short on time, check out Cave #3 and #4, as they are the easiest to explore. Make sure to come prepared with headlamps or flashlights and sturdy shoes. The caves are free to enter.
Distance from Highway 97: 5 minutes Open: Year-round, 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. daily
Crescent Moon Ranch
Take a walk on the moon in Terrebonne at Crescent Moon Ranch, complete with an alpaca farm and boutique. The ranch is right off the highway, making it an ideal pit stop on your road trip. Either park and walk up to view the alpacas for free or go into the boutique and buy a bag of food for $3 to feed them. It’s worth it. Alpaca babies are born in March every year through autumn, so if you are lucky, there will be newborns to pet and feed. Grab a souvenir before you go at the boutique, selling all kinds of products made of natural fibers from alpaca fur.
Distance from Highway 97: On the highway in Terrebonne Open: Summer hours: 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., Winter hours: 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.
Sunspot Drive-In
Grab a quick, cheap bite to eat at the Sunspot Drive-In in Terrebonne near Smith Rock. It’s iconic, retro “Sunspot” sign and location right on Highway 97 makes it hard to miss. This all American restaurant prides itself on its biscuits and gravy and offerings of burgers and sandwiches, serving both breakfast and lunch. With only a handful other dining options in Terrebonne, Sunspot is a local favorite and boasts small town charm.
Distance from Highway 97: On the highway in Terrebonne Open: 6 a.m. to 2 p.m. daily
Peter Skene Ogden State Scenic Viewpoint
A mere nine miles north of Redmond, right outside Terrebonne, the Peter Skene Ogden State Scenic Viewpoint is yet another roadside gem. Take in the views of steep basalt cliffs on either side of the Crooked River, a tributary of the Deschutes River, along with views of two historical bridges and the Cascades. With picnic tables and ample shady areas, this spot is a great place to cool off and stretch your legs on a long drive. You may even see bungee jumpers with Central Oregon Bungee diving 250 feet off the high bridge, one of the two historical bridges.
Distance from Highway 97: On the highway Open: Year-round
Great Earth Cafe & Market
Road trips don’t always have to go hand and hand with greasy fast food. Skip the grub and grab a healthy bite to eat at Great Earth Cafe & Market in Madras, right off the highway. Using only the best local organic ingredients, Great Earth has been making breads and soups from scratch since 1996. Enjoy a bounty of gluten-free and vegan options and a wide selection of sandwiches, salads and soups. Either dine-in or grab an already-prepared meal for the road. With its friendly staff and healthy options, Great Earth is sure to become a routine stop on your Highway 97 road trip. If you’re driving through early in the morning, the breakfast burrito is a must.
Distance from Highway 97: 1 minute Open: Monday to Friday: 7 a.m. to 6 p.m., Saturday: 10 a.m. to 3 p.m., Sunday: closed
Richardson’s Rock Ranch
About eleven miles north of Madras and a few miles east of Highway 97, Richardson’s Rock Ranch will entertain the entire family. The ranch is a family-run cattle ranch but their main draw is their world famous agate beds. You can find thundereggs from all over the world in the rock shop or grab some tools and dig for thundereggs yourself. Rocks are $1.25 per pound with a $12.50 minimum and, for a small fee, you can have your thundereggs cut to reveal the vibrant color inside. Digging is weather permitting, so always call ahead and make sure to arrive before 2:45 p.m. The gift shop is worth browsing to see the variety of rocks collected from all over the world. And watch out for the peacocks that roam the property.
Distance from Highway 97: 20 minutes Open: March to October, 7 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily
Kaisha Khalifeh Gaede, owner of the used bookstore The Open Book, shares her picks for the best new books to read this fall.
The Witch Elm by Tana French
There are few better ways to sink into autumn than with a mystery novel, and few authors do it as well as Tana French. The Witch Elm is a standalone novel not part of her highly successful Dublin Murder Squad series. After a brutal attack, Toby moves to the country to take care of his uncle and nurse his wounds. But when a skull is found in the trunk of an elm tree in the garden, an investigation is launched which may unravel all that Toby knows to be true.
Whiskey When We’re Dry by John Larison
If you loved News of the World or True Grit, meet Jess Harney, the protagonist in Whiskey When We’re Dry. In 1885, Jessalyn is a 17-year-old girl who decides to bind her chest, cut her hair and ride out across the West to find her brother before the militia who wants him dead or alive finds him first. It is a vivid, beautiful novel about the meaning of identity and finding a place in a raw, wild world.
The Lost Queen by Signe Pike
I love lush and immersive historical novels, and a publishing rep hooked me with Signe Pike’s debut novel The Lost Queen by saying it was for fans of The Mists of Avalon,Outlander and the History network drama “Vikings.” I was skeptical, since that sets a pretty high bar; however, Signe Pike’s debut about pre-Arthurian Britain and the sister of the man who inspired the Merlin legend is everything I was hoping it would be.
So Much Life Left Over by Louis de Bernieres
The author of Captain Corelli’s Mandolin brings this beautiful novel about lives upended by the First World War vividly to life. In So Much Life Left Over, a group of friends who have scattered since the war to Ceylon, India, Western Europe and finally back to Britain are all trying to answer a question of how to live in the aftermath.
The Silence of the Girls by Pat Barker
If this summer’s novel Circe by Madeline Miller has left you wanting more stories of women in the Classical Greek world, then you must go get The Silence of the Girls. Briseis is just one among thousands of women living behind the scenes in one of history’s storied Trojan War. Pat Barker masterfully tells of the slaves and prostitutes, the nurses, the women who lay out the dead—all of them forgotten or erased by historical retellings, and brings them vividly back to life in this fantastic novel.
Sky Runner: Finding Strength, Happiness, And Balance In Your Running by Emelie Forsberg
Emelie Forsberg’s book is a beautiful tribute to an extreme sport, ultrarunning at altitude. But more than that, Sky Runner is a celebration the of the beauty of nature and the love of running in the mountains. Filled with advice, recipes and gorgeous pictures from her partner Killian Jornet (another famous ultrarunner), this is a wonderful book to inspire you to get outside just a little bit more.
The 7½ Deaths of Evelyn Hardcastle by Stuart Turton
It is Clue! meets Agatha Christie meets Dean Koontz. In The 7½ Deaths of Evelyn Hardcastle, set at a garden party in a lovely English country house, Evelyn Hardcastle is murdered. Aiden Bishop wakes up each day in the body of a different guest and tries to discover who the murderer is before Evelyn Hardcastle is killed again. It’s completely original, atmospheric and so much fun to read.
Go Find: My Journey to Find the Lost – and Myself by Susan Purvis
After decades of adventuring, Susan Purvis feels like her life is missing something. She takes a ski-patrol job in a Colorado and decides to get a five-month-old labrador retriever. After hearing about three kids caught in an avalanche, Susan decides to get Tasha certified in avalanche, water, and wilderness recovery. Go Find is her memoir about rescuing avalanche survivors and discovering what she was missing in her life.
The Mermaid and Mrs. Hancock by Imogen Hermes Gowar
Based on the history of the actual “mermaid” in the London Museum, this detailed and immersive novel takes you through the docks, coffee shops, parlors and brothels as all of the 18th century London clamors to gawk, admire or disprove this oddity that has landed in their city. If you loved The Crimson Petal and the White you will love The Mermaid and Mrs. Hancock.
Hippie by Paulo Coelho
From the author of the much loved inspirational novel The Alchemist comes Hippie, a biographical novel based on the world travels and mind-expanding adventures of his younger self. Part of the self-described “Hippie” generation, Coelho wants to become a writer and sets off on a journey in search of a deeper meaning for his life: first on the famous “Death Train” to Bolivia, then on to Peru, later hitchhiking through Chile and Argentina and eventually through Europe and Central Asia to Kathmandu.
In the hands of its rightful heir, an orphaned suitcase shines a light on a dark chapter in Oregon’s history.
Eric Ballinger holds his great-grandfather’s suitcase. Photo by Alex Jordan.
Eric Ballinger ran his hand along the battered brown leather suitcase, and paused when he came to the number “#16380” emblazoned on the smooth leather. He traced the numbers with his finger. “This was my great-grandfather Hidehiko Morioka’s suitcase,” explained Ballinger, as he recalled the emotional upheaval and toil that this small suitcase symbolizes for the family.
“When Executive Order 9066 was signed by President Franklin D. Roosevelt in 1942, it essentially rounded up Japanese families living here and sent them to internment camps, in the most remote parts of the United States,” he said. “People, families were reduced to mere numbers.”
How this symbolic suitcase was retrieved is almost miraculous, according to Ballinger, who is a fourth generation Oregonian of Japanese descent living in Bend with his wife and young daughter.
Historical writer and artist Jane Comerford found the suitcase by a dumpster on Killingsworth Street in Portland and felt it was more than just a battered piece of garbage. Seeing the inscription “H. Morioka #16380,” she instinctively picked up the discarded old leather valise and drove it to Oregon Nikkei Legacy Center, a museum interpreting Japanese American experiences in the 1940s, in downtown Portland.
One of the curators at the museum had recently met Ballinger at a “Day of Remembrance” discussion on Japanese internment at the Deschutes Public Library and recognized the Morioka family name. The curator, Todd Mayfield, was able to contact Ballinger and reunite the suitcase with the descendent of Hidehiko Morioka.
“The suitcase is a story of immigration, civil rights, racism, perseverance and great sadness,” explained Ballinger, glancing at the suitcase and the journey it has taken to finally end up in his possession. “It is a reminder of the incredible sacrifice that my family went through to be here in this country. It survived as a reminder of the struggle for freedom.”
The Morioka Family picnics in the Columbia River Gorge area.
The Morioka family had been farmers in the Hood River and The Dalles area. They sent their fruits and vegetables to market in Portland every weekend. Ballinger said the Morioka family assimilated into the American way of life, and to prove it, he shows a black and white photo where his grandmother is wearing bobby socks and oxford shoes, as the family picnics along the Columbia River Gorge with Mount Hood in the background.
“They looked like any other American kids,” said Ballinger with a laugh. “My grandmother even played basketball in high school.”
In the wake of the bombing of Pearl Harbor on December 7, 1941, paranoia and fear began to set in, and bigotry started to show. Japanese Americans were treated with skepticism and hostility by neighbors once considered friends. When Executive Order 9066 was issued, Japanese families had only six days to pack up what they could muster. They left empty homes, jobs and dreams.
“My grandmother told me you could only take what you could carry, and I think the weight limit was seventy pounds,” explained Ballinger. “So many people lost everything. They left behind houses, farms, equipment and furniture. Things they could sell were sold for the fraction of what they were worth.”
Ballinger said his grandfather, Takeshi “Harry” Morioka, was a newlywed during the years of his family’s internment at Tule Lake, the largest internment camp in the country, on the California-Oregon border. He promptly volunteered for the United States Army and became a much sought after translator in the Military Intelligence Service.
Morioka was later given, posthumously, the Congressional Gold Medal for his service, which Ballinger and his mother proudly received in his honor in Washington D.C. in 2011.
Ballinger holds the Congressional Gold Medal awarded to his great-grandfather for his service in World War II.
“Even after the war, when they came back to Oregon, my great Uncle Shig said there was blatant racism in Hood River. There was a full-page ad in the newspaper that read, ‘So Sorry, Japs not wanted in Hood River,’” said Ballinger. “In 1944, the American Legion in Hood River had removed sixteen names of Japanese American soldiers from its Wall of Honor despite their sacrifices for our country. It was a pretty hostile environment.”
It’s a pain that has spanned generations. Ballinger noted that his mother didn’t learn of her family’s internment until she was in high school.
“No one in the Japanese American community ever spoke of this topic. It was painful, embarrassing and dishonoring,” said Ballinger.
Since the suitcase was saved, Ballinger felt compelled to tell his family’s story in Oregon. It has been part of the 4th/5th grade storyline on Japanese American Internment at Bend’s Kenwood Elementary School and was on display this past summer at the High Desert Museum’s exhibit on World War II.
Recently, Ballinger told his story at Central Oregon Community College, and he hoped to continue to share this family history that is sometimes forgotten in American history.
“The suitcase is helping to tell a story that my grandparents had a hard time sharing. In fact, they didn’t really tell us anything until they were in their eighties,” said Ballinger. “The suitcase was packed with dreams, pride, uncertainty and hope. I think it’s important to tell this history, where U.S. citizens were denied their freedoms and stripped of their civil rights—it’s especially important now.”
Oakridge has more to offer than just singletrack trails.
Like many small Oregon timber towns, Oakridge faced an identity crisis in the early ’90s. The small town tucked into the central Cascades near the headwaters of the Willamette River was one of many Northwest logging towns left reeling by the collapse of the timber industry. The once-bustling Pope & Talbot lumber mill closed its doors in 1985, idling more than 1,000 workers—almost a third of the town’s population. It’s been a long road back, but Oakridge is following the model of towns like Bend that have transitioned from timber to tourism, led by its world class mountain biking.
The region now boasts more than 350 miles of trail set against rolling hills and draped in mossy Pacific yew trees and Douglas fir. While most people rightly associate Oakridge with mountain biking, the area has proved it has much more to offer. Whether you’re here to frequent the slanting singletrack berms, gaze at gushing waterfalls, soak in natural hot springs or toss a fly to a wild rainbow trout, Oakridge is a destination for serious recreation.
Mountain Biking
Willamette Mountain Mercantile (WMM), founded by McKenzie Bowerman, grandson of legendary University of Oregon track coach and Nike co-founder, Bill Bowerman, is the starting point for most outdoor exploration around Oakridge and neighboring Westfir.
Operating out of a converted auto-repair garage, WMM offers high-end demo bikes from Santa Cruz and Ibis. World maps are plastered around the interior of the shop. A rainbow of thumbtacks mark the places across the globe from which past shop visitors hail, a testament to the area’s growing appeal.
Dining
If you’re looking for a quick bite, Stewart’s 58 Drive-In is located directly off Highway 58 on the east end of Oakridge. This mom and pop shop provides fresh American cuisine that is sure to fulfill your daily calorie requirement. Get yourself the original “58” burger basket with fresh-cut sweet potato fries and choose from a variety of sauces that may very well be the most colorful condiment palette in all of Oregon.
For dinner, British alehouse Brewers Union Local 180 is one of the most authentic craft beer experiences in the Pacific Northwest. Situated in the heart of town, this pub is the only brewery in all of Oregon that solely serves cask conditioned ale, hand carbonated ale as it was traditionally served in Britain’s pubs of old.
Owner Ted Sobel established the pub in 2009 as a “social center and meeting place” for the whole family to enjoy. The paperback library, miniature pool table and small board games make this an ideal setting to kick back and enjoy a well-deserved brew. Relish a plate of bangers and mash as a live band fills the air with music while you lounge on the front patio in the golden sunset as it settles deep into the Cascade Range.
Fishing, Hiking and More
Salt Creek Falls
Oakridge’s many rivers and streams offer excellent rainbow trout fishing. Beautiful, iridescent pink hues mark the fish of the local Hills Creek Reservoir, Salt Creek and Salmon Creek, while the reservoir offers a mix of trout and warm water species, including crappie.
Due to the regular stocking of hatchery rainbow trout at Hills Creek Reservoir and Salmon Creek Falls, these tributaries of the Middle Fork Willamette River could make even the most inexperienced angler feel like a pro.
Salt Creek is home to wild cutthroat and rainbow trout. Good fishing can also be found for wild trout on the Middle Fork Willamette between Hills Creek and Lookout Point reservoirs with access from Highway 58 and Forest Road 5852. Brook trout are scattered along the upper section above Salt Creek Falls making this spot an ideal fishing destination.
For hikers, Salt Creek Falls and Diamond Creek Falls is a stellar 5.4-mile, lightly trafficked loop trail outside Oakridge. Take your dog for a stroll or stretch the legs and experience breathtaking waterfall scenery. For a more moderate hiking option, venture towards Diamond Creek Falls and complete the loop.
Head over to the meditative Warm Springs soaking pools just off Salmon Creek Road for a mild temperature soak on a hot day. Considered a hidden gem of Oakridge, these three ninety-six-degree pools experience much less traffic than nearby McCredie hot springs and offer a cooler option on those hotter summer and early fall days.
If you like your sunset served up with a view, Dead Mountain is both the top of an amazing singletrack trail and also a beautiful place from which to see the expanse of the Willamette Valley and Southern Cascades.
If you can’t fit this all into a day, don’t worry. There are plenty of reasons to linger a bit longer in Oakridge, the little timber town that’s turned a page.
Kevin and Linda English discovered gravel cycling by accident, literally. It was five years ago and Kevin was recovering from a mountain biking mishap that resulted in a separated shoulder. Back on the bike after a few months of R & R, Kevin discovered that he didn’t have the strength to lift his front tire over obstacles, a key element in any kind of advance trail riding.
Not willing to give up cycling, Kevin decided to experiment with what was then a hyper-niche segment of biking that combined elements of road and trail riding. Riding bikes that resemble classic ten speeds and cross bikes, but are outfitted with wider, knobby tires, gravel riders seamlessly transition between singletrack, highways and gravel. The setup makes for a great day of touring that gets riders off the more heavily trafficked roads and deep into some of the region’s most scenic areas.
Kevin was immediately smitten with the format and soon had his wife Linda along for the rides. What began as a hobby has turned into a passion project, with Kevin and Linda helping to lead weekly group rides, and more importantly, mapping some of their favorite rides into a shared GPS system that lets any rider follow turn-by-turn directions. Linda has chronicled and cataloged some of these rides on the couple’s website Dirty Freehub, which now serves as the comprehensive gravel riding resource in the Central Oregon region.
We asked the two of them to show us the ropes and walk us through some of their favorite rides that showcase the best of what Central Oregon offers. Here’s what they came up with.
Sherman’s March
Photo by Trevor Lyden
Location: Camp Sherman Distance: 52 miles with shorter options available Elevation: 4,000 feet of gain Difficulty: Intermediate
The Camp Sherman area is one of the most diverse and scenic areas to ride in Central Oregon. Attractions include the Head of the Metolius, Black Butte, Round Lake, the 2003 B&B Complex Fire, Wizard Falls Fish Hatchery, the Metolius River and the town of Camp Sherman. Begin with a short section of gravel and easy singletrack followed by a stop at the Head of the Metolius. Then there’s a moderate climb along the north shoulder of Black Butte, followed by a gravel descent to the paved road that leads south back towards Camp Sherman. At the U-turn, the route meanders briefly along the river and then crosses it, followed by a short section of gravel and a fun three-mile section of singletrack. Climb up to Round Lake, descend and then begin the climb through the B&B Complex Fire area along the southwest side of Mount Jefferson. Descend, cross the Metolius River at Lower Bridge and then head onto the Wizard Falls Fish Hatchery. End the route by rolling up on pavement back to Camp Sherman.
Priest Hole
Location: Painted Hills Distance: 42 miles Elevation: 3,500 feet of gain Difficulty: Intermediate
Looking to escape the crowds while exploring one of the top gravel rides in Oregon? Then head to the John Day River area east of Prineville for the Painted Hills and the Priest Hole ride, a gravel bike loop from the Painted Hills park to the Priest Hole primitive camping area on the John Day River. It includes a divine gravel climb, a heavenly paved downhill that cuts through a deep canyon, glorious farmland and two swimming holes that invite a baptismal dip in the John Day River. Add in rolling hills along the river and a moderate climb to finish off the journey.
Donnybrook
Location: Madras Distance: 54 miles Elevation: 4,400 feet of gain Difficulty: Advanced
Expansive. Remote. Scenic. Demanding. Those are just some of the words to describe this classic gravel grinder. This is the kind of route that demands a real gravel bike—something that kind of looks like a road bike but with wide tires and disc brakes to carry the load offroad. From the start, the climbing begins—800 feet in the first three miles and 2,000 feet within eleven miles. At the three-mile mark, enter a scenic “canyon” for several miles. At mile fifteen, just after Ashwood, the gravel begins, and more climbing, and more big, open views. By mile twenty-one, you have climbed 3,000 feet and the gravel road turns to something like cobblestone—softball sized rocks embedded into a clay base to give a firm but bumpy road surface. At the Wasco County line, the “cobblestone” gravel ends and the gravel becomes loose and thick. Just when you are about to cry uncle, the gravel ends and the pavement begins, with twenty miles of good pavement with an elevation loss of 1,600 feet. Yes, there a couple of small “kickers” left, but also a lot of great views.
Water & Lava
Location: Bend Distance: 30 miles Elevation: 1,500 feet of gain Difficulty: Experienced Beginner
This is one of our favorite rides—close to town, combining all the elements of adventure riding (paved roads, dirt roads, dirt paths, bike paths and some singletrack) and fabulous views. The first third of the ride wanders along the Deschutes River on gravel roads, doubletrack, and one section of singletrack, bringing you to Benham Falls. Be sure to stop and go down to the overlook. The next section brings you to the top of Lava Butte via a paved path that has a slight uphill grade until the very end where there is a short, but steep, climb on a paved road. After leaving Lava Butte, ride the road, not the paved path, back toward Benham Falls. Just before the falls, you will veer left onto a gravel road that then becomes a paved path bringing you to the northern portion of Sunriver. From there, take the easy singletrack back to Benham Falls and then retrace your route along the Deschutes River.
Check out these guidebooks to everything in Central Oregon, from trail runs and mountain biking routes to day-trips for families and wildlife.
Bend, Oregon Daycations by Kim Cooper Findling
Travel writer (and Bend Mag editor) Kim Cooper Findling shares nineteen day-trips around Bend that everyone in the family will love. The book is filled with historical anecdotes and itineraries to make planning easy.
Mountain Bike Bend by Katy Bryce
For beginners, experts and everyone in between, Mountain Bike Bend takes you turn-by-turn through the region’s sought-after mountain biking terrain. Find ideas for rides all around the region.
Trail Running Bend and Central Oregon by Lucas Alberg
Trail running has grown exponentially in Bend where a mix of pedestrian, biking and hiking trails have created a massive network of dirt. Local runner Lucas Alberg provides the inside scoop for the best places to run and when to hit the trails.
Bend Food by Sara Rishforth
Central Oregon is garnering a reputation as a foodie destination thanks to a bevy of creative chefs and upstart small farms that are keeping it local. This extended profile of the region’s bounty showcases the people making it happen.
Central Oregon Bouldering by Jason Chinchen
The first of its kind for the region, this guide to bouldering around Central Oregon is great for new climbers and those looking for new spots to hit.
The Nature of Bend by LeeAnn Kriegh
Written for the casual outdoors-person, this guidebook uses relatable language to help you identify the diverse birds, insects, animals, geology and plants of the Central Oregon. It’s a book you’ll want to have packed on all your adventures around the region.
At the Cascade Lakes Relay that takes place this weekend, Dearric Winchester and Jeremy Howell will both attempt to complete the 216.6-mile course on their own.
Photo of Dearric Winchester by Wendy Wheeler Jacobs
As Dearric Winchester and I finished our morning run, he stopped to point out a spot about a quarter-mile from his house where knee pain curtailed his first training run three years ago and forced him to walk home. For most casual runners, the five miles we covered in the early hours of a hot summer morning would seem a productive morning workout. For Winchester, it represents just a fraction of the 216.6-mile course he and fellow Oregon native Jeremy Howell will tackle in the coming week.
Starting the evening of August 1, Howell and Winchester, 36, will each run the entirety of the Cascade Lakes Relay course—an endeavor usually tackled by teams of six to twelve runners. Both are motivated by more than testing their endurance; Howell will be running to support various food banks, while Winchester will be running to raise awareness for migraines and fundraise for the Association of Migraine Disorders.
Winchester has seen firsthand how debilitating migraines can be as his wife has continuously suffered from them since her late teens.
“It’s very, very hard [for the average person] to empathize with,” Winchester said of the pain caused by migraines. “As I’ve done more of the distance runs [I] kind of feel that suffering. It’s voluntary but you are experiencing some measure of that.” In addition to the discomfort naturally associated with running more than one hundred miles at a time, Winchester is still plagued by the same knee pain that sabotaged his first run.
A desire to bring awareness to and support those suffering from migraines is what drew Winchester to running distances unthinkable for most. “Doing something that makes people say ‘That’s nuts’ is an opportunity to start a conversation,” Winchester said.
Photo by Thomas and Velo Photography
Cascade Lakes isn’t his first attempt raise awareness for this cause. In 2016, Winchester completed a 150-mile run from Mount Hood to Mount Bachelor to promote and fundraise for the organization. The Cascade Lakes Relay will be his longest effort to date, and possibly his largest platform yet. Winchester has raised more than $8,000 toward migraine research through his running. Supporters can learn more about his campaign on Crowdrise, Facebook or Twitter and track his Cascade Lakes progress on his Garmin profile.
While this year’s relay will be his first solo attempt, it will also be Howell’s tenth time participating in the Cascade Relays. It was his preparation for this particular race that inspired his cause.
“People would always ask me [about his upcoming solo Cascade Lakes attempt] when or where are you going to sleep? Or what are you going to eat and when? And you start realizing there are people that face that question everyday,” Howell said. Howell asks those interested in supporting his cause to donate $21.66 (in parallel with the exact race length of 216.6 miles) to the Bethlehem Inn in Bend, the Union Gospel Mission in Salem or the LaPine Community Kitchen or a local food bank or shelter of their choosing.
The two men plan to start together, but the remaining 216 miles will be “pretty much a fight to the death,” Winchester said jokingly. Both largely self-coached, their training strategies leading up to the race differ dramatically.
Photo by Thomas and Velo Photography
While Winchester has been training at as much as 130 miles per week, including recently completing a forty-mile run around Mount Hood, Howell has been constrained by his recent move to Seattle and a kidney stone that has limited his running for the last year. Despite the training setbacks, Howell is confident that he will finish the race.
“I will guarantee 100 percent I will finish,” Howell said. Howell’s confidence in his mental toughness was bolstered by his effort last September in the Mountain Lakes 100. “In my 100-miler the race staff tried to pull me and I said, ‘I didn’t sign up for a ninety-seven-mile race.”
As far as strategy, Howell has broken the race up into fifths and plans to take four pit stops of two to two-and-a-half hours to eat and sleep. Winchester has no concrete plan other than trying to sleep during the heat of the day, opting to play it by feel.
“I have a plan until it falls apart,” Winchester explained. “The wheels are going to come off at some point, I just don’t know when or where.”
Running for a cause is a familiar concept for the Cascade Lakes Relays organizers. Co-founders Scott and Carrie Douglass started the race ten years ago and have raised more than $300,000 dollars for community organizations and nonprofits in the Central Oregon area. The success of the relays led to the creation of the Beer Chase relays, a shorter series of relays in Boulder, San Diego and Bend.
Photo by Thomas and Velo Photography
More than 200 teams last year competed in the Cascade Lakes Relay last year. The teams ran for fitness, in memory of lost teammates, in celebration of sobriety or in honor of loved ones. “When you’re running 216 miles, usually there’s a why behind it,” said Cascade Lakes Relay spokesperson McKenna Boen.
While it’s easy to focus on the insanity of Howell and Winchester’s endeavor, Winchester hopes people pay more attention to his cause rather than to the running. “It’s really easy to focus on the scale of it,” Winchester said. “I’m not here to impress somebody. I’m here to impress on somebody why I’m doing this.”
Updates: A previous version of this article stated that the solo runners would begin their race on August 3. They will begin their race on August 1. A previous version also stated that Cascade Relays holds a beer chase event in Coeur d’Alene, which they no longer do. This article has been updated with the correct information.
A naturalist observes the annual phenomena of the high lakes.
Photo by Kody Osborne
For the humans that inhabit Central Oregon, summer brings outdoor adventure, easy times and lasting memories. But for other species that inhabit the mountains and the high desert, summer can mean something more biologically meaningful: the beginning of life. The Western toad is one such species.
Few who have been to the high forest ranges of Central Oregon are free from stories of their encounters with the mass of migrating amphibians as they make their life’s journey from the waterways to the dry forest floors.
From Sunriver to Redmond and from Bend to La Pine, the Western toad (Anaxyrus boreas) inhabits lakes, rivers and ponds large and small. One iconic gathering of soon-to-be breeding adult toads happens in one of our region’s most popular hiking and outdoor recreation areas, Todd Lake.
Each year between May and June, varying upon the snow pack, or lack-thereof, adult Western toads of a typical minimum breeding age of nearly 3- to 5-years-old migrate from the waterless arboreal floors to the wet and wonderful waterways of the alpine lakes. There they coalesce in the dozens and begin the ritual of pairing up—i.e. toad dating.
After pairing up and mating, a female Western toad can lay an excess of 15,000 eggs, neatly strewn in a strand of “pearl necklace” like egg sacks, weaving and securing them to underwater vegetation near the water’s edge. At least ten female toads can lay eggs in the open waters of Todd Lake. By mid-May, these eggs develop into tadpoles in numbers that can exceed the hundreds of thousands.
The water will stir with movement of dark bodied amphibian larvae, which increase in size over the weeks to come. Complete metamorphosis can take up to three months, as these fish-like creatures transform to match the appearance of their adult parents. By late July to early August, the toads are ready to make the arduous journey from cool waters to the considerably warmer alpine slopes of the Deschutes National Forest.
This is when things get really exciting. Like colonies of ants on the hunt, the shorelines of Todd Lake begin to shuffle and shift with movements of the baby toads. They tend to take advantage of the cooler weather, moving in the early morning and late evening. The occasional summer thunderstorm bringing heavy rain can be especially significant in the assistance of comfort of travel for the still moisture-acclimating amphibians. They move through grasses and other debris, hoping to escape the jaws of hungry predators like the common garter snake or the stamping feet of nearby hikers.
These animals are significant because of their phenomenal march, but they are slowly disappearing from their native regions. The Oregon Conservation Strategy lists the Western toad as a sensitive species in Oregon, due primarily to the general loss of breeding habitat, road fatalities and human traffic in their migration routes. In other words, we are squeezing them out when we are not literally squishing them.
How can we help? Seeing how a boycott of these popular hiking destinations during the height of outdoor adventure and tourism is unlikely, we’ll have to settle for old-fashioned mindfulness. In fact, do visit these sites, but pay attention to our feet and tires. Witness the natural wonders of these incredible animals, and learn to appreciate the wilderness of Central Oregon, holistically. Just be careful, respect their space and don’t take them home as pets. They do much better in their own world and free from our disturbance.
Kody Osborne has been a professional naturalist and community resource for the Greater Central region for more than seven years. To hear more from your friendly neighborhood naturalist, log on to his website, or follow him on Facebook and Instagram. Have any story ideas or have a burning wildlife question? He’d love to hear from you!
Time, travel and experience combine to create a unique home overlooking the Deschutes River.
When then-Portland couple Randy and Lynn started eyeing a second home to eventually retire to more than a decade ago, they fell in love with a view. The house, on the other hand, needed more than a little work. A rickety A-frame perched on a picturesque canyon, the home survived twelve more years as their part-time residence in Central Oregon while they maintained lives and careers in Portland. But when the windows started leaking water, the couple knew it was time to start over from the ground up.
“It was like a three-story waterfall,” said Lynn, recalling a particularly strong rainstorm that prompted nearly all the windows to fail. Windows weren’t the only problem. The quirky A-frame design was not conducive to their lifestyle or tastes. “It was not a house for growing old in,” said Lynn. “But we bought it for the location,” added her husband Randy of the house and eighteen-acre site overlooking the Deschutes. (The couple asked that their surname not be used to preserve their privacy.)
Working with Bend-based architect Scott Gilbride and general contractor Bryan Jolly, the couple first had the A-frame demolished and then quickly started construction under an unusually tight schedule designed to minimize noise pollution that could disturb some resident golden eagles, a federally protected bird whose breeding patterns are easily disrupted.
“We had to have the building up and the envelope enclosed in about four months before the nesting season began,” explained Jolly.
Lynn who, as a military brat, was raised in Albuquerque and Libya, had originally wanted a Southwest-style home complete with portal (porch cover), vigas (exterior beams) and kiva (a small, rounded fireplace). “I’d been designing this house in my head since I was 15 years old,” she said, “but thankfully Scott talked me out of that. It just would not have worked here.”
Instead Gilbride reinterpreted the Southwest style into a Pacific Northwest modern design with a flat-roofed, horizontal stucco structure that, like its Southwest counterparts, is designed in the same hues and materials as the surrounding area and has a layout intended to interact with the outdoors. “It needed to land softly on the site,” said Gilbride. “That site is ridiculously gorgeous.”
The neutral stucco and stone not only help the home blend into its site but also let the location remain the star. “The house was built to support the view,” explained Randy.
The neutral palette and materials continue inside the 2,600-square-foot, two-bedroom, two-bath home using natural colors as well as stone and wood. (Beams in the living room ceiling were repurposed from the old A-frame.) Inside, the couple had specified they wanted an open and informal ambiance that would be easy to live in and easy to care for. Large windows let in the view; tile floors are a practical nod to Lynn’s Southwest influences. The only flight of stairs leads to Randy’s home office, and the expansive kitchen is open to the dining and living area.
The neutral palette also provides a perfect foil to the couple’s world-wide range of inherited or discovered possessions that include a lighting fixture from Libya, artwork from Africa, Navajo rugs and Hopi kachina dolls from the American Southwest and furniture that Randy discovered while on a business trip in South Africa. The handmade furniture is crafted from rare Rhodesian teak harvested from salvaged railroad ties in South Africa. Randy and Lynn’s collection includes a Rhodesian teak dining room table, bench and chairs as well as various other tables around the home.
The home and the couple’s collections were further threaded together by interior designer Scott Brown of J.S. Brown Interiors, who added such elements as a massive wood door from India that serves as a piece of oversize art on the back patio and objets d’art elsewhere that unify building materials and the owners’ tastes.
Weaving together the site, their collections and their history, the couple created a home that blends seamlessly into an iconic desert landscape, creating a unique retreat designed to stand the test of time.
Friends of the Children is a long-term mentorship program founded by Duncan Campbell that takes an individual approach to ending poverty across the country.
Sarah Harmon, left, a paid mentor works with Ashley, right.
It’s been more than half a century since the sociologist and anthropologist Oscar Lewis first put forward a theory of cyclical poverty, a notion that the causes and symptoms of economic and social struggle could and would be passed down from parents to children, no different than blue or eyes or brown hair.
Even in the mid-1960s it was a radical notion in a country that had been spoon-fed stories of rugged individualism and bootstrap billionaires. Poverty as some sort of intractable trait that can trump intelligence and self-motivation runs counter to the very bedrock of the American ideal that all are created equal and that ours is a land of opportunity for all. Today, we have more evidence than ever that poverty is the cause and the symptom of circumstances that are often beyond an individual’s control. So how do we disrupt such a seemingly intractable force? It’s a question that has dogged policy makers for the better part of a century and one that weighed on the mind of Duncan Campbell, an Oregon businessman and philanthropist, who counted himself among the lucky few who managed to escape a life of poverty and neglect.
Campbell, who chronicled his own journey in his book The Art of Being There, graduated from college at the University of Oregon, earned a law degree and went on to amass a fortune managing timberlands around the Northwest. Two decades ago Campbell applied his business mind and his financial resources to an effort that took a different approach to the problem. Campbell decided to take a micro approach to a macro problem. Rather than focus on numbers and statistics, Campbell decided to focus on actual people.
The organization born from that idea, Friends of the Children, is now celebrating two decades of work and has grown from a single Portland chapter to fifteen states. In October, Campbell, a part-time resident of Sisters, helped to launch the first Central Oregon chapter, with four staff members and three “friends,” paid adult mentors who spend about four hours a week with at-risk kids who have been identified by parents, social workers and Friends staff who spend weeks monitoring and observing students at school. Parents are involved from the outset and those who participate are asked to sign up for a long-term commitment that introduces a mentor employed by Friends of the Children into the children’s lives. Those who enroll sign up for a twelve-year engagement that includes roughly four hours of contact each week between the mentor and student.
In Bend, roughly two dozen students are now participating in the program. The students’ backgrounds are varied; some are in the foster care system, some are in single-parent households struggling to make ends meet. This year, all of the participants attend either Ensworth Elementary or Bear Creek Elementary in Bend or the Redmond Early Learning Center. The idea is that children thrive when given the proper role models and a reliable support network. Mentors like Sarah Harmon sign up for a minimum three-year commitment and spend time in the classroom with their student “friends.” They also spend a couple of hours each week on weekend outings and one-on-one with the students at the Friends clubhouse where kids are offered snacks, a place to play games or just relax. Harmon who has worked in the outdoor leadership and child development field for more than a decade, including with Outward Bound, said she was drawn to a model that put so much emphasis on changing kids lives for the better.
“There are so many people who want to be there for all of these kids. Knowing that we are here too [for the kids] is comforting to a lot of people,” said Harmon.
John Flannery is in the business of helping people navigate Bend and has been for almost twenty years. Even if you don’t know Flannery, you’ve probably seen him over the years, shuttling customers in his pedal cab or zipping around in his Green Energy charter bus, entertaining clients with a stream-of-conciousness monologue over his PA system. Flannery traded the pedal cab and bus for Bend Tour Company, an adventure and cultural tourism business. His latest venture emphasizes what Flannery has been great at: sharing his love of all things Bend with a captive audience. Flannery launched the original roundabout art tour in his Green Energy shuttle days and remains a vocal proponent of Bend’s arts scene, advocating for people to “create with gumption.”
On Finding Himself
Bend basically came from wanting a town I knew I could commit to. I wanted a town that had some amenities, but I also wanted a town I could grow with. At that time, 1998, it was a community where you didn’t have to cross five highways to go outside, a community where I could find something to do besides being a bartender. I wanted to no longer be the guy getting people schnockered. That was when I started my bus (The Green Energy Transportation and Tour) taking people home once they did get schnockered!
On Change and Growth
I think people don’t understand that like any town, you can be part of the community beyond just living here. There is opportunity still for people to do what they want to do in the way they want to do it, but they need to create with gumption. If you are going to be here, please be a part of it. Bend has grown out of what it was and there is no going back, sadly. But we wouldn’t be the community we are without this development. The development has brought us great things like the High Desert Museum or the BendFilm Festival. The side I appreciate now, is the art community. Being on the Bend Cultural Commission, seeing people have a passion to support cultural aspects of this community rather than just the mountain bike trails or hiking trails, is really cool.
On Supporting Art
Art has passion behind it, history behind it. And for our community, there is a huge value there. I try to show on the tour that this is not just a town that went from resource extraction to recreation extraction, but rather there is so much more here. Whether it is professional artists or amateur artists, there is so much art everywhere, you pass it every day and even if you are not conscious of passing it, you feel it. It’s important and valuable to making our community happy. As we grow, I just hope people continue to support it.
On Finding Balance
Everybody values different things. Over the years, I have had to change how I am involved with the community. I have a kid now and I felt selfish, at first, not being so involved with things in town, but then I realized if I didn’t put my energy into my kid, he is going to grow up and be an asshole! So that is where a lot of my focus goes these days. One day my son asked me, “Why do we involve ourselves in things that have nothing to do with us?” and I explained, “Flannerys have always been a little grease on the skid, helping the world move along.” It’s not always altruistic—it does benefit us for things to go smoothly. It’s just a matter of keeping the world happier.
On Giving Direction
I get flack from someone I work with that I talk on the phone too much. Go figure, I’m a chatty Charlie! But, it has two purposes. One is to answer questions and the second is to cut off further questions, so they don’t need to call back. And wanting to make people feel welcome. A lot of my day is seeing people who look lost and engaging them and helping them get directions. There is nothing my kid hates more than when we see someone who looks lost. Because I’m like, “Hey, here’s our chance. Let’s see what they need!” And he is like, “Can’t we just go to the playground?” But, even if someone walks in our door and they aren’t looking for us, I just want them to land somewhere happy.
Artist and Central Oregon Community College instructor Bill Cravis has new dual installations at the COCC campus that subvert the status quo.
Bill Cravis
In a small gallery hidden away in the maze of the Central Oregon Community College campus is an exhibit with a big impact. Artist and instructor Bill Cravis created two separate installations in the Pence Gallery designed to be experienced.
The front half of the exhibit, Reality! Season One, evokes Andy Warhol’s 1962 Campbell’s soup can paintings. The work is stark, repetitive, minimalist and controversial like Warhol’s pop art was when he challenged traditions of fine art in the ’60s.
“This is art that is immersive,” explained Cravis. “This is art that you walk into and interact with. It’s not passive.”
Cravis made thirteen firetruck red boxes to display white ceramic coffee mugs. The boxes and mugs start huge—the mugs are large enough to hold a carafe of coffee—then diminish as the viewer moves around the room, eventually becoming dollhouse-sized. Each white mug is emblazoned in black with a single banner headline from The New York Times, starting with January 20, 2017, the day of Donald Trump’s inauguration. A significant number of headlines are about the Trump presidency. The last tiny mug is dated January 19, 2018. Visitors tempted to pick up a mug may do so carefully.
“A lot of my work is satirical, like a jab,” he said. “But this is more objective. The primary metaphor is of something big and disturbing that begins shrinking until it becomes trivial. For me it’s very personal.”
Reality! Season One started with Cravis’s self-reflection of drinking coffee each day while reading or listening to news reports of suicide bombings, school shootings, environmental catastrophes and global tragedies. The overlap of “something so pleasurable with something so disturbing in the news” led to the installation, he said.
After her second visit to the show, COCC theater student Aislin Goldrick said, “It’s funny but kind of sad and depressing. These are all things that Trump said. The mugs with texts are simplistic and powerful, and the sheer quantity of them fills the room.”
In the back half of the gallery, Cravis finds his satirical voice in Happy Campers, which consists of four video monitors that loop sequences of people singing “Row, Row, Row Your Boat” in their cars. Cravis started the project while living in Minnesota before coming to COCC to launch 3D Design and Sculpture programs in 2012. He finished the installation this year during an artist residency at Caldera in Sisters.
In Minnesota, he recruited about 120 individuals to sit in their cars and sing while he videotaped them. Because the participants were isolated without the benefit of hearing each other’s voices, the result is an uncomfortable dissonance. The image of traffic jams and solitary drivers “trapped in their hulking automobiles, bumper to bumper adrift in a sea of other solitary drivers, is a grand display of frustrated individuals getting nowhere,” he wrote of the exhibit. Outside the car windows is an eerie red, fiery glow that contrasts with the voices singing “life is but a dream.”
In a way, Cravis has created an installation that challenges the Central Oregon art community, which he feels is missing a contemporary beat. “It’s a place that hasn’t yet embraced 21st century art forms,” he said. “Sometimes I feel like I don’t belong here. I’m not making art objects as commodities to be passively consumed. I want my art to disrupt the status quo.”
The installation opened in May and runs through July 31. Hours are 11 a.m. to 5 p.m., Wednesday, Thursday and Friday and by appointment.
Rugged and remote, North Umpqua Valley offers endless opportunities for exploration.
Photo by Arian Stevens
The story of the North Umpqua Valley begins and ends with a river. In between are chapters filled with stories of rugged exploration and boundless recreation, bookended by tumbling waterfalls, percolating hot springs and singletrack trails that cling to mountainsides and carve through hidden valleys. Then there is the river itself that bubbles from deep beneath the jagged floor of the Mount Thielsen Wilderness high atop Southern Oregon’s Cascade Range. It emerges clear and cold, plunging headlong toward the ocean through an ancient forest that still harbors a few secrets. On its way, it will gather countless small streams, tributaries that stretch like liquid capillaries into the vast forest of old growth Douglas fir and cedar trees.
For millennia the rivers and forests have sustained a reclusive and resourceful population. Native Americans made this valley their home long before the first explorers came to North America. They hunted deer and elk in the surrounding forests, gathered migrating salmon and steelhead from the clear blue pools of the North Umpqua in the shadow of Mount Mazama, long before it erupted to form Crater Lake. The first European settlers would arrive later, drawn by the same bounty and sheltered beauty of a place so remote that the first paved road wouldn’t be laid down until the mid-1960s. Even today, cell phones are largely useless in the North Umpqua Valley. The remote nature of this place is one of its charms. In a hyperconnected world, unplugging on a visit to the North Umpqua isn’t just a recommendation—it’s a prerequisite.
On the Water
Of all the ways to experience and explore the North Umpqua River, whitewater rafting and kayaking has to be the most thrilling—in a white knuckle, screams-of-joy kind of way. While the North Umpqua doesn’t offer the remote, overnight extended adventures that have made its sister river, the nearby Rogue, an international rafting attraction, the jaw-dropping scenery, plunging chutes and sheer volume of whitewater make a day on the North Umpqua a must-do for any adventure-minded tourist looking for the full experience.
While there are local shuttles available for kayakers and DIY rafters, the river is not a place for novices. Numerous Class III and IV rapids as well as logs and boulders make it a run best left to experts and experienced paddlers. For the rest of us, there are multiple whitewater guide services that operate out of nearby Roseburg as well as Bend, including Sun Country Tours, which shuttles guests from Bend to the Umpqua and back in the span of a day.
Hook, Line, Sinker
Photo by Arian Stevens
The North Umpqua is in many ways ground zero for Northwest steelhead fly fishing, a sport that has been elevated to a kind of aesthetic art in places like the Steamboat Inn, where an entire room is dedicated to the sport’s literature and lore. The thread picks up early in the 19th century when pulp novelist and fishing fanatic Zane Grey set up his fishing camp opposite of what is now the Steamboat Inn, above a long gravel bar below Steamboat Creek. It was here that Grey, a prolific author, spent several summers chasing the fabled summer steelhead during the dawn hours and writing his serial Western novels on the banks of the river in the afternoon.
Today, thousands of anglers make an annual pilgrimage in hopes of intercepting one of these seemingly sacred fish on their spawning journey. It’s no small feat. Steelhead are known as the fish of a thousand casts. And that’s if you know what you’re doing. Assuming you don’t, there are several guides that work the thirty-mile, fly fishing-only section of the river around the Steamboat. The Inn offers a nice selection of hand-tied flies and can help arrange guided trips.
Trail Tales
Photo by Amadeus Tiller
The North Umpqua Trail is the most recent addition to the region’s list of draws for recreation seekers, having been completed in 1997. It consists of a dozen segments stretching from Maidu Lake, the source of the North Umpqua river, to Swiftwater Recreation Park and Deadline Falls near the small town of Glide, where hikers and bikers can pause to watch salmon and steelhead navigate the churning falls in feats of aerial acrobatics.
All told, the trail stretches roughly seventy-eight miles, climbing and diving through the valley’s many side canyons and forested arteries. On its way, the trail drops some 4,500 feet, making it a largely one-way trail for bikers not blessed with legs of Lance Armstrong.
Thankfully, several businesses offer shuttles as well as guided trips for those who believe that trail sections with names like Dread and Terror are best navigated with some expert assistance. Oregon Mountain Guides, based in nearby Idleyld Park, offers guided tours as well as shuttles and support.
Riverside History
photo by Joshua Rainey Photography
While most rafters and anglers opt for one of the many campgrounds that dot the banks of the North Umpqua, those looking for something more refined have a few options. First and foremost is the historic Steamboat Inn. The inn has been the center of civic and commercial life in the upper valley for more than half a century. The low-slung lodge and surrounding cabins sit on a picturesque bluff that noses into a sharp bend in the river, overlooking a series of braided falls just below the confluence of Steamboat Creek, the major tributary to the North Umpqua and a once bustling gold mining claim. Rooms range from suites with kitchenettes and private decks overlooking the river to small cottages adjacent to the Inn, as well as several more cabins across the river where Zane Grey’s fish camp once resided.
New owners Melinda and Travis Woodward have maintained the Steamboat’s reputation for great food, which is served up in a historic dining room under pictures of North Umpqua legends like Jack Hemingway and the late Dan Callaghan, who chronicled the river’s many moods in countless photos. In the middle of the room, below a display of fly rods suspended from the timber rafters, a single solid fir table stretches nearly the length of the room; historically, the table served as the communal gathering place for the evening meal.
The table remains, but Melinda and Travis have done away with the “Fisherman’s Dinner” single-seating concept in favor of a more conventional approach that allows diners to come and go at their convenience, which Melinda said works better for families and fisherman, most of whom are on the water in the evening until dark. They have also extended the off-season chef dinner series that pairs Oregon wineries with prominent chefs from around the state for an evening of riverside dining with emphasis on Oregon ingredients.
Other Attractions
Photo by Alex Jordan
Black diamond mountain bike trails and whitewater rafting aren’t necessarily suited for the whole family. But that’s not all that the North Umpqua has to offer.
Those interested in a more low-impact day can take a self-guided waterfall tour that features half a dozen falls, ranging from the dramatic (Watson Falls plunges more than 270-feet) to the sublime.
For those feeling a little more adventurous, Umpqua Hot Springs near Toketee Ranger Station is a popular destination.
Big Bend Pool on Steamboat Creek is another great option for families. Here you can find a window into the world of the elusive summer steelhead that stack in a deep blue pool waiting for nature’s cue to move farther upstream. Hundreds of steelhead can be seen here idling in the clear pool.
While there is plenty to keep you busy for days, if not weeks, within the valley, the area is also a popular jumping off spot for Crater Lake National Park. Nearby Diamond Lake Resort also offers a nice diversion for families who want a more traditional day at the beach, complete with pedal boats and ice cream cones.
How baseball and a bold Italian launched Bend’s nationally acclaimed parks district.
Photo courtesy of Deschutes Historical Society
On a summer evening at Vince Genna Stadium, the high desert sun pounding behind third base, the steam of hot dogs wafting, the crack of a bat punctuating the balmy night, one might ponder the venue’s namesake and conclude that his influence began and ended at home plate. It’s true that baseball brought the headstrong Italian to Bend, back when it was a mill town in the shadow of Bachelor Butte. But Genna contributed much more than the baseball diamond that carries his name. His work over decades shaped Bend’s nationally recognized parks and trails system, setting the stage for a recreation revolution that has elevated this city to one of the West’s best places to live and play.
From neighborhood parks to ballfields and urban trails, you don’t have to look far to see Genna’s lasting impression. It began in 1954, when Genna was gaining notoriety for coaching Little League and amateur baseball teams to state and regional championships in Salem. Local lumber baron Leonard Lundgren wanted that for Bend, so he convinced Genna to move here with his wife and two sons and paid to fund an assistant recreation manager position for the city.
Genna, a Washington state native and master sergeant who’d been awarded the Bronze Star Medal for his service in the U.S. Army Air Force during World War II, charged into the role, on a mission to leverage every volunteer and civic resource within reach. He was promoted to recreation director, did volunteer improvement projects around the city with the Junior Chamber of Commerce and coached Bend’s American Legion junior baseball team to the state title in 1958. Six years later, the city combined its Park and Recreation departments with Genna as its director. Like a talent scout working the minor leagues, Genna had an eye on every piece of prime city and county land that he could wrangle for a city park, especially ones suited for ball fields.
“He was the ultimate scrounger,” said Bruce Ronning, the district’s former director of planning and development. “He would twist arms, beg, borrow and steal to get his projects done.”
Vince Genna’s work positioned Bend as a city with a premier parks program. Photo courtesy of Deschutes Historical Society
For instance, one day in 1972, Genna was waiting in city hall for a meeting with the new city manager, Art Johnson. He was looking at a color-coded zoning map, and he got a green felt marker and drew where he thought the parks should be, essentially rezoning the city with a parks first mandate. Based on his creative edits, he got a local contractor and even the Deschutes County Public Works department to start building Ponderosa Park, said Paul Stell, who worked with Genna for thirty-one years, before retiring in 2012.
“The city, they figured it out,” he said. “It was almost complete when Art called Vince into his office and said, ‘Alright, you pulled a fast one here,’ and Vince pulled out a letter of resignation and said, ‘I’ll be gone if you want me gone,’ and Art said, ‘No way.’”
That year, the 3,500-seat baseball stadium, called Municipal Ball Park, was renamed for Genna.
He’d once told Stell what made him get up in the morning. “His favorite thing was to see a kid on his bike with a mitt on and holding a baseball bat, riding to go play with his buddies,” said Stell. “That’s what drove him—providing opportunities for young people was what it was all about for him.”
Vince Genna Stadium
Jim Crowell of Bend was a centerfielder on Genna’s American Legion amateur baseball team in Bend in 1954 while attending Bend High School. He recalled that Genna’s dream had been to play shortstop for a major league baseball team, but in 1942 his contract to play for the New York Yankees arrived along with his draft notice. During the war, Genna injured his shoulder, dashing his chances of hitting the big league.
“Vince was a dang good player … that’s what happened to young guys then—their dreams were interrupted,” Crowell said. That didn’t disrupt his passion for the game. “He didn’t make players love baseball, they loved it because of Vince. He treated us so well, and inspired us, if you will, with his incredible love for this game. He conveyed that to everyone on the team. We would’ve run through concrete walls if he’d asked us to.”
Wayne Smith worked with Genna for thirty-one years, retiring as district director of recreation in 2011. “You had to earn his respect and trust,” said Smith. He recalled having had the distinction of being fired by Genna—twice. The first time, over an issue with the pool, and the second time “for getting in his face” about accusing a district employee unjustly, he said. Smith went to work the next morning, and Genna acted as if nothing had happened.
“He had a big heart for kids and would do anything for them,” said Smith. “He was ruthless, domineering, aggressive and intimidated others, all in the interest of building the district. Vince made the district a powerhouse by hiring good people to take it to the level it is today.”
Genna oversaw the parks department for more than thirty years and died at age 86 in 2007. Today, the Bend Park & Recreation District has more than 2,700 acres of land, including eighty-one parks and seventy miles of trails.
Few complete the Pacific Crest Trail without a little help from friends and strangers—small acts of kindness dubbed “trail magic.”
A section of the Pacific Crest Trail
In 2015 my husband and I quit our jobs in Maine to hike the 2,658-mile long Pacific Crest Trail (PCT), a route that winds along the spine of the Sierra and Cascade Mountains from the Mexico border to Canada. It’s the equivalent of walking from New York City to Miami and back again—if the entire route ran across the top of a mountain range and spanned a desert.
The PCT is a journey that is both grueling and transformational. It’s also one that many choose to do alone, either for personal or logistical reasons. But few complete it without a little help from friends and strangers—small acts of kindness that the PCT tribe dubs “trail magic.” Trail magic occurs anytime someone helps a hiker out. That person is often called a trail angel. For some, giving back to the trail is more than a spontaneous gesture, it’s a ritual.
“Trail magic happens all the time,” said Mark Larabee, Pacific Crest Trail Association associate director of communications and marketing. “It can be anything from a ride to the store to a bag of kiwis left for hikers. It’s very spontaneous and comes from people wanting to give back. It kind of renews your faith in humanity.”
Setting out to hike from Mexico to Canada alongside thousands of other hikers was a life-changing experience for me. Afterward, despite the hunger, shin splints, monster-sized blisters, exhaustion, boredom and bee stings, we found ourselves longing for the trail, but with a relocation to Washington and new jobs, the logistics of another long-distance hike didn’t fit into our life. That’s when we decided to make a little magic of our own.
So, one weekend in July, when we predicted a hiker bubble would be passing through, we loaded up our Corolla with a little propane grill and enough food and drinks to feed a small army and headed into the Willamette National Forest to Charlton Lake, about fifty miles southwest of Bend.
Hungry, Hungry Hikers
Charlton is one of the many alpine lakes dotting the Oregon stretch of trail. It’s remote enough for trail magic to remain a surprise, but its primitive campsites were accessible by forest road, with a parking lot close enough to haul coolers from.
It was also a spot where we had received trail magic of our own in 2015 from a group of weekend campers. We had politely set up camp away from the group, so as not to disturb their festivities with our stench, and were about to dig into our dinner of cheese and peanut butter tortillas when one of them brought over pulled pork sandwiches, an avocado, cucumber and watermelon salad and two Rolling Rocks. After hiking a twenty-mile day, eating the fresh and home-cooked food while gazing out onto the glassy lake tasted like heaven. I think we ate our regular dinners too, because, well, hiker hunger.
Nathan “Bamboo” Voeg (everyone who thru-hikes picks a trail name that they go by while they’re on the trail), a thru-hiker from Montana whom we fed, said hiker hunger is “hunger that hits you after you have been on-trail for a month or so.” Voeg rolled into our trail magic camp in the late afternoon, proceeded to eat about three hamburgers, countless hot dogs and sodas and stayed for breakfast the next day, entertaining us with his stories of the trail. “You do not turn down food offered to you when you have achieved hiker hunger,” said Voeg, who is tackling the 3,100-mile Continental Divide Trail, which runs from Mexico to Canada through the Colorado Rockies, this year.
We had around forty hikers come through, grilled up sixty hamburgers, thirty-two hot dogs and two veggie burgers, and doled out forty-eight cans of fruity soda, seventy-two beers, two bags of apples, four family-size bags of potato chips, Sour Patch Kids, baby carrots and baked goods I had been making and freezing all summer—basically everything we craved as hikers.
An Angelic Legacy
Trail angels evolved naturally from the trail. No one really knows their exact origins, but they probably started first on the older Appalachian Trail, which spans 2,200 miles from Georgia to Maine, and later migrated to the PCT, which was first conceived of in 1926 but wasn’t officially completed until 1993.
Trail angels come in all shapes and sizes. They can brighten the spirits of a hiker on a tough day with something as simple as a jar of pickles anonymously left beside the trail, or maybe the angel is a little boy on a day hike with his father who shares his fruit rollup. They often provide a practical and necessary service like a ride into town. And every once in a while, an angel will provide some truly miraculous magic.
The author and her husband in the northern Cascade Range at mile 2,600 of the Pacific Crest Trail.
“You can do it once or make a lifestyle of it,” said Todd “Burning Man” Galewski, who hiked the trail in 2007 until he got snowed in at Bend, was offered a good job and never left. He received some memorable trail magic that year, like coming to a road crossing in the Mojave Desert where someone was making root beer floats for hikers, but the most memorable he credits to Scout and Frodo (aka Barney and Sandy Mann), legendary angels who have been welcoming hikers into their San Diego home for years. Galewski stayed with them before starting the trail, like many hikers (more than 900 in 2017) and had a chance encounter with them later on.
“Scout saved my life,” he said. He described how he had become so sick he could no longer hike when Scout and Frodo came upon him by chance while they were hiking in King’s Canyon, California. While the couple took a break on the way back to their car to chat with some friends, Galewski continued hiking to the trailhead, since he was going much slower. Delirious, he missed a switchback and stepped off-trail. When the Manns didn’t see him at their car, they turned around to search for him. Scout finally noticed faint footprints and found him dehydrated and unconscious in a field, with what he later found out at the hospital was giardia (an infection contracted from drinking contaminated water) and the flu.
The two stay in touch. “Scout came up to visit me and my family in Bend,” said Galewski. “We have a lifelong bond. He feels very responsible for my life.”
If you were lost in the woods near Bend, it was local trail angel Lloyd Gust you called. A world-traveled hiker with a deep familiarity of the region’s trails, Gust provided trail magic in the form of rides and much more for over ten years, until he was no longer able to at age 84.
“The unique thing about him was that he was the type of guy that when you’d call and say, ‘I’m lost,’ he’d say, ‘That’s good, that makes two of us. Look to the east and tell me what you’re looking at, now look to the west, the north, the south. Oh, I know where you are. Go to your right, there’s a little trail that will take you to the trailhead and I’ll be there to pick you up,’” said Brian “Uber Ducky” Douglass, Gust’s friend and personal assistant, who took over for him five years ago.
“Lloyd used to tell stories of getting woken up in the middle of the night by hikers calling who were really sick or injured,” said Cat Addison, another local trail angel.
A mail drop for hikers along the PCT.
Gust passed away four years ago and Douglass has been carrying on, giving rides to hikers, and has organized a group of a dozen or so mostly retired locals to help. “Gray beards, gray hair—that’s what they get,” said Douglass, who is retired from a career in public service. He’s not a hiker but saw the need for the service. He and his group of angels pick up hikers at the three main trailheads and bring them to the post office, grocery story or REI, suggest affordable places to stay and take them back to the trail the next day.
Last year was an exceptionally challenging year for hikers due to a deep snowpack in California’s Sierra Nevada mountains and wildfires closing down most of the trail in Oregon and Washington, making trail angels even more important. The fires left many hikers stranded in Bend, which is when Woody Keen, “Nibbles,” a retired trail planner and builder, began trail angeling by driving hikers around the wildfires in the Sisters Wilderness Area.
“I learned of trail angel work, posted my name up for help and started getting all kinds of requests for shuttle assistance,” said Keen, a trail runner who does volunteer trail maintenance and education through the PCTA. “I am retired so have free time, a large truck that can haul lots of hikers and packs, and am pretty familiar with sections of trail through this area.”
The Trail Provides
There’s a saying on these long-distance trails—“The trail provides”—a testament to both the unexpected magic of strangers and the free spirit successful hikers need to embrace. That’s not to say hikers aren’t prepared. They often spend months figuring out their food supplies, use maps and water reports to find viable water sources and never count on trail magic.
The Pacific Crest Trail Association warns hikers not to rely on trail angels or water caches. “Being self-reliant is part of long-distance hiking,” said Larabee, who has section-hiked large portions of the PCT. “It’s kind of the antithesis of relying on trail magic and trail angels.”
“If you plan on it or can count on it, it isn’t nearly as magical,” said Voeg.
The PCTA doesn’t want to stop trail angels, “but at the same time we want them to be responsible for what they put out there,” he said. “We tell people if you’re bringing food out, stay with the cooler and hand it out then bring back everything you brought in.”
Addison or “Catdog,” who has thru-hiked both the Appalachian Trail and PCT, used to put a cooler out at Santiam Pass with chocolate chip cookies and sodas that she would restock every weekend, but stopped after a bear got to it.
Trail crews make the Pacific Crest Trail better for everyone who hikes the famous route.
“We’re really pushing Leave No Trace—being sensitive to the landscape and wildlife,” said Larabee. “Lots of people with good intentions leave coolers out and they turn into basically garbage, and our trail crews are cleaning them up.”
These days Addison will offer hikers rides, but her primary way of giving back to the trail is trail work. She is certified through the PCTA and assigned a section of trail to maintain, taking a group of women out with her each year.
For Addison and many other angels, giving back to the trail any way they can brings them closer to something they love. Addison said she feels a little twinge of sadness during the springs when she is not planning a big hike, but others are departing on their epic journeys, whether on the PCT, Continental Divide or Appalachian Trail. Next year, she plans to hike the Colorado section of the CDT. In the meantime, she will keep working on her angel wings.
“Once you do something like this you feel so empowered, you just want to do it again,” Addison said.
Red Duck Foods is an organic condiment company based in Bend and Portland that aims to become a national brand.
Six years ago, Karen Bonner met up with two of her classmates from the University of Oregon’s MBA program at Rennie’s, a beloved restaurant and bar near campus. They were brainstorming business ideas for a project for their entrepreneurship class, and the trio’s attention turned to the ketchup on the table.
“We started talking about condiments and why you would pour a bottle of high fructose corn syrup on really delicious, consciously sourced food,” Bonner said. The group landed on the idea of an organic condiment company, which they aptly named Red Duck Foods (the color of ketchup plus their school mascot).
Now Red Duck’s eleven condiments—which have extended far beyond ketchup—are sold around the world. The company, based in Bend and Portland, also launched three taco sauces earlier this year; the sauces will debut across all Whole Foods stores in August.
A School Project With Legs
While still at UO, Bonner and her project partners, Shannon Oliver and Jess Hilbert, began tinkering with ketchup recipes in their kitchens. “We’d take it to classes when we’d present the idea and people told us they’d buy it right then,” she said.
Producing the condiments was a group effort—the trio would make the ketchups in a rented commercial kitchen, then hand ladle it into bottles. Their friends and family were fans, but they knew they were on to something after they ran a successful Kickstarter campaign in May 2013. The campaign raised $25,525 and was supported by more than 600 people around the world. By the time the women graduated with their MBAs the following month, their three flavors of organic ketchup were available in Eugene stores.
At that point, Bonner, who now lives in Bend, faced a choice—to pursue this fledging startup or move on with her original career plans. She ended up turning down a job offer at Intel and passing up a PhD program to follow the condiment experiment.
“We were really excited about the opportunity to build something from the ground up,” said Bonner, who is Red Duck’s chief financial officer.
A National Brand
Red Duck continued to grow, with the founders initially driving around the state, their trunks filled with ketchup bottles that they personally delivered to stores. Bonner noted that a few key milestones put them on track to create a much bigger brand.
For instance, Red Duck was picked up by two national, natural food distributors, which allowed them to introduce their products to more places—and stop delivering themselves. They also got into the Bend Whole Foods store about four years ago, and the manager there championed their brand to other locations in the region.
More recently, the company also became a certified B Corp, a recognition of Red Duck’s commitment to environmentally and socially responsible business practices.
“We want our company to have delicious products, but we also want everything to be done the right way,” said Bonner. Looking forward, the founders anticipate that Red Duck will continue to grow, adding products and expanding their availability.
“We want to build our brand recognition to the point where we’re the preferred sauce in everyone’s refrigerator,” said Bonner.
Unlikely duo grows an artisan beef and pork concept in Tumalo called Pioneer Ranch. (Photo: Beau Beach and Evan Moran at Pioneer Ranch in Tumalo.)
There are no big iron gates at the entrance to the driveway that leads to Pioneer Ranch. There is no archway displaying the ranch’s brand. You won’t even find a horse on this thirty-acre property tucked between Bend and Sisters. What you will find is a herd of beef cattle lolling in a pasture framed by the Three Sisters mountains. The cows, a mix of beef cattle breeds, are the backbone of Pioneer’s booming artisan beef business. They are also the test subjects in owner Evan Moran’s ongoing quest to create the perfect steak.
Pioneer Ranch History
Rewind to 2014. Moran, a pharmacist by trade, had recently relocated his family to Bend from the Fresno area. Moran was working at the Bend Rite Aid pharmacy and living on Bend’s west side when he started toying with the idea of buying some property and playing farmer. “It was really just to get out of town,” said Moran, during a recent tour of his property. “We went from one-third of an acre to thirty acres.”
Moran acquired five pigs within a few months after the move in 2015. At the same time, Moran had been developing a friendship with Beau Beach, the gregarious owner of Bom Dia coffee on College Way near Central Oregon Community College, where Moran would regularly stop in for a cup of joe. Beach is the product of a Cottage Grove logging family and grew up close to the land. A natural entrepreneur, Beach worked briefly in emergency services before realizing he was more suited to running a business than an ambulance.
Moran was going through a similar mid-career reevaluation when the two struck up a friendship. The duo started casually throwing business ideas around. Moran’s new property seemed like the perfect incubator for an artisan ranch concept. Moran would provide the land and handle the animal science. Beach would provide the entrepreneurial spark needed to differentiate Pioneer Ranch from the rest of the pack. With a handshake, the business was born.
Just two years later, the operation has taken off. Pioneer Ranch is up to a population of nearly 100 beef cattle this year. The hog operation has outgrown a former horse corral and is set to move off-site to land leased from a neighbor. Customers meanwhile are lining up for Pioneer Ranch’s products, which are available in boxes of selected cuts of beef and/or pork through Pioneer’s website and available for pick-up at Bom Dia.
The Difference in Pioneer Ranch
The key is flavor. The secret, said Beach, is a combination of breed and feed. When it comes to beef, the two believe they have hit on the perfect formula that relies on a traditional grass-fed pasture approach combined with a multistep grain-finish process that employs spent grains from local brewers and Bend Distillery. Pioneer takes a similar approach with its pigs, believing that good flavor can be developed. That has also allowed them to use non-traditional breeds, such as Berkshire pigs, one of the staples of Pioneer’s herd.
Beach credits Pioneer’s rapid growth in part to the unique product, but also Central Oregon’s conscientious consumers. “Bend is all about being local and being educated,” he said.
The response has Beach and Moran working long hours to meet demand, but it’s a good kind of busy. “It’s growing so much faster than we expected. Our business plan is changing on a daily basis,” said Beach.
Moran and Beach have big plans for the brand, for sure. In the meantime, you can sample their products as hamburgers, kebobs and more at regular tasting events at Bom Dia, where Beach is hosting a barbeque the first Wednesday of the month throughout the summer. You can also find them at the Tumalo Coffeehouse on Tuesdays, where they will be offering meals and selling their signature Pioneer Ranch select meat boxes. Pioneer will also be at all the requisite festivals, including Munch and Music, Bite of Bend and Bend Summer Festival.
EML Sparklies reminds the women of Central Oregon that earrings always fit.
Earrings by EML Sparklies
Erin Latham made her first piece of jewelry before she’d finished middle school. “I had a school dance to go to, and I didn’t want to buy my jewelry,” she recalled. “So I made a simple necklace to go with my black dress. That’s what started everything.”
Latham is the creative force and woman-power behind EML Sparklies, a Bend-based jewelry business that specializes in large-scale hoop earrings featuring natural gemstone beads. She makes necklaces and bracelets, too, incorporating mixed metals and beads from opals to labradorite to rose quartz.
Her creative journey may have begun in her hometown, Grants Pass, where she spent the first eighteen years of her life, but Latham didn’t start seriously making and selling her work until about six years ago. “I started selling jewelry to pay for my beads,” she said. “I called it my self-sustaining hobby.”
Erin Latham
In the early days, buyers were colleagues at St. Charles Medical Center, where Latham works full-time as an x-ray technician. Word of mouth about her work spread, and people began tracking her down in the halls. “They’d ask, ‘Are you the earring girl?’” she said.
She soon leased a booth in a Bend collective shop, a step towards formalizing a business. Latham and her mother had a longstanding joke, inspired by a scene in the children’s film The Secret of NIMH: while out shopping, one would declare: “I must have that sparkly.” The joke plus her initials became her endeavor’s name. Today, EML Sparklies is available at Hello Sunshine in the Old Mill District, Clementine in downtown Bend and White Buffalo in Madras.
Commercial access to her creations hasn’t stopped people from chasing her down in person. “I was at First Friday recently and someone tried to buy the earrings off of my head,” Latham laughed.
This kind of personal connection that can develop between Latham and her customers is what she especially loves about her side business. “I love helping people feel pretty,” she said. Earrings are her favorite creation because they are so varied and versatile. “Earrings make you smile, they make you feel good. You can wear earrings in any season with any outfits.”
Latham makes all her products on the living room floor of the home she shares with her fourteen-year-old son, pounding out metal forms on an iron railroad tie, mostly late at night. “It’s loud,” she said. “Luckily he’s a sound sleeper.” All her work is in brass or stainless steel, with semi-precious stones providing the sparkle. “My absolute favorite is labradorite,” she said. “It’s very dynamic in different colors and goes with everything.”
The colors and shapes of natural stones are her inspiration, as is the process and evolving techniques of making jewelry. “As I am making something, I take the concept and deconstruct it,” she said. “I think of new ways to twist it.” Designs evolve over time; many of her newer earrings have hinges to provide a pleasant swing. “I love kinetics.”
Latham came to Bend eighteen years ago to complete her final year of training as an x-ray technician at St. Charles and has been here ever since. Today, in addition to her duties as a tech, she also works as a clinical coordinator, supervising students from Oregon Institute of Technology in Klamath Falls who have come to Bend to train on the job as she did. “I have three students at a time working full-time under me,” she said. “I love making it a positive experience for them. I’m their advocate, cheerleader and giver of tough love when they need it. I love watching the year unfold for them and seeing how far they come from start to finish.”
Latham’s day job is a lot of responsibility, which is what makes it even more rewarding to go home at night and make pretty things for people to wear. “That someone chooses to spend their disposable income on something I sat on my living room floor and made with so much love—it’s very personal and gratifying.”
Make the most of your precious 5 p.m. to 9 a.m. time and try out one of these five micro-adventures in Central Oregon.
Summer goes by in the blink of an eye. While weekends are usually the best time to get out for adventures, there’s also a way to make the most of your after-work hours. Microadventures are a great way to make the most of your 5 p.m. to 9 a.m. time, especially in Central Oregon with such close access to wilderness.
Canoe camp at Sparks Lake
Start: 26 miles west of Bend at Sparks Lake (boat ramp) Canoe: Head toward the south end of the lake for campsites with open mountain views or explore one of the fingers for a more secluded site Payoff: Nothing beats a calm, glassy paddle in the early morning when most of the world is sleeping
Backpack to Lucky Lake
Start: 38 miles west of Bend at Lucky Lake Trailhead Hike: An easy 1.4 miles one way to the lake Payoff: A nice wooded lake perfect for warm evening swims and a leisurely morning exit
Backpack to Moraine Lake
Start: 27 miles west of Bend at The Green Lakes Trailhead Hike: A gradual 5-mile hike along a waterfall-laden creek Payoff: South Sister right in front of you makes for a nice breakfast setup
Bikepack up Tumalo Creek
Start: In Bend, directly from your office Bike: Head west on Skyliner Road and turn right on Forest Road 4606 (Brooks Scanlon Logging Road) for approximately 2.5 miles. Turn left on Tumalo Creek Road (if you cross Mrazek Trail, you’ve gone too far) and bike until you find a nice spot along the ridgeline Payoff: Open views of the Cascades (plus a downhill return in the morning)
Rain Plan: Bikepack to Tumalo State Park yurts (reserve ahead of time)
Start: In Bend, directly from your office Bike: Depending on your starting location, take either Johnson Road or O.B. Riley Road a handful of miles Payoff: Biking in the rain isn’t so bad if you have a warm spot to dry off afterward. Plus, your friends or family can be there waiting, with dinner and beer.
Enter to win a Mt. Shasta 2+ person CVT rooftop tent.
Home is where you park it. At least that’s the motto of Cascade Vehicle Tents (CVT), a Bend-based and family-owned company that brings consumers the best way to get off the grid and explore. Outfitting your car with all the necessities for adventure, CVT offers the latest models of rooftop tents and off-road trailers.
The entire prize package is valued at $1,895. The Mt. Shasta by CVT is a 2+ person tent with an extended vestibule for additional room inside the annex room, making it a 2 story roof-top tent. As a part of the Pioneer Line, this tent is equipped with 280-gram canvas rip-stop that is perfect for four-season camping.
The contest begins on July 1 at 12:01 a.m. and ends on July 15 at 11:59 p.m. For the complete list of rules, visit our contest policy page.
Share this article with your friends on Facebook, Twitter or email and receive additional entries for each of your referrals.
Camping doesn’t have to be a haul. Check out these camping spots all within a one-hour drive from Bend.
Camping on Skyliners Road
With summer heating up and the crowds starting to pour in, everyone’s itching to skip town for the weekend and head outside. Skip all of the fuss and take your pick from these ten easy-access spots within an hour drive from Bend. Whether you prefer relaxing by a rushing river or taking moonlight paddleboard trips on calm lake water, we have you covered.
Tumalo State Park
Only four miles northwest of Bend on the Middle Deschutes River and in close proximity to Sisters and Smith Rock State Park, the Tumalo State Park Campground is an optimal location for Central Oregon adventures. Be prepared for some serious glamping because this convenient site offers full restrooms and solar showers. There are twenty-three full hook-up sites, fifty-four tent sites and seven rustic yurts, but it can get busy in the heat of the summer, so make sure to reserve a campsite in advance. Relax in the park and enjoy a lazy float on a shallow stretch of the river or barbecue at one of the many picnic areas.
Driving time: 15 minutes Facilities: Restrooms, solar showers, water, ice and firewood during summer months Fees and reservations: $21/day for a tent site, reserve online in advance Open: Year-round, some sites closed seasonally
Skyliners Road
Looking for some convenient, no-fuss camping right in town? There are many dispersed campsites right off of Skyliners Road near the rushing waters of Tumalo Creek. Head up Skyliners Road and take the second turn on the right onto Brook-Scanlons Logging road, an unmarked, gravel road. Bear left when the road soon splits and continue on a dirt road until you cross a bridge over Tumalo Creek. Snag one of the few spots to the right of this bridge in close proximity to the water or continue up this road to find a large group campsite. This site sits on a clearing atop tall basalt cliffs and is a perfect spot to watch the sunrise. If these spots are taken, as they attract a lot of traffic in the busy summer months, set up camp at any clearing along the way and always remember to leave no trace.
Driving time: 25 minutes Facilities: No restrooms or water, dispersed camping Fees and reservations: Available on first-come, first-serve basis Open: Year-round
Sparks Lake
With astounding views of South Sister, Broken Top and Mount Bachelor, lush meadows and clear green-blue water, Sparks Lake is a camper’s dream. There are approximately twenty campsites around its shallow shores. Those accessible by car are limited and get scooped up quickly in the busy summer months. Your best bet is to hop on a canoe, kayak or paddleboard and transport your gear to one of the more secluded sites. For big groups, set up camp at one of the larger sites in one of the lake’s fingers on the eastern shore. These spots can also be reached by a hiking trail that starts at the day use area. Venture to the western shore to relax on sandy beaches and wake up to picturesque views of the mountains.
Driving time from Bend: 40 minutes Facilities: Boat ramp at day use area, no water or restrooms Fees and reservations: $5 Day Pass or NW Forest Pass for parking, no reservations Open: May-November, depends on winter closure of Cascade Lake Scenic Byway
Fall River Campground
Right outside of La Pine and thirty miles south of Bend, find a quiet campsite on the Fall River. The stream is spring-fed stream and flows into the Deschutes. There are twelve spacious sites situated near the water. The river is shallow, yet some of the clearest water in the area and well-known for fly fishing. The Fall River Trail starts at the campground, offering fantastic fly fishing and two-mile out and back loop. If looking to swim at South Twin Lake, pitching a tent at Fall River and making day trips to the lake is a great way to beat the South Twin crowds.
Driving time: 40 minutes Facilities: Toilets but no running water, campfire rings and picnic tables Fees and reservations: $10 per night for the first vehicle and $5 for each additional vehicle, reserve in advance online Open: Year-round
The Bivy @ Smith Rock
Live the dirtbag dream and pitch your tent next to the breathtaking 500-foot walls at Smith Rock. A short walk from the rocks, this site yields climbers and hikers alike from all corners of the world. While Smith Rock is a world-renowned climbing spot, it has an elaborate trail system also making it a destination for hikers. In addition to the exquisite views and convenience, this site boasts full restrooms, showers and drinking water. Campfires are not allowed due to high fire risk, however, picnic tables are scattered throughout the site to cook on. Sites are available on a first-come, first-served basis, so make sure to come early in the busy in the busy summer months.
Driving time: 45 minutes Facilities: Restrooms, shower ($2 for non-campers), water, recharging station Fees and reservations: $8 per person per night, includes a parking pass for next day, available on a first-come, first-served basis Open: Year-round
Little Fawn
This often overlooked campsite is tucked in the diverse conifer forest on the south end of Elk Lake. With thirty-two sites, many of which are suitable for large groups, it is this popular Cascade Lake’s largest campground. It is also the only the lake’s only campsite tucked away from the highway, giving it a feeling of tranquility and serenity. The site provides easy access to both Elk Lake and the family-friendly cove, Little Fawn. A quick paddle brings you to the larger lake where you can enjoy beautiful mountain views. Relax on the beaches at Little Fawn and enjoy water warmer and shallower than the larger lake. Little Fawn’s water level varies dramatically depending on the snow year, so be prepared for more of a marsh on low snow years.
Driving time: 50 minutes Facilities: Single-family and group sites, tent and RV camping, but no electrical hookups, restrooms and drinking water, picnic tables and campfires rings Fees and reservations: $16 for the first vehicle and $8 for each additional vehicle, reserve in advance Open: June to September
Scout Lake
The local swimming hole for Sisters residents, Scout Lake has a small ten-site campground. With both single-family and group sites, the campground is popular, so claim one of the smaller sites or make reservations early and bring the whole family. The site is located adjacent to the day use area where you can take a dip in the warm water and relax on sandy shores. Dogs are not allowed in the day use area, so consider leaving your furry friend at home. For sanitation and safety concerns, Scout Lake is one of the few recreation sites in the Deschutes National Forest where dogs are not allowed.
Driving time: 50 minutes Facilities: Restrooms and drinking water, picnic tables and campfires rings Fees and reservations: Minimum $18 per night, reserve online in advance Open: May to September
Metolius River
Cool off in Oregon’s coldest river at Riverside Campground along the Metolius River. Upstream from Camp Sherman and the majority of the other campgrounds, this site is tent-only and one of the lesser-developed sites on this river, adding to its allure; it is one of the more remote and tranquil campgrounds on this river. The site is approximately 100 yards set back from the river but still yields anglers from all over. The spring-fed river features rainbow trout, whitefish, bull trout and kokanee salmon. Hiking trails are also accessible from this location.
Driving time: 50 minutes Facilities: Toilets but no running water, picnic table and campfire ring with grill, tents only Fees and reservations: $12/first vehicle; $6/each additional vehicle, reserve in advance online Open: May to October
Paulina Lake
You can wade in the water from your campsite at Little Crater Campground on Paulina Lake, nestled in the Newberry Volcano’s caldera. Pitch a tent or bring the entire rig—there’s room. With this site’s close proximity to mountain biking on the Newberry Crater Rim Trail and the short hike to lakeside geothermal hot springs combined with opportunities to boat, swim or fish, there are activities for the entire family. In the busy summer months, this site is in high demand, so make sure to make reservations early. If this campground is full, try Paulina Lake Campground on the lake’s southwest shore.
Driving time: 1 hour Facilities: Restrooms and drinking water, picnic tables and campfires rings, boat ramp Fees and reservations: $16 per night, reserve online in advance Open: May to September
Crooked River
With sixteen campsites weaving along the Lower Crooked River Wild and Scenic stretch, the Chimney Rock Campground, located outside of Prineville, offers year-round views of steep basalt canyons and highly sought-after fly fishing. Among the nine campsites on this eight-mile stretch of federally protected water, this is the only campsite with both potable water and restrooms. The Chimney Rock Trailhead is adjacent to the campground, leading to a 2.6-mile round trip hike providing breathtaking views of the canyon and surrounding mountains.
Driving time: 1 hour Facilities: Restrooms and drinking water, group sites Fees and reservations: Available on first-come, first-serve basis, camping fees apply Open: Year-round
Microadventures are a way to squeeze in outdoor time in the summer.
On a recent Tuesday afternoon, I hopped in my car outfitted that morning with my trusty old canoe and camping gear and picked up my friend and photographer Nate Wyeth. Just over an hour later, we were dipping the Old Town Seranac (built for comfort, definitely not for speed) in the calm waters of Sparks Lake, a shimmering jewel in a string of lakes just off the Cascade Lakes Scenic Highway twenty-five miles west of Bend. For the next twelve hours, we were going to sneak in a midweek “microadventure.”
A handful of years ago, a friend and frequent adventure buddy introduced me to the idea of a microadventure. The concept of a weeknight outing that takes place between the hours of 5 p.m. and 9 a.m. immediately struck a resonant chord with me. After all, I live in Bend, a location known for quick access to the outdoors, wide variety of recreation opportunities and adventure tourism.
The introduction was sent by way of a video created by British adventurer, explorer and writer Alastair Humphreys. The goal, Humphreys states, is to encourage people to get outside and out of their comfort zone to a place they’ve never been. More specifically, a microadventure is one that is close, accessible, simple, short and easy. For a young father with a busy work schedule, lots of side projects and hobbies, this seemed to be a perfect fit.
“Above all, adventure is about energy, enthusiasm, ambition, open-mindedness and curiosity,” said Humphreys in his video. “You don’t have to have huge adventures all the time: I accept that we all have to pragmatically juggle our ‘real lives’ too. You can have a small adventure. A microadventure.”
Humphreys chronicled his year of microadventures nearly seven years ago, but the concept quickly gained steam in the United States. Fueled by the power of social media, the hashtag #microadventure has more than 90,000 tags and counting on the popular photo-sharing social network Instagram.
My first real microadventure was five years ago. Since then, I’ve had dozens of them ranging from bikepacking up to a forest shelter to backpacking a few miles into the woods for a spectacular weeknight showing of the Persied meteor shower. Most recently, though, I decided to rediscover the trip that began my own personal microadventure odyssey, a canoe camp at the beautiful and alluring Sparks Lake in Central Oregon.
Now I’ll admit that I’m guilty here of breaking one of Humphrey’s rules of microadventures: “Do what you normally do not do, and go somewhere you’ve never been.” Some places are worth repeating, however, and after finding the perfect camping site during the first weeknight trip in 2013, I decided I was okay with one asterisk on my microadventure resume. As we glided over the pristine waters on a brilliantly sunny evening, we felt like we were cheating the weekend. The beauty of Sparks Lake is no secret to residents of Central Oregon, and on any given weekend day there is nary a parking spot in the sizable lot around the boat ramp. The workweek is a different story, and we found ourselves one of only a handful of people enjoying the waters on a beautiful evening.
As we silently congratulated ourselves on our microadventure choice, we took in the views of the looming mountains in front of us. Still snowcapped South Sister shone in the crepuscular light, and Broken Top stood gallantly beside on the western horizon. Soon enough, we berthed the canoe behind a facade of lava rock and found one of many seemingly perfect spots to make camp and settle down to watch the sunset over the lake.
Words simply can’t describe some moments in nature. When the right combination of factors align, a warm contentedness washes over you, and you simply count yourself lucky that you are where you are in that particular moment in time. Sparks Lake in perfect light on a beautiful summer evening is one of these moments. For Wyeth, an accomplished photographer and avid nature seeker, this moment couldn’t be clearer as he grinned ear to ear while setting up his shots.
“Oregon is filled with so many spectacular places and so many are right at our fingertips,” said Wyeth. “Microadventures were made for this state.”
As the sun went down, we settled in, ate a quick meal and put on jackets for one last outing. Though it was now well past dusk, the calm, clear waters on a full-moonlit night begged for one more chapter in this weeknight outing. We slid the canoe into water, cracked open a couple of cold beers and idly paddled around the perimeter of the lake enjoying the summer night. We discovered we were one of only three groups camping on the lake.
The next morning, we rose with the sun and drank our coffee on the rocky ledge overlooking the water. The high desert air had a crispness about it, only hinting toward the warmer temperatures yet to come later in the day. Packing up our gear, we tried keeping our minds on the scenery around us and not on the workday ahead.
As we pulled back into town around 8:30 a.m., we still felt an energy from the microadventure. Being able to pull off a weeknight camping excursion and still make it to work before 9 a.m. feels like a mistress to your regular nine-to-five day. Though it’s your own time, it seems like you’re somehow cheating the workweek. And maybe you are. But your boss never needs to know.
For years yards were synonymous with lawns. That’s changing as more people are extending their relaxation and entertainment space beyond the four walls of their home. So how do you transform a backyard from space to a place? That takes a little magic.
For homeowner Paul Nicholas, magic happened when he found landscape designer Suzanne Day Audette to work with him on transforming the backyard in ways that would complement the Broken Top home’s architecture and divvy up space according to activities and visual preferences.
“When I bought the house, the outside didn’t seem that welcoming,” said Nicholas. The yard backs up to the golf course and originally had a lawn without much else of interest, except what he calls a “bad water feature.” He felt that removal of the grass and water feature would be more thoughtful of water usage and compatible with the desertscape. He had no specific ideas when he hired Audette, other than to build the backyard around activities he and his family enjoy and also incorporate hardscapes for people with mobility challenges.
To find the right designer, Nicholas bypassed several landscaping firms that saw his project as not much more than a patio. Newport Ave. Landscaping, which would eventually do the work on the yard, put him in touch with Audette for her vision and concepts. “Suzanne and I bonded instantly over art, ideas and outcomes,” he said. “Having a designer with a masters degree in landscape architecture with a sensitivity about who and how the space would be used made all the difference.”
Both Audette and Nicholas agreed that a dominating theme would be to contrast the human-made environment with the chaos of nature. This meant that the outdoor space would start with a formal patio to reflect the formal interior of the home, and then become more chaotic in meandering paths, a dry creek bed that replaced the water feature, and xeriscape (low water use) plants, shrubs and trees. “As you journey farther from the home, formalities start to disappear and disorderly nature takes over,” said Audette.
They also added a unique and difficult-to-accomplish fire feature set into the ground where it blends into the dry creek bed. “This is a pretty radical design for Broken Top,” Audette said of the many requirements they had to navigate to build it. Like other high-end developments in wildfire zones, Broken Top allows only gas-fueled fire features and asks homeowners to clear low-hanging limbs and use noncombustible rocks. In addition, Nicholas had to hook into the natural-gas line in his home rather than at the barbecue or propane tank. The cost of running a line from a home can range from hundreds to thousand dollars, according to Audette.
Nicholas believes the cost was worth it. When turned on at night—a feat accomplished by moving a couple of rocks aside to run the controls—the flames form a ring like a campfire. The gentle warming makes it great for a summer evening, he said.
Besides the firepit, the outdoor design includes a covered and built-in barbecue, refrigerator, counter and bar stools. There’s a meditation bench at the edge of the property and a table for playing cards. When the weather is too hot or cold, the covered patio just outside sliding doors provides a comfortable shelter for sitting and enjoying the yard away from the weather.
Nicholas, who works in informational technology, likes to paint large, bold and colorful paintings. In the perennial beds, Audette said she took cues from “the explosion of color in Paul’s paintings,” incorporating things like Paprika yarrow, Russian sage, daylilies, Shenandoah switch grass and blanket flower. A path of wandering stones leads visitors around the side of the house to a woodland garden of serviceberry, vine maple and rhododendron.
For Nicholas, the transformation from an ordinary backyard to a place where magic happens is complete. On many summer nights, he can be found grilling and entertaining outside and getting comfy around his unique firepit.
Group camping is my jam. Isn’t that a lot of work, they ask. Not really, I respond. With some advance planning and Google Drive spreadsheets, you can avoid the game of Subaru-packing Tetris or last-minute, fifty-item grocery runs. When everyone pitches in, everyone wins. I coordinate a stress-free annual trip to my remote mountain hometown for a few dozen friends coming from across a tri-state area as well as an annual pilgrimage to 4 Peaks with my string-music-loving, camping family of ten-plus. Here are some next-level hacks our crew has honed over the years.
1. Division of Labor
Wherever you put down stakes, the menu du jour will elevate the locale. To master group meals insert a little technology in the planning stage with a group spreadsheet that can be shared and edited in real time. Plan for two family-style meals per day: breakfast (more likely brunch at festivals) and dinner. In the meal portion of your spreadsheet, each family or two- to three-person subgroup signs up to cook an a.m. or p.m. meal on one day. Remember to include a column for meal theme. (It takes the olé right out of the festivities if you eat tacos four out of six nights.)
2. Kitchen Patrol
A stellar kitchen setup is clutch. The ideal dish system includes two large-yet-shallow plastic bins set on a long folding table. Put campsuds in one bin. Fill each with warm water from a solar shower. Air dry dishware on a microfiber towel. And, please, pack a sponge with a scouring pad. As with cooking responsibilities, consider rotating dish duty to ensure equity.
3. Go Green
Don’t leave the food pyramid behind when you leave civilization. Bodies still need vegetables. Flexible plastic cutting boards and one great chopping knife go a long way. You can show them how it’s really done by chopping, bagging and freezing fresh veggies in advance.
4. Keep Your Cool
Ice takes up precious cooler space. Instead, put dry ice in the bottom of each cooler. You must then add a layer of cardboard or the food will get freezer burn. The day before departure, put all the beer that is over six percent ABV in your freezer. (Physics prevents high-alcohol beer from exploding and the cold brews will supplement the dry ice.)
5. Let There Be Light
People are clumsy. Ten solar lights placed strategically around camp can prevent twice as many expletives being hurled at tent stakes, logs, coolers, etc. Do the math.
Sometimes you just want a taste of camping in the backcountry. Maybe a simple hike into the woods, a single overnight under the stars, coffee and breakfast by a lake and then a return home. Easy one-night backpack trips are good for the family, the beginner or those of us who don’t have quite the same spring in our step that we once did. Try one of these three trips for a sleepover in the woods this summer season.
Photo by Aaron Thomas
Teddy Lake
Teddy Lake is off easily accessed Cascade Lakes Highway, but it’s one of the more lightly trafficked trails in the area. The lake is about four miles from the Winopee Trailhead at Cultus Lake, 39 miles west of Bend on Highway 46. Choose a campsite in the trees just above the lake, take a swim before dark and then enjoy the seclusion as the sun sets over the mountain.
Distance: 8 miles roundtrip Hiking level: Moderate Parking: $5 day pass or NW Forest Pass at Winopee Trailhead at Cultus Lake Open: May to September
Little Three Creek Lake
Three Creek Lake is tucked at the base of the Cascade Range and Tam McArthur Rim, accessed from Sisters on the west side of the mountains. It’s known for an alpine ecosystem, clear blue waters and rocky beaches. Little Three Creek Lake is a short hike from Three Creek Lake, perfect for an easy backpack outing. Start your hike at the Driftwood Campground entrance at Three Creek Lake, sixteen miles west of Sisters via Forest Service Road 16. The trail to Little Three Creek Lake is 1.3 miles. Set up camp and take out the fishing pole for some evening trout fishing.
Distance: 2.6 miles roundtrip Hiking level: Easy Parking: $5 day pass or NW Forest Pass at Driftwood Campground Open: May to September
Sisters Mirror Lake
A favorite off of Cascade Lakes Highway is the trail to Sisters Mirror Lake, which connects to the Pacific Crest Trail and offers many variations in length from an out-and-back to a loop. Set forth from the Sisters Mirror Lake trailhead, thirty miles west of Bend on Highway 46. The hike features glimpses of lava flows, a forest of mountain hemlock, small streams and peekaboo views of South Sister. Set up camp at Sisters Mirror Lake, a shallow pool set in a large meadow, or one of the many smaller lakes that surround it, all near the intersection with the Pacific Crest Trail.
Distance: 6.6 miles roundtrip Hiking level: Moderate Parking: $5 day pass or NW Forest Pass at Sisters Mirror Lake Trailhead Open: May to September
Wake up next to one of the region’s pristine alpine lakes this summer.
Let’s get this out of the way first. There are no bad places for an evening paddle in Central Oregon—at least none that we know of. But some places just seem to have been made for slipping your canoe, kayak or paddleboard into the water at sunset and gliding across the surface as the evening glow embraces the fading day. Whether you are after world-class fishing, hot springs or just seeking a slice of solitude, there is a shore-side campsite waiting for you in Central Oregon. Here are some of our favorite destinations based on whatever floats your boat.
Lava and Little Lava Lake
The source of the Deschutes River, Little Lava Lake is one of more than half a dozen waterbodies on the Cascades Lakes Highway, southwest of Bend. A small campground with fifteen spaces is well maintained, but also heavily used. Those who do get a spot have prime access to paddling on this alpine lake that offers views of Mount Bachelor and other nearby peaks. The adjacent Lava Lake Campground offers additional camping and access to the larger of the two lakes, which is known for its excellent trout fishing.
Where: Lave Lake Campground Driving time from Bend: About one hour Open: Late May through mid-September Details: 44 tent and RV/trailer sites (reservable and walk-up), including some on the water. Boat ramp, firewood, drinking water, flush toilets, picnic area and parking area at the campground. Recreation: Fishing, swimming, paddling, hiking
Waldo Lake
Located between Bend and Eugene, Waldo Lake is one of Oregon’s largest lakes and one of the clearest in the Northwest, with visibility up to 100 feet below the surface on a calm day. A ban on gasoline motors and a speed limit of ten miles per hour for electric motors makes this lake a serene destination. Three campgrounds serve visitors, most of whom tend to wait until after the mosquito season peaks in June and early July before visiting. A popular singletrack mountain bike trail circumscribes that lake making this a popular spot for pedalers as well as paddlers.
Where: North Waldo, Islet and Shadow Bay campgrounds Driving time from Bend: About two hours Open: Late June through early October Details: 3 developed campgrounds with 200 sites, vault toilets and drinking water around the lake and 55 dispersed sites (walk-up only) Recreation: Swimming, paddling, boating with electric motors and under 10 m.p.h, hiking, mountain biking
Hosmer Lake
Not far from Lave and Little Lava Lake is Hosmer Lake, another paddler’s paradise with a small campground that makes a great basecamp for a weekend near the water. Veteran paddlers know that the way to experience Hosmer is by crossing the main lake and entering a serpentine channel that connects to an upper lake where visitors can drift against a dramatic backdrop of nearby Mount Bachelor.
Where: South and Mallard Marsh campgrounds Driving time from Bend: About one hour Open: Late May through mid-September Details: 23 tent and RV/trailer sites. Pit toilets are on site, but no drinking water Recreation: Fishing, paddling, hiking
East Lake and Paulina Lake
The Newberry National Volcanic Monument boasts two resorts and a bevy of recreation in the most unlikely of places: the belly of a dormant volcano. Paulina Lake offers multiple campgrounds as well as resort cabin and boat rentals and a shot at trophy brown trout (the previous state record was caught here). On the opposite side of the caldera, East Lake has camping along the southern and eastern shore. A large pumice beach at Cinder Butte Campground is a popular destination for families and offers access to the lake and its abundant trout and kokanee salmon. Undeveloped hot springs can be found on the shores of both lakes, including a popular soaking spot just a short walk from the East Lake Resort.
Where: Paulina Lake Campground, Little Crater Campground, East Lake Campground Driving time from Bend: About one hour Open: Late May through mid-September (check website for specific dates each year) Details: Tent and RV/trailer sites, including some on the water. Boat ramp, firewood, drinking water, flush toilets, picnic area and parking area at the campground. Recreation: Fishing, swimming, paddling, hiking, mountain biking
The juiciest and most flavorful local burgers in Bend and Central Oregon to enjoy in any season.
Walk down your street on any given evening and the scents of burgers on the grill waft in the breeze. Whether it’s a hot summer day or a chilly dark evening, a patty cooked to perfection and wedged between two halves of a bun with all sorts of condiments piled on top is always crave-worthy. If you’re not in the mood to grill up your own feast, Bend is rich with burger options. From burgers with beers, to burgers in your car, to meatless burgers, we’ve got you covered.
Pour House Grill
The Pour House’s Big Kahuna Burger which includes ham, pineapple and caramelized onions.
Just about every pub in town offers a burger. But not all pub burgers are created equal. My favorite is found at the Pour House Grill. The menu at this south-Bend pub is famous for smoked meats and generous portions. The Pour House’s Signature Burger is grass-fed house ground brisket and chuck, perfectly grilled to medium. Add anything from pulled pork to pickled jalapenos to a fried egg on top, and eat it up with a side of French fries, tater tots, mac salad or coleslaw. Beer pairing: Sunriver Brewing’s Fuzztail Hefeweizen.
Dandy’s Drive-In
Dandy’s may win in the charm category alone, with the servers meeting you at your car on roller skates. Besides those mouthwatering cheeseburgers and french fries, Dandy’s is known for its house-made fry sauce which has kept customers coming back since the drive-in began. Park at Dandy’s Drive-In and travel back in time for a nostalgic experience right here in Bend. There’s nothing better than a cheeseburger, french fries, fry sauce and a milkshake brought to you by a cheerful roller skating carhop. The retro vibe of Dandy’s radiates from its little pocket of happiness off Third Street in Bend.
Photo by Ely Roberts
Brother Jon’s Public House
Brother Jon’s Public House nails solid pub food accompanied by a long, frequently changing tap list in a casual, friendly location. Try the Fire Marshal Burger: two patties with bacon, pepper jack, habanero cheese sauce, pepperoncini and roasted jalapeños. Beer pairing: Double Mountain Vaporizor Ale.
Brother Jon’s Fire Marshal Burger, however, all of their burgers are a must-try.
The Hideaway Tavern
The Hideaway is a sports bar sheltering some of Bend’s best food. Try the Hideaway Burger on a Big Ed’s Texas toast bun. Beer pairing: Forget the craft brew—now’s your chance for a Pabst Blue Ribbon on tap.
Deschutes Brewery
The original Bend pub, Deschutes Brewery sports a signature burger made with a Barley Beef patty topped with pepper jack cheese on a brioche bun. Beer pairing: Black Butte Porter.
Blue Eyes Burgers & Fries
Blue Eyes Burgers & Fries has quickly become the go-to spot for smash burgers and it’s no wonder why. Here, you can kick back, soak in the nostalgic dinner vibe, and enjoy a fantastic locally sourced-burger. Sip on handcrafted cocktails and indulge in perfectly crafted smash burgers, fluffy buns, crispy fries and delectable soft-serve ice cream. Come for the food, stay for the atmosphere and soon find yourself becoming a regular.
MidCity Smashedburger
MidCity SmashedBurger is redefining what it means to enjoy a classic burger. This accessible food cart is all about combining retro with a fresh and fun twist. They start with 80/20 Oregon beef sourced from Painted Hills, then smash it flat beneath a cast-iron press, resulting in thin and crispy patties that are nothing short of mouthwatering. These burgers are covered in American cheese and generously slathered with their signature Smash Sauce, all nestled between Franz Bakery buns.
Mountain Burger
Mountain Burger is on a mission to transform the burger experience. By offering locally sourced ingredients and both meat and plant-based alternatives, they’re catering to a wide range of tastes and dietary preferences. Dining here means enjoying your meal in a friendly, full-service, colorful and comfortable atmosphere. Savor healthy salads and creative cocktails while supporting the burger joints’ mission to accelerate the world’s transition to sustainable dining.
Special Korean Bulgogi Burger with kimchi, pickled ginger, sambal, and aioli served at Mountain Burger | Photo by Tambi Lane
Willie Burger
Willie Burger is a delightful mom-and-pop burger cart that embraces the taste of simplicity. Their specialty lies in smash-style burgers that come standard with grilled onions, cheese and mouthwatering burger sauce. With options ranging from singles all the way to triples, there’s a burger for every appetite. They’ll be taking a short hiatus to welcome a new member of the family but look forward to seeing everyone in 2024.
The Row
The Bleu Diamond burger at The Row at Tetherow, topped with maple bacon and bleu cheese, practically has its own local fan club. Beer Pairing: The Bleu Diamond is served with IPAoili, so you’d better make it a Bend Brewing Co. Elk Lake IPA.
Sno-Cap Drive In
The beauty of the drive-in burger lies in its simplicity. Beef patty with melted cheddar cheese, onion, lettuce, tomato, maybe a pickle or two and some fry sauce between two potato buns. It’s nothing fancy, but that’s not the point. A drive-in burger is the kind of burger you crave on a road trip, or after a long hike and a dip in lake. Central Oregon has a stellar lineup of classic drive-in burgers. But Sno-Cap in Sisters, that iconic white, 50s-style building on the corner of the Western town, takes the prize, if only because the fresh milkshakes alongside it are truly the perfect pairings for a meal that tastes like childhood with each bite.
McMenamins
At Bend’s McMenamins Old St. Francis School location, the expedition elk burger is topped with coffee-bacon jam, black garlic aioli and white cheddar on a sesame brioche bun.
Tastee Treet
Tastee Treet is old school Americana at its finest. The neon signs outside make it look like it hasn’t changed since it opened, and thank goodness the hand-cut fries haven’t either.
Gary O’Connell of Summit Bank on banking local, working with small businesses, and why he keeps beer and kombucha on tap at work.
Gary O’Connell
Summit Bank has been recognized in the Top 100 places to work in Oregon two years running. Gary O’Connell, the Senior Vice President and Central Oregon Market President of Summit Bank, is here to tell us why Summit has such high employee retention rates and how it works with local businesses to provide jobs in the community.
Summit has been recognized in the Top 100 places to work in Oregon for the last two years. Obviously your employees are happy here. What are you doing to create that environment?
We feel the best workplace environment is where our colleagues want to be here and nobody feels like they have to be here. There’s a great deal of empowerment. We’re smaller than most banks in this industry, so we are able to be a little bit more flexible in our workplace, in our benefits and in our hours. The financial success has been attractive, but the way that works is we have colleagues who want to be here who are driving that success.
Summit Bank was conceived and launched in Eugene in 2004. What attracted Summit to the Central Oregon market?
A few years ago we started looking at the Central Oregon market and [during the recession] there were eight or more banks that were bought or left the market. So, we thought the community banking market was really underserved in Central Oregon and we thought there was a great opening for us to come in and expand our business model that we had started in Eugene. That means being local, being accessable, not having 1-800 numbers and making people feel welcome when they come in. The next largest bank is over thirty times bigger than we are. So, we feel like there’s a lot of runway to grow because we are relatively smaller.
Small banks are the backbone of any healthy local economy. What’s Summit’s lending philosophy?
Our lending philosophy is focused on lending to companies that provide jobs. Small businesses provide seven out of ten jobs in America and that’s roughly the same here in Central Oregon. It’s really fun to help businesses and get to understand them, so we can help them grow and provide more jobs. We’ve heard time and time again from business owners that they want a bank where the bankers understand their business and they can go talk to them when they need to discuss something important.
You just completed a remodel/addition of your headquarters off Colorado Avenue. Is this an indication that Summit is growing locally?
Yes. When we opened in 2015, we did not imagine that, by the end of 2017, we would outgrow our building and need to expand. We doubled our staff from last summer from six to twelve, so it has allowed us to provide more colleagues to provide better and faster service to clients. Unfortunately, it looks like we’re going to outgrow even this expansion by the end of this year. We’ll have to look again for the next expansion. We are looking at all options. It could include expanding this building or it could include another standalone location.
Congress recently acted to soften some of the Dodd-Frank rules that were enacted post-financial crisis a decade ago. How is that decision going to impact your business?
Probably, only marginally. The reason the impact won’t be as great is because as a smaller bank, we think very carefully about not trying to be everything to everybody. We also don’t engage in some of the most heavily regulated lines of business in banking that Dodd-Frank regulates. We stick to core banking services that really aren’t impacted by the Dodd-Frank revisions. What we are really looking at more than the Dodd-Frank would be changes to the regulations calling for increased capital requirements, which is the amount of funding and equity a bank needs to put into its operation that’s required by the regulators.
You have eighteen years of banking experience in Central Oregon. What’s the most rewarding part about your work and Summit’s role?
The most rewarding part is being empowered to make decisions in a way that allows us to be more responsive to clients. I love the work and I love the industry, but I don’t want to be part of an organization that sends clients to 1-800 phone numbers or call centers and sends their credit applications to areas outside of the market. It’s very important for us to be accessible and transparent to our clients and it’s very rewarding that our business model allows us to do that. We don’t think of ourselves as a bank. We think of ourselves as a medium-sized business that just happens to be a bank.
Make a bold prediction about Central Oregon’s economy that will come true in the next ten years.
Over the next ten years, we do anticipate long-term growth in the community, like we have had in the last ten years. I would say that the population could exceed 150,000 by 2030. Bend could become connected to Redmond. I would also say that we will have a vibrant, fully-operational four year university that has grown and flourished and helped the community become more successful too.
Anything else you would like to include that you think is relevant or important to our readers?
Well, I think what’s important to readers is that we appreciate the opportunity to be in this market. It’s very important to know your bank and to understand the value of a local banking institution and its importance to the community. We try and tell people to bank smart and bank local. We hope that message can get out further into the community because we are happy to grow with the community.
Win a copy of TheNew Camp Cookbook: Gourmet Grub for Campers, Road Trippers, and Adventurers by Linda Ly
Linda Ly and her husband, along with their toddler, love to take overnight road trips with “no plans, no schedule,” Ly said. “If there’s a squiggly road we see on a map, we’ll tend to take that instead of an interstate or highway.” Ly is the chef and blogger behind Garden Betty, a website devoted to slow cooking and minimal living, and she recently moved to Bend with her family. Their summer adventures across the West were the inspiration for The New Camp Cookbook, a collection of more than 100 recipes to be cooked and enjoyed outside. Though the recipes, which range from savory breakfasts on a skillet to foil-baked dishes over a fire, may seem daunting for a weekend camping trip, Ly insists that they are all easy to prepare away from the convenience of a kitchen. She includes hacks and tips throughout the book to make the cooking process easier, and created the recipes using as few dishes as possible to keep cleanup fast so you can get back to enjoying your trip. Created for car camping—Ly’s family motto is, “If it fits, bring it”—these recipes will elevate any camp meal.
Win a copy of The New Camp Cookbook: Gourmet Grub for Campers, Road Trippers, and Adventurers by Linda Ly.
The contest begins on July 1 at 12:01 a.m. and ends on July 31 at 11:59 p.m. Three winners will be chosen. For the complete list of rules, visit our contest policy page.
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In 2015, the American West reached an unprecedented environmental compromise to protect the greater sage grouse, a high desert bird with a drastically declining population. Two years later, the rug was pulled out from that plan, leaving an environmental community fuming and the small bird’s fate in question.
I looked out the back window of the truck and could see the last stars were still out. Below them, a faint outline of the mountains that surrounded us appeared in the distance. It was a little before 6 a.m. on an early spring day, and four of us were driving in a pickup truck along the winding frozen gravel roads of Hart Mountain National Antelope Refuge in Southeastern Oregon. Another passenger, Pam, was counting down the miles on our GPS so the driver, her husband Chris, would know when to slow down.
Through a series of miscommunications due to a lack of sleep, minimal coffee and sheer darkness, we were late getting through the U.S. Fish and Wildlife gate and still had a little more than five miles to drive to our stopping point, all before starting the mile-long hike through rugged sagebrush country to find our destination before first light. After reaching our stop, we bundled in layers of wool, puffy jackets and hats, quickly hopped out of the truck and started the trek.
Headlamps on and heads down, we navigated the frosted sagebrush, grass and rocks. I risked a few glances of the first hint of light creeping up over Beatys Butte in the distance, careful not to take my eyes off the ground for too long. Following our GPS, we hiked along a rock ridge, then scrambled up it and over, before the last quarter-mile over the lava rocks.
Finally, Chris stopped and set down his scope. We confirmed our location in hushed voices around the GPS, then took a moment to marvel at the sunrise and the 360-degree view of golden grass that tumbles over what is called the sagebrush sea. We brought our binoculars to our eyes and started scanning about 200 yards ahead. Sarah spotted the trademark white chest puffing up and down, then the unmistakable spiked and fanned feathers. A sage grouse. Then another bird is spotted. And another. We reached the lek. And I finally witnessed the thousands of years old mating ritual exclusive to the high desert.
We were far enough away for the sage grouse not to notice us watching. Unbeknownst to the sage grouse, much of the American West is also watching the small bird right now, as it is at the epicenter of a political controversy over public lands that spans across the high desert.
Rite of Spring
Chris and Pam Scranton are both retired teachers and have lived in Madras for twenty-two years. They saw the greater sage grouse for the first time in Millican, about twenty miles east of Bend, in 1995. They would stop there on their way to Eastern Oregon with their children to see the sage grouse at their leks each year. “Nobody was there, just us,” said Pam. “It felt like a rite of spring.”
From the Swedish verb meaning “to play,” a lek is sage grouse mating ground, usually found in a specific habitat in sagebrush country. Pam, Chris and their three children would watch the sage grouse, about the size of a large chicken, “display”, the scientific word for the puffed chests and fanned feathers strut that the male sage grouse do to impress females and, ideally, breed.
Chris said they saw about fifty males displaying the first time they went. Over the years, as word got out and more people arrived each spring to watch, the bird numbers dwindled as people got too close and the sage grouse stopped returning. “It’s not because [visitors] wanted to disturb them, I just don’t think they understood,” said Chris. Soon, due to the habitat disturbance, as well as other changes to the sagebrush steppe, the lek was gone. “It was rather sad to see it decline to the point of nothing.”
Chris and Pam were two of twelve volunteers on a three-day trip to count sage grouse in Hart Mountain with the Oregon Natural Desert Association (ONDA), a Bend-based nonprofit that works on public land and conservation issues east of the Cascades. The conservation of sage grouse is one of those issues, and one that, three years ago, had largely been resolved, or at least was on its way to be.
Fowl Politics
The Millican situation was unique because the leks were close to the highway and easily accessible to the public, but it is also a microcosm of what has happened to sage grouse across their historic range. It’s been a decades-long saga that has pushed them to the brink of extinction and to the forefront of a political battle over the intersection of private interest and public lands.
In 2015, a landmark environmental compromise was reached by almost every interest group, government agency and nonprofit that has a stake in public land throughout the eleven Western states. It was an unprecedented moment for wildlife conservation, said Paul Henson, the State Supervisor of U.S. Fish and Wildlife in Oregon. Henson has been involved with sage grouse almost the entirety his twenty-five years with the government agency in charge of habitat and wildlife monitoring.
The sage grouse saga began ten years earlier in 2005, when the sage grouse populations across the West were low enough for conservation groups to petition for the ground-nesting birds to be added to the Endangered Species List. The listing would have added broad protections for the species across the Western states where it is still found, but that was opposed by an alliance of farmers, ranchers and Western politicians. After a review, U.S. Fish and Wildlife determined a listing wasn’t warranted, but the agency “recognized that there was certain conservation concerns for sage grouse and sagebrush habitat that needed to be addressed,” said Henson.
Photo courtesy of Oregon Natural Desert Association
That decision was challenged by the environmental community, and between 2010 and 2015 a new management plan was created to address the threats to the species. “In Oregon and the other ten states, everyone rolled up their sleeves with sincere and good faith effort and developed plans at a federal level and the state level,” said Henson. Private landowners also played a key role in developing the plans, as a portion of sage grouse habitat is on ranches throughout the West.
At the end of it all in 2015, then Secretary of the Interior Sally Jewell recommended that the species did not merit an endangered species listing—if the plans were carried out. Though this sage grouse plan was not perfect, as I would be told countless times, it was considered a win for everyone involved, and for the sage grouse. Oregon Governor Kate Brown adopted Oregon’s version of the plan. After the celebrations faded, the work began and the sage grouse plan moved forward into implementation.
Then in the fall of 2017 things began to unravel. Ryan Zinke, a square-jawed former University of Oregon football player and Navy SEAL turned Montana congressman was appointed as Secretary of the Interior by the Trump administration. An avid outdoorsmen who had been endorsed by several environmental groups earlier in his political career, Zinke was charged with reviewing some of conservation plans rolled out during the Obama administration. Zinke wasted no time. He soon announced that the sage grouse plans, and a decade of work, would be reviewed and potentially amended. It came on the heels of Zinke’s plan to shrink several national monuments in the West such as Bears Ears in Utah and Cascade-Siskiyou in Southern Oregon, with the potential for increased mineral and resource extraction.
You could almost hear the collective sigh that reverberated across the West.
The Bird is the Word
About six months later, I arrived at Hart Mountain, a four-hour drive from Bend, in the afternoon on a clear day, though the smattering of snow on the roads reminded me that our late winter was far from over, despite the calendar inching forward. The wildlife refuge was established in 1936 to protect the American pronghorn, which gallop across the range in herds, but it shelters countless more species that have since declined in other spaces across the West. Part of its success is its sheer size. At 422 square miles, Hart offers critical habitat that spans from buttes to playa lakes to wide expanses of sagebrush and protects hundreds of plants and animals, including sage grouse.
I walked into the Oregon Department Fish and Wildlife bunkhouse to find the group of volunteers gathered. The sparse bunkhouse was a recent addition to the refuge, which has a handful of other offices and cottages from the 1930s, built to house seasonal wildlife biologists doing data collection and volunteer groups like ONDA. The tone of the trip was largely excited, perhaps a little uncertain. Some, like Pam and Chris, had experienced counting sage grouse before. Others in their twenties trying to break into a wilderness career were there to gain field experience. There were avid birders and outdoorsmen, and a couple retired science teachers. We were there to count sage grouse leks for a weekend as volunteers for U.S. Fish and Wildlife. It’s an easy enough task, save for the 4 a.m. alarms and frigid temperatures.
Sarah Imholt, 40, joined the trip. She’s a librarian at Oregon State University and described herself as a “bird person.” This trip was the first time she saw a sage grouse lek. “I got too excited and couldn’t do any counting for awhile,” she said after coming back from the first morning of data collection. “You can hear them making the glooping sounds. They’re just puffing their chests out and their tails are totally fanned out. They’re moving like little tanks, just struttin’ around.”
The greater sage grouse fits in well with sagebrush landscape. Their dark feathers stretch to their feet, and their white and brown speckled tails spike up in contrast to the yellow bunches of grass. The white chests, distinctly a feature of the males, puff up and make a sound like large drops of water when they fill up with air, and the grouse will sometimes bump their chests into each other while sparring at the leks to impress females.
“Sage grouse lekking behavior is one of the most magnificent natural phenomena we have in Southeastern Oregon,” said Lee Foster, the sage grouse conservation coordinator for Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife (ODFW). Sage grouse leks are important because the birds return to them year after year for generations. “There’s a lek in Idaho that goes back eighty years. Some of those older leks have indications that Native Americans were hunting those leks,” said Foster.
One of the reasons sage grouse have become the poster child for sagebrush conservation is that their leks, set in wide open spaces on the ground among sagebrush, make them easy to spot and their populations easy to monitor. It also makes them susceptible to natural predators like ravens, golden eagles, bobcats and coyotes. “They really face every predator out there,” said Foster.
Sage grouse also need certain grasses native to sagebrush country as well as large swaths of uninterrupted habitat because they migrate between those areas, with a range in Oregon that has been documented at up to thirty miles. This is all to say that a variety of factors need to combine and work in harmony for sage grouse to thrive. If sage grouse are thriving, it’s a good indication that the 350 other species, animal or plant, that inhabit sagebrush country are thriving and the ecosystem is healthy. But as the high desert in the West has been infiltrated and exploited, new threats have arisen, and sage grouse are far from thriving.
Home on the Range
There are currently fewer than 500,000 sage grouse in the West, down from an estimated 16 million before the decline began in the mid-20th century. That’s a 97 percent decline in just a little over half a century. The primary reason is a dwindling habitat due to a trio of factors that all play into each other: invasive annual grasses, the encroaching juniper on lower elevation areas and wildfire.
Those three factors have contributed to the overall decline of the sagebrush ecosystem. Of the pre-settlement 153 million acres of sagebrush steppe, 106 million acres currently exist. Home to more than 350 species of flora and fauna, the high desert country is a vast landscape of varieties of sagebrush and sage grouse, but also wildflowers, American pronghorn, golden eagles, pygmy rabbits, coyotes, juniper and more. The ecosystem’s decline is pinpointed on overgrazing and introduced species of plants like cheatgrass that combined allow for more frequent and devastating wildfires. It’s considered one of the most imperiled ecosystems in North America, according to U.S. Fish and Wildlife.
The 2015 sage grouse management plan wouldn’t have reversed the decline of the sagebrush steppe, but it would have helped to preserve what remains. For some in the conservation community the plan didn’t go far enough.
“In the end, it was a marginally acceptable package of political compromises on what is effectively a scientific effort to do species conservation,” said Dan Morse, the conservation director of ONDA. Zinke’s announcement essentially put the conservation plans in limbo and was especially upsetting to groups like ONDA.
“The plan that came out in 2015 was far from perfect,” said Morse. “From our perspective there were things that could have been stronger for sage grouse conservation, but that if it were implemented rigorously and quickly, then it might be adequate for conserving a species. When these more recent plans to re-amend the sage grouse plan came out, we were very disappointed and frustrated that effectively the deal that had been reached was being re-negotiated by certain interests.”
In Oregon, much of the negotiations were with landowners and ranchers in Southeastern Oregon who rely on public lands to graze their cattle. Tom Sharp is the president-elect of the Oregon Cattlemen’s Association and has worked on the sage grouse issue for almost a decade providing conservation efforts on private lands, particularly in southeastern Oregon. For ranchers, the stakes in coming to a compromise about sage grouse and preventing a listing were high.
Photo courtesy of Oregon Natural Desert Association
“If we thought what happened to the timber industry in the 1980s was bad,” said Sharp, referring to the controversy over the Northern Spotted Owl Endangered Species listing, “well, it would be an order of magnitude greater with the sage grouse listing.” Sharp acknowledged that the ranchers were somewhat reluctant to forge an agreement with the federal government over the plans, but were largely on board to avoid a listing. The oft-cited mantra was, “What’s good for the bird is good for the herd.”
Andrew Shields, a wildlife biologist for Roaring Springs Ranch in southeastern Oregon, echoed Sharp’s statements. “Ranchers push back on some of these plans,” said Shields. “It’s not because they don’t like sage grouse or healthy rangeland, it’s because they’re so tied to the land and they care deeply about the land and wildlife, and a lot of the time, the things they’ve done work. That’s why there’s sage grouse there.”
In early May, the BLM released the draft environmental impact statement for sage grouse management and habitat. Overall, there were minimal changes to Oregon’s sage grouse conservation plan. In Oregon, a total of 22,000 acres, an area roughly the size of the city of Bend, previously designated as research natural areas, would be open for livestock grazing. From an environmentalist perspective, it fared better than other states such as Nevada, Wyoming and Idaho, which now may face more oil and gas drilling potential, development identified as a key threat to sage grouse. The BLM is accepting public comments until August 2 on the plan.
The proposed amendments are welcomed by Oregon’s cattle industry. “We believe that a reconsideration to amend these federal plans is necessary based on new science that came out that says properly managed livestock grazing is not a threat to sage grouse but can be compatible or beneficial to sage grouse species,” said Sharp. Not everyone agrees that grazing can be a benefit to sage grouse, but most scientists say that grazing, done properly, doesn’t have to interfere with sage grouse populations.
Given that the sage grouse is a rangewide species, meaning that its habitat crosses state lines, the federal consistency of the sage grouse management plan was integral to the success of the bird. These amendments coming state by state threaten that.
“[The federal plan] has a degree of consistency across the range,” said Morse. “If we decrease that consistency, we are doing what science tells us not to do.”
Conservationists are already pushing back. In late April, environmental groups sued the current administration for allegedly ignoring sage grouse protection policies and selling oil and gas leases in 475 square miles in Montana, Wyoming, Utah and Nevada. If the administration continues to prioritize energy development to the point that threatens more habitat on public land, it wouldn’t be surprising to see more lawsuits in the future.
At The Hart Of It
In Oregon, where there is less pressure to develop gas leases, the partnerships have more or less remained intact. Henson at U.S. Fish and Wildlife pointed out while the the political back and forth is common, the people on the ground keep moving forward. “The biggest message is even through an election and through some of the other challenges we’ve had like the Malheur occupation, where there was a lot of emotion and political acrimony, the partnership in Oregon for sage grouse conservation has remained really strong.”
Camped out in the pre-dawn hours on Hart Mountain, waiting patiently for an elusive bird to appear from the darkness, the politics of the sage grouse fight can feel a world away. “The fundamental reason [I joined this trip] is I spend a lot of time outdoors. It’s an important part of my life. The landscape, the things on this landscape—I value it. I want people to value it,” said Sam Miller, a retired science teacher from Eugene. “I don’t want to get too political here. I’m trying to find a way to say it without flames coming out of my mouth,” he continued while we were talking at Hart Mountain. “Our votes matter because ultimately that translates to the leadership we either have, or don’t have, and the direction that leadership takes. If we care about these kinds of places, then we need to make sure we support people who have that point of view.”
If sage grouse populations don’t return, it doesn’t mean that just another species of bird is lost. It means the sagebrush steppe—an entire ecosystem—has been lost. It means that millions of acres of high desert country have become vulnerable to the epic wildfires that have the potential to devastate the landscape, homes, economies and cities. It’s a lot of weight on the wings of one bird.
Witnessing sage grouse at the lek “feels really lucky,” said Imholt. “[Sage grouse] have been doing this for God knows how many thousands of years and they’re still doing it even though we’re screwing everything up around them.” At Hart Mountain at least, “this little sphere of existence is right, and these little birds are doing what they are supposed to do,” she said.
We woke up on the last morning to five inches of snow on the ground and a bluebird sky. By the time my group had reached the last lek, the birds there had already moved on, perhaps flushed out by the coyote we spotted in the distance. There was still evidence of their dance written on the snow—light touches of wings moving around in circles and patterns left behind in the last snowfall of the season where their feathers had dragged. The sage grouse would probably return to the lek to do their dance again the next morning, and hopefully their next generation would return the following spring. Our only job is to give them the space to continue and the chance to keep coming back.
Rock chucks, or yellow-bellied marmots, are a common sight among the boulders in Bend’s Old Mill District. Continue reading this post by a naturalist from the Sunriver Nature Center, PNW Naturalist.
Rock chucks are a beloved sign of spring in Central Oregon. To many, their emergence from winter hibernation signals the end of frigid weather and the arrival of warmer days and sunny skies that usher in the outdoor adventure season for Central Oregonians. But what exactly are these creatures?
You might be surprised to find out that the rock chuck, or the yellow-bellied marmot, is a ground squirrel. A large-bodied, plump and fuzzy ground squirrel.
Named for their typical choice of habitat, rock chucks prefer to make their burrows under rocky cropping near a consistent food source that can satisfy the hunger of even the roundest and most stoutly built individual. They inhabit much of the Western United States, often found in high elevation areas with open land such as sagebrush or meadows.
Rows of rock chucks can be seen along the roadsides in the Old Mill District, where perfectly groomed lawns, a primary food source for these marmots, allow for a keen view of any potential predator. Although the brunt of their diet consists of herbivorous eats, rock chucks are actually omnivorous opportunists who will take advantage of feeding upon insects and even bird eggs that may be precariously laid by killdeer or nighthawks on the ground. In the Old Mill District, however, you’ll probably just see them snacking on grass. On a sunny but cool early Sunday morning, this is where I would spend my time observing.
A naturalist is taught the art of observation, reading the landscape and natural behaviors of their subject in a broad sense and in an attempt to gather specific information. This can take hours of painstaking notes and illustration. This is not a method I would suggest for our friend the rock chuck. There is not much activity to speak of, as a matter of fact. Upon even the earliest moments of my observations, I can assure you that rock chucks do almost exclusively what you have likely viewed in your short moments of seeing them as you drive by. They eat. A lot. Moving from one square patch of grass to the next, seeming to pay little mind to us. But their face-down tendency towards constant caloric intake may be their most enduring quality.
For spending much of their time only feet from the hustle and bustle of Southwest Bond Street, rock chucks are surprisingly skittish. Within as little as ten yards’ distance from them, they each would quickly scurry up the hills and into their burrows, easily escaping my intrusion. This is a typical tactic used by the rock chuck to escape predation. Although it is nearly inaudible by human ears, rock chucks even sound the alarm to their fellow rock chuck family members when they come across any natural predators, which would most likely be dogs and eagles in the Old Mill District.
The rock chucks are famous in Central Oregon. Enduring and iconic, the rock chuck remains a delightful sight along the roadsides of the greater Central Oregon area. Not much to say, and even less to show. But perhaps that’s precisely what we find most charismatic about them.
Author Jason Chinchen aims to unify the Central Oregon bouldering community with his new guidebook and the High Desert Climbers Alliance. [Photo of Maitreya Sriram climbs “Bulletproof,” a V5 at Widgi Boulders. Courtesy of Central Oregon Bouldering.]
Bouldering is a style of climbing on smaller rock formations and uses “crash pads” as protection instead of ropes or harnesses. It started out as a means to warm-up and practice for rope climbing. Over time, however, with the spread of gyms, competitions and media coverage, it has evolved into its own subcategory of climbing. While climbers have been enjoying this sport in Central Oregon for decades, up until last year, information about Central Oregon’s many bouldering spots spread through word of mouth from climber to climber.
Last fall, Jason Chinchen, a man of many trades including woodworking and graphic design, authored and designed Central Oregon Bouldering, the first guidebook for Bend’s bouldering areas. The book has more than 1,200 climbing routes or “problems” at ten areas near the Deschutes River Trail and off Cascade Lakes Scenic Byway.
Chinchen has lived in Bend intermittently since the ’90s, originally moving to Central Oregon to climb at Smith Rock. Over the years, he has also lived in Bishop, California, the epicenter for bouldering in the United States. There, the climbing community rallies around the sport and has a developed guidebook with more than 2,300 routes. Upon returning to Bend, Chinchen found the outdoor climbing community here underdeveloped.
“When I came back here, the climbing community was really focused around the climbing gym and around Smith Rock, and there were very few people bouldering,” said Chinchen. “I tried to find people to go out and climb with me, but I had a really hard time.”
When word got out about the book being published, there was some pushback. Local climbers argued that the book would bring more traffic, increasing risk of misuse and expose spots that had formerly been well-kept secrets. Alan Watts, the developer of many Smith Rock routes and the author of the Smith Rock climbing guidebook, explained this dilemma in the foreword of Chinchen’s book.
“Bouldering in Central Oregon has long been shrouded in mystery, a closely held secret protected by tight-lipped locals,” said Watts. “Guidebooks are a paradox. On the one hand, there’s little question that they bring far more people into areas to climb once enjoyed by a privileged few. But on the other hand, the influx of people sparks development and brings fresh blood and energy to scenes that might otherwise grow stagnant.”
Mike Rougeux, the Climbing Program Director at Bend Endurance Academy (BEA), argued that the book continues the tradition of passing information down between climbing groups but in a different format.
“Either someone was going to write a guidebook for the bouldering in Bend and it would be someone that wasn’t from Bend or someone who was a part of the climbing community,” said Rougeux. “I think it was better that it was someone who was part of the community.”
Rougeux said that the book has solidified and legitimized this outdoor sport in Central Oregon and established boulderers as actual user groups. These areas have seen more traffic recently, not just because of the book but because of the growth of Bend. The book includes ten areas, so instead of climbers being concentrated at a few of the more well-known spots, it actually spreads them out.
After publishing his book, Chinchen helped establish the High Desert Climbers Alliance (HDCA), a nonprofit dedicated to working with land managers to protect these areas and mitigate any problems caused by increased traffic. Newly formed, HDCA has taken on the responsibility of protecting all rope climbing and bouldering in Central Oregon aside from Smith Rock, which has its own organization.
HDCA is now working with the Forest Service and has coordinated trail work plans at Meadow Camp, an area along the river with both rope climbing and bouldering. Rougeux is one of HDCA’s four officers, in addition to working with BEA. He is currently working with Central Oregon Trail Alliance (COTA) on the mountain bike trail being rerouted through the Widgi Boulders, near the Widgi Creek Golf Club.
“The biggest thing for us right now is putting the pieces in place for the continued growth of the sport and the growth of Bend,” said Rougeux. “We are trying to make sure climbers are represented in the community.”
Both the book and HDCA were created to bridge divides in the community.
“When you have a community that’s unified, we can get things done,” said Chinchen. “I think that my part has been done to give a central view and something for the community to gather around.”
Photo of Trevor Roosen climbing “Hieroglyphs,” a V4 near the Depot, courtesy of Central Oregon Bouldering
Grab your climbing shoes and chalk bag and head out to these locals’ favorite bouldering spots in Bend. Looking to skip the Smith Rock State Park summer heat and crowds or squeeze in an evening climbing session after work? There are boulders scattered across Central Oregon begging to be climbed and, with the recent publication of Central Oregon Bouldering, these spots are more accessible than ever. Check out these local climbers’ picks for the best areas to boulder around Bend.
Bouldering Term Cheat Sheet
Bouldering: A style of climbing utilizing “crash pads” rather than ropes or harnesses on relatively small rock formations. Approach: The hike or walk to get to a climbing area. Problems: Bouldering routes or projects Traverse: Climbing left or right instead of straight up, oftentimes lower to the ground V0-V13: The rating system used in the bouldering, with a V0 being the easiest and V13 being the hardest.
Trevor Roosen | Route Setter at Bend Rock Gym
“I’d say one of my favorite spots in town is ‘Mile Marker 5’ up Skyliners Road. I like that spot because it is always in the shade and perfect for hot summer days. There is a small concentration of problems, but they are all very high quality. There is a wide range of difficulties and most problems have nice, flat landings.
Tick Ranch has some cool boulders in a pretty rad setting next to Tumalo Creek. The boulders are big chunks that have fallen off of the big cliff band above. The cliff above is about thirty-feet- to forty-feet-tall and has some rad four- and five-bolt-long sport routes. It sits in the sun for most of the day, so it can be very warm in the summer.
The Depot is a cliff line right on the Deschutes in town. It gets shade almost all day and really cool air because of the close proximity to the river. Most of the boulders here are really tall, like fifteen feet. Fun fact, the Depot has one of Oregon’s hardest problems, a V11 called ‘The Goblin.’”
Mile Marker 5: Dirt parking lot on the left side of Skyliners Road at the 5 mile marker, 5-minute approach Tick Ranch: Off Skyliners Road along Tumalo Creek, open seasonally from March 1 to December 1, up to 15-minute approach The Depot: Off the Deschutes River Trail on river right, 15- to 25-minute approach from Farewell Bend Park
Mike Rougeux | Climbing Program Director at Bend Endurance Academy
“Mount Bachelor Village boulders are really good for newer climbers because there’s a super long traverse. There’s some stuff that’s a little bit lower, so you don’t have to feel like you’re committing to hard moves up high. It’s right on the river, so you can’t really beat the scenery.
Photo of Mike Rougeux courtesy of Central Oregon Bouldering.
The Widgi Boulders are great. There’s a lot of hard stuff there, but there are some easier climbs there that are getting more traffic now because of the Central Oregon Bouldering book. People used to go out there and be like ‘There are only these climbs with chalk on them and they are hard’ because that’s what all the people were climbing. Now there are people who are newer to climbing and they are going out there and revisiting some of the older V1s and V0s. There’s great boulders out there with decent landings.”
Mount Bachelor Village Boulders: Off the Deschutes River Trail on river left, 15- to 25-minute approach from Farewell Bend Park The Widgi Boulders: Turn at the dirt road across the Cascades Lakes Scenic Byway from Widgi Creek Golf Course, park at end of road next to boulders
Claire Christensen | Boulderer in Central Oregon
“I first started climbing last summer out at Meadow Camp on ropes but quickly bought a crash pad so I could go out solo. I was immediately hooked on bouldering at Meadow Camp because of how beautiful and serene it is. It’s so rad to be able to listen to the river while I’m climbing but also being far enough off trail that it feels like you have the whole forest to yourself.
The problems start at the parking lot and stretch all the way down the cliff line for a couple miles. The rock is volcanic, so it can be a little hard on the fingers sometimes, but offers cool finger pockets, crimps and cracks. There are lots of problems that are short and safe and also a lot of high ballers for those who are a little braver.”
Meadow Camp: Park at Meadow Camp Day Use Area, $5 Day Pass or NW Forest Pass required, 2- to 20-minute approach depending on what boulders you choose.
It’s a tough competition for the best fish tacos in Bend. In terms of culinary trends, the world has already reached peak taco. It happened sometime between the invention of the ChocoTaco and the first time someone put kimchi on a pulled pork taco. Today, it’s hard to go to a restaurant or food truck that hasn’t put their spin on the street-style taco. Perhaps not surprising given Bend’s burgeoning reputation as a foodie destination, we have some great options in town. Since nothing says summer quite like scarfing tacos down on a deck under the sun and washing it all down with a cold beer, here are some favorites to try.
Around for over two decades, Parilla is a staple for Tex-Mex-fusion. Parilla owner Jeff Dearing added the fried fish taco to the menu in 2002. Dearing said the breading has Hawaiian influences and the sauce drizzled over the top includes Japanese fish sauce, which gives it its flavor and spice. A lot of thought went into finding a sustainable fish to use and they settled on a catfish recommended by Seafood Watch, an organization of the Monterey Bay Aquarium. Parilla also cuts the fish by hand, a detailed touch that goes into this dish, and they worked with their food supplier to find the handmade flour tortillas they use. As for the corn salsa, Dearing said that using that salsa is part of what makes Parilla unique: incorporating its core ingredients into each culinary concoction. Bonus: You can get the fish tacos as a burrito or as a burrito bowl. Whichever way you choose, pair it with the $1 PBR to dine like a local.
Speaking of pairing tacos with beer, two of our craft breweries have produced a great alternative to the classic burger-and-fries order. Sunriver Brewing delivers a solid option with the grilled rockfish tacos that scream for the Fuzztail hefeweizen to wash them down. The trio comes with a red salsa on the side, but you really don’t need it. The fresh slaw and drizzled sauce—a chipotle aioli and a cilantro-lime sour cream—over the top takes care of any condiment cravings.
Worthy Brewing is a worthy opponent in this game (and will soon open a restaurant downtown entirely devoted to tacos and beer). The flagship location recently revamped its menu and now offers a steelhead taco, which is a game-changer in Bend’s taco scene. While steelhead, an anadromous trout in the Pacific Northwest, is known for its strong flavor, the flavors aren’t overwhelming in this dish. The price point is a bit higher, but the kitchen doesn’t skimp on servings. A guacamole base is topped with the steelhead, fresh cole slaw and a chipotle aioli drizzle. They recommend to pair it with a pale ale, but in the summer, opt for the lighter Kolsch or pilsner.
We’d be remiss if we didn’t include El Sancho, arguably the leader of the taco scene in Bend. Offering almost a dozen different styles of tacos to choose from, El Sancho has perfected what Bendites and visitors crave when it comes to the street-style taco. Next time you’re there, suppress your urge to order chicken, carnitas or barbacoa (for the umpteenth time) and try the grilled mahi mahi tacos. (A quick note: mahi mahi is not, as some people believe, shark. It’s a tropical dolphinfish also known as dorado that has tons of flavor.) Added to the menu when El Sancho opened their brick-and-mortar in 2015, the grilled mahi mahi tacos were an intentional choice to create a healthier fish taco option in Bend, said co-owner Jon Barvels. For this taco, it’s the slaw that separates it from the rest of the pack.
And while we’re on the subject of former food trucks, Spork also has a spicy and crispy fish taco unlike any other in town. The fusion-style cuisine is a must-try when in town. Its tacos are reasonably priced for their size and the flavors are on point. Similar to Parilla’s, Spork’s fish taco uses fried catfish. With just the right amount of spice from the chili mayo and jalapenos, it perfectly fits in with Spork’s eclectic and addicting menu.
In 2015, Anna Soens, a 29-year-old wildlife biologist from Idaho, had been planning to climb Mount Hood with her dad when she free-fell thirty feet while climbing indoors and was left partially paralyzed from the waist down. This May, she and her dad set out fulfill their goal and summit the peak together.
There had been no guarantees when we set off for the summit of Mount Hood, which towers above the rest of Oregon at 11,250 feet. As my dad and I kicked exhausted steps into the ice just below the top, the rest of our team cheered from above. Glimpsing the true summit as we emerged from the narrow chute called the Pearly Gates was the first moment I was sure that we were going to make it. Two years earlier, doctors told me that I’d never walk again, let alone climb a mountain.
A week before Christmas in 2015, I accidentally failed to clip in while rock climbing solo at a gym in Portland and free-fell more than thirty feet to the ground. The impact pulverized my lowest thoracic vertebrae and left me with paralysis from the waist down. A few days after my fall, I slowly thumbed through a copy of Bill Mulee’s Mt. Hood Climber’s Guide. I jacketed the book in a festive sleeve and scribbled “Dad” across its surface. For a brief moment I allowed my daydreams to indulge visions of climbing Hood, something my dad and I had been planning to do together the following spring. When I opened my eyes, a stark hospital room brought me back to a suffocating reality. My world was much different now.
Amid surgeries to repair my back and a shattered wrist, Christmas Day arrived and my family squeezed into my hospital room in an effort to carry on our holiday traditions. Our stack of presents dwindled until just one remained. As I handed it to my dad, I tried to explain that I had bought the book a long time ago. That even though I fell, and even if it took an extra year or two, we would still reach the iconic peak together. That even though they could only really twitch right now, my legs would faithfully carry me down trails and up mountainsides again. But of all those things that I tried to say, the only thing I managed to utter was a tear-filled, “I’m sorry.”
I spent a year after my accident relearning how to do everything from putting on shoes to driving a car. I questioned my identity, which was linked to remote landscapes that I could no longer reach. I wondered about my future, given a past that was built on perpetual movement. I learned how to approach and accomplish old tasks differently and slowly built strength in muscles that were neurologically impaired and atrophied from the two months lying in hospitals. Restoring my independence, confidence and hunger for big things, which I rely on to chase lofty dreams like climbing Hood, required outsider perspective and experience.
Through friends, I found Oregon Adaptive Sports (OAS), a nonprofit based in Bend. They got me on an adaptive mountain bike for the first time, returned me to Smith Rock to climb and took me from the bunny hills to my first black diamond runs in a monoski (a molded seat mounted to a single ski that allows me to ski while seated). My closest friends can now be found within OAS’s community of adventure chasers, and through them, I’ve reclaimed the identity that was radically shaken when I fell.
While I spend the majority of my time in a wheelchair for practicality and efficiency, I can walk short distances with leg braces, crutches and a gait that resembles Frankenstein’s monster. But my knees that once hauled packs of ropes and climbing gear up gnarly talus fields can no longer bend against gravity. My leg braces disguise the fact that my calves and ankles are silent, ready for messages from my brain that my spinal cord can no longer relay. Still, climbing Mount Hood remained a dream that never quite died.
Our marathon effort to reach Oregon’s tallest peak began a full year ago—organizing, training, fundraising and developing specialized gear for an ascent with little precedent. It’s been two and a half years since my vow to climb Hood was renewed from a hospital bed, more in desperate longing than as a sincere promise. But that vow persisted through broken bones, damaged nerves and an uncertain future, and this spring that promise finally made it to the slopes of Mount Hood where it belongs.
In late May, with thirteen enthusiastic friends recruited to haul my monoski and other gear, we set off from Timberline Lodge to attempt Hood’s popular South Side Route. Alternating between using specially-designed crutches and crawling on hands and feet, my progress was slow but steady. Nearing our basecamp at 9,600 feet, my 70-year-old father confessed surprise at how thin he found the air and how much effort he was exerting. As the sun set above the clouds and winds steadily gained strength, we pitched our village of tents, shared a pot of curry and hunkered in our nylon shelters for the night.
Summit day dawned. We rolled out of our tents and continued upward with thawing excitement in unyielding wind. Affected by the altitude and a heavy pack, my dad’s pace slowed and his breaks became more frequent and desperate. When we got to the crevasse just below 11,000 feet, he sat on a mound of snow and tearfully whispered in my ear that he wasn’t going to make it. He had worked out hours a day, six days a week for a year leading up to the climb. He had done everything he could. But he had been climbing at his max for hours and the steepest section was still ahead. I hugged him tight and told him that it didn’t matter. We had already accomplished what we both had doubted was possible. We were on Hood together despite everything.
Anna and her father after summiting Mount Hood
He was silent for a moment, then his breathing abruptly calmed. He stood up and said he was going to keep climbing. I questioned him, but a stubbornness in him, that I recognize within myself, steeled him. We continued on, me haplessly bear-crawling and him with an exhausted but determined shuffle.
We could hear the cheers of our team as we emerged from the infamous Pearly Gates and trudged our way up the final slope to the summit. We made it. On May 29, my dad and I, surrounded by friends, stood on the top of Hood together, overlooking the far corners of Oregon from an unrivaled perch. From our high vista, mountain peaks beckoned across the horizon.
Lauren Hough was traveling around Bend with her classmates doing a singing Valentine program when the news came out about the mass shooting at Stoneman Douglas High School in Parkland, Florida. Though she wouldn’t describe herself as an activist, she had been involved in multiple social activism movements during her time as a student at Bend Senior High School. After the shooting, Hough, a senior, teamed up with students at her school and other student leaders in the region to organize the school walkouts protesting gun violence and the March For Our Lives. Hough talked to Bend Magazine about being a student in the age of mass shootings and what local students are asking of Bend’s and Central Oregon’s leaders.
Left to right, Evelyn Diaz, Emma Smith, Heather Barclay and Lauren Hough. Photo by Matt Fox
Can you tell me about what the day of the Parkland school shooting was like for you?
I wasn’t actually at school that day. It was Valentine’s Day, and I’m in choir and was doing Val-O-Grams, which is where you go around town and sing to them. I wasn’t actually at school when I heard about it, but I remember we were in the car and someone got the notification on their news app.
When I was in school, we didn’t have those notifications on our phones and we often didn’t hear about the news until we got home. I’m wondering what it’s like to get this news while you’re in school, and unfortunately, in a time when these events are all too common.
It’s overwhelming. I turn off notifications constantly on the news app. I think we just grew up in a generation that’s inundated with constant messaging. It can be a big struggle to turn that off. What actually hit me with the Parkland shooting is that I was driving to school the next morning, and there was an NPR segment about it that had one of the parents of one of the victims talking. I don’t know if it was just NPR magic, but something about that hit me, and I just broke down. I thought, “This is not ok at all. This is heartbreaking.”
After the shooting, there were national and local efforts to talk to students get them engaged in political action. How were you involved in that?
I was involved in a lot of that, and I am still am. For me it started with planning the March For Our Lives. I’m involved in Rise Club, which is a social empowerment, feminist club. I’m close with my teacher who leads that. I reached out to her about what we should do as a club about the shootings. The next day, Vinna, who started the Facebook group, and I met and got a committee started to plan the march. Right now, we’re working on doing candidate endorsement for the primaries, just from the perspective of “What are you doing for school safety and gun legislation.” I’ve gotten to meet a lot of people who are running for office.
Had you been involved in planning anything of this scale or other activism?
I’ve done other activism work. I’ve been involved with the climate action committee in Bend. I used to go to Deschutes Democrats meetings and I’ve spoken in front of city council a few times, so I know a lot of our city councilors. But nothing of this scale of planning two walkouts and a march. It was all very new to me and also at a busy time in my life. For me one of the bigger planning efforts was the walkout on March 14, which I co-planned with Emma Smith.
What goes into planning a walkout, and how did you make it happen?
We joined forces with Summit through the 17 Days of Action and Muse. We collected a group of people to get up and read the victim’s bios. Two girls wrote speeches and performed. It was way bigger than we expected. People are saying half of Bend High walked out. It was raining the day of the walkout, so we met in Bend High’s common area. We had a whole stage set up with microphones. It was huge. It was really impactful because it was my peers. The respect that everyone gave at that moment surpassed anything I could have thought of. Also the support we had from our administration was really surprising to me. They turned out to be incredibly supportive. We were passing out orange pins for our teachers to wear in solidarity, and they had stickers for all of them. Our principal was there to support us and make sure everything got done.
Thinking about social activism in the age of social media, how did you deal with some of the criticism that the 17 Days of Action Instagram page received?
I was co-running that with two other girls from Summit. We all made the decisions for how to handle that. We ended up saying that we were going to be impartial and not respond to the comments. If they are hateful, we’re going to delete them, but if they are just criticism, we aren’t going to censor them. It doesn’t really bother me personally. I’ve had a lot of people fighting back to all of our messages. Especially when people criticise different actions you can take or are criticizing marches or walkouts, a lot of people say, “Well they don’t really do anything. You’re just marching or walking out. What does that actually do?” I believe it sends a message and makes people listen and it brings up the issue. As much as people want to criticize it, they’re not creating their own actions. No action is bad action. It would bother me more if those threats or criticism came from people in person, and they never do. They always come on social media.
What’s next for this movement locally?
Something we’ve been discussing is doing a community dinner. Having as diverse of a group as possible, having people with different viewpoints, sitting together at a table and having a directed conversation. I think for me a lot of takeaway has been that feelings, ideas and intentions are inflated on social media, and it makes the internet and social media not a good environment and not conducive to empathy. That it’s always better to talk to people in person. I want people to talk to me and have a different opinion than me because I want to understand their side as much as I can.
Are you looking for any specific changes in Bend-La Pine Schools?
I think that there are some safety measures that Bend-La Pine Schools needs to take. One that seems fairly simple to me is that the doors should lock from the inside. Most of the doors don’t. Where I draw my line on school safety is that I don’t want schools to feel like prisons. I don’t really believe in having all of the doors locked with one access point. Something I think we really need, and Oregon fails as a state in this, is mental health. It’s related to school shootings, but more about school environments in general. Bend High has one school psychologist and five counselors. It’s been pretty understaffed for awhile. That’s something I discussed as people who are running for office.
What do you want people to know about the work high school students are doing for this movement?
Not to underestimate the power of a high schoolers voice, or anyone’s voice for that matter. One message I’d like to share is how thankful I am for the community support in all this. Bend far surpassed the support that other teenagers have gotten. I feel like my opinions are always really valued when shared, and that’s something that people my age don’t generally get, is validated. A lot of really strong women in particular have been supportive in every way.
How do you keep people and students engaged in this activism while it’s not prevalent in the news cycle?
I think that’s a conversation that the people who are leading this movement still have a lot. One thing I think will always be making a difference is voting. It can be as simple as you show up and vote for people who are going to be there actively trying to change things. Getting younger people registered to vote and out to vote is going to be huge. One of the beauties of this movement is that is got younger students involved who will continue things.
Enjoy stunning views of cascading waterfalls with our picks of the best waterfall hikes in Central Oregon.
Chush Falls. Photo by Alex Jordan
A hike to a waterfall is one of the best ways to escape the Central Oregon heat in the summer. With a handful of hikes to pick from, enjoy astonishing views at the top of these falls or venture to their bases to get splashed and swim around in picturesque pools. Hike through dense forests or along rushing creeks to reach these essential summer destinations.
Sahalie Falls and Koosah Falls
Along the McKenzie River Highway, this moderately trafficked waterfall hike begins at Sahalie Falls, a 100-foot-tall waterfall that cascades over a natural lava dam. From here, the gravel trail descends down to seventy-foot-tall Koosah Falls, providing astonishing viewpoints in close proximity to the falls. For a shorter hike, you can head back to Sahalie Falls from here or do the full 2.6-mile loop that returns on the river’s far shore through a thick forest of Douglas firs. This short, yet rewarding, hike can be a great day-trip destination or a nice break from a long car ride.
Distance: 2.6 miles roundtrip Hiking level: Easy Parking: Both Sahalie and Koosah Falls have parking areas, but expect Sahalie to be more crowded, free at both parking areas Open: Year-round but best used March until October
Paulina Creek Falls
Paulina Creek Falls is located in the the Newberry National Volcanic Monument just west of Paulina Lake. These falls, which spill from several parts of the volcanic cliffs, drop approximately eighty feet onto the rocky creek below. If hiking is not in the day plan, park at Paulina Creek Falls day use area, where the viewpoint of the falls are mere steps away from the parking area. Here, you can view the falls from above or hike down to the bottom for exceptional views. If looking for a more challenging hike to these falls, start at the Peter Ogden trailhead, which is accessible even in the winter, for a 5.1-mile moderately trafficked out and back hike.
Distance: Up to 5.1 miles out and back Hiking level: Easy-Moderate Parking: Paulina Creek Falls day use area for short hike or Peter Ogden trailhead, $5 day pass or NW Forest Pass required, day passes are not available at parking areas but can be purchased from Forest Service offices or vendors Open: Peter Ogden trailhead open year-round, Paulina Creek Falls day use area open in summer months
Chush Falls
Just outside of Sisters, Chush Falls is a seventy-foot-high, eighty-foot-wide waterfall on the Upper Whychus Creek. Fed by snowmelt and glaciers from Broken Top, Middle Sister and North Sister, this creek has high water levels all year long and breathtaking views of the mountains. Due to the Pole Creek Fire, which burned the area several years ago, the trail is rarely crowded. The fire drastically changed the landscape and changed what used to be a two-mile round trip hike to Chush Falls into a five-mile round trip hike, or six miles to access the upper falls. In order to access the trailhead, you’ll have to drive six miles on a gravel forest road, so make sure to take a car with high clearance. Once arriving at the falls, hike down to its base and enjoy an up close view of the rushing water from a lush meadow.
Distance: 5 miles out and back, 6 if you head to the upper falls Hiking level: Moderate Parking: Immediately before crossing Whychus Creek on a large concrete bridge, turn left and continue on a gravel road for one mile. Park once reaching a pile of rocks that block the road. Parking is free. Open: Year-round, but snowshoes are recommended in the winter
White River Falls and Celestial Falls
Whitewater rafting on the Deschutes River is not the only water-related activity popular near Maupin; White River Falls, a ninety-foot-tall waterfall tucked in a canyon, is located just out of this small Central Oregon town and can be reached by a 1.4-mile round trip hike. It is a two-tiered waterfall, the lower of which is called Celestial Falls, a forty-five-foot-tall falls frequently run by kayakers. Starting at the White River Falls Trailhead quickly brings you to a viewpoint of White River Falls, which roars in the spring but becomes a series of trickles as the summer goes on. A steep scramble trail leads down from here for a view of the lower Celestial Falls. Then, continue downstream to explore the fifteen-foot Lower White River Falls. The pool below is a great place to take a dip on a hot summer day. While short, this hike is said to be moderate for its uneven ground and steep slopes.
Distance: 1.4 miles out and back Hiking level: Moderate Parking: White River Falls Trailhead, free Open: Year-round
Salt Creek Falls and Diamond Creek Falls
Near Oakridge, approximately 1.5 hours outside of Bend, a 3.2 lightly trafficked loop trail weaves through the Salt Creek and Diamond Creek Canyons. Salt Creek Falls, Oregon’s second tallest waterfall (behind Multnomah Falls), is a short walk from the parking lot and cascades 286 feet. Most visitors stop here and enjoy the stunning views. If you’re looking for a more challenging hike, however, continue past these falls to Diamond Falls, a ninety-foot-tall falls with a series of tiers below that drop an additional 500 feet. A lower viewpoint provides an opportunity to sit at the base of the falls and get splashed. Either loop back to the trailhead from here or continue on a more strenuous hike for several miles to reach Vivian Lake.
Distance: 3.2 mile loop trail Hiking level: Easy Parking: Trailhead at Salt Creek Falls Observation Site, $5 day pass or NW Forest Pass required Open: Year-round but best used from June until October
Escape the summer heat and splash around in these lakes that are great for swimming in Central Oregon.
Summer would not be complete in Central Oregon without days spent swimming at a lake. With beautiful lakes in every direction, splashing around in one of these spots is the perfect activity for a hot summer day. Whether it be a day trip with friends or a camping trip with the family, these lakes have it all. No need to break out that fancy boat or canoe, these lakes are accessible for those looking to relax on a sandy beach and enjoy the beautiful Central Oregon views. Check out our picks for the best swimming lakes near Bend.
Crescent Lake
Crescent Lake, aptly named for its shape, lies on the eastern slope of the Cascade Mountains about sixty-five miles southwest of Bend. With more than twelve miles of wooded shoreline and sandy beaches and 4,008 acres of blue-green water, the lake offers ample opportunities for outdoor activities. Whether this be jumping off the docks and taking a swim or sailing across the glassy water, this lake has a little something for everybody. Motorized boats are permitted, making it a popular spot for waterskiing and fishing. The surrounding wooded area also features trails for hiking, horseback riding and mountain biking.
Distance from Bend: 1 hour 20 minutes Water activities permitted: motorized and non-motorized watercrafts Parking: $5 or NW Forest Pass at day use area Facilities: restrooms, picnic tables, boat ramp
Cultus Lake
Located approximately forty-eight miles southwest of Bend, Cultus Lake is a popular glacier-formed lake off of the Cascade Lakes Highway. Although it is one of the farthest Cascade lakes from Bend, it is well-worth the travel. Several scenic beach spots are accessible at the day use area without any kind of watercraft. The entire lake is surrounded by a dense, mixed conifer forest with views of Cultus Mountain. The lake is known for being one of the only Cascade Lakes that allows high speed motorized boats. There are opportunities for waterskiing, windsurfing, sailing and jet skiing as well as hiking and mountain biking trails that lead north into the Three Sisters Wilderness.
Distance from Bend: 1 hour Water activities permitted: motorized and non-motorized watercraft Parking: $5 or NW Forest Pass at day use area Facilities: restrooms, picnic tables, boat ramp
Devil’s Lake | Photo by Jared Mantzouranis
Devil’s Lake
Looking for a truly stunning spot to cool off this summer? Just a short, scenic drive from Bend, you’ll discover Devil’s Lake, a breathtaking turquoise marvel that feels like stepping into a postcard. Tucked away along the Cascade Lakes Highway, this shallow (average depth: 3 feet!) and vibrant lake is a perfect escape for a refreshing dip on a hot day.
While the water is famously chilly (it’s fed by mountain snowmelt!), its crystal-clear, dazzling blue-green hues make it utterly irresistible for swimming, paddleboarding, and kayaking, no motorized boats here, so it’s extra peaceful! It’s also a fantastic spot for a picnic or embarking on nearby hikes that lead into the stunning Three Sisters Wilderness.
Remember to bring your recreation pass for parking, and be prepared for that invigorating mountain chill.
Distance from Bend: 35 minutes Water activities permitted: non-motorized watercrafts Parking: $5 or NW Forest Pass at day use area, limited parking available Facilities: restrooms
Lake Billy Chinook
Lake Billy Chinook lies just west of Madras at the crossroads of the Deschutes, Metolius and Crooked rivers. The lake spans 3,997 acres and reaches depths of 415 feet. It is surrounded by 400-foot cliffs reminiscent of those at Yosemite and, with arms that splinter off in every direction, the lake boasts seventy-two miles of shoreline. The lake features a day use area with picnic tables and a closed-off swimming area fit for the whole family. If wishing to access the more secluded shores or the picturesque Kettle Falls, hop on any kind of watercraft. Cove Palisades State Park is located just up the road on the cliffs towering above the lake and is a hub for all types of family camping.
Distance from Bend: 1 hour 20 minutes Water activities permitted: motorized and non-motorized watercraft Parking: $5 or NW Forest Pass at day use area Facilities: restrooms, picnic tables, boat ramp
Paulina Lake
About twenty-five miles south of Bend, Paulina Lake is situated at the basin of the Newberry Volcano caldera, featuring views of thousands of years of volcanic activity. You can find picnic areas and swimming beaches at the day use area. Since the water comes largely from snowmelt, it can be cold for swimming in early season. Luckily, a short hike on the Paulina Lake Loop Trail leads to geothermal hot springs along the north shore. If looking for more swimming opportunities, turn off Paulina Lake Road before reaching the lake for a short hike to Paulina Falls along Paulina Creek. Just past the falls, you can find swimming holes and natural waterslides great for a hot summer day.
Distance from Bend: 1 hour 20 minutes Water activities permitted: motorized and non-motorized watercraft Parking: $5 or NW Forest Pass at day use area Facilities: restrooms, picnic tables, boat ramp
Scout Lake
Resembling more of a pond than a lake, Scout Lake is the little sibling of Suttle Lake, a higher trafficked destination just a few miles up the road. Although Scout Lake is the local swimming hole for Sisters residents, it is rarely crowded. The warm water and sandy shores make the lake ideal for swimming. A small campground with nine sites is just adjacent to the day use area. Whether you are camping or using the day use area, remember to leave your furry friend at home. For sanitation and safety concerns, Scout Lake is one of the few recreation sites in the Deschutes National Forest where dogs are not allowed.
Distance from Bend: 50 minutes Water activities permitted: non-motorized watercrafts Parking: $5 or NW Forest Pass at day use area, limited parking available Facilities: restrooms, drinking water, picnic tables
South Twin Lake
Among the Cascade lakes, South Twin Lake is one of the smaller, less-frequented spots for swimming. The lake boasts sandy shores and water warm enough to swim in during the summer months. Motor boats are not allowed, enhancing the tranquility of the lake. With a surface area of ninety-nine acres and an average depth of thirty-three feet, it’s a good size to explore on kayak or canoe on for a little family fun. The lake is also known for its rainbow trout fishing, as well as the 1.6-mile-long loop trail along the shore and the offshoot trail leading to North Twin Lake. Both South and North Twin Lakes were formed around 20,000 years ago from volcanic activity that created the two craters that later filled with water.
Distance from Bend: 45 minutes Water activities permitted: non-motorized watercraft Parking: $5 or NW Forest Pass Facilities: restrooms
Smith Rock Scenic Bikeway | Photo by Russ Roca/Travel Oregon
Explore the region on two wheels by checking out these scenic bikeways and fun biking routes.
Oregon is a cycling mecca, especially in the summer, with more than a dozen designated scenic bikeways around the state. These routes take riders on journeys that combine scenery and history, winding through farmlands, over mountains and along rivers. The bikeways showcase some of Oregon’s small towns and are major contributors to the state’s rural tourism economy. Central Oregon has a number of designated bikeways that showcase some of the region’s diverse geography.. Here are the best routes to ride this summer.
Metolius River Loops
A family-friendly place for an extended bike ride, the Metolius River loops can be broken up into sections that fit, ranging from three miles to up to twenty-four miles. Bike along the crystal-clear water of the Metolius River and through the pine forest with small peeks of Cascade Mountain views. Fun stops for a quick break include the Wizard Falls Fish Hatchery, the headwaters of the Metolius River and the Camp Sherman general store.
Distance: Up to 24 miles Difficulty: Easy to challenging Don’t Miss: Stopping at the headwaters of the Metolius River.
Twin Bridges Scenic Bikeway
Twin Bridges Scenic Bikeway starts at the heart of downtown Bend in Drake Park. Over the thirty-six-mile loop ride, travel through Shevlin Park just outside of Bend and then end at Tumalo State Park before turning around. This ride has a few challenging hills, but it’s great for beginning road cyclists. A note of caution: This route was designed to ride only in the clockwise direction for safety.
Distance: 36-mile loop Difficulty: Moderate Don’t Miss: Stopping for fuel at the Tumalo food truck pod, where you’ll find a solid mix of food to eat as well as beer on tap to rehydrate.
Sisters to Smith Rock Scenic Bikeway
If you’re a beginner road cyclist, or if you’re looking for one of the easier scenic bikeways for a day, check out the Sisters to Smith Rock Scenic Bikeway. The thirty-seven-mile ride will take you on a Old West style tour of the region, starting in the small town of Sisters, then following scenic and low-traffic rural roads to Smith Rock in Terrebonne. The route distance is one-way, so you can turn this into a two-day trip by camping at Smith Rock, then heading back along the same route that offers a challenge with more uphill climbs.
Distance: 37 miles Difficulty: Moderate Don’t Miss: Lunch at Terrebonne Depot, with a stunning view of Smith Rock on the side.
Sherar’s Falls Scenic Bikeway
If you’re looking for solitude and stunning views, check out the Sherar’s Falls Scenic Bikeway. About two hours from Bend, this route takes you through some of the charming river towns in between the high desert and the Columbia River Gorge. Starting in Maupin, one of the most popular places for fishing and rafting in the state, the route starts with a tough but short climb out of town, then rewards you with unobstructed view of Mount Hood and the Deschutes River. Then you’ll loop around toward White River Falls State Park, the eponymous Sherar’s Falls and back into Maupin.
Distance: 33 miles Difficulty: Moderate Don’t Miss: Riverside in Maupin, where you’ll find a stellar menu of food and drinks.
Madras Mountain Views Scenic Bikeway
This loop begins and ends in Madras and winds through the rural farmland in Central Oregon. You’ll pass through the small towns of Culver and Metolius. This is a great route to bikepack and camp on the shores of Lake Billy Chinook. While the route is a few miles shorter than other scenic bikeways, it doesn’t skimp on hills to climb.
Distance: 29 miles Difficulty: Moderate Don’t Miss: Round Butte Overlook Park, where you can take a break and try to spot the wildlife like golden eagles that frequent the area.
Crooked River Canyon Scenic Bikeway
One of Oregon’s newest scenic bikeway designations, the Crooked River Canyon Scenic Bikeway starts at Rimrock Park in Prineville and winds along the rural roads and parallel geologic rock formations that will intrigue and inspire. Ride along the Wild & Scenic Crooked River, stopping for a break or lunch at any scenic spot on the water and ending at Prineville Reservoir before turning around.
Distance: 37 miles total Difficulty: Moderate Don’t Miss: Stopping at the Tastee Treet in Prineville, where you can treat yourself to a classic cheeseburger and milkshake after the ride.
New reads for spring suggested by COCC writing instructor Jennifer Forbess.
Freebird
by Jon Raymond
In his new novel Freebird, Portland-based author Jon Raymond explores the destructive influences society can have on an ordinary family. Sam, the grandfather of the Singer family, survived the Holocaust before seeking a new life in California. His son, Ben, a former Navy SEAL, deals with the repercussions of his violent military career. Sam’s daughter, Anne, trying to make a life for herself and her son, Aaron, struggles to maintain her morality in a cutthroat capitalistic environment. And Aaron, on the cusp of adulthood, seeks to find his place within a society that preys on the weak. This book is not wholly optimistic about our ability to overcome our modern social environment, but the members of the Singer family who make it through do come out stronger in the end
The Immortalists
by Chloe Benjamin
The Immortalists is infused with death, but not in the way of an action movie or a murder mystery. Four siblings visit a fortune teller, who predicts the dates of their deaths. The book traces the lives of the siblings as they approach and reach their prophesied date. The big question that runs through the novel is whether the dates are set in stone—independent of circumstances—or whether the dates become self-fulfilling prophesies. Do things happen to us, or do things happen because that’s what we think will happen? Is life about fate or self-determination? The book does not answer the question, and each reader might have a different take on the conclusion of this well-written and engrossing read.
Whirlaway
by Poe Ballantine
People can often seem on the surface to be relatively normal, but you just know there is a lot going on underneath, including, most likely, a little bit of crazy! At the beginning of the novel Whirlaway, protagonist Eddie Plum is an inmate of Napa State Psychiatric Hospital. Why? I’m not exactly sure. After he escapes with the help of his psychiatrist, he meets up with his friend Shelly, who sells old records to gullible Europeans for a living. After that, well, there is just no summarization that would do this story justice. Part literary novel, part mystery, part dream sequence, this is Eddie’s personal journey through the psychiatric hospitals, racetracks, garage sales and Tijuana landfills of life.
No Time to Spare
by Ursula K. Le Guin
I was in my office at COCC in the middle of reading No Time to Spare when I learned that LeGuin had died. She is so alive in the book, and the news was shocking. No Time to Spare is a collection of some of LeGuin’s blog posts from 2010 to early 2016. She covers a wide range of her interests in varying essays. Her rants are especially entertaining. “Would You Please Fucking Stop,” alone, is worth the price of the book. Other favorites include, “TGAN [The Great American Novel] Again,” and “A Modest Proposal: Vegempathy,” a satirical look at our cultural values around food. I grew up with LeGuin’s books, and it’s sad to see her go. But if you are what you read, then she’s still with me, and that’s comforting.
Traditional landscaping (think large, lush grass lawns) aren’t sustainable in the high desert’s arid climate. Here are a few easy ways to make your landscaping at home more friendly for the environment and use less water.
Sustainable landscaping in the high desert is essentially planning, planting and maintaining your outdoor space in a way that uses water judiciously. Its benefits go beyond being stewards of a limited resource. A sustainable landscape saves time, energy and money. As a general rule, you can save up to 40 percent on your water bill if you’re managing your irrigation wisely.
Whether designing a new landscape or retrofitting an existing one, selecting low- to moderate-water-use plants and adhering to efficient irrigation practices are key to creating a sustainable outdoor space in our low-moisture environment, said Amy Jo Detweiler, associate professor of horticulture for the OSU Extension in Central Oregon.
In addition to proper plant selection and irrigation practices, Detweiler said that modifying the soil of plant beds is a smart way to conserve water and maintain a thriving landscape.
“Our native soils are sandy, which drain water really quickly,” she explained. “Amending the planting area with a nice organic compost helps with root establishment and keeps more moisture in the soil, which will lead to less watering.” Aim to add approximately one-third soil amendment to two-thirds of your existing soil.
Before you banish turfgrass from your landscaping plan altogether, consider this: While the traditional ratio of 90 percent turf and 10 percent beds doesn’t make sense in Bend, turfgrass does have important benefits, including reducing erosion and runoff and providing a fire-resistance barrier around your home.
“In a water-efficient landscape,” noted Detweiler, “put grass only where you need it, such as high-use or play areas, and then fill in with perennials, trees and shrubs, which require less moisture.” Be sure to choose a turfgrass rated for cool weather and drought tolerance.
Tia Hatton is one of twenty-one students suing the federal government for failing to protect the nation’s youth from the effects of climate change.
Photo by Robin Loznak
Tia Hatton, 21, grew up in Bend, and like many locals, spent time with her family hiking and playing outside. In high school, she joined the cross country and Nordic ski teams. She’s currently a junior at University of Oregon studying environmental science and nonprofit management. She also happens to be one of a handful of climate change student activists suing the United States government for failing to act on climate change. Hatton is one of twenty-one students in Juliana v. United States, a potentially landmark lawsuit put forward in 2015 by Our Children’s Trust, a nonprofit based in Eugene. The case recently reached the Ninth Circuit Court of Appeals, where the three-judge panel ruled unanimously that the case can proceed in the U.S. District of Oregon, a major step forward for Hatton and other plaintiffs. Hatton talked with Bend Magazine about being involved in the lawsuit and what it takes to change the climate conversation.
Tell us about growing up in Bend and your connection to the environment.
My dad’s family moved to Bend in 1969, and my grandfather Raymond Hatton completed his Masters thesis on tourism in Bend at the time, then taught geography at COCC for many years. Weekends during my childhood were spent in the outdoors. Some of my earliest outdoor memories are of being outside east of Bend in the high desert dust, sagebrush and juniper, as well as of walking along the Metolius River. As I grew up, I got involved in Nordic skiing and cross country. My favorite times in the outdoors are runs during the fall along the upper Deschutes past Meadow Camp. I also have fond memories of taking a break during a tough ski at Meissner, only to hear silence and feel in awe of the crisp, wintry scene around me.
Did you ever notice changes to the region’s climate or landscape?
My senior year of high school, low snow caused Nordic practices to be cancelled or solely held at Mt. Bachelor, because of its higher elevation. The following summer, all of Oregon was in a severe drought, and the wildfire season was bad. Those were noticeable changes, and science confirms the climate is shifting to higher average global temperatures and more extreme weather events.
How did you get involved in Our Children’s Trust?
In the spring of 2015 I heard about a meeting for high schoolers interested in taking local action to curb the effects of climate change, my friend and I attended. That’s when I got connected to Our Children’s Trust YouCAN, Youth Climate Action Now. In the meeting we learned about the successful efforts of Eugene youth to ask their city council to pass a climate ordinance. That’s when the other high schoolers and I decided to pursue similar actions to urge action on the part of our city council. I never ended up participating in these activities, as I moved to Eugene a few months later. Kelsey Juliana, who is the lead plaintiff on our case, emailed me asking if I wanted to take meaningful action to stop human caused climate change by suing the U.S. Government. I said yes.
What has the experience of being involved in the lawsuit been like for you?
Being a plaintiff on this lawsuit is a tremendous experience. I’ve learned about the government’s long-standing knowledge of the harmful effects of increasing carbon dioxide pollution and other greenhouse gases. I’ve experienced the intricacies of our court system after attending multiple hearings. It’s extremely powerful to hear our stories being told in front of judges and the Department of Justice lawyers. The lawsuit has attracted media attention, and I’ve been interviewed by CNN, MSNBC, Global Citizen, the Youtube channel Soulpancake, have been on C-SPAN, and more. I’m passionate about the subject, and the route we are taking as young people. I wish the U.S. government, and global community had listened when they first realized the science, and rapidly started making changes and advancing renewable energy technology. It is unfortunately a topic tied to politics. Due partly to this, there is some negativity from people who either don’t believe in human caused climate change yet, or don’t care to understand the importance and necessity of the case.
What kinds of changes would you like to see in Bend to reduce our impact on the environment?
I’m impressed to see solar going up around the city, and I commend those who support it. The city council has adopted a climate resolution. However, it isn’t binding in any capacity, and there is a lot of work to be done. It’s important for business owners, especially those who rely on tourism, to understand that climate change can negatively affect their business. I think it’s a good step in the right direction, however, climate change is already happening, and every year without concrete action to curb emissions just means that much more carbon dioxide in the atmosphere, where it stays for a long time.
The Environmental Center of Bend shares five easy ways to make your home more sustainable.
Here it is—another list to help you reduce your carbon footprint. How many of these lists have you skipped past or skimmed through? Just ponder this for a moment though—the act of doing just one thing. And the impact that one thing will have when an entire community takes action. When you act to reduce your energy use, you are part of something bigger than yourself. To put this in perspective: if every home in Bend were to replace just six low-efficiency light bulbs, our community would save $2.6 million each year. How’s that for making an impact? And that’s just light bulbs. Here are a few things that you can do to do your part—and while you’re at it, see if you can get your friends to do just one thing, too.
1. Install efficient LED light bulbs.
Let’s get you started on something easy! LED bulbs use 80 percent less energy than standard light bulbs. Get up to sixteen installed for free from The Energy Challenge
2. Reduce your hot water usage.
This one doesn’t require you to buy anything. Hot water accounts for up to 20 percent of the average home’s energy use, so by using less hot water, your savings can add up quickly. Think twice about how long the water is running when you’re doing dishes. Consider washing your clothes in cold water. These days, most detergents are just as well-suited to be used in cold water. On top of this, you can get new high-pressure, water-saving showerheads for free when you get your free LEDs.
3. Turn down your water heater thermostat to 120 degrees.
This helps your water heater work a lot less hard. Sometimes this can be tricky. The best bet is to just Google it. If you have what looks like a heavy-duty extension cord going into the top or side of your water heater, it’s electric. If you see a flue or something that looks like a metal chimney, it’s a gas water heater. You’ll need to refine your search based on which type of water heater you have.
4. Take control of your thermostat.
Optimize your heating and cooling by making sure you’re taking advantage of times when you’re not home and setting your AC at a higher temperature. Remember, you only need your home to be comfortable when you’re there. (Note to skeptics: energy audits have proven that it’s more efficient to reheat and cool a home on demand than it is to maintain a consistent temperature.)
5. Consider an electric vehicle.
Yes, this one’s a much bigger move, but hear us out. Make sure you have all the information you need—you may find an EV fits into your life better than you may think. Stay tuned for details on workshops to learn more, Ride and Drive events to take one for a spin and special deals over the summer.
You can find out more on each of these topics and sign up for free LEDs at theenergychallenge.org
Editor’s note: This article was written by Lindsey Hardy, the Environmental Center’s Energy Challenge program director.
Sara Wiener on finding community in Bend and running a small business.
Sara Wiener does not sit still for long. An athlete and entrepreneur, Wiener thought Bend seemed the perfect place for her to settle with her partner Joanne and their daughter Bella. Often recognized for her variety of businesses, first Sara Bella, then Sara Bella Upcycled and now her new project Sara Wiener Consulting, she is not one to be kept down. Whether leading the charge to provide a safe and equal place for all community members, starting the Procession of Species parade (now the Earth Day parade) or becoming a CASA volunteer, Wiener has begun to find that perfect grass she had been looking for is the one she planted here when she started her journey in Bend more than twenty years ago.
On Finding Community
When I met Joanne in 1991, I didn’t know what Bend was, but Joanne had come to Bend as a child to ski. We were living in Olympia, Washington and would come here on vacations and long weekends. We were training for triathlons a lot and we were done with the rain. I got pregnant and then we decided to move here. I looked in the yellow pages under the words “gay” and “Jewish” to see what type of community I would find here for both of those pieces of my life. When we got here, there were a few gay people here who were willing to talk to us, but not interested in being outed. They made that very clear. Not that that was my plan, but we were coming here as an out couple—and pregnant! There is a Jewish community as well, but there was no temple and they met in the basement of a church. That has since changed and grown. I think we were a little bit threatening to people because we were out and not interested in anyway of going into a closet just because we moved to a Central Oregon town, which was about 25,000 people at the time. So, there have been some big, big changes since we moved here.
On A Changing Town
I like that there is a larger gay community in town that is more out now. We don’t have to be the pioneers anymore. I feel like we were in a lot of ways, from moving here pregnant, having a child and Joanne adopting Bella. It was the first birth by a known lesbian in town, and it was the first same-sex adoption in Deschutes County. Nobody seemed to know anyone else who had done it. But in any case we were very consciously wanting to make a path that would be easier for people who followed. As were raising Bella, there was a hate crime at The Grove, a restaurant and bar. It was a big, terrible shock. We were regulars there. We would take Bella all the time. We loved that there was a place that was overtly gay friendly in town. The hate crime led to a lot of changes. I was on the special committee to work on changing our Equal Rights Ordinance. That was a big deal and a bit of an eye opener. I gave testimony, and many other people gave testimony, pro and against. Someone gave testimony that the mountains were smoking because of us. I thought, “Well, thank you for that power.” But it changed things.
On Misconceptions
When people hear I live in Bend, they immediately think it must be a progressive place. I have to correct them, sadly, that on any vote, on any candidate, any issue, it’s often fifty-one percent to forty-nine percent. That tells you something. That is not what people understand about Bend. If they are coming in from Los Angeles or San Francisco or Portland, they are funneled into a particular part of Bend and they only know that part, whether it’s the west side or the beer culture or the ski culture.
On Bend’s Next Generations
One of the really cool things that has happened is with PRIDE, which is something that has grown wonderfully along with the growth of the town. It’s not the families who are moving here that are getting involved, but rather it’s our kids! It’s the kids who have grown up here. Whether they are gay or straight, they are getting it. These kids are getting it on all levels of gender diversity, fluidity, non-binary and trans, and I am loving seeing what is going on here.
On Why They Stayed
Moving from Olympia to Bend, it really felt like we were going backwards. I hated that feeling, but at the same time, what we decided was that we were going to stay and make something of it. We stayed because we loved it here, and we made some great friends. We are not necessarily looking for people that look like us. We’re just looking for good people. We are also athletes and outdoors people, major hikers, bikers (mountain and road). We skate ski, so we love the Nordic center and Meissner. We love taking our dog to Wanoga, where it’s off leash for skiing. We love hiking at Smith Rock and in the Three Sisters. We’re in love with the outdoors and the environment here.
On Starting A Small Business
I started Sara Bella in the early ’90s and named it after my grandmother because she was the most important and closest person in my life. She taught me how to sew. It’s funny, I spent many years in Bend as Sara Bella people did not know that I had a different last name. Being a small business owner for the last twenty years here in Bend, I loved being in the public eye. And being the extrovert and a manufacturer, artist, retail person, it was always important to me to be in a downtown core. I loved being part of the downtown core, before I got priced out. I started with the fleece and then I closed when I kept getting priced out of rent. I was burnt out. Then I was working on developing a cyber cafe in a small village in Kenya. Around that time, my friend told me you could iron plastic bags. I was so enthralled with it that I went into my studio and started ironing plastic bags like crazy and then Sara Bella Upcycled was born.
On Changing Careers
I’m excited to start my new business, Sara Wiener Consulting, coaching teens on executive functioning, time management and organizational skills. I have a masters in social work with a focus on school social work, and I have a teaching degree. So, I feel like this combines all of my education and skill set with what I can do today. I am excited and nervous and not very confident, but I feel like that is the exact right place to be in right now.
On The Grass Always Being Greener…
As much as I get frustrated with Bend for a variety of reasons, and I’ve said this for twenty-one years, where would we go? Where is the grass greener? I was always that person looking for the greener grass. I noticed within a year of being in Bend, as much as I questioned raising a kid here, I said to Joanne, “I don’t know where the grass is greener.” I can’t come up with a place that would be better that I would rather be, and today, I cannot do that either. At any point in the last twenty-one years, I have not thought of a better place to be. So, that really says something about this community.
A weekend in Willamette Valley wine tasting includes plenty of glasses of the region’s award-winning pinot noir as well as history, culture and farm-to-table meals.
Allison Inn & Spa
We launched our weekend of wining and dining on a grassy bank of the Willamette River. It was an overcast spring day, the air damp and smelling of black cottonwood. There was no wine in sight. No gleaming glasses of award-winning pinot noir, no hand-printed flight menus, no luxurious views of vineyard estates. Just a historic pavilion, fronted by an engraved stone pillar, marking this meadow as the site where Oregon’s first provisional government was formed in 1843. Without the rich soil, there wouldn’t have been a steady march of early settlers to the Willamette Valley. Without early settlers, there wouldn’t have been a provisional government. Without a provisional government, there wouldn’t have been an Oregon at all. Therefore, no fine Oregon pinot noir, born from the rich soil of the Willamette Valley. Turns out in Oregon’s wine country, everything comes full circle. You can’t pull the wine apart from the history, or the history apart from the people. Which was fine with us. My friend and I had come for relaxation and indulgence, but we were willing to interrupt decadence for culture and history. Each winery and restaurant, it would turn out, had a great backstory. Every Willamette Valley destination we visited wound into a tapestry of landscape, community, innovation and dreams.
Day 1
Alexana Winery. Photo by Andrea Johnson.
A significant aesthetic pleasure of touring Willamette Valley wine country is simply the road trip. It’s postcard-scenic here, each segment of the journey passing bucolic farms, fields readied for spring planting and stands of grand oak trees. We took in the sights with a sense of adventure as we set out on our two-day tour.
We ventured to ROCO Winery, outside of Newberg at the base of the Chehalem Mountains. Owner Rollin Soles came from Texas to make wine in Oregon in the 1980s. After crafting award-winning vintages for Argyle Winery for a few decades, he planted his own pinot noir grapes in a vineyard he christened Wits’ End. We sipped on ROCO Private Stash pinot noir from a bottle bearing the winery’s thunderbird logo, inspired by the petroglyphs of the Columbia Gorge.
Next on to Alexana Winery, where the view commanded our immediate attention. The vineyard descends over ridges and slopes into a misty wood, the coastal mountains poking through the cloud cover beyond. Dr. Madaiah Revana of Texas loved the great wines of Burgundy so much so that, in 2005, he sought out a place to grow grapes himself. The answer was this eighty-acre parcel outside of Newberg. The incredibly diverse and complex soils here are visually represented in the glass front of Alexana’s twenty-foot-long tasting bar, which is filled with layers of earth. We sipped chardonnay and contemplated colors from light sand to a rich brown to charcoal grey, in textures from gritty to dense. This was the stuff—the origin story of everything around here.
From the soil also rise wild mushrooms, one factor that drew the Czarnecki family to Oregon from Pennsylvania in the 1990s. Bringing four generations of restaurant experience, they took up shop in the historic Joel Palmer House, a grand two-story home built by the co-founder of Dayton in 1857. Since, the Joel Palmer House has become one of Oregon’s renowned fine dining restaurants and a purveyor of delectable dishes featuring mushrooms and other local foods. We settled into a four-course meal that included sturgeon, risotto, truffle oil, morels, lobster mushrooms and a divine white chocolate cheesecake, accompanied, of course, by Oregon wine. Chef Christopher Czarnecki paid us a tableside visit, explaining that his family and their friends still gather a majority of the mushrooms for the restaurant.
We arrived at the Allison Inn sated and sleepy. For years, wine country visitors had few overnight options. In 2009, Ken and Joan Austin built an incredible eighty-five-room luxury hotel in Newberg. The couple had grown up on farms in the area, ultimately founding a successful dental equipment company in their hometown. As the region captured international wine-tourism attention, they’d looked on, eventually creating lodging worthy of the most distinguished visitor. Our deluxe room offered a view of the vineyard from our own personal plush window seat.
Day 2
Carlton Winemakers Studio
We began the day in JORY Restaurant, the Allison’s nod to both the renowned soil underfoot and Pacific Northwest farm-to-table dining. Chef Sunny Jin has his own garden onsite, and my omelet came with a petit salad as well as locally sourced maple-sage sausage.
Was it too early to visit a winery? No, it was not. Winderlea Vineyard is perched outside Dundee, and its tasting room is in a glass-encased building that feels like a castle on the hill. We sampled Winderlea’s small-batch wines in a bright tasting room as Donna Morris told us how she and Bill Sweat left Boston and successful business careers behind to craft an Oregon pinot noir winery. Surrounded by vast garage door-windows boasting views across the vineyards into the valley beyond, I didn’t blame her one bit.
Lunch was at Red Hills Market, a marketplace and restaurant I fell in love with immediately. The tall square building embodies the best kind of neighborhood gathering place, warm and inviting, smelling of delicious foods and bustling with chatter. Wood-fired pizzas, soups, salads and more farm-to-table treats are served from a busy counter. The Oregon albacore tuna melt with local cheddar, capers and arugula hit the spot. It came as no surprise that, when we met the market’s owner Jody Kropf, we learned he’s an Oregon native who grew up helping his parents with their business, the Brownsville General Store, and that he was drawn right back home after culinary school in California.
Red Hills Market
The Carlton Winemakers Studio was born of collaboration and community. Twelve individual vintners produce coveted wines under one innovative roof in this modern and light space. When we were there, winemakers sat together over tasting glasses, decanters and clipboards, immersed in the tasks of the trade.
Scenic rural roads delivered us to McMinnville, where we began our tour at the McMenamins Hotel Oregon rooftop bar. Below us was the charming downtown and a bird’s-eye view of shops, restaurants and entertainment. The hotel was built in 1905 and brought back to life in 1999 by Oregon natives Mike and Brian McMenamin, famous for their restoration of old Pacific Northwest buildings.
Tucked away in a glass storefront on a side street, we found Thistle, a cozy, eclectic restaurant that quickly made a name for itself with a menu that changes constantly based on available provisions from nearby farmers and ranchers. Our experience began with a cocktail called the Millionaire—rum, gin, apricot brandy and lime—poured into an antique champagne cocktail glass. At a wooden-plank table, from mismatched vintage plates, we enjoyed innovative flavors by way of oysters from Netarts, “wild weeds,” anchovies, duckling and kale.
We found our walk-up flat over the Odd Fellows Lodge. The owners of Third Street Flats want guests to immerse themselves in McMinnville. We had a small apartment of our own, walking distance to shops and eats, with a tidy kitchen stocked with everything we might need (read: chocolate and wine). Our “8th Flat” was decorated contemporary post-modern, in colors of indigo and white.
Quiet, lovely and comfortable, the flat made us feel as if we were local insiders. Drifting to sleep, we could dream of living right here ourselves. Perhaps we would plant a vineyard or start a farm. Maybe open a restaurant. We would put down roots, connect with a new community and create something wonderful out of the rich soils of the Willamette Valley.
Water is one of the most talked about resources in the high desert.
1. Don’t set it and forget it
The most efficient irrigation method is the one that’s being monitored. A monitored system—whether by hand or timed/automatic—takes current weather and location (i.e., not the sidewalk) into consideration on a routine basis. In general, Detweiler recommends that irrigators should water less at the beginning of the summer, more as it progresses and then taper off again in the fall. One way to stay on top of irrigation management is to purchase a smart irrigation system, which responds to real-time weather conditions and forecasts, offers intelligent watering schedules and gives you control of your sprinklers from anywhere via an app.
2. Avoid runoff
When hardscaping an area, consider permeable pavers, which allows water to seep into the ground below. Similarly, dry river or rock beds can be positioned to collect rainwater and direct it somewhere useful, say, a plant or flower bed.
3. Just the right amount
Grouping plants together with similar water needs into distinct beds or zones prevents overwatering plants that don’t need the extra moisture. For example, group moderate water use plants in one bed and low-use plants in another. When it’s time to set up your irrigation schedule, you can easily provide more water to plants that need it and less to those that don’t.
4. Top it off
Adding a layer of mulching materials to your plant beds helps keep moisture in, versus bare soil, which dries out quicker. Aim for a two- to five-inch layer.
A retreat, a remodel and a modern infill project showcase creative approaches to sustainability.
Photo by Alan Brandt
Central Oregon is well-known for sweeping mountain vistas, towering stands of pine forests and clear, cold rivers, so it makes sense that our love for nature influences the way we design and build our homes. A modern retreat in the forest, a nearly 100-year-old bungalow and a Frank Lloyd Wright-inspired home all show that there’s more than one way to be green.
1. Old Bend Meets New Modern
Photo by Alan Brandt
Realtors often tout “location, location, location,” and when it comes to sustainability, living in a home where you can easily walk to amenities means you can drive less. Just half a block from the popular Jackson’s Corner eatery in the Old Bend neighborhood sits Doug and Kathryn Collins’s modern 2,000-square-foot home. The home was born from a desire to live in the heart of Bend so they could walk to downtown, the Deschutes River, Drake Park and the Old Mill District. “We decided to forgo the mountain views for the simplicity of walking to nearby things that we like to do,” said Doug.
The couple had several ideas that required a creative approach to the home. It had to be single-story and it had to be sited and designed so that it wouldn’t dominate the neighborhood or be visible from a block away. It also had to be environmentally friendly. Sustainable features include a 3.2-kilowatt grid-tied solar electric system on the roof and a heat recovery ventilator, which brings fresh air into the home through an energy efficient heat exchanger. All the lights have high efficiency LED bulbs, and the landscaping consists of entirely drought resistant native plants for a low maintenance and low water use yard.
The Collinses are architectural buffs with a love for Frank Lloyd Wright designs, so local architect Eric Meglasson wove together a modern look with touches of Wright. Clerestory windows filter in natural sunlight, while still providing privacy in this dense central neighborhood. The entire home has concrete flooring with radiant heating for warmth, and simple, low maintenance finishes are found throughout the home. The fir trim, along with the cedar ceilings and art from local artists, is an intentional nod to Pacific Northwest materials and culture.
2. A Passive Solar Home in the Pines
Photo by Might Creature Co
When Susan Worden and her husband Bill were planning to build a home in Central Oregon, Susan distinctly remembers saying to herself, “I want to feel like I’m living in the forest.” The couple also had specific goals for their home. It had to, in this order, be affordable, efficient, sustainable, have “aging in place” features and be architecturally beautiful. All those factors combined to produce a one-of-a-kind home on a forested property in the Three Rivers South area, south of Sunriver.
Designed and built by the Wordens, the house is passive solar, meaning it maximizes the sun to heat and illuminate the home. Orientated so that the south side of the home has most of the windows, the home is designed so that the warm sun filters into the home in the winter, but not in the summer. A large concrete fireplace heats the home, and the wood comes from trees cleared on the property. By sustainable, selective tree thinning around the house and on the fifteen-acre lot, the couple already has enough wood for at least the next nine years.
Tightly sealed and well-insulated walls, ceilings and foundation, triple and quadruple paned windows, LED lighting and ultra-efficient appliances are just a handful of the features that make the home energy efficient. The Wordens were also conscientious about the materials in the home and made an effort to find local, recycled or repurposed materials. All the fill and concrete was sourced from five miles away, and noticeable throughout the home are repurposed materials such as an “upcycled” stainless steel countertop and a dining table made from bowling alley flooring.
Designed with health and longevity in mind, the home has a yoga room, an infrared sauna, and has “aging in place” features such as no stairs or steps, wide hallways and curbless showers. “We intend to live here for a long time,” Worden said with a smile. It’s easy to see why, in this south county retreat.
3. A Net Zero Energy Historic Bungalow and ADU
Photo by Mighty Creature Co
Experts agree that when it comes to energy efficient and sustainable buildings, the holy grail is “net zero energy.” While it might sound like a lofty phrase, it’s actually a simple concept. A net zero energy home is one that creates onsite as much energy as it uses, leaving the occupants with no energy bills and a home that contributes no carbon dioxide into the atmosphere. This is usually done with a combination of renewable energy, usually from solar panels, and an extremely well-sealed, insulated and energy efficient home.
Designing and building a net zero energy home isn’t always simple to do, but Joe Emerson and Ann Brayfield have made it their mission to help people achieve net zero energy in their homes. The couple has built several net zero energy houses in Bend, and their latest project is a renovated 1926 west side Bend bungalow with a new accessory dwelling unit (ADU).
The 500-square-foot home evokes the yesteryears of Bend, when the lumber mills were churning out wood that was sent to build houses near and far, featuring a deep bungalow-style front porch, wide-trimmed windows and old fir floors.
“The house is amazingly well built, and we discovered right away that it has good bones, so we thought it would be an interesting home to transform into a zero energy home,” said Brayfield.
A closer look at the old home reveals features such as high-efficiency windows, blown-in insulation, new wiring, and high-efficiency LED lighting and heating.
The real powerhouse of the property is the new 600-square-foot ADU that sits behind the bungalow on the cozy lot. The small roof houses a 6.4-kilowatt solar panel system that provides clean, renewable energy for both units.
Since summer 2017, the two homes together have proven to be net zero energy—a green feat for this unique property.
Oregon’s newest resort near Burns, Silvies Valley Ranch combines Western ranch life with top-tier golfing for a unique and elevated ranch retreat.
Photo courtesy of Silvies Valley Ranch
Scott Campbell isn’t the kind of person who does anything halfway. Campbell is the veterinarian who did for animal care what Ray Kroc did for the hamburger, turning a sleepy Portland veterinary practice into a multimillion-dollar pet hospital empire. So when Campbell, now semi-retired, returned his attention to his native Eastern Oregon, folks who knew Campbell expected that he would come up with something big. He didn’t disappoint.
In late 2017, Campbell unveiled his latest venture—part luxury resort, part dude ranch and totally Oregon. Silvies Valley Ranch Retreat and Links is a 140,000-acre resort and golf destination located between Burns and John Day that ties the region’s colorful ranching history with what Campbell sees as its economic future.
Campbell grew up in nearby Burns, about forty-five minutes south of Silvies Valley, not far, at least by Eastern Oregon standards. It was in Burns that he developed his early interest in animal care, tending to horses and cattle on his family’s ranching operation. Campbell’s career took off in the late in 1980s when he grew his traditional veterinary practice into Banfield Pet Hospitals, a business franchise that pioneered concepts like health insurance for pets.
It’s no accident that Silvies Ranch sits far from the nearest city or international airport. Campbell wanted a project that showcased the diverse geography and natural beauty of Eastern Oregon, while also addressing the persistent lack of economic investment and job opportunity in places like Burns, where unemployment remains high and wages stubbornly low. Campbell looked to Bandon, another formerly depressed town on Oregon’s coast, and saw the economic transformation that followed the development of Bandon Dunes Golf Resort.
Worth the Wait
Photo Courtesy of Silvies Valley Ranch
Some seven years in the making, after a brief sneak preview last summer, the resort is now ready to debut for its first full year of operation. If you’re expecting Sunriver or Black Butte Ranch, think again. Unlike those sprawling resorts, there are no roads at Silvies. Guests check in at the welcome center and transfer their belongings into golf carts, the preferred mode of transportation around the property, where gravel paths connect the communal dining hall, cabins and golf courses.
While Silvies Ranch is plenty remote (the only traffic jam we witnessed involved a massive herd of resident elk), it’s also surprisingly accessible from Central Oregon. If you’re traveling from Bend, it’s hard to get lost. Head straight to Burns and hang a left. From there the two-lane Highway 395 climbs into the heart of the Malheur National Forest through a bulwark of massive lava rock and sandstone formations that at times pinch the road into narrow slot canyons, before climbing into a ponderosa forest that beckons exploration. Within half an hour or so, the highway drops into a broad valley where signs announce entry into the historic Silvies Valley Ranch, really a patchwork of pre-existing ranches and homestead properties that stretch into the surrounding hills to the east and west. Roadside signs direct guests along gravel roads into the ranch where they are greeted by a proverbial welcome wagon and concierge. The check-in process is eased by a causal refreshment station with a nice craft beer selection, wine by the glass and artisan cheese. (Cocktail hours are an enshrined part of daily life at Silvies.)
While 2018 brings the debut of a spa and fitness center, you won’t find a wave pool or waterslide. Instead, Campbell is betting that his unique approach to the destination golf resort will appeal to golfers who are willing to travel, sometimes across the globe, for one-of-a-kind experiences like Silvies. Designer Dan Hixson designed a “reversible golf course” that can be played as two different 18-hole layouts depending on the day. This year debuts an even wilder idea, a 7-hole, par-3 golf course dubbed McVeigh’s Gauntlet. The course, more an array of tee boxes and greens, requires players to make approach shots over narrow valleys to angular greens tucked onto hillsides. If it seems like cruel joke on average handicappers, consider this punchline: Silvies is employing trained goats to serve as caddies (the upside being that no tipping is required). There is also a short pitch-and-putt, par-3 course that offers players a taste of Silvies’ signature sloped greens and the links golf tactics they require. While the golf can be challenging, the views are beyond comparison with many holes featuring elevated tee boxes that offer broad vistas over seemingly endless rolling valleys that stretch to the foot of the Blue Mountains.
Off the Links
Photo Courtesy of Silvies Valley Ranch
Schedules typically revolve around tee times at Silvies, which leaves non-golfers plenty of time for exploration and relaxation, both of which are in abundance at the resort. In addition to golf, Silvies offers hiking, horseback riding and fishing in a man-made pond. Come July, the resort will also reveal its new spa, which includes a fitness room, lap pool, saunas, a climbing wall and spa treatments to soothe golf-weary shoulders and backs. In addition to golf and spa activities, the ranch offers off-road biking and a shooting range where guests can play Wyatt Earp under the watchful eye of an instructor who will offer the finer points of gun safety and marksmanship. Regular cattle drives mean guests can also witness and partake in the time-honored round-up tradition.
If you’d rather just relax and take in the scenery, Silvies has you covered there, too. The cabins feature a deck-side hot tub for guests staying in the main guest room. (A lockout feature allows the cabins to be set up in multiple configurations for booking flexibility.) The cabins themselves carry the resort’s Western themes and feature rustic luxury—think antler chandeliers and leather couches—with plenty of modern touches like climate-controlled wine storage and radiant heat.
If the days offer solitude, meals are an event that draw guests from around the ranch. During our stay, a single group seating offered a chance to mingle with others, making new friends while enjoying the ranch’s hospitality. Guests were offered steak or chicken dinner, but the choice was clear for me as well as most of my dining companions. We were asked to select a carving knife from a deliberately mismatched selection of hunting knives that was passed around the table like a church offering plate. Once properly armed, we dug into perfectly cooked ribeye steaks with sides like mashed potatoes and roasted broccolini shared around family style. Afterward, we migrated to the patio for a bonfire and a last round of cocktails, watching as crackling embers drifted over our heads toward the first evening stars peeking through a fading desert sky.
In time, Campbell hopes that Silvies Ranch will draw guests from as far away as Japan and China, not just for the golf, but for a chance to immerse themselves in the Old West, or at least the idea of it. Campbell acknowledges that it will likely take several years for international travel buzz to develop around Silvies, which has only now just begun to break ground on many of its planned overnight accommodations. Given the singular and signature Western experience, he believes that they will come. In the meantime, he’s got Oregon’s hardcore golfers looking east and seeing green.
Jamie Brown, a sprint paratriathlete, is climbing the ranks of the sport and aiming for the 2020 Olympics.
Jamie Brown. Photo by Pete Erickson
Run, cycle, swim—every day. That’s what it takes to stay faster than almost everyone in the world. Just ask Bend’s Jamie Brown, who has been doing it for the past eight years while climbing the ranks of the world’s best sprint triathletes.
Sprint triathletes race a truncated triathlon that includes a 20k bike leg and 5k run. A multisport event, the sprint triathlon is to the Ironman what the 100-yard dash is to the mile race in track and field. It takes a special kind of athlete and a certain mindset to succeed in a race that is part endurance race and part mad dash.
“I guess I have always just liked pushing myself and my limits,” said Brown. In March, he won the continental championships, and he’s currently training for the New York City Marathon. He’s done it all without the benefit of a right leg. Brown was born without a right fibula, but he’s never allowed it to slow him down. An early surgery set him up for a prosthetic lower leg. He started playing sports like everybody else, always competing against able-bodied athletes. Eventually, he was pitching in the Division III College World Series for Chapman University in California. “It never registered as ‘I’m the disabled kid,’” said Brown.
That kind of can-do mindset has served him well throughout his life. When he turned his focus to paratriathlon races roughly eight years ago, it didn’t take long for the results to follow. Since then he’s amassed an impressive list of achievements at the national and international level, including gold medals on the world championship level. Athletic ability and a fiercely competitive spirit have brought him success, but Brown credits his wife, also named Jamie, for her unwavering support. “I most likely would not be able to compete at this level without her motivating and pushing me to go swim every morning.”
With each season comes another set of obstacles and another set of opportunities. Later this year he’ll be in the Escape from Alcatraz triathlon, plus racing in Japan and on Australia’s Gold Coast. The ultimate goal is the Olympics. Brown narrowly missed qualifying for the last summer games in Rio de Janeiro in 2016. His recent successes have only added to his determination to qualify for the Tokyo 2020 Paralympics.
Talent and a loving spouse propel him far, but Brown’s essential strength originates in positive thought. “The further you go in sports, the more challenges and adversity you are going to have to encounter,” said Brown, who until a recent rule change, found himself racing alongside para-athletes who had both legs.
“It doesn’t matter how many parts you’re missing,” he said. “Mind state is critical.”
“I’m pretty big on practicing sports psych and visualization. With endurance sports, you’re consistently going, and, sure, when you’re hurting, negative things start to fill your head,” he added. So, as part of his training, Jamie imagines himself in those scenarios. “It allows me to create ways to resolve these feelings.”
Brown isn’t the type of competitor who hoards his knowledge as a competitive advantage. He coaches other para-athletes, like the nation’s best (and world number two) above-the-knee amputee, Mark Barr. Jamie also works with local youth triathlon camps and is creating a team of young triathletes alongside Ironman coach Jaime Dispenza. Meanwhile, Brown and his wife lead adult fitness classes in Bend, including family-specific group workouts.
Advice from one of Bend’s top athletes? “Eat right, get sleep and allow your body to recover.”
As the population of Bend and Central Oregon continues to grow, so does the amount of waste we collectively send to the landfill.
While recycling is an important step in trash management, preventing waste from occurring in the first place is the gold standard in sustainability.
“We say ‘reduce, reuse, recycle’ in that order because it’s the order of importance and impact,” said Denise Rowcroft, a sustainability educator and the manager of the ReThink Waste project spearheaded by the Environmental Center of Bend. Here, we share easy-to-adopt tips to help you begin a reduce-reuse-recycle habit. And for those who want to make an even bigger impact, we offer advice on how to take your home trash management and prevention routine to the next level.
About a quarter of the trash that enters the landfill is food waste. Once in the landfill, that food waste releases methane gas, which contributes to greenhouse gas emissions and ultimately global warming. Composting your food scraps not only reduces methane gas emissions, but also breaks down to create a nutrient-rich soil for your garden or flower beds.
While composting is highly recommended for disposing of unused veggies and fruits—just like recycling—it’s worth taking a look at your buying habits to prevent food from needing to be composted in the first place. It’s not just good home economics. Purchasing less means a reduction in your total carbon footprint.
“If you have a lot of fruits and veggies going bad in your fridge,” explained Rowcroft, “there is still a significant upstream environmental impact to ship that carrot grown in California on multiple trucks to Bend.”
1. Shop your cabinet and fridge first.
This has two benefits: You avoid buying duplicates and you may discover something to add to your weekly meal plan before it goes bad.
2. Make a plan before you buy.
Creating a meal plan and shopping list in advance of your trip to the grocery store helps you purchase only what you need.
3. Eat your leftovers.
Step 1 will help you remember to follow through with Step 3.
4. The freezer is your friend.
If you don’t have a plan for a specific food item before it will spoil, freeze it for later use. Just don’t forget to “shop your freezer” on a routine basis.
Tiny homes don’t skimp on design aesthetics and high-end features and contribute to the sustainable housing movement in Central Oregon.
A Wood Iron Tiny Home. Photo by Joshua Langlais
In 2014, mainstream America discovered the “tiny home movement” through shows like Tiny House Hunters, Tiny House Nation and Tiny House, Big Living. Four years later, tiny homes are still gaining popularity among builders and buyers. Part tree house, part camper trailer, so-called tiny homes come in many shapes, if not a lot of sizes. The mini cottages are typically built on camper trailer frames, offering a highly mobile residence with a bohemian feel for individuals and families who seek the comforts of home stripped down to the essentials.
Spud and MaryEsther Hooley of Bend’s Wood Iron Tiny Homes (WITH), like many in the movement, consider “tiny living” more a lifestyle than a floor plan. Before starting WITH, the Hooleys spent seventeen years on missions to impoverished countries. “For 75 percent of the world, living tiny is their only option,” explained Spud. After dwelling among those with so little, the Hooleys wanted their business to offer an alternative to American “McMansions”—something both elegant and economical. It seems many find the idea of pared down, sustainable living attractive, particularly in Oregon where interest in tiny home living and building is among the highest in the nation, according to Google’s search data.
Photo by Missy Mabel
The Hooleys migrated into the tiny home building market almost by accident. They tried RVs and remodeled a caboose, but discovered tiny homes had a winning combination of mobility and quality. They liked the idea of building something from scratch that was high on craftsmanship but low impact, environmentally speaking. For starters, tiny homes simply require less of everything, fewer raw materials, less space and energy. Mobility can also add to the dwelling’s efficiency.
“You can move a tiny home seasonally into shade or sun to conserve energy,” she added. Most tiny homes feature composting toilets, and WITH’s smaller model, dubbed McKenzie, sports portable solar panels and off-grid capabilities. The Hooleys keep transit costs down during building by shopping locally. Their debut model, North Sister, features hardwood floors, a cedar shake exterior, and granite countertops from Bend businesses and cabinets from wood milled in Sisters.
Photo by Missy Mabel
They see tiny homes conserving other things, too. “You shop less. With each purchase you consider, ‘Where would I put it? Do I love it more than what I have?’ So, your income goes farther,” said Mary Esther. Although WITH exists on the higher end of the tiny house price range, the Hooleys work to balance custom home quality with affordability. “You still have to come up with a six or seven-year payment, like a car, but it is better than a thirty-year mortgage,” said Spud.
Tiny Home resident Tamara Heauser bought the North Sister model last year, after touring it at an expo. “I wasn’t planning to buy a tiny house, I just wanted ideas for my own design,” explained Heauser. She had designed a custom home and remodeled a cabin previously. Although accustomed to beautiful aesthetics, she’s also lived in 400-square-foot spaces and even a tree house. She wanted mobility with custom-home quality, and her North Sister model fit the bill.
“I don’t feel it’s about not having things,” she said. “It’s more about choosing things that I use and value. It contributes to a simpler lifestyle.”
A thoroughbred racehorse destined for the racetrack suffers a twist of fate, but lands in Central Oregon, where a passionate equine community rallies to give him a second chance.
Kevin Thompson, Lisa Valenta and Norris
In the winter of 2012, a colt named American Pharoah was born in New Jersey. The thoroughbred spent his early life in some of the best barns in America, training to become an elite race horse. In 2015, he became the first horse to win the Triple Crown and the Breeders’ Cup Classic, considered the Grand Slam in horse racing. Acclaimed for his speed, good nature and athleticism, American Pharoah became a legend, revered by the horse community and popular with the media and public.
Around the same time American Pharoah was born, his half-brother was born in another barn. They called that colt Party on the Nile. He had the same smooth stride and impressive physique as his brother as well as the same kind demeanor and hardworking personality. His career, however, ended differently. Plagued by a damaged tendon and hoof problems, all chances of becoming a star racing horse like his half-brother were gone.
It would appear that Party on the Nile was the unlucky brother. But Party on the Nile caught a break when he caught the eye of Lisa Valenta, a Bend resident and horse enthusiast. Valenta spotted Party on the Nile at After The Races, a Pennsylvania-based nonprofit that rehabilitates thoroughbred racing horses and finds them new homes, and ideally, new careers. Valenta was searching for a thoroughbred to adopt and train as a hunter and jumper horse. She was drawn to Party on the Nile’s build, and she loved the look in his eye.
“So often you’re looking for one thing, and you find something else,” said Valenta.
Valenta took a leap of faith. Party on the Nile left Pennsylvania in a trailer bound for Oregon. He had cleared his first post-race hurdle, avoiding the slaughterhouse in Canada or Mexico, the fate of many young failed racehorses. Instead he was welcomed by a thriving equine community that was willing to make a different kind of bet on a thoroughbred racehorse.
A New Home
Lisa Valenta and Norris
Valenta wasn’t sure what to call him. For months Valenta and her husband, Kevin, called him New Horse. That became Norse, and eventually, Norris. The horse had a new name and a new start, but his health issues lingered. Despite expert care, Norris’s leg wasn’t getting better, it was getting worse.
Lisa and Kevin own four horses and are no strangers to horse problems. As high-performance animals, horses require a whole team of care, from farriers to the veterinary team to chiropractors to masseuses and trainers. “It’s not just you, and it’s not just the horse,” said Valenta.
That means plenty of room for opinions and plenty of opportunity for healthy debate. The equine community is tightly knit, but not always in lock step. In this insular culture everything from saddle fit to bits to feed is dissected and analyzed. About the only thing that the horse community can agree on is the duty to a sick animal.
“Norris wasn’t available for adoption to anyone except [someone] who had the resources, the community, to deal with these issues,” said Valenta. “Not all communities are are as lucky as Bend to have as many professionals, farriers and vets that specialize in these types of issues.”
It Takes A Village
Dr. Patrick Young
Dr. Patrick Young is a large animal veterinarian who moved to Central Oregon from the South in 2014, bringing along his Texas drawl, cowboy hat and boots and habit of chewing tobacco. The last of ten children, seven of which are medical doctors, Young bucked tradition when he “cowboy’d” for two years on a ranch before going to vet school.
Young was one of many who rose to the occasion to help Norris. He describes himself as a mobile “horse mechanic” who travels all over Central Oregon diagnosing and treating high performance horses like Norris. “I just fix their wheels,” he said modestly.
He’s humble, but in fact Young is a specialist in equine lameness, arguably one of the most challenging diagnostic puzzles a vet can face. He carefully takes in every muscle movement, the geometry of the horse’s gait, and the speed and force of each foot fall, following up with modern diagnostic tools like x-ray, MRI and ultrasound. Young also heads a biotech company and has successfully researched and licensed a new vaccine for pigeon fever in horses. His passion for creative problem solving is exactly what Norris needed.
There’s a saying about horses that dates back to the 18th century and persists to this day: No hoof, no horse. Horses with poor feet often end up in constant pain and suffer from severe lameness. When the Valentas first called Young to look at Norris, “It was definitely a lot worse than I envisioned,” he said. “It was definitely a bigger problem than what they thought it would be. But I thought it was fixable. I think everything is fixable. I think I have an ‘S’ on my chest.”
After watching Norris and taking x-rays, Young began treating his ailments with a series of progressive treatments like corrective shoeing to reshape his hooves and cocktails of antibiotics and anti- inflammatories, “voodoo” as Young calls it jokingly, to treat the infections and abscesses that were also growing.
For weeks at a time, Lisa and Kevin had to fill a bucket with water, epsom salts and betadine, unwrap Norris’s foot and place it in the bucket, make him stand there for twenty minutes, pack the hoof with epsom salts, rewrap it, then place it in a protective boot. Norris waited patiently in his stall, healing and resting for the next round of treatments.
A Second Chance
Jeff Cook
For most of the 20th century, thoroughbreds ruled jumping competitions. In the 1980s, though, European breeds began to take over, displacing domestic thoroughbreds. “It was hard to be competitive with those horses,” said Jeff Cook, a trainer who works with Norris. “You might go through twenty thoroughbreds to find one that truly is competitive. There’s a risk to it.”
Many thoroughbreds were left without a second career after racing, creating the risk of an excess supply of retired race horses. Recently, there have been efforts to get thoroughbreds back into the hunting and jumping competition. Cook has a soft spot for thoroughbreds like Norris, especially those in the competitive hunting and jumping world. “I love a thoroughbred, refined type, and that he is,” said Cook, who is renowned for his discipline and decades of experience training horses. He spends his entire day around horses. It’s hot and dirty work, yet Cook manages to stay as crisp and clean as when he walked in that morning.
Adding to the challenge, thoroughbred horses in particular are known for having sensitive feet due to their flat and thin soles. Foot problems can shorten a horse’s athletic career and contribute to inactivity and muscle atrophy. Those that don’t have access to quality veterinary care or resources are euthanized.
“We’re trying to encourage thoroughbreds back into our industry,” said Cook. “To this day of any of the horses I’ve seen, the best horse I’ve ever seen was a thoroughbred. A good thoroughbred cannot be beat. They look to go to the fences, they look to go to the jump.”
Jeremy Thompson is a local farrier, the guy called in to work with Norris’s hooves. “He’s had a lot of recovery,” said Thompson. “His feet are way better than when I met him. He had no heels. He had abscesses constantly. He had issues with soundness, being able to walk out without any signs of lameness. From what I saw when he showed up at our place in the beginning of winter is 100 percent better than it was.”
With corrective shoeing, Thompson is working on getting Norris’ hooves to grow more naturally upright, instead of flattening out like they are prone to do. It will give him more support, which is healthier for the hoof and better suited to jumping.
Norris’s tenacious personality showed through even in the initial treatments and encouraged Valenta. At one point while he was on stall rest for a month, he jumped up and over the top of his stalls without touching anything—from a standstill. An incredible feat for an almost 1,500-pound horse. It’s part of what draws people to Norris and what encourages the community to find solutions to his problems.
“I had some really frank discussions with Dr. Young about whether we should keep him as a sport horse or whether we should find a home for him that would be less demanding,” said Valenta. “I just keep getting encouraged to keep on with it, because he is such a nice horse, that we feel in maybe another six months to a year, he’ll be in a position to really see what he can do. It’s doable, it’s just going to take time.”
Young is also hopeful for Norris. “If we can keep that foot in alignment, that’s the key to him,” said Young. “If we can keep his wheels under him, he’ll be fine.”
Lisa and Kevin have taken on a huge risk with Norris. If he does respond to treatment, the question remains as to whether he will be competitive. “Hopefully he’s going to really love jumping,” said Lisa. “If he doesn’t love jumping…” she trailed off for a moment looking at Norris. “He’s such a cool horse.”
Back in the Saddle
Jeremey Thompson
At the end of January, after dozens of epsom salt soaks, antibiotics, new shoes and wedges, stall rest and numerous other therapies, Young made another barn call to assess Norris’s progress. Norris was feeling good, perhaps a little too good. His energy had been contained a little too long in a twelve-by-twelve-foot stall. Everyone has learned that when Norris decides to rear and stretch his legs, there isn’t a lot that can stop him, which is exactly what he does.
Norris slipped away from his handler and ran hell-bent for the leather, as they say, in the opposite direction. The onlookers watched attentively. Seeing a horse like Norris strut his stuff can fill you with exuberance. But with his physical limitations, it can also make you cringe, hoping he doesn’t re-injure his sensitive soles.
Young broke the silence. “He looks pretty fucking sound to me,” he said, before they all chased after Norris.
City partners with developers to revive historic Redmond Hotel.
The Redmond Hotel today. Photo by Heaven McArthur
For ninety years, the New Redmond Hotel stood through depression, war, boom and bust cycles of Central Oregon, changing economics and outright neglect. Now, Redmond’s grande dame is getting a makeover—from top to bottom, inside and out—with the hope that she can be restored to her original splendor and prominence.
“We want an eighteen- to twenty-four-hour environment that includes living, working and staying downtown. The hotel will play a key role,” said Chuck Arnold, Redmond’s economic development and urban renewal manager. He estimates that the hotel will bring in about $2.4 million to downtown businesses in just the first year of operation.
Listed on the National Register for Historic Places, the New Redmond Hotel was built on the corner of Southwest Sixth Street and Evergreen in 1928 for $150,000 by William and Fanny Wilson, replacing a wood hotel on the same site, which burned to the ground in 1927. The new structure was bigger, sturdier and built to last, framed in steel and fir, and cased in brick masonry.
Bend architect Hugh Thompson designed the New Redmond Hotel in the Georgian Revival-style with touches of Art Deco. The Georgian style was based on classical Roman and Greek values of symmetry and proportion. The three-story, 43,000-square-foot hotel featured a Romanesque arched entryway, an open lobby with high beam ceilings, painted Corinthian columns, a banquet space and one of the first elevators in Central Oregon.
As the Wilsons’ intended, the hotel became a gathering place for locals and travelers passing through on the adjacent Highway 97. Room rates averaged $1.75 per night, and ads billed the hotel as the finest lodging east of the mountains.
However, records and news stories reveal alternating cycles of deterioration and renovation over the decades. It’s been more than a decade since the last guest checked out of the hotel, which ceased lodging operations in 2004. City officials and other proponents of the hotel never stopped seeing it as an anchor for downtown redevelopment and a cornerstone of long-range revitalization plans. The trick was finding the right partner to jumpstart a makeover of the building, which needed both structural and cosmetic work.
Photo courtesy City of Redmond
“The incredible ‘bones’ of the hotel drew us into this project,” said Bill Tremper, chief operating officer of California-based Alpha Wave Investors, LLC, which bought the hotel in 2017. “Our overall intent is to restore the hotel as a social gathering spot for the whole community,” he said, adding that the group hopes its efforts will draw other businesses to downtown.
The renovations are being financed by a $670,000 loan from the city and Alpha Wave’s private capital. If Alpha Wave maintains the property as a hotel for ten years, the city will forgive the loan.
“We want to bring out the age and patina of the older rooms while making sure they’re super clean,” he said. The owners will work to maintain different sizes and shapes of the forty-six rooms on the upper two levels, with nightly prices ranging from $100 to $150. Street level will include a spacious new lobby with the original stone fireplace, antiques saved from the early days, a market cafe with ready-made food, a large room for hosting events and perhaps a social club.
With a commitment to sustainability, Alpha Wave plans to repurpose the original fir floors, repair lath and plaster walls, replace single-pane windows with double panes, add solar panels to the roof, install LED lighting and use tankless, on-demand water heating. “We employ efficient processes throughout our properties, from solar to water conservation to composting and minimal waste programs,” said Ken Cruse, founding partner and chief executive officer. “In doing our part in minimizing our footprint, we’re helping the communities that host us to flourish.”
A highlight of the renovations will be a greenhouse-themed rooftop bar with seating for about fifty people and 360-degree views that include Smith Rock and the Cascade Mountains. The owner will begin opening the hotel in phases, with the rooftop bar targeted for July, the street-level cafe for September and guest rooms in February 2019.
Since bringing beer production in-house in 2014, Sunriver Brewing Company has been turning out consistently solid, flavorful beers while winning awards locally and nationally. Head brewer Brett Thomas leads a team of talented brewers producing a wide range of styles, including a series on the cutting edge of trends, hazy IPAs.
Photo of Brett Thomas by Alex Jordan
At Sunriver you’ve really embraced the hazy New England-style IPA, a style that has exploded in popularity in recent years. Why do you think the style is so appealing?
I think it’s appealing for a number of reasons. We’re really getting to work with different mouthfeel components from the wheat and oats in the grist, lower levels of bitterness and higher levels of residual sweetness from the yeast selection and a brave new world of hop flavors and aromas from the varieties being used, the quantities being used and where we’re using them in the process.
You have a solid lineup of award-winning beers and a firm grasp of the classic styles, but what’s the most “out there” style you’ve tackled?
From recent memory, I’d say it was the ThaiPA we brewed last summer. The beer was a moderate gravity, low bitterness IPA with the addition of ginger, lime zest, kaffir lime leaves, purple basil and dragon chilis. It was certainly one of the most unique beers we’ve worked on and was actually really tasty.
Going into Memorial Day to kick off the official summer season here, what are your favorite styles of beer to drink during the summer?
Mexican Lager, Fuzztail Hefeweizen, Electric Avenue Session IPA, and a new beer that we’ll be debuting at the Oregon Brewers Festival called Hugs and Flip Flops. It’s a pale, hoppy wheat beer brewed with Oregon grown Amarillo hops.
A Sisters ranch is poised to culminate the decades Kathy Deggendorfer has devoted to fostering an arts economy for Central Oregon.
Inside one of Oregon’s last remaining round barns, hand-built nearly a century ago on a Sisters ranch dating back to 1850, Kathy Deggendorfer is looking up at the elegant slope of the conical roof, supported by a swirl of wooden beams. She marvels at the craftsmanship, speculating about the Old World design origins of the space where horses had been trained for decades. A square opening cut into the wall frames a snow-dusted Black Butte, one of a swath of surrounding peaks. Beyond that, a grove of cottonwoods, some of the oldest east of the Cascades, rustles in the breeze. Whychus Creek winds by, singing its liquid song.
Along the creek, about a dozen more 1930s structures stand as sentinels to that era and make up what is called Pine Meadow Ranch. There’s a bunkhouse, caretaker’s cottage, woodworking sheds, tack rooms and a home designed by one of Oregon’s preeminent architects, Ellis F. Lawrence, the mind behind a score of historic buildings around the state, such as the University of Oregon’s Jordan Schnitzer Museum of Art in Eugene.
Relatively few in Central Oregon may know of Pine Meadow Ranch—yet. The 260 acres was ranched, farmed and beloved for nearly a half-century by aviatrix and rodeo stalwart Dorro Sokol, who died last year at age 90. With riparian stretches close to town being scooped up for development, Deggendorfer swooped in and bought it in November to preserve the land, the views and historic buildings, and with the hope of creating a center for exploration of the arts and sciences through the lens of life on a working ranch.
This vision builds on her three decades of shaping the cultural life of the region, from grassroots work in the early days of the Sisters Folk Festival and the Sisters Quilt Show to supporting arts, education, environment and social services in surrounding counties and around the state. Hundreds of these efforts have been funded through The Roundhouse Foundation, which she began in 2002 with her mother, Gert Boyle, known as “one tough mother” from ad campaigns for her company, Columbia Sportswear. (The 94-year-old lives in Portland and has had a longtime affinity for Central Oregon.) Their goal has been to help celebrate creativity, particularly efforts in which artists serve as positive role models and mentors for children, and to create a new arts-driven economy for Central Oregon. With the addition of Pine Meadow Ranch, Deggendorfer is poised to take her vision to a new level.
“I thought, ‘What can we manage and what can we do here?’” she said, strolling the ranch in black boots, her hands in the pockets of a Columbia barn jacket. “I was not willing to see the loss of the view-scapes and the loss of agriculture. I don’t really need to take on this whole other project at 67. I could be a person who plays bridge and golf, but I just can’t. It’s just not right. I want to make a community that we want to live in, and if it’s done in the right way, the rest of the country might come along.”
For her, simply complaining about things is not an option.
A Creative Vision
Throughout her life, Deggendorfer, an accomplished painter, has found that the most inspiring discussions, and the most creative problem-solving, happen when artists and scientists of seemingly disparate disciplines come together to think and work. As she began formulating her vision for Pine Meadow Ranch, she wanted to look at potential models of the concept, but she also wanted others’ perspectives, too, so through The Roundhouse Foundation, she awarded scholarships to eighteen artists for residencies around the nation and abroad. “I chose working artists who are strong-willed, rather than someone who might try to say what they think I’d hoped,” said Deggendorfer.
The artists reported on their experiences, which helped Deggendorfer crystalize a vision for Pine Meadow Ranch. Her dream is to foster a place to connect the arts and sciences with the crafts and skills integral to ranching life: managing livestock, growing crops, preserving food, training horses and dogs, doing leatherwork, woodwork, glasswork, metalwork, ceramics and textiles, painting, photography, music, managing and enhancing Whychus Creek, riparian study, sustainable energy, recreation and social events.
“It’s about honoring that can-do, gotta do-it-yourself spirit,” said Deggendorfer.
For now, it remains a vision. In the short term, her focus is on inviting artists to do individual residencies on land zoned for agricultural and forest uses. “We don’t know what it can be, because we’re honoring the land-use laws and working diligently with the county to see what we are allowed to do, what we can do and how we can work with them to achieve the goal,” she said.
Preserving the working ranch would fit synergistically with a new creative space emulating the agricultural history of Sisters. It would be easily accessible to the community, a ten-minute walk for Sisters schoolchildren coming to the ranch for historical tours, and for artists to contribute to village life, too.
“A farm is a place where things happen—things are grown there beyond food,” she said. “There is a sense of community and thought, such that someday the next cure for whatever ails might come out of an author meeting with a scientist and a woodworker, and saying, ‘Did you ever think of this?’ And it sparks a whole new idea.”
For instance, she pointed to Finland’s Aalto University, which is gaining global awareness of a new environmentally friendly manufacturing process for making textiles. The multidisciplinary science and art community emphasizes that new opportunities and products require open collaboration across organizational and national boundaries.
Like the celebrated, visionary Fab Lab at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology, which lets anyone design and execute small-scale manufacturing digitally and cheaply, the ranch could offer myriad opportunities, from environmental study to learning songwriting or painting from a resident artist.
“Sisters is a perfect place for this because we have a terrific brain trust and philanthropic community that wants to stay engaged, share what they have and create a place for young minds to grow,” she said.
Back at the Ranch
Since buying the ranch, Deggendorfer and her husband, Frank, have focused on cleanup, salvaging whatever is useful or speaks to its past, from an old forge and branding equipment to a vintage sleigh and enamel cookstove. A monitor-style barn is made of lodgepole beams harvested from the property and has floors of Douglas fir from a nearby stand, now gone. The cat’s-eye pattern of the wallboards was designed by nature—the sweating of the hay stored in the loft. Those who’d gone to house concerts there years ago had described the acoustics of the space, above the adjacent cattle sorting-pens and squeeze shoots. “It was like being inside a guitar,” said Deggendorfer.
She hopes that in the next few years she will be inviting scientists, woodworkers, ceramic artists, painters, chefs and authors to the ranch for residencies and to join locals, exchanging ideas and creative thought. The concept is an extension of her 2014 exhibit, “Painting Oregon’s Harvest: The Art of Kathy Deggendorfer” at the High Desert Museum, which is now traveling to museums around the state. For that show, Deggendorfer visited working farms, fisheries, cherry, pear and apple orchards, vineyards, Bandon cranberry bogs, and ranches in Central and Eastern Oregon, depicting the beauty and bounty of Oregon-grown food.
“All that study I did is coming full circle,” she said. “It’s not just an art project anymore. The ranch is the opposite of the virtual world, it’s about whatever the body needs and sustains it. How do we honor this place where we are, and how do we not defile this place?”
One Tough Family
Transforming a ranch into a new-styled center for the arts and sciences would be daunting to most people, but Deggendorfer isn’t most people. Those close to her point to a personal history that has primed her for it.
In 1970, when she was 19 studying at the University of Oregon, her father, Joseph Cornelius “Neal” Boyle, died suddenly of a heart attack at age 47. Her mother, a 46-year-old housewife with no business experience, took his place at the helm of Columbia Sportswear, a small and financially struggling outerwear manufacturer that her father had founded in Portland.
Deggendorfer’s younger sister, Sarah “Sally” Bany, said this was a formative moment for all three children. “Mom jumped into the business, and we are all seeing mom doing that. One day you’re this, and the next day something like this happens, and you’ve just got to go for it,” she said. “It’s ingrained in all of us.”
Many expected Boyle to fail, but with her son, Tim Boyle, now the company’s president, CEO and director, they turned it into a leading global retailer of outdoor apparel, footwear and equipment with sales of nearly $2.5 billion last year. The ads featuring Gert as “one tough mother” made her an industry icon, but Deggendorfer said her childhood memories reveal her mother’s true self. “Employees would come to her strapped for cash, needing money for rent or to have their teeth fixed, and even though she didn’t have any money at all, she’d give them money or somehow take care of them, knowing they’d pay her back. She is a very generous person and has a lot of empathy for people.
“That persona of a tough mother, she’s the opposite of that,” she said. “She’ll definitely tell you what she thinks and is not going to take guff from anyone, but she’s protective, empathetic, caring … and taught us [children] all to be.”
Gert Boyle’s book, One Tough Mother: Taking Charge in Life, Business, and Apple Pies, chronicles her journey. She wrote it with Kerry Tymchuk, director of the Oregon Historical Society.
He said, “What Kathy has done for Sisters, turning it into a hub for artistic, creative minds is remarkable, and [Pine Meadow Ranch] is another step down the road of saving an architectural treasure and turning it into something to benefit the region. The fact that her mom is still going strong at 94 is just a little hint of where she gets it. Kathy’s just a force of nature, with a wonderful, self-deprecating sense of humor—she takes her vision of what she wants seriously, but doesn’t take herself seriously.”
In that vein, Deggendorfer quipped that Gert’s spirit may have “skipped a generation” to Deggendorfer’s daughter, Erin Borla. The 38-year-old of Sisters spearheads Columbia’s ReThreads program, which encourages customers to bring in their used clothing to be recycled into fibers for new products such as insulation, carpet padding, stuffing for toys and new fabric, diverting tons of waste from landfills. One of the barns at the Pine Meadow Ranch is also a temporary staging area for the company’s end-of-season coats, boots and other sportswear, which is sorted and delivered to nonprofits.
Columbia’s chairman of the board, who still works daily at her office in Portland, reflected on what shapes one’s work.
“As life goes on, you really think, ‘This is what I’d like to do,’ but I don’t think it should ever be written in stone,” said Boyle. “Things present themselves. I took over Columbia and that certainly was not in the plan, for my husband to die and I’d have to take over, but things present themselves, like the new ranch that Kathy and Frank bought. They were thinking about doing something like that, and the opportunity presented itself.”
At the ranch, the round barn mirrors a round house for which the Deggendorfers’ foundation is named. Kathy recalled that growing up, her family had a small house in Lincoln Beach, and Neal Boyle would tell his children they could wander no farther than the round house. “It was that thing that Dad would say to us kids: ‘Run to the round house! They’ll never corner you there!’”
All these years later, it seems she’s still listening.
Recognized by his peers as an industry leader, Paul Israel has helped pioneer Oregon’s green energy movement.
Paul Israel with his son.
A New Hampshire native and longtime Bend resident, Paul Israel opened Oregon’s first Sunlight Solar Energy storefront in Redmond in 1997, selling RV power accessories and off-grid products. Since then the business has added offices in Connecticut, Massachusetts and Portland, Oregon and has completed over 2,000 solar installations. Israel was recognized in 2012 as Oregon’s Solar Professional of the Year by the nonprofit industry advocate Solar Oregon. He spoke with Bend Magazine about the state of the solar industry and what the future holds for renewable energy.
How long have you been involved in renewable energy and how did you get started?
I started with a Ralph Nader fuel oil buying cooperative in the late 1980s in Washington, D.C. I got a taste of the power of energy to shape our environment and society.
Is Bend a good incubator for solar businesses?
I was running a solar business in Portland and Eugene, which was before the technology was so widely spread or accepted as it is today. So the first question I always got in the Willamette Valley was, “We don’t get much sun here—does solar work?” When I came over to Bend the question was, “We have so much sunshine, shouldn’t everyone be using solar?” So, for a solar business, Bend was a perfect incubator.
How has the company evolved over the past decade?
We have gone from the proverbial one employee to eighty-four employees in five offices in Bend, Portland, Colorado Springs, Boston and New Haven. We have full benefits and are exploring employee empowerment programs such as employee stock ownership plans and the cooperative model.
Where do you see the biggest opportunities in the solar industry over the next decade and how does Sunlight Solar plan to position itself?
We see growth happening in the larger, utility-scale projects, requiring us to have more sophisticated, financially educated employees. We also see opportunity in community solar (projects where a single solar array is owned by, or serves, multiple customers), which means understanding a law that is currently being enacted in Oregon to promote that initiative. Also, we will keep abreast of building trends, such as the use of integrated solar panels, namely solar-ready shingles that look like average shingles but generate electricity.
What are the biggest changes and challenges facing the solar and renewable energy industry right now?
Increasing prices. China was found to trading unfairly and all imports into the U.S. have been slapped with a 30 percent tariff. In addition, the aluminum industry just saw a 10 percent tariff. These are direct increases that have stopped cold a decade of continual price decreases.
Can the solar industry survive and thrive without strong state and federal incentives for business and consumers?
One could ask if the oil, gas and coal industries could survive without incentives that have been around for decades longer and exponentially higher than anything the renewable energy industry receives. For the coal industry the answer is obvious. If the playing field were level, solar would be even more competitive. Likewise, the cheap power that folks in the Oregon rural co-ops pay is a result of taxpayer investment in hydroelectric power. Is that the “free market” or is that a government incentive? Finally, if you believe like I do, that climate change and its consequences are the biggest threat to our children, then you need a widespread social and community response. It seems it will take continued catastrophes to motivate the people and politicians to do the right thing and invest in solar. Our nation could easily generate 100 percent of its power with wind, solar and other renewables.
Top 5 Energy Sources in Oregon
Hydroelectric – 40%
Coal – 32%
Natural Gas – 17%
Wind – 6%
Nuclear – 3%
Biomass, solar, geothermal, biogas, waste and others – <1%
The best dishes in some of the region’s most popular brunch restaurants. Who decided that only moms love brunch? Yes, Mother’s Day is synonymous with brunch, but the dual-purpose meal has become a whole new ballgame. There’s a brunch restaurant for every culinary trend, monster-sized drinks that could easily be a meal on their own and a new use for that charming Craftsman in your neighborhood. In Central Oregon, the brunch line is as ubiquitous as the lift line. With so many options, it’s impossible to narrow down the best or the favorite, but these are the dishes that make us want to skip the standard soggy cereal and indulge.
Christie’s Kitchen
Order: The quiche, made special every day
Christie Bryant of Christie’s Kitchen in Redmond wouldn’t call her restaurant a brunch destination, even if other people might. “We’re a breakfast and lunch restaurant, but we serve breakfast all day,” she said. “Especially on the weekend, our guests really enjoy the option of all-day breakfast.”
Christie and her husband Gary sold their previous restaurant, the Country Nook, over a decade ago to retire. “But I got bored,” said Bryant. Christie’s Kitchen was born in a red house in downtown Redmond six years ago to immediate popularity, given the frequent line out the front door. The menu is diner happiness, from biscuits and gravy to an eight-ounce sirloin to a malted waffle. Homemade cinnamon rolls or muffins are a delicious smaller treat, or go big with chicken fried steak, country gravy, eggs and potatoes.
Bryant’s “brunch” choice? The quiche. She makes it herself with handmade pie crust and different fillings every day. “I like them all, as long as they don’t have mushrooms,” said Bryant. Try the bacon spinach Swiss quiche or the club quiche, which mimics the namesake sandwich with smoked turkey, bacon, American cheese, Swiss cheese, ham and fresh grilled tomatoes. The quiche comes with fruit or hashbrowns, or upgrade to a soup or salad. When you’re finished, wave into the open kitchen to thank Bryant yourself for a great meal—just don’t call it brunch. — Kim Cooper Findling
Chow
Order: The Blackstone
In peak season, there’s going to be a line out the door of Chow no matter what day of the week. Not to worry, though, as there are bloody marys and mimosas to tide you over until you can nab a table at the popular west side Bend breakfast and lunch destination. Known for its commitment to locally sourced ingredients, including from the onsite garden, Chow offers a unique take on traditional and Southern-style flavors. Everything is made from scratch, from the sourdough toast to the innovative hot sauces like habanero carrot at each table.
There are classic breakfast options to choose from, but Chow is the kind of place to get out of your breakfast comfort zone. The Blackstone is a new take on eggs Benedict, with cornmeal-crusted tomatoes serving as the platter for smoked bacon, spinach and two perfectly poached eggs. A bernaise sauce, similar to a hollandaise but with more acidity from white wine vinegar and includes shallots and herbs, is poured over the top of it all. The result is a savory dish that feels fresh with each bite.
Opt for the bacon cheddar grits on the side instead of standard fried potatoes. The Southern delight could be a standalone meal, with bits of bacon and melted cheese inside a not too mushy, not too grainy corn grit. This is comfort food at its finest and what keeps people coming back. — Bronte Dod
Jackson’s Corner
Order: The Cristo
When Jackson’s Corner opened its doors on the corner of Delaware Avenue and Broadway Street more than a decade ago, it was on the leading edge of the local farm-to-table movement, with an emphasis on fresh and local ingredients and handmade breads and pastas. Today the cafe is an institution in Bend, having expanded to a second location near St. Charles Hospital.
The breakfast menu is straightforward, but the execution is pitch perfect on standards like huevos rancheros, prepared with Imperial Stock Ranch beef chorizo, and the playful Green Eggs (and ham), pesto scrambled eggs with shaved parmigiano-reggiano. But if we had to select just one dish that embodies Bend’s brunch ethos, it would be Jackson’s Cristo, a sweet and savory delight that is part lunch sandwich and part breakfast plate in one decadent package.
A variation of the traditional croque monsieur, a fried ham sandwich that appeared in French cafes in the early 20th century, the Cristo takes the concept to another level with egg-drenched French bread enveloping thinly sliced Hill’s ham and Tillamook Swiss cheese. The entire concoction is then pan fried to crispy perfection. Jackson’s finishes the sandwich with a fried egg perched atop. A dusting of powdered sugar and a side of maple syrup completes this brunch de resistance. — Eric Flowers
McKay Cottage
Order: Stuffed French Toast
The service at McKay Cottage is just about as charming as the 20th-century Craftsman that was converted into the brunch destination. Servers buzz around the tables, topping off coffee, chatting with regulars and balancing the plates that come stacked with food. The restaurant is off the beaten path for Bend standards, overlooking the Deschutes River on O.B. Riley Road, but that doesn’t stop the hordes of people who will wait in line for a table.
McKay Cottage has been open for more than a decade and is well known for its scratch-made dishes and freshly baked treats. If your meal doesn’t come with an incredibly light buttery scone, splurge and order one for the table, especially one that comes with a seasonal fruit baked inside. There are more than enough options to choose from for breakfast, including classic favorites such as eggs Benedict and biscuits and gravy, as well as modern takes such as breakfast burritos and even what can only be described as breakfast nachos.
The stuffed French toast is one of the best options. The typical hearty slice of toast is swapped for a flaky croissant, which is stuffed with an Italian mascarpone, a citrus and cheese filling. The entire concoction is dipped in batter, grilled and topped with a strawberry compote. It’s less adventure-fuel and more indulgence, but entirely worth the wait. — Bronte Dod
Bos Taurus Chef George Morris leverages modern techniques for classic steakhouse fare with a progressive American twist.
It’s the early ’90s in suburban Chicago. A 7-year-old boy, at home on the couch in his basement, is flipping through channels and comes across a cooking show. It’s with a lady who talks funny, so he stops, then watches as Julia Child prepares coq au vin. He’d never seen anything like it before.
That moment was what set George Morris on his life’s path. He asked his mother about the dish of chicken braised with wine. “That weekend, my parents took me downtown to a French bistro,” he said. “They were really good at recognizing how interested I was, and they’d take me to new, hip restaurants, ones with open kitchens where I could watch the cooks and chefs doing what I do now.”
Chef George Morris
Today, as the chef of Bos Taurus, an intimate downtown Bend restaurant serving some of the highest quality beef from around the globe, Morris feels that he has finally found his true home after nearly two decades in the industry. While at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, N.Y., he’d done stages at some of Manhattan’s best restaurants, from Le Bernardin and Daniel to Per Se and WD-50. He was sous chef at 5 Ninth in New York City (working with Chef Zak Pelaccio, James Beard Award winner of Best Chef Northeast) and at some of Chicago’s top restaurants. He rose to executive chef at Truffle Pig in Steamboat Springs, Colo. By 2015, he’d become executive chef at The Madeline Hotel and Residences in Telluride, Colo., overseeing the luxury resort’s three restaurants.
After he and his wife, Kellie, visited her father in Bend, George asked his father-in-law to let him know if he ever heard of any executive chef positions here. At the same time, the team behind 10 Barrel Brewing, founders Chris and Jeremy Cox, company president Kyle McKee and James Meskill, director of operations of The High End (the craft brands of Anheuser-Busch, which bought 10 Barrel in 2014), were looking to launch something new in Bend’s culinary scene. They got a lead that Barrio was looking to expand and leave its spot on Minnesota Avenue.
“It had been super successful, and some of our favorite restaurants had been there, such as Mars,” said Meskill. “And all of us remembered how much fun that place was, and we were excited to be the next in line.”
The space dictated the concept—a twist on a classic American steakhouse. “We wanted to keep it simple, classic, somewhat timeless, with clean lines, but with a Bend feel, not stuffy. We wanted to have fun with it.” Morris learned of it, came out to meet the team, and they hit it off. He said he wanted to grow with the endeavor, and they offered him a partnership.
Morris researched ranches, selected thirteen, and sourced seventy-five steaks. “Every cut we thought we wanted to use: porterhouse, ribeye, filet, New York, bavette and hanger.”
In one night, the five partners and general manager Jim Kiefer tasted all of them. “It was one of the greatest and worst days of my life,” said Meskill. They compared notes and voted unanimously on about a dozen steaks from five ranches. The ones that made the cut for the opening last year range from Japanese Hokkaido A5 Wagyu, with its off-the-chart marbling for tenderness and flavor, to the hanger steak from 7X Ranch in Hotchkiss, Colo., where the sustainably raised cattle graze on nine types of grasses.
Morris rubs the steaks with hickory-smoked salt and a blend of peppercorns and seasonings, sears them on a custom-made, two-inch thick, 200-pound, cast iron slab heated to 550°F, removes them, rubs them with local butter, lets them rest, and re-sears them to achieve the perfect crust and medium-rare doneness.
“I don’t think people realize how difficult it is to cook a perfect steak … every time,” said Morris. “It’s hard to find a staff that can do that daily. They’re amazing.” Morris and Meskill said the most important ingredient in any restaurant’s success is the quality of the staff, and they’ve got it.
Tumalo couple Rand and Holly Rodes Smithey are both self-taught artists who collaborate on contemporary art.
Randy and Holly Rodes Smithey
Lovers of contemporary art and natural desertscapes will find the perfect confluence of the two off Innes Market Road near Tumalo. That’s where Rand and Holly Rodes Smithey have built their home on ten acres with Cascade Mountain views and studios for making and showing art. The place is relatively easy to spot—just look for the contemporary metal sculptures rising from a former hay field in seemingly random displays of curves and geometry.
As they walk visitors through their two studios, the couple recounts meeting each other in 2002, marrying in 2006 and the collaboration that’s defined their lives. “It’s been about us coming together and having a similar eye,” said Holly, with Rand adding, “We tend to gravitate to the same pieces when viewing art.”
Rand Smithey
Their artistic expression is decidedly abstract and non-representational. In general, Rand creates steel sculptures, large and small, on wood and stone pedestals. He and Holly occasionally collaborate on large sculptures and metal paintings. Holly assembles patinaed metal and mixed media into paintings for wall display. Both spend time metalsmithing in the studio they built in 2004 and remodeled three times to accommodate their growing need for space. They recently finished a second studio with high, open spaces and a profusion of natural light for Rand’s big acrylic and oil paintings.
Self-taught, Holly enjoys the sense of discovery and physical aspects of making art. She moved to Bend in 1996 and worked for five years at the paddle company, Kialoa, where she hand-shaped outrigger canoe paddles. “I liked using my hands to create things,” she said, using that experience to segue into welding to express her art after meeting Rand.
“I draw inspiration from a sense of place and its connection with architecture and the natural world,” she said. “The work is guided by this combination of transitions, a fabric of rhythm and pattern between the visual and physical in a sculptural way.”
Also self-taught, Rand was influenced by “the wonderful sculpture collection” at Western Washington University in Bellingham where he studied science and literature. “I take pieces of vocabulary, transform and recombine them to create my own abstract visual language,” he said. “Sometimes I use explicit symbols. In my paintings, the ladder is metaphor for aspiration, our need to become more than we are, more than we think we can be, more than others expect of us. It’s about transcendence.” Rand often borrows from literature to title his paintings, including “Sea Starved Hungry Sea,” from a poem by W. B. Yeats or “Earth in Forgetful Snow,” from a poem by T.S. Eliot.
The Smithey’s gallery and workshop at home.
To share their love of art and artmaking, the Smitheys conduct workshops and are offering a new series of one-to-three-day classes from May through August. They’ll be teaching welding, mixed media techniques of acrylic paint on copper, abstract painting with the influence of poetry and abstract painting with the influence of sound. “We love the amazing energy participants bring,” said Holly, and Rand adds, “It’s a relaxed atmosphere with lots of room for people to explore.”
Both Rand and Holly have joined the Peterson/Roth Gallery in downtown Bend as gallery artists and will be the featured artists in May. Gallery Director Ken Roth said the pair has been active in the Central Oregon art scene for years and has a loyal following. “It’s unique to have a married couple who share ideas and a work space,” he said.
The Smitheys also do commissioned pieces, and their work, which sells for $500 up to $9,000, is collected coast to coast. Members of the public can make an appointment to visit their studios and meet the artists.
Five of the best mountain biking trails to ride in Central Oregon this spring. The snow has (mostly) melted off the lower elevations and some of the region’s best mountain biking trails are opening up for spring rides. Check out these easy to intermediate mountain biking trails across Central Oregon.
Cline Butte
Inside the Cline Buttes Recreation Area, the Cline Butte Trail is a perfect spring mountain biking trail. While the rest of the area is low in elevation, this trail climbs up Cline Butte. There are some steep grades that will get your heart pumping, as well as a fast downhill on the way back. The downhill is technical, with some steep rocks, but there are three routes down that all lead back to the trailhead, so you can pick the best option for you. The views at the top overlooking Redmond and the Cascades are well worth the ride.
Location: Redmond Type: Loop Level: Intermediate Length: 8 miles Open: Year-round; Best riding in late fall to late spring.
Lower 66
The Ochocos are well known for stellar trails, but most are ranked intermediate to advanced. Lower 66 trail system is close by in Prineville and offers some easier trails for beginners. There are five trails to choose from that all connect, but Rocky Racoon is the easiest loop in the trail 66-acre trail system. The trail has a few rocks to navigate as well as as a rock bridge over a creek.
Location: Prineville Type: Series of loops Level: Beginner to intermediate Length: 4.2 miles total, but can be broken up into shorter loops Open: Year-round
Black Rock Trail
This is one of the oldest mountain biking trails in Central Oregon. It begins at the Lava Lands Visitor Center near the Newberry National Volcanic Monument and ends at a connection on the Deschutes River Trail between Bend and Sunriver. The ride doesn’t have much elevation gain and isn’t considered technical, so it’s a good trail to try if you’re new to mountain biking. The name comes from the lava flow that the trail parallels. Take the turnoff about halfway down the trail. You’ll ride on a quarter-mile trail to an overlook that’s worth the detour.
Location: Between Bend and Sunriver Type: Out and back Level: Beginner Length: 8.2 miles total Open: May-October
Lake Creek
You won’t find many people on this trail, which is one of the newer hiking and mountain biking trails near Sisters. The 4.5-mile trail begins near Camp Sherman at the community hall. The double-track trail winds through the old-growth forest, a section of the Metolius Preserve before finally reaching Suttle Lake. While there are a few hills, the trail is considered easy and a great ride for beginners who want to work on their skills riding over roots and rocks without the crowds sharing trails.
Location: Camp Sherman Type: Out and back Level: Beginner Length: 9 miles total Open: Year-round, condition dependent
Catch and Release
Catch and Release is in the Wanoga Trail System, which doesn’t open until June. It’s a connector trail from the Forest Service Welcome Station on Cascade Lakes Highway to the more difficult trails in that area, but it’s a great trail for beginners to try. You also extend your ride and catch the loops of Lower Stormking or Tyler’s Traverse.
Location: Bend Type: Out and back Level: Beginner Length: 9 miles Open: Year-round
Mark your calendars for these concerts and music festivals in Central Oregon this summer.
Photo by Mitch Wiewel. Courtesy of Elk Lake Resort.
While Central Oregon regularly produces a solid lineup of shows and festivals throughout the year, summer is really where we hit our stride. From raucous shows on the lawn at the Les Schwab Amphitheater to folk festivals out on high desert ranches, these are the concerts and music festivals in Central Oregon and beyond that you don’t want to miss this summer.
Note: This list will be updated as more shows are announced and dates are confirmed, so check back throughout the summer for the latest shows.
Ray Lamontagne and Neko Case
May 30
Les Schwab Amphitheater
In a pairing that ensures the music gods were looking out for Bend this summer, singer-songwriter Ray Lamontagne and Neko Case (with her first solo album in five years) will be performing at the Les Schwab Amphitheater and opening a summer concert lineup of your dreams.
Jethro Tull
June 8
Les Schwab Amphitheater
Classic rock favorite Jethro Tull comes to the Les Schwab Amphitheater. Jethro Tull just released a new album and is on its 50th anniversary tour.
Slightly Stoopid
June 9
Les Schwab Amphitheater
Reggae band Slightly Stoopid will be in town again this summer. If last year’s performance is any indication, the reggae band will throw a party the whole town will be talking about.
Corner Gospel Explosion
June 16
Elk Lake Resort
One of the region’s best places to listen to live music in the summer is also one of the most scenic. Elk Lake Resort hosts a series of outdoor concerts for everyone. This season kicks off with Corner Gospel Explosion.
Michael Franti
June 19
Les Schwab Amphitheater
Is there any other town that loves Michael Franti more than Bend does? Back again this summer, Michael Franti will be taking over the lawn at the Les Schwab Amphitheater with his feel good summer jams.
Chris Isaak
June 21
Athletic Club of Bend
Singer-songwriter Chris Isaak kicks off the Clear Summer Nights concert series at the Athletic Club of Bend. The musician is known for the hit songs “Wicked Game,” “Baby Did A Bad Bad Thing” and “Somebody’s Crying.”
4 Peaks Music Festival
June 21-24
Stevenson Ranch
Each year, 4 Peaks Music Festival brings in some of the best acts in bluegrass, folk, Americana and more to a four-day festival in Bend. The event includes plenty of camping sites and activities for the whole family to enjoy.
Primus and Mastodon
June 23
Les Schwab Amphitheater
Rock bands Primus and Mastodon take the stage by the Deschutes River. These two acts bookend the “prog” rock genre but share a cult-like following. Pack your “moshing” shoes and your ear protection. It’s about to get loud.
Bill Keale
June 23
Elk Lake Resort
Spend one of the longest days of the year, at least in daylight terms, up at Elk Lake for an outdoor concert featuring Bill Keale. Pack some chairs for a picnic or eat at the lodge while you listen.
ZuhG
June 30
Elk Lake Resort
ZuhG is a jam group from Sacremento that will surely have the crowd on its feet at Elk Lake Resort.
Crawfest Music Festival
July 6-8
Powell Butte
The Crawfest Music Festival is a three-day music event that rocks Powell Butte in July. You’ll rock and roll, country, hip hop, EDM and more across two stages at an old ranch. There’s local food and drink vendors onsite as well as activities that the whole family can enjoy, including a nightly bonfire. It’s also one of the most affordable summer music festivals in Oregon.
Steve Martin, Martin Short and the Steep Canyon Rangers
July 6
Les Schwab Amphitheater
Steve Martin has completed one of the most successful pivots in show business and we are fully on board. Actors and comedians Steve Martin, also a successful folk musician, and Martin Short will be at the Les Schwab Amphitheater to perform their comedy/music act. The Steep Canyon Rangers and Jeff Babko will also be performing in the show dubbed “An Evening You Will Forget for the Rest of Your Life.”
Wheeler County Bluegrass Festival
July 6-8
Fossil
Bluegrass connoisseurs won’t want to miss the Wheeler County Bluegrass Festival held in Fossil. The annual show brings out bluegrass bands to entertain throughout the weekend and hosts other activities and events for families.
Broken Down Guitars
July 7
Elk Lake Resort
A Central Oregon favorite, Broken Down Guitars will be playing at Elk Lake Resort on July 7. Get to the resort early to find a spot because this concert will be busy.
Bookends
July 14
Elk Lake Resort
Bookends, a Simon and Garfunkel tribute band, will be playing at on the shores of Elk Lake.
G Bots and the Journeymen
July 21
Elk Lake Resort
Hometown band G Bots and Journeymen will be at Elk Lake. Take a break from your normal weekday routine and head up to the lodge to listen and a enjoy a hot summer evening.
Jackson Browne
July 24
Les Schwab Amphitheater
Seventies icon and erstwhile Eagles collaborator, Jackson Browne makes a stop in Bend on his West Coast tour. The “Running on Empty” singer-songwriter is a must-see for classic rock lovers.
Sheryl Crow
July 25
Les Schwab Amphitheater
Everyone’s favorite rock-country-pop crossover Sheryl Crow will be at the Les Schwab Amphitheater this summer. Her last studio album was released in 2017.
The Decemberists
July 26
Les Schwab Amphitheater
A Pacific Northwest favorite from Portland, The Decemberists arrive on the banks of the Deschutes River on July 26. The band always puts a great show and will be performing songs from their newest album, I’ll Be Your Girl.
Newberry Event Music & Arts Festival
July 27-29
Diamondstone Guest Lodges
Don’t miss this music festival in La Pine, a benefit for Defeat MS. The Newberry Event Music & Arts Festival in the woods at the Diamondstone Guest Lodges will have more than twenty bands throughout the weekend. It’s a family-friendly festival full of activities everyone will enjoy.
Kayleb James
July 28
Elk Lake Resort
From Redmond, Kayleb James and his guitar will be at Elk Lake Resort for a show.
Sisters Rhythm & Brews Festival
August 3-4
Village Green City Park
A new festival comes to Sisters this summer. The Sisters Rhythm & Brews Festival is a two-day music event with craft brews and live music from John Mayall, Nikki Hill, Curtis Selgado, Hillstomp and more.
Willie Nelson and Alison Kraus
August 4
Les Schwab Amphitheater
Tickets are already sold out for this show. Willie Nelson takes the stage in August along with Alison Krauss, creating a folk lineup that will surely be talked about for awhile.
Doc Ryan and the Whychus Creek Band
August 4
Elk Lake Resort
Doc Ryan and the Whychus Creek Band is an Americana and blues band taking the stage at Elk Lake Resort in August. It’s a popular band in the region that always puts on a great show.
Pixies
August 5
Les Schwab Amphitheater
The seminal alt-rock band of the 1990s is still going strong and will be in Bend at the Les Schwab Amphitheater playing songs from a catalog that reads like college radio playlist circa 1993 along with material from the more recent studio albums from 2015 and 2016.
Amos Lee
August 9
Les Schwab Amphitheater
The rock, folk and soul singer-songwriter Amos Lee (“Windows Are Rolled Down” ring a bell?) comes to Bend this summer on tour with his most recent self-produced album.
Cosmonautical
August 11
Elk Lake Resort
Bend indie-rock band Cosmonautical, who released their first album in 2016, will be at Elk Lake this summer.
Joe Russo’s Almost Dead
August 12
Athletic Club of Bend
Playing “mostly Grateful Dead songs,” Joe Russo’s Almost Dead will take the stage at the Athletic Club of Bend this summer. The rock band was formed in 2013 in Brooklyn.
Rebelution
August 15
Athletic Club of Bend
Summer plus concerts plus Bend equals reggae. Rebelution, a popular reggae band, will be in Bend at the Athletic Club of Bend to perform for a night.
Moon Mountain Ramblers
August 18
Elk Lake Resort
Around for more than a decade, the Moon Mountain Ramblers are a favorite local band in Central Oregon that takes bluegrass to a new level.
Steve Miller Band and Peter Frampton
August 21
Les Schwab Amphitheater
They bring down the house every year. Steve Miller Band and Peter Frampton will once again perform by the river and will produce a show that is one of the most popular tickets in town.
Brandi Carlisle
August 25
Les Schwab Amphitheater
With a new album under her belt, Brandi Carlisle will be in Bend at the Les Schwab Amphitheater on August 25. The singer-songwriter puts on sought-after shows that everyone will love.
Honey Don’t
August 25
Elk Lake Resort
Fans of American and folk music will want to head to Elk Lake for the Honey Don’t concert in late August.
Dave Matthews Band
August 28
Les Schwab Amphitheater
The rock band that you couldn’t get out of your head in the late-nineties and early-aughts will be at the Les Schwab Amphitheater in August. Dave Matthews Band recently released its ninth studio album. Update: Tickets have sold out.
Portugal. The Man
August 31
Les Schwab Amphitheater
Portland darlings Portugal. The Man, fresh off their recent Grammy win, will be at the Les Schwab Amphitheater. Tickets are already on sale and are likely to go fast, so get yours now if you want them.
Melanie Rose Dyer and Daniel Cooper
September 1
Elk Lake Resort
Soak up the last days of summer at Elk Lake with a performance from Melanie Rose Dyer and Daniel Cooper in style they call “American roots music with R&B influences.”
Sisters Folk Festival
September 7-9
Sisters
After last year’s wildfire season left the town of Sisters too smoky to host the Sisters Folk Festival, the festival returns this year with high hopes. The festival always brings some of the best acts in folk, Americana and bluegrass music to the Western-themed town for a weekend with music around every corner.
Mark Ransom
September 8
Elk Lake Resort
Mark Ransom, who also founded Bend Roots Revival will close out the summer concert series at Elk Lake Resort. Don’t miss this outdoor concert from the popular folk duo.
The Head and the Heart
September 19
Les Schwab Amphitheater
Indie-folk favorite The Head and the Heart will be at Les Schwab in one of last days of summer. Portland band Blind Pilot will also be on stage with them.
Where to hike in the spring in Central Oregon when the mountains are still snowed in.
Some of the best hiking in Central Oregon can be found in the spring. The wildflowers are popping up, the weather isn’t too warm yet and the summer crowds haven’t yet rolled in. Here are five hikes from around the region for all ages and abilities. They each lead to some stellar views of the region.
Hager Mountain
This is one of the least trafficked hikes close to Central Oregon in the Fremont-Winema National Forest, and there are a few options to make it a short two-mile hike, or extend it for a six- or eight-mile hike. At the peak, where it’s possible to see as far south as Mt. Shasta on a clear day, there’s an active forest service fire lookout that is staffed in the summer. This is a hidden gem to spot wildflowers in the spring. The hike has some steep elements to it as you trek through the Ponderosa forest until you reach the clearing at the summit.
Distance: 2 miles out and back Hiking level: Moderate Parking: Free at the Hagar Mountain Trailhead Open: June-November
Iron Mountain Trail
The wildflowers won’t pop up here until July, but that just means that there will be less people on the trail when it opens up in June. There are a few trails from the Iron Mountain Trailhead. The Iron Mountain Trail is a little over one mile to the peak, but it is a scramble up switchbacks to get there. There’s a viewpoint where you can spot Mount Adams, Mount Hood and Mount Jefferson. The trail is west of Sisters off Highway 20 and about ten minutes past the Highway 26 intersection.
Distance: 3 miles out and back Hiking level: Moderate Parking: $5 or NW Forest Pass at the trailhead Open: June
Marion Lake Trail
In the Mt. Jefferson Wilderness area, the Marion Lake Trail is a great option for a moderate-level hike in the spring, with less traffic than it normally gets in the summer. The hike is the access point for a few lesser-known waterfalls in the region. Marion and Gatch Falls are just off the trail, while Gooch Falls is just off the road on the drive there. You’ll also pass Lake Ann along the way.
Distance: 5.2 mile loop Hiking level: Moderate Parking: $5 at the trailhead, or NW Forest Pass, and fill out a permit to enter Open: Year-round, but there may be some snow still past Lake Ann in early spring.
Gray Butte Loop Trail
Popular with mountain bikers and horseback riders, the Gray Butte Trail in the Ochoco National Forest and Crooked River Grasslands leads to some stellar views of the region at a little more than 5,000 feet in elevation. The trail is maintained by the Ochoco National Forest and the Central Oregon Trail Alliance, and they both caution that hikers and mountain bikers can do a lot of damage to the trails if it is too muddy. If you run into a lot of mud on the trail, it’s best to turn around. There are few other loops and trails in the area that lead to Smith Rock State Park. It’s labeled as “difficult” because of the steep terrain and loose rocks.
In the Deschutes National Forest, the Sand Mountain Lookout Trail is an easy two-mile hike that leads to a view of the Cascade Range as well as some of the region’s large alpine lakes. There’s a forest service lookout at the top of the trail that is staffed by volunteers. The region is a “geologic special interest area” for the forest service, with a one-of-a-kind cinder cone formation that you can see from the summit. This is a family-friendly hike that would be better to try in the spring before the weather gets too hot.
Beer is big business—$110 billion every year in the United States. While the nation’s more than 5,300 breweries are all duking it out for market share, there are really two competitors here: Craft and Big Box. It’s a David and Goliath tale, and in recent years, David’s been getting the best of the behemoths.
The story is in the numbers. For instance, in 2016 the beer industry saw zero growth overall, with national total output stagnating at right around 200 million barrels, according to the Beer Institute, the national beer trade association.
But Americans threw back 6.2 percent more craft beer than the prior year. The year before that, the increase was 13 percent, and it was 18 percent growth in 2014. Craft sales are now 22 percent of the total market, according to the Brewers Association, which tracks trends in the microbrew industry.
The craft brew industry has been pouring on the incredible growth for eight consecutive years as the nation’s brew pubs, microbreweries and regional breweries chip away at the market share that mega-breweries such as Anheuser-Busch, Miller and Pabst have held for more than one hundred years.
Losing ground has forced these and other industry giants to retool their strategies, including snapping up micros for themselves.Now, more than 30 microbreweries that were once trailblazers in the craft field are owned by titans: Ballast Point Brewing, Goose Island, Elysian and Lagunitas, just to name a few.
Here in Oregon, the trend began in 1997 when Widmer Brewing sold about 30 percent of itself to Anheuser-Busch InBev. Since then several other breweries have followed suit—either selling a portion or all of their interest to big beer—including Bend-based 10 Barrel Brewing, Hop Valley Brewing and Portland Brewing Company.
These arrangements allow large breweries to throw their weight behind these micro labels using their near-guaranteed shelf space and deep marketing pockets to try to grab a foothold in the growing craft industry. Still, even with this leg-up, the data shows that it’s the true micros that appear to be making the greatest strides in the industry, proving that, when it comes to beer, it pays to think, and to drink, independently.
Is this winter a precursor to Central Oregon’s new normal?
When it comes to snow, Central Oregonians are something like Eskimos. We have an entire vocabulary dedicated to the frozen white crystals (the “pow was totally blower, bro”) and whole industries dedicated to leveraging it for recreation. While the novelty of shoveling snow by the foot off your roof wears thin quickly, even those who never click into a ski or snowboard find something to appreciate about the abundance of snow that falls around Central Oregon.
It’s the reason that our most recent drought is a cause for concern, not only among skiers, but also scientists, retailers, resort owners and anyone else that benefits from Central Oregon’s position as a winter tourism destination.
As of early February, snowpack in the Deschutes basin was less than half of the annual average, with little hope of recouping the shortfall before the onset of spring. The winter that wasn’t comes on the heels of an epic Central Oregon winter last year when snow loads collapsed roofs and shoveling seemed a daily occurrence.
Yet, the barren winter of 2017-2018 is only three years removed from one of the warmest and snow free winters on record in Oregon, 2014-2015. That winter, or lack thereof, is linked by scientists to an intense wildfire season that followed, severe stream flow reductions and drought conditions that affected everyone from fishermen to farmers across the state.
Though no one is predicting an end to winter altogether, projected changes in global climate are expected to result in significant temperature increases in Oregon. Under the most extreme cases, winter temperatures could increase by an average high of 4.5 degrees Fahrenheit by 2050, while summer temperatures could increase as much as 6.3 degrees. By 2080, winter high temperatures are expected to soar by as much as 7.4 degrees on average, with summer highs jumping by a sweltering ten-degree average.
Northwest climate scientists believe that the “worst-case” scenario model can be avoided, but even the most conservative estimates predict a sea change in Oregon’s climate over the next century, according to researchers at the Oregon Climate Change Research Institute (OCCRI). Under the “low emissions model,” which assumes that the world will find a way to cap and ultimately reduce its greenhouse gas pollution, Oregon’s average winter high temps would increase by more than three degrees by 2050. By 2080, that jumps to four degrees warmer than today’s average winter highs. Compare that to the last one hundred years, when Oregon’s average temperatures increased an average of roughly two degrees.
“When I started working on the subject twenty years ago, climate change was about what would happen in the future, and now we’re surrounded by evidence of climate change,” said Phillip Mote, OCCRI director and a climate research at Oregon State University.
Mote’s team at OCCRI is charged with quantifying and localizing climate change research specific to Oregon. A multitude of state and federal agencies, including the Bureau of Reclamation and the Portland Water Bureau to name just a few, rely on its research to inform their operations. The publicly funded institute releases a semi-annual report to the Oregon legislature, which spells out some of the observed impacts of climate change in Oregon. The most recent report was released in 2017 and contains some dire predictions. For snow lovers and farmers and others who rely on water, the report is particularly concerning.
According to Mote’s research team, Oregon’s snow levels are expected to rise, and most of the state’s high country is expected to move from a rain-snow mixture in winter to a predominantly rain dominated weather pattern in winter. By 2080, all of Oregon, save parts of the Blue Mountains, are projected to become rain dominant. That’s right, most of Oregon won’t see snow—at all—in another sixty years. In the meantime, the frequency of warm winters is expected to increase as part of a pattern of increased variability and propensity for more extreme weather, the report found.
While there is no guarantee that we will see another warm winter next year—or even the following year—the current drought offers a window onto some of the economic impacts and the reality of living with a winter that barely musters a whimper.
At Elk Lake Resort, owner Wendy Prieve said her business, which caters to snowmobilers and cross-country skiers, is down almost 35 percent from last year. The resort is booked full to its projected close on April 1, but Prieve is concerned that some of those guests will cancel their reservations if the warm weather trend continues. As of early February, there was only a five-to-six-inch base around the resort. The resort has largely idled its sno-cat transport that picks up guests at a locked gate near Mt. Bachelor, because there isn’t enough snow to make the journey. Snowmobile trails that access the resort are worn almost to dirt.
“Snowpack is so poor and non-existent that the local snowmobile clubs have stopped grooming,” Prieve said.
Prieve and her husband Dave, who purchased the resort in 2013, are weathering their second drought in four seasons. While closing for the winter is an option, it’s not their preference. The winter season allows them to keep key staff on payroll and provide a needed service to guests. Prieve isn’t holding out a ton of hope that Mother Nature will rescue them this year. She is already talking to the Forest Service about opening the locked gates on Century Drive early, which would allow guests to drive directly to the resort, something that hasn’t happened ever before. If the warm weather continues they might just start renting paddleboards, said a half-joking Prieve.
Nearby at Mt. Bachelor, the conversation rarely turns from weather—good, bad or otherwise. As Oregon’s highest ski resort and one that attracts frequents storms, Bachelor is somewhat insulated from the impacts of climate change and drought. This year, the resort opened prior to Thanksgiving and has only suspended operations due to winds and ice removal. Compare that situation to lower elevation resorts such as Willamette Pass, which had yet to transport a single skier on its lifts as of mid-February. In Southern Oregon, Mt. Ashland also didn’t open this year. It was the same situation at Warner Canyon, a one-lift ski community owned resort that services Lakeview and surrounding areas.
Though Mt. Bachelor is clearly in better shape than most, the year hasn’t been without its challenges, said Mt. Bachelor President and General Manager John McLeod. “We are down from last year and where we would have hoped to be this year, but we are not down as far as we could be,” McLeod said in January.
While weather will always be the biggest variable in its operations, Mt. Bachelor has already taken steps to hedge against warming winters. In 2016, Mt. Bachelor’s parent company, Salt Lake City-based Powdr Corp., acquired Sun Country guiding and rafting service in Bend. The resort has also added summer chairlift rides and high elevation dining at its mid-mountain lodge restaurant. It has also constructed a disc golf course and invested heavily in a downhill mountain bike course.
“We are in the business of adapting to what Mother Nature serves up, and that’s always been true. If there’s an increase in variability, we have to increase the rate at which we adapt our operations.” McLeod said.
For Central Oregon powderhounds, that may mean waiting longer for snow to arrive, traveling farther to get to it and coming up with more four-letter words for rain.
If anyone walks the walk, it’s Kim Brannock. She’s a freelance outdoor apparel designer in Bend that spends as much time outside as she does in her busy design studio. And she’s on mission to save the Deschutes River.
Photo by Sarah Grigg
Kim Brannock calls herself a designer of anything. “Give me something and I just problem-solve a solution,” said Brannock, 47, who spent ten years working for Portland-based Columbia Sportswear. For the past eleven years she has run her own outdoor apparel design studio, SY Design, which is sought-after by some of the biggest brands in the outdoor industry, including Filson, Simms, Nike, Columbia Sportswear and Patagonia (yes, she’s fly-fished with Yvon Chouinard and yes, you should read the account of that day on her website). She sat down with Bend Magazine to talk about designing for sustainability, Bend’s outdoor economy and more.
What are some of the challenges SY Design faces in Bend?
When I lived in Portland, there was a lot of up-and-coming young talent that I was working with all the time. That’s not as easy to find here. There are a lot of product brands, but not much in the soft goods arena. The bulk of what I do is technical, things that are seam-sealed or driven by function. There aren’t a ton of people who do that and do that well. It’s become a niche for me. Also, being a female who spends a ton of time outside, I’m a user, and I bring that to the design work I do, which is a rare combination.
Being a designer and user of this gear and apparel is interesting.
I work largely in outdoor, workwear, hunting, fishing, snowboarding and skiing. It’s interesting that a lot of these brands are located in major cities. They’re in an office in a place where it’s not that easy to get outside. When I lived in Portland, I thought I was a real user. That changed dramatically when I moved here. The accessibility is so good that I can get up in the morning and go on a backcountry tour, come back down and design all day and go back out in the afternoon and paddle or fish on the river—all while I’m working.
Has that lifestyle changed how you approach your designs?
Yeah, and I think that working with Patagonia has changed some of it, too, because I’m very environmentally conscious, and I’m fascinated now with designing things purposefully to make them not fail. I used to want to use every new technology in my designs. I didn’t even think about if it was durable. Now, I think about that a lot, from how you place seams in garments to what types of material you choose. As designers, we have this big impact at the product level to make these choices that can impact change. When companies are building, five, ten or twenty thousand pieces of something you designed, that’s a big environmental toll.
Do you think outdoor products and companies in Bend are being conscious of their environmental impacts?
Yes, I think it’s really exciting right now. Many smaller brands aren’t in business to become billion dollar brands. They have a reason that they started and usually have some meaning behind it. The biggest challenge is that some of that is superficial right now. It’s popular right now to be a brand and have this social or environmental story but not understand the depth of what that means. Everyone wants to say they’re doing something great, but the next step is for people to research their story and what that actually means to act on it. It’s one thing to say it, but it’s another to be authentic and transparent about it.
You have a river conservation project. How did the Coalition for the Deschutes begin?
I ended up rescuing fish on the upper Deschutes the first year I moved here. There were thousands of fish that died, and through that, I felt compelled to do something more. I discovered that there was a big problem that nobody wanted to tackle, but meanwhile the river is in a rapid decline. Most people don’t know that. It looks beautiful on the surface, but below, it’s extremely unhealthy. There’s a lot going on in the outdoor industry right now with creatives using their skills to do grassroots advocacy work. It’s rewarding to use my creative skills toward something meaningful, has a lot of depth to it and also supports the place where I live and the soil I’m connected to. But grassroots advocacy is hard, hard work.
Savoring six local breakfast desserts from Bend’s growing bakery scene.
There may be no sweeter wake-up ritual than that of indulging in a morning pastry. Still floating somewhere between the dream world and the to-do list, one’s senses awaken when entering a bakery. The rich aroma of sweet breads mingling with coffee comforts the soul. Catching sight of a case full of palm-sized treats brightens the eyes and kindles salivation. Bend’s bakery scene is growing along with the number of alarm clocks that keep its burgeoning population humming. Classics such as Sparrow, Nancy P’s and the Village Baker are still impeccable. Newcomers such as Too Sweet Cakes, Foxtail, La Magie and Thump Baking sweeten the pot. So, take a day off from your 6 a.m. run—or come afterward if you must—and revel in the delight of a pillowy morning treat. We think you’ve earned it.
Marionberry Turnover | La Magie
In Oregon, a blackberry is not just a blackberry. Our state grows up to 33 million pounds per year of marionberries, a type of the beloved dark fruit that was bred at Oregon State University. La Magie, which has locations in downtown Bend and Sisters, celebrates the marionberry by tucking it neatly into a triangle of laminated dough. An egg wash creates a crunchy casing—just the right vehicle for transporting the sweet and slightly tart compote of local antioxidants into your grateful pie hole.
Owner Di Long said that all of La Magie’s marionberry-infused goodies are popular with Oregonians. Visitors often don’t recognize the berry, she said, but end up leaving with a box to take home as edible souvenirs.
Lemon Tart | Foxtail Bakeshop
Lemon bars are well and good. A flawless lemon tart, though? That is the stuff of poetry. Sure, it may be known as a dessert more than a breakfast food, but we say, live on the wild side. At Foxtail Bakeshop, owner and pastry chef Nickol Hayden-Cady makes the curd for her lemon tart with fresh lemon juice and zest, egg yolks, vanilla beans and butter. A smooth texture lets the crisp, natural flavors speak. The pâte sucrée tart crust is “rolled quite thinly so you’re not having to struggle with the fork,” said Hayden-Cady, and the result is decidedly struggle free. A cloud of savory whipped vanilla bean mascarpone cream with thyme infusion sits atop the masterpiece.
The Box Factory in Bend got a lot sweeter this month when Foxtail moved to the business hub from its Columbia Street matchbox. The airy new location allowed Hayden-Cady to add a café and dessert bar. With space comes a broader selection of breakfast baked goods, locally roasted coffee, craft cocktails, tapas and desserts—all of which are appropriate to order in the morning hours.
Gluten-Free Lemon Blueberry Poppy Seed Muffin | Too Sweet Cakes
Bend native Shelbi Blok, 23, is the youngest bakery owner in Central Oregon, but her achievements belie her age. Already, her Too Sweet Cakes baked goods are carried in eleven shops around town (from Backporch Coffee Roasters to Spoken Moto), and she opened her first storefront, complete with dessert bar, in March. Blok started baking at age 7, then followed her dream of attending Portland’s Le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary Arts after high school. We’d sure like to get her secret recipe for passion, raw talent and success.
Wedding cakes are Blok’s specialty, but her gluten-free lemon blueberry poppy seed muffin is a dream whether you have celiac disease or just love a good treat. The muffin has a straightforward flavor profile with the nuttiness of the poppy seed and an ever-so-slightly-zippy lemon current running through each bite. Applesauce and tofu lend a moist lightness to the cohesive treat.
At Too Sweet Cakes’ first storefront on Cleveland Avenue in SE Bend, find dessert flights with wine from noon until close. “Flights and all the things I do are reminiscent of my growing up and of being in culinary school,” said Blok. “I like flavors that remind me of my journey, of being a kiddo.” We think nostalgia pairs nicely with sugar, too.
Ocean Roll | Sparrow Bakery
Whitney Keatman, who co-owns Sparrow Bakery with her wife and fellow pastry chef Jessica Keatman, knew that every successful French bakery needed a distinctive cornerstone pastry. Turning to her Finnish roots, Keatman landed on cardamom, a Scandinavian spice, to lend a special quality to the bakery’s croissant recipe. At that moment in 2006, the foodie movement was still germinating, and cardamom was not yet a word or a flavor on American’s tongues. But the real, laborious secret to the Ocean Roll is the hand folding of the dough. If you’re a pastry neophyte, all you need to know is that this method is virtually unheard of in commercial baking. The result is a bit more dense than flaky, and memorably delicious.
Keatman politely evaded a question about what’s next for Sparrow Bakery, only alluding to “stuff in the works” which she hopes to reveal within the next year. “My partner and I are young. We plan to do this for twenty-five, thirty more years, so we’ve always got stuff in the works,” said Keatman. “To stay relevant in business, you’ve got to keep it vibrant.” Acknowledging the growing competition for sweet tooth business in town, she added, “Our response to that is to really focus in on ourselves, on the basics, and to make sure that the product we are putting out is the best it can possibly be, if not the best it has ever been.”
Almond Croissant | Nancy P’s Café and Bakery
Known for its buttery, scratch-made scones and an entire case of gluten-free options, Nancy P’s Café & Bakery has been a neighborhood mainstay on the west side for seventeen years. High ceilings and walls of windows provide the ideal lighting for sitting down with the Sunday paper. Among Nancy P’s many savory and sweet goodies sits the unassuming almond croissant, and it’s worth branching out of your scone-ordering habit to savor its flavor. Chef Tommy Clabough starts with a buttery, flaky dough and fills it with small-batch almond paste. Baked to perfection, the pastry is lightly glazed and sprinkled with delicate almond slices and powdered sugar. Plus, almonds are said to boost brain power and memory.
Big Eddy | Village Baker
It started out as a Christmas dessert that served ten. Fortunately, the Village Baker owners long ago realized that we are all kids at heart who want the twinkle of Christmas morning available on a daily basis. The “personal”-sized version is best shared with a sweetie though, as its diameter is about the size of a hand. The beloved Eddy came to be when co-owners, bakers and spouses Lauren and Bill Kurzman—who opened the bakery in 1996—wanted to create a pastry take on a flourless chocolate cake. It sounds counterintuitive, but isn’t that how ingenuity sparks? Cream cheese and dark chocolate swirl together in harmony while the pastry dough forms a pie-like cradle for the rich decadence. “Always use cold ingredients,” mused Kurzman when prodded to reveal her pastry secrets. “And take our pie dough class.”
Fashion veteran Summer Robbins carved a niche in Central Oregon’s flourishing wedding and event market.
Summer Robbins’ florist studio is an oasis in the high desert, nestled at the end of a long, dirt road, surrounded by juniper and open space. Like most of Robbins’ Central Oregon life, that’s by design.
She was previously a menswear fashion designer in New York. “But I had a dream of getting out of fashion,” she said. Robbins and her husband also dreamt of living somewhere smaller and spending more time outside. She accomplished both in one fell swoop, moving to Bend in July 2015 and launching her floral business at the same time.
She’s since grown Summer Robbins Flowers into a flourishing business, recognized as a preferred vendor by many of the region’s top venues and deemed “Best Florist Outside of Portland” last year by Oregon Bride magazine.
Planting A New Career
Robbins attended Parsons School of Design and spent the next thirteen years as a menswear designer and personal stylist in New York City. She lived in New Jersey and was spending twelve hours a day out of the house and away from her family.
At the same time, she was losing her passion for fashion. Robbins found herself imagining other creative careers, from interior design to event planning. Then she took a flower designing class. “I’d always been inspired by flowers and their color palette,” she said. “I had this warm feeling when I’d work with flowers, and I knew it was the right thing.”
At 38, Robbins quit her job to go to flower design school for a year and apprenticed with some of New York’s best florists. “I was learning how to do this new thing, and everyone else was twenty years younger than me,” she said. “But it was really fun and inspiring to do something new.”
Growing A Business
As Robbins contemplated how to transform her new skills into a career, she and her husband also considered leaving the city. Robbins had grown up in many places, including Virginia, where she had loved the fresh air and playing outside. She and her husband were avid rock climbers, and her husband loves to mountain bike and ski.
“We always talked about moving somewhere where we could live off the land, live a little more sustainably, and have fresh air and water,” she said. “We really wanted to do that for our kids.”
They visited Bend for the first time in spring 2015 and fell in love with the town. She’d planned to open a florist shop, but quickly realized during her visit that it likely wouldn’t be a sustainable business.
Not for long, though. Robbins holed up in the AirBnB while her husband explored the local mountain bike trails, researching the Central Oregon wedding business. She discovered that there were some talented florists already here, a sign that the market was there for even more artistic floral design. And the idea of helping couples design their weddings filled her up. “I really love people and hearing their stories. I fall in love with them,” she said.
By the time her husband returned, she had a plan for a studio and a wedding flower business. She launched her website a few weeks later and booked her first-ever wedding for the weekend she and her family moved to town.
A Flourishing Future
Today, Robbins receives floral deliveries from Portland every Tuesday at her studio on Bend’s east side and forages on their twenty-acre property for additional materials. She employs four people and recently established a project minimum that allows her to spend more time with each client and her family. She also planted peonies this winter in hopes that they’ll thrive in the high desert—much like Robbins has.
